QTDDTOT: Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

Skull Blower Edition.

>Sticker question?
>Auto Vidya question?
>Classic Car question?
>Honda question?
>Hot Hatch question?
>BMW question?
>Australian Car question?
>Motorcycle question?
>Off-Road/Truck question?
>Commercial Truck question?
>Used Car question?
Read the sticky first.

Old Thread:

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Usually the read out will give a lead as to what needs to be fixed.

Most of the time it will be exhaust or oxygen sensor related.

How long is fine to leave a car on jack stands? I will probably need a few days to a week to get everything fixed. Is that okay?

what is the point of part 4

Should I buy a $200 dollar car and fix it up?
I already have a DD
I have zero mechanical knowledge btw

only if you have friends to help

That's the best way to learn to wrench. Depends on faults it has, though, if you actually can. And do you have the space to do so?

I have friends but they're pretty unreliable
So far only thing wrong is the ignition switch is broken, it hasn't run in a year so not sure if it actually has any other issues other than that.
I would just move it in my garage with my DD outside.

how does one find local cart tracks?

I park on an inclined driveway, but I want to upgrade my suspension. The coilovers I'm looking at (Tien FlexZ) lower the car by 1.4 inches in the front and 1.6 inches in the rear. Do you guys think I will scrape when pulling into the driveway? I would really rather upgrade the shocks without lowering the car, but the FlexZs sound fantastic for daily driving with occasional autocross. The car is an IS300

fuck tiens
what company even gives specs on how much a coilover will lower a car? they have fucking preload collars

seriously tiens are garbage
look at KW

Balancing the air.

Truck fails smog
Where do you start if no CEL light?

Stupid question.
But do professional detailers do anything that I wouldn't be able to do on my own?
Do they have any special products, tools or anything?
Or is it simply just paying for the convenience of not doing it myself

look at the readout? what made it fail

>tools

Most likely more expensive tools, that actually have mechanical advantages. But it's not like you can't get them, too. They're just not $25 walmart shit.

>Or is it simply just paying for the convenience of not doing it myself

It's generally this. But not necessarily, since it ain't THAT easy to do well. But, on the other hand, it's not easy to find a detailer that does it well.

Do you have an OBDII scanner?

Mine had no CEL but it was because I did not complete enough drive cycles for them to come up.

What are these stripes of cloth hanging from the grilles of front bumpers of some tuned cars?

Handkerchief code bro

i thought those were tow points

Tow hook. Location or extension, whichever you want.

Can I break something by trying handbrake skids on a cheap econobox (snap the cable, etc.)? Or is it relatively safe?

Practically forever.

Some shops will remove most everything in the interior and pull the carpet to clean from under it.

So if you're willing to go to that trouble then yes you could do it.

Yes depending on where you're doing it and how bad of shape the car is in.

Link from last thread. Trying to build up a Cutlass Supreme to improve handling, power, and fuel economy.

what would happen if i wanted to drive my car with the stock computer, and i upgraded the turbo? and probably the intercooler. a tune costs a lot of money. and i want to see what would happen to my power levels with a bigger turbo.

going from 13 to 16g
because i hate the 13g exhaust turbine

It's in a good condition, but the rear brakes are drum brakes, that's why I'm concerned. Is it alright?

I want to pay someone to do an engine swap. its an old chevy truck, and an built chevy engine. How much would a shop charge on average for that work.

It'll be fine, I'd be more concerned sliding into a curb or something.

It probably won't run, and if it does it'll run like shit.


A thousand or more.

you'd need a piggyback ecu or a standalone ecu.

it wont even run? how so?

Your MAF will be throwing codes like a girl yelling rape coming back from a frat party

What is the most forgiving car to learn manual on?

ford ranger with the v6
the clutch pedal take up is HUGE
so so forgiving.

Something with alot of power/torque but can't go fast.

IE a truck with a V8

You don't want the most forgiving car, whatever's cheapest. I learned on an NA Miata, which happens to be forgiving, but it really doesn't matter.

Two things,
What is a "60mm turbo" typically referring to? The wheel? the intake size?

and

If a car has a 2JZ-GTE Block/bottom end, but a different head, can you just buy the head from a GTE and valve cover etc and switch it over? Or are there more things to swap?

Any diesel

I've only ever driven econoboxes.

What does it mean to have 'sporty' suspension? What's driving a sports car like?

it means when you take a turn, your car doesn't roll as much and help stick the car to the ground on turns.

But because the suspension is much stiffer, if you hit a bump in the road, it will jolt you a lot harder inside the car.

econoboxes can have sporty suspension
i would describe it as having a very controlled motion

bamp

What has happened to non-Veeky Forums car forums?

I was a member of several about 5 or 6 years ago while I had a car build on the go, and afterward for a a year or so, and now I've been looking for a new forum to join but they all seem to be ded.

>what has happened to car forums, including Veeky Forums
ftfy

At least this place still has a reasonable population.

Post on any of the main boards and it really makes you question that

At least the one upside of that is that it's easier for new threads to start

My coolant gauge bounces around when I take my foot off the throttle. And sometimes (rarely) when im just driving.

Fluid is topped up etc

Diesel btw, but I don't see how it would be related to the injector pump

You can see it more in the first video, but the second video its more obvious when I'm shifting etc

youtu.be/xHYfvhPRunE
youtu.be/uLxfGM9uxJ8

Looking for a cheap car I can let my brother beat the Hell out of, have fun with and maybe have him learn a bit by doing pcms and maybe a mod or something, I came back looking at 2005ish crown vics.

Most of the ones I see are 125k-150k miles, but I'm guessing they're designed to run until there's no more oil left in the earth. The most I've seen one go for is an 06 for 2225$. That's pretty good for my area, everyone wants to sell rusty 80s stangs for like 7 grand.

Opinions/advice?

It will run but you will have to run much lower boost or else it will run lean.
Also it will run like shit till it is tuned.
You can get the equipment to burn your own chips pretty cheap though you need the expertise to program first.

Clean up the coolant temp gauge/replace it.
Crown Vic should be fine, that or a Civic. (Or a Miata if you're comfortable with that)

My first thought was a Honda, but looking online and driving around I'd go like 55 miles out to find one worthwhile accord from a guy who put an ad online, not worth the trip imo. Crown vic I'm eyeing is in town and I'm guessing the junkyard is probably full of wrecked interceptors, unless those get taken somewhere special.

I might take the plunge, for 2 grand it's whatever. Crazy high mileage always makes me a little wary though, but I don't expect anything else.

I suppose that's true. I come from Veeky Forums and Veeky Forums so Veeky Forums is actually the fastest moving board I frequent.

How do I get ride of water spots on my car?

I've done a basic wash (rinse, foam gun, 2 bucket scrub, foam gun, and rinse then dry).

Every time the same water spots come back.

How far do I have to go, Clay bar?

How would one go about securing ownership of an abandoned vehicle that's been sitting in a vacant lot for months or years?

just take it.

Would it be illegal to turn random handles into electric shock devices?

Say I was to turn the electric shock handles on if an officer decided he was going to search my vehicle.. Would it be considered a weapon?

I was thinking
>Glovebox push button
>Console unlatch button
>Trunk pull lever

If it doesn't prove to be too hard
>Exterior door handles

Current wouldn't be fatal. It'd be about the strength of an electric lighter, pen, or slot machine gag.

>the same water spots come back
Are you saying the same exact spots reappear?

>Don't wash under the sun
>If you have hard water do a better job drying

You could also use a quick detailer.

That sounds like stealing user.

when im at a red light/have the brake pedal pressed down for an extended period of time, sometimes I hear the engine rev/accel and the brake pedal depresses down even more for a split second then stops. is there air in the lines?

You might have a slight vacuum leak.

No, user it's commandeering. Temporarily requisitioning if you prefer.

Master cylinder leak.

If I want an engine that will see mostly highway cruising but can put out a lot of power on demand, is a BBC the way to go? I've always wanted a big block V8, but I'm worried that highway driving will become prohibitive with one due to fuel usage.

if you want to get into this shit thats exactly what you do

duck tape some 2 inch pieces of something to low points and see if they scrape.. get all scientifified on that shit

>BBC

thats just your temp sensor or gauge , or the circuit these are on. check the obvious electrical connections connections, then I would clean and maybe replace sensor (fairly cheap).

complete gauge/ sensor units (also cheap) available at any parts store... just have to make sure the sensor will fit where yours is

Just came back to move my car, it's been sitting over the summer but I started it and let it run a while every week. It started up fine, shifted to reverse and started clutching out. Car dies completely, key in no sounds, no lights, key fob won't trigger locks. Tried jumping, same thing, fuses are okay.

How fucked am I?

nope
thats your brake servo working normally. when the engine rev's it creates more vacuum. brake servo (vacuum servo/ brake booster, whatever) uses this vacuum to assist braking pressure, so the same force from your foot has more help when the engine revs. why your engine revs is another , more complicated issue.
don't throw energy/ money into your probably fine brakes

Check the fuses again, also try swapping batteries a stone dead totally failed battery can prevent jumping.

You in theory could have a shot alternator and instead of charging the battery while it ran you instead drained it down.

After that you need to chase connections, verify that you have power to the modules, so you'll need a wiring diagram and a multi-meter.

See if you can find a TRD Sportivo suspension set, they're discontinued but supposed to be the best you can get if you find them. It only lowers the car by about an inch.

How do you like the IS300? I have a sudden boner for them but I want to know if they're actually good.

don't know yet... first step is see if problem goes away with charged battery.. check main connections, get a charge on it with charger or cables to another vehicle, then get free alt/ batt test at any auto store... go from there

yeah, or swap batt. even better

i was in that original thread.


what happened to it? did he ever install it and post pics?

About to pull the trigger, go for it?

Its for a 2003 Tacoma PreRunner.
Should give it a 2" lift all around.
Current Original factory suspension is shot and useless. Deathwobbles if bed is loaded since rear leafs are flat

Thanks, I'll start from there.

Geo Metro. That shit never broke down.

When my engine RPMs drop, especially close to or below 1k, the a/c tends to stutter and might blow warm for a second or two. The only time this really happens is when I'm braking towards a stop, as the engine slows down the fan speed might drop off completely once or twice and it'll blow obviously warmer air. Is this normal or is there something wrong with the compressor?

It's an automatic Saturn Ion if that helps

All memes aside how do I drift in an automatic?

I've done it on grass and wet pavement before but I'm not sure how to on regular asphalt

Unless you have loads of torque, power, or no fear/will to live, you can't.

Steer as hard as you can, and floor it at the same time. If you don't break traction then, you can't at all.

Learn to drive stick so you can clutch kick

What are those darker grey lines on the roads? For sealing the cracks I suppose?

What is the whitest car one can buy?

yes

bitumen to seal the cracks. Water under the road can do massive damage in the winter

haw

No thats not normal, do you have a loose belt? Does it squeal?

How reliable are the late 90's Volvo 960/980/S90 and Mercedes C-class with V6 engines?
I'm thinking about getting a really cheap one (~1k€) to have something to work on and maybe to hoon now and then. Are they nice even with high mileage or will they break down regularly? Wouldn't have to last long, maybe a year or two, so rust wouldn't be a problem I guess. Also I want to go n/a because the turbos are probably already fubar as people around here don't know how to drive a turbocharged engine.

where to buy?

Depends on the car. A really sporty a/t car will allow you to drift when you lose traction with the e-brake or weight transfer etc. Those made for comfort probably won't allow it. My Merc ML has probably enough power/torque (258hp/620NM) to drift but unless I'm on snow the car sits like a rock. But that's probably also due to the soft suspension.

To add to this if you don't have a lsd then it's Likely you won't be able to drift either

I haven't heard any squealing

Thank you for the answer.

Corvette or Mustang

good idea, but you know it's "duct tape" right?

>duct tape

>Lemon Scented Duck Tape

thats fucking mint

We don't have shit like this [spoiler]down under[/spoiler]

oh shit no spoilers here I forgot

Alright question time

How reliable are second hand turbochargers in general?

There are a few turbos in some cars at the local wreckers and I've been contemplating pullling it all out and either trying to get it to work on my shitbox 180sx or selling them

Just got a new job which means I have to commute for almost 3 hours/day, I'm looking for a fun quick car that is also slightly economical but not overly so. The road is good so I'm mostly looking for straight line speed