In here we talk, post pics, and generally bs about classic cars. What is a classic car? Anything that is 25 years old or older.
Am I the only one in here that wouldn't mind DDing a car from the 30's? Albeit something that would be higher end so as to be able to do interstate speeds with no problem.
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I wouldn't mind a resto-modded 1930's car. They look cool but you really wouldn't want to drive a 1930's car in modern traffic.
a model t with an ecotech?
I've driven a now 50 year old Land Rover for years, no problem. Just about anything from the 30's with a large I6, 8 or 12 cylinder is going to have more power, be faster, and more comfortable. A Packard I8 can do almost 100mph.
I'm not talking a model A, although I've driven one of them and there's no problem with a Model A around town. I want something big and comfy like a Lincoln, Packard, Cadillac, Pierce Arrow, ect.
>question
Found a guy who does custom motorcycle pinstriping and he said he could probably do some on my truck for 200. Should I? And if so, should I just do black or what?
This is where a gear vendors over drive unit is good. Keep the stock tranny but now you get comfortable highway rpms.
And then if your going to do a show, you can swap it out since it's just a bolt in unit between the trans and rear axle. Though I think Pebble Beach and Amelia Island would be the only shows that would care. I imagine they are a bit expensive though, since they are probably make to order. No mass production.
they run around 2 to 3 grand per unit and torque capacity.
the only problem with your plan is that you would have to remove the wiring and electronic controls every time you uninstalled the unit, as well as buy a separate drive shaft for the unit. that's a pain in the ass.
also read this
365daysofa.com
Yeah do it cunt. A thick black or blue-green line under the body line (the thick section between the top and bottom of the body and tray) would look great. 200's a great price if he does a fucking killer job, but make sure you know what you're getting before you do it.
yeah I figure I will talk to the guy first. dude was good to talk to on the phone and he's been doing it for years. cool job too.
facecuck /wildbillspinstriping/?hc_ref=SEARCH
I have seen that blog several times. It is pretty cool.
As for the overdrive idea, if I bought one 99% of the time I'd leave it in. Only would be removed if I'd take the car to a show like Pebble Beach. And for a show like that the work is worth it. Mind you, at this point it's all hypothetical. But I do dream of taking a car I've restored myself to Pebble Beach some day.
Dude I feel that. You would need to find a way to somehow discreetly fill in the hole in the floorboards/transmission tunnel or find a way to run it through the hole that shifter is in. It could work, or you could look for a period over/under drive unit.
There is always a 3rd option of just not getting one. Most higher end cars of that time can do interstate speeds no problem. Hell I knew a guy that got pulled over here in NJ once doing 95mph in his restored mid-30's Pierce Arrow. Cop didn't give him a ticket since he though that nobody would believe him that a 30's car was going that fast.
This is true. If you stick to 50-55 mph you'll be fine in something that old. Just once you maintain high sustained rpms for a long period of time you run into issues, but I'm sure you know that.
Have you begun budgeting out what a project like this would look like?
Nah, haven't even though about the budget yet. I have too many other projects at the moment, going to be putting my '73 Land Rover for sale this week now that it's done. Then I have my '87 Alfa spider and '87 Jaguar XJ-6 to fix and sell.
I know I can find something like a '31 Packard with the I8 for not too much money, but depending on what condition it's in restoration could be not bad or very expensive.
>not bad
I doubt it
>Very expensive
Take an imaginary number, then double it.
It might behoove you to join a Packard car club when you get close to buying one. They can give you the know how of every nut and bolt of those cars.
When Dick Tracy gets into a car chase, people die.
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>Classic car thread
>Posts a new Morgan
Any car club is good for that. Although not a formal club, I am part of a small Land Rover group here in NJ. I've learned some stuff from them and they have from me.
I'm just using Packard as an example, what I get could be anything. Lincoln, Marmon, Peerless, Pierce Arrow, Cadillac, Rolls-Royce, whatever. I'll get whatever I can afford.
>pierce arrow
>pierless
now that would be a pricey fucking restoration I tell you wut
>go to get oil pressure before first startup
>nothing after a good 20 seconds of cranking
>check dipstick
>milky oil, way above the full mark
>Drain everything and check intake and head gaskets
>all gaskets look brand new although there is water in cyl #8
Just send the heads to be cleaned and inspected. Hold me Veeky Forums, I'm losing my mind over what this could be.
How's your guys' projects coming?
I'm a car guy and even I can't tell the difference between a new Morgan and a 40 years old Morgan on first sight. And that doesn't make it worse, it only makes it better.
>2900 for a duster w/225 slant six
yay or nay?
not linking ad to avoid snipes.
it's a mixture of tires, wheels, indicator and photography. I had a friend when I lived in cali who was a diehard moggie enthusiast, he had like 6, including a brand new trike.
post the link fagget, no one is going to steal your mopar on a tibetan basket weaving forum
also that panel fitment is way too good for that to be a classic morgan.
>post the link fagget, no one is going to steal your mopar on a tibetan basket weaving forum
:(
philadelphia.craigslist.org
pls dont steel
body panels are a little fucky and the floorboards don't look good. if you can get him lower than 2.5 I would do it.
Quaint little wagon
Floor pans are so available for Chrysler A and B bodies it's not even a bother but my concern is where the vinyl roof meets the body, looks like it's about to crumble into dust.
Anyway i only have like $1200 saved atm so i need to talk to him anyway.
>$1200 saved atm
I would save up more money before purchasing bruv. these cars get expensive to keep up with all the time. it's nothing big, but little things pop up all the time.
What i want to do is get it bought so i can actually just have it and start replacing shit over the winter, such as suspensions, bearings, etc.
Eventually buy a crate engine (mopar prices lol) and keep the slant for a spare when i inevitably melt the V8.
that's my plan with the eff tu fiddy. the thing is, all the stuff costs money.
>swap to disk break front I beams- 300 after rebuild
>junkyard engine build- 900 minimum
>new trans and driveshaft- 400 minimum
that shit adds up. especially if you buy a crate motor god forbid. that shit is super expensive.
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>tfw not Jay Leno and can't afford shit
Tru. I think I'm probably going to just grab a 302 out of an explorer, cam it and swap to carb and msd ignition.
I might do higher comp 10:1 pistons but I don't know if I want to crack the block open and do all that work.
To be honest, any restoration on a car like that, even a Packard, is going to he pricey. Unless you can do everything yourself.
I feel some dark colored pin stripes on the wheel arches around the tires would make those lines stick out more
I always hated that about that gen body style it feels like the body isn't T H I C C enough the way made the fenders
I thought about a body line, and then a little bit on the tail gate and on the hood by the emblem. Nothing big.
How big of a project do you think you'll do
Yea just my personal opinion I'm just talking about a thin black line to make the front fender and the rear quater to make those bulges pop more
But you need to get some new paint too nigga make the bitch shine with those new pin stripes
I'd like to find something with a solid body at least. Repainting, mechanical rebuild, upholstery, doesn't really matter too much. I can take care of that in one way or another. But rust repair is the worst, I will if I have to though.
I'll buff the paint out but it's not getting a new paint job for a long time
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>car runs 9.9x's all day on 1/8th mile
>4 passes in an hour
>9.94, 9.95, 9.94, 9.96
>first round
>dial in 9.95
>runs 9.78
>next round dial 9.81 thinking since its cooled down enough to run .78, it'll run a bit slower now
>runs 9.95
I made the mistake of trying to play him at the top end, let off the gas for too long, probably shouldn't have let off at all. He was way off his dial in too, I think I would've won if I didn't fuck around, playing the top end game is a lot easier when I'm the one chasing the other guy down
Its pretty consistent in the hundredths of a second department now I think, it used to run anywhere between 10.2 and 10.6 and each run it would just fucking pick a number far from my dial-in either which way.
A cross country trip in a 30's luxury car sounds like something unique, interesting, incredibly fun. and one of those things that you will remember and enjoy for the rest of our life.
yes you would, pussy
>i love my fedora so much i want my car to match
Which one? I'd take middle
Honestly, would just pass.
tfw lining up a time to buy a 70 opel GT for $2700, going to go down the next day, and he sold it. I am very upset
people are scum desu
anyway guys what's a Mopar vehicle usually priced about $2000 or so that can support big block hemis?
Is Dart the only answer?
Dart can't support a hemi with immense fabrication. Look for beat up c-bodies like a300 or a fury or any other huge Mopar.
But the A bodies came with 426's
While this is true, those were factory modified street stock cars from the early 60s that had very little to do with the road car. You basically need to fabricate a new crossmember, widen the transmission tunnel and make room for headers which will be a cunt and a half.
You little shit i'm going to smack you across the face with my cock until your teeth fall out. I'm going to beat your pussy blue you little fuckboy.
>This cuck doesn't want a hemi powered fury iii
Kys lmao
nigga i said $2k or abouts.
>denver.craigslist.org
>no pictures
>i live in PA
>denver.craigslist.org
>still live in PA
not gunna lie i love Chryslerboats but it's out of my reach
H E M I
E
M
I
Wait why are you trying to hemi swap if you only have 2 grand.
Also remember boomers can't internet so they don't like posting pictures. That's how you nab a sweet deal
>Wait why are you trying to hemi swap if you only have 2 grand.
not yet 2bh
I've only managed to save $1200 right now because i've only been searching for about 3 weeks.
Neuhemi or elephant? But yeah find a c body.
i want a Hemiphant 2bh, new HEMI just doesn't have the soul
Hellcat tho. But yeah good luck man.
>denver.craigslist.org
danke holmes, i'll keep my eye on CL/Ebay for Fury 3s while saving more.
looks dope af
Edsel wagon, fug yeah
Finally got the seats fixed in the Series III, now time to put it out for sale.
Yeah but having to grease the chassis points every 100 miles, Mechanical brakes. Magnetos/Generators. Manual spark advance. etc,
They require much much more maintance
so smol,
also its sideways. cool.
>tfw there's a rat rod show this weekend and a cruise night next weekend and i have to work both
i kind of wanted to go to the rat rod show but parts wont be here till next week so c'est la vie
I saw you on facebook on a certain page senpai
You got mad upboats for your stang, good shit
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carsforsale.com
>front and rear 1/4s
>rockers
>all of the suspension
>not worried about interior yet
>engine rebuild maybe later
chassis looks in bad shape, how bad is it?
I want it 2bh
Bump
The frame is rotten. Don't even bother.
>tfw I finally got the carbs set perfectly and running like a dream and the clutch gives up the ghost
I just want to drive my Bolbo
Rip bruv.
I'm having the hardest fucking time trying to figure out what cam to get. For a roller 5.0 build
I've got a kit coming tomorrow and my neighbour has a hoist he's letting me use on the weekend, so hopefully this is that last major thing that it needs. The alternator light has starting going on and off intermittently, so that'll probably be the next thing, which isn't surprising since it's still on the original lol.
The ride never ends.
>carsforsale.com
most of the chassis rust looks like surface rust. you'll need new quarter panels at best, probably has some holes in the frame though, which would require good money to fix.
What can be done to fix rust holes on a frame besides throw money at it
new frame. weld new metal in. once rust like that has set in though you're in for a pretty penny.
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Bump
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Classix
It's probably a unibody though so it's likely completely fucked?
Maybe, you'd have to look but odds a are it's not doing so hot
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Picked up this bad boy in 2015 as a daily but fuck a 4 cylinder with no power steering or breaks.. Now the plan is to find an old small block Ford to drop in it... Been trying craigslist for a motor but can't find shit. Any recommendations on where to find a Ford 289 or a 70's 302?
try a local salvage yard. it might be a hit or miss thing desu but i can pick up any size motor here for 300 bucks.
I'm near a big city and all the yards here have newer cars that get stripped to shit within a day... I was looking for a foxbody but the oldest Ford they had was a SN-95 Mustang
>slight water damage
I'm surprised that Craigslist isn't working out for you. Hell, if I can find Ford flathead V8s no problem youdthink a newer engine would be easier to find.
Has anyone seen the new Engine Masters where they took a 305 and made 2 HP per cube with nitrous until they blew the motor?
horry shit
Welcome to the wonderful world of classic cars
No way in fuck. I don't have a problem with 4 doors but I'd imagine its still just as hard to find sheet metal for as a 2 door since its a Mopar.
Honestly not worth, sadly. And I love these too, that straight body line from the front bumper to the back, hnnng.
Someone kill Alphonse. please.
