[D a i l y - B i k e - T h r e a d] - /dbt/

vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/mcy/5729959176.html

How does this look? $2900 canadian dollarydoos is about 2200 USD. Is that a fair price? What benefits does a cbr 250 have over a ninja 250?

The 250 Honda adds to that ABS and is overall a more complete package.

let's add "riding a motorcycle on hydrocodone" to my list of "stupidest shit I've ever done"

blue w/ highlighter yellow. im so jelly, you are getting my dream baiku

1. $2500 I would only pay this for a really nice one that hasn't been ridden much

2. 90's+. after 2007 the bike changed style to look much better imo but some like the old style. I rarely see any under 2000s on my local CL

3. Yes, white looks better

You can get a SV650 for that much.......

Thoughts on CBR 250R vs ninja 250?

If some dead guy's family gave me his bikes but no paperwork can I just go to the DMV and ask for a title?

kind of looks like a penis

What would be the benefit of that over a ninja 250?

I don't really care about top speed or how fast I can accelerate, I just want a fun bike I can drive around. I don't even have any highways near me so I'll never be above 60kmh

yeah

>having all this money to spend
>I can't even get my handlebar fixd
I need to git gud and work harder user. I'm so jelly donuts.

>implying this is even a question
blue or die

Thought my battery was dead, but AutoZone tested it and said it's okay. Tested it with a dmm and it reads 12.65 volts so it should be alright...

But the bike won't start with it. Powers the lights but when I try to crank it, nothing happens and the battery goes dead, lights won't even come on.

Bike cranked right up when I had jumper cables to my car battery hooked up...

So what now? A short somewhere? How do I even go about figuring that shit out?

Sup nigs
Who Monday drinking here?

Sounds rad.

Thanks m8. I've been saving up a lot of money and I need something to boost my credit. I'm looking to put half down and paying off the rest in 2 years. I can't wait to see how it is. A little sad I'm selling the CRF but I need to make room for new baikus.

I work a lot of hours to afford what I have lad. Literally the only free time I have is on the weekends. Monday through friday consists of sleep and work. I'm so excited to give it a run when they drop.

Okay, I will order a blue.

Because when you do get into traffic, you'll appreciate being able to pass and stay out of the way of cars.

But if you feel that you won't need to go that fast then by all means pick up a 250.

Help me dbt. They said baikus would solve my problems, but I'm too unmotivated to ride.

go ride asshole, i wish i could ride right now but its raining hard. dont forget to do a wheelie

>Fairweather rider

They are getting up there in price. If you do get one, study all the engine number threads on Jockey Journal and study the AMCA forums because there are a lot of sketch Pans out there. Title passes with engine serial number on Pans. Frames are not numbered.

Looks like prices are a bit high in Denver. If you get Pan money don't go shopping hungry and take your time to find the most original (buy books, go to AMCA meets, be an info sponge) Pan you can score.

Pan cases and heads plus random junk isn't worth near as much.

OTOH if you actually want to ride the thing then go with a titled frame Shovel (1970 and later HD title passes with frame) and drop an S&S repop Pan engine into it. S&S have been around over fifty years and their engine is a lot better piece than a stock Pan.

Visit Jockey Journal and Chop Cult for useful Pan and other old HD info. If you want to build a slabside case/Pan top there are a variety of ways to go.

I don't know how to willy. It's also night time and I have a tinted visor
>excuses

Oh no, it's a special flower, you can taste it. Go on have a lick.

What kind of bike you have ?

man i dont eat plants

Not unless they have a will and those bikes were transferred to them by probate.

They need to go to DMV with an original copy of the death certificate and will or any other docs DMV specifies.

Title services exist but type of bike matters. Nobobdy posts make/model/year here because all bikes are identical, but that actually does affect title options.

drz400, you?

Gs500

Actually have the same bike

>got my plates today for my first baiku
>it got dark out
>cant ride no more
>depression kicks in

how do you do it

Why no night ride?

Oh no dont bite it user. Just lick it.

drz400

no dude thats gross

visor problems and i have work early tomorrow

plus learners permit but no 5-0 in my borough

i am honestly surprised how a 400cc can handle 80mph like that.

DMM resting voltage check is not a LOAD test. I'd replace the battery.

BTW never jump from a running car lest thy regulator try to regulate auto alternator and it die.

Obtain your own meter. You'll be glad you did.

batterystuff.com/blog/how-to-tell-if-your-battery-is-bad.html

Also now and forever post year/make/model because Veeky Forums posting customs are fucking stupid. You may find useful info that way.

Inspect both battery cables while you are at it. Check for corrosion and bad connections which an auto battery might be able to overcome.

Brand and model specific motorcycle forums are the way to go.

Only post here out of utter desperation after a thorough internet search.

the DRZ isn't exactly happy at 80mph

>Help me dbt. They said baikus would solve my problems, but I'm too unmotivated to ride.

Give baikus to motivated poor Anons, feel good about your generosity, then use happy motivation to change your entire life.

hey dbt I bought a bike! got a question for you guys. I can't ride it until next week though, still need to take a test and wait for my helmet to arrive. The chain seems to have some rust on it, and people have told me to warm the bike up before applying the chain lube on it (after cleaning). What should I do? Should I wait a week before cleaning or should I clean and apply lube asap without warming the chain up?

hope this makes sense. ty guys

Ya its good. Just put 48 tooth rear on though so now 80 is basically maxed out

>no dude thats gross

Just lick under the tip and tongue the hole in the end.

Only balls are gross. Just cup them gently and pretend you are servicing a superior Italian sportbike rider.

meh, i got a 41 tooth in the rear so it takes it pretty good

Stupid question. On my daily commute I go over 2 railroad crossings. One is pretty rough. Will doing this every day cause any damage to a sport bike? Should I get a dual sport for sick jumps over the tracks?

why does the flower have balls

You can lube it and it will help. Warm chain improves lube flow but some is better than none.

Don't go crazy with da lube and wipe off any excess with a lint-free rag. Chains wear at the pins and bushings, not on the outside.

Get a (preferably factory) service manual for your machine to study and learn. Totally worth it.

Some brand-specific forums have them for download, and you can try the Carl Salter free download site. (No malware or bullshit, it's very cool.)

Just slow down a little.

buy new chain asap, probably sprockets too.

Crossings won't hurt your suspension at reasonable speeds. Always approach the rails at 90 degrees so nothing deflects your front wheel.

...

Just dont hit the tracks at 100mph at a 45 degree angle

I got mine geared 16/41 with the 18" rear wheel (about the same as 16/39 with 17") which is really high for these bikes, and I still don't like cruising faster than 70mph.

Thank you. Is there any easy way to check if the o rings are okay? I tried looking online but didn't really get anything

Really don't appreciate the no effort troll advice that's given to newbies. It makes it difficult to tell whether or not I'm in the shit or not.

no it won't hurt your bike. If a car can do it then any bike can do it with great ease.

>jump it with dual sport
yes. not worth buying another bike to do that tho

Me in the back. Finally got a webm to work

>buy new chain asap, probably sprockets too.

No, INSPECT the chain and sprockets. Light external rust on an otherwise sound chain running on acceptable sprockets is only a cosmetic issue.

Many bikes that sat a while get external rust. Chain wears at the pins and bushings, not the plates.

There are plenty of pics of worn vs unworn chains and sprockets on the internet and in service manuals.

yeah i agree, they are not meant for that i usually cruise arounf 60-70 aswell.

Sorry m8 just can't imagine having fucking rust on my chain.

>How's dbt feel about steel grate bridges

Get off your high horse you prick

they're pretty funky. I would hate to crash on one.

>Thank you. Is there any easy way to check if the o rings are okay? I tried looking online but didn't really get anything

If the chain and sprockets are within limits you shouldn't be missing any O-rings but a couple is no big deal. Their function is to retain lube at the pins and bushings. They do not control chain length or sprocket engagement. Roller chain with the O-rings magically removed would wear out sooner, that is all, and if lubed it could last the same.

Illustration in Diamond industrial chain catalog shows where chain wears:

diamondchain.com/understanding-wear-life.php

I don't eyeball for O-rings,fuck that. I check for chain and sprocket wear. Been wrenching for decades and a lot of that was at a shop fixing old disasters dealers wouldn't touch. That's veryfuckingeducational.

A bright cheap LED headlamp is insanely handy for wrenching even in a well lit garage.

1. It depends on year and mileage. One from 2005 shouldn't run more than $2000.
2. 88-07 is the best. They're all okay, though.
3. Anything but neon fucking green is acceptable
Bonus. It doesn't have to be a ninja 250. Hell, a ninja 250 might actually be a dangerous choice for you compared to a "standard" bike with more engine displacement. It just shouldn't be a race bike.

Uhhhh ummm. It's a new species of flower. You trust your uncle to tell you the truth right?

Just taste the flower user.

Don't slow down too much, if you don't have enough momentum the shocks will have to work harder and you get more of a bump

theres a happy medium

will do. srry for bitching

you arent my uncle

beat me a duel imposter

That's kinda motivational, thanks mang.

I'm really considering getting a part time job other than my main as an IT guy, really wanted that 2007 zx6r someone is selling for a couple.

Reminder to always consider road surface conditions, just wiped out at low speed while doing low speed/high angle figure eights in a parking lot to break in my new tires a little and just to get a little more comfortable with leaning farther, motherfucking pile of gravel dust bullshit, and it's my fault for not being attentive.

vicCB400sf I am your uncle. Remember the bathtub plug pull game.

Back it into every parking spot, it's good practice

Post fairings

I didn't jump from a running car, just connect the cables while the car was off.

Anyway I used my own meter but it's just a cheap $5 one from harbor freight.

AutoZone ran their whole little diagnostic thing, said everything was fine, but I don't really trust them for whatever reason.

Battery cables are fine, no obvious corrosion or anything. Just put the battery back in after my meter read 12.65 volts, lights came on fine, everything seemed to be working, turned the power on and tried to crank it up, started to work then everything died and it wouldn't even power the lights... Everything was dead. Now it reads 12.53 volts...

So, is the battery just fucked or do I have a short or something?

It's an '05 honda shadow 600 if that makes any difference.

I prefer toi post on Veeky Forums because it's faster and more times than not I get useful information here.

Slow BEFORE the rails then roll on the throttle slightly to unload the front suspension and transfer weight rearward.

cycleworld.com/2015/10/23/cycle-world-tips-and-tricks-crossing-railroad-tracks-on-your-motorcycle

>front brakes on my rm250 suck
>try bleeding them
>no real improvement
>full rebuild kit into both master and caliper
>better but still shitty

I'm thinking of building a franken-braking system, Supposedly there is a difference between the honda and suzuki nissin brakes from those years, some "fourms" say that swaping a CRF caliper helps. Also looking into putting a brembo master onto it. In theory assuming the banjo bolt was the same size (they are fairly universal from what I can tell) would there be anything wrong with putting the master from a sportbike onto my dirtbike?

Check fuses

If it was shorted, most likely a fuse would have blown. Check your fusebox and report back.

JUST LICK THE GODDAMM FLOWER

you need to go up a very small amount in bore and stroke on your master, or the leverage goes away and the lever feels wooden. find out what yours is, and get 1mm bigger. a sportbike has a very large piston area thanks to dual 4 piston calipers, and a CRF has 2 slightly larger pistons. the math doesnt work out.

shut the FUCK up

sport bike master would probably not be balanced well at all.

I swapped the brembo master from my KTM for a nissin off a DRZ. It improved feel and wasn't as squishy, but I lost some of the braking power. Also the banjo goes at a different angle on the DRZ master so my brake line is held at a funky angle.

okay

>mind the surface conditions, low speed drops

This. My one and only drop was 7 years ago in the first month of owning my first bike, I was pulling into my driveway one February afternoon and there was still a little bit of slush at the curb and the rear tire just *whoop* slipped out from under me and I fell on my side. Thankfully the only "damage" was to my pride and a small scuff on the end of my brake lever but it was a valuable lesson.

Have you considered the pads at all?

Where are the scratches

LICK IT

Mein knackwurst ist throbbin

Well for one thing that's the other side, but there's no scratches. The biggest damage was the first pic, other than that one of my cheapo bar-ends got a chunk taken out of it and my mirror and lever got some scrapes.

Also it probably helped that my foot was stuck under the bike, which likely protected it from some damage. Good fuckin thing I have some sturdy ass boots

Total death then coming back up is interesting.You might have a bad connection. That's typically not a short, but a poor connection that won't pass enough amps. It's common on all brands after they're several years old.

Were your meter probes on the battery posts coming out of the battery itself or the bolt heads or the connectors on the wires?

On those Hondas there is connector on the starter relay solenoid where the rest of the bike gets power. I would inspect the positive cable going to that solenoid (remove the nut and check for corrosion) and the cable coming from that solenoid to your starter. I would carefully unplug the rectangular connector from the solenoid and inspect that, then give it a splash of WD-40 or similar and plug it back in. Then I'd inspect both ends of the ground cable (remove the nut or bolt too) since it's required to complete the circuit.

Since your bike starts off a jump all the major components should be good.

Example noid pic:

amazon.com/Caltric-Starter-Solenoid-SHADOW-1988-2007/dp/B0073J979Q/ref=pd_lpo_263_lp_tr_t_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VKQHSZPT1N2CDZTW73YH

After you clean and reseat your connections, try for a start. If no joy, take a screwdriver you don't care about and, with ignition on (so it will start if it spins) bridge the two nuts in the pic. It's preferable not to hit the studs since arc marks can damage the threads, but they are copper so the nuts usually clean them up on removal anyway.

If bike happily starts when you jump your nuts, replace the relay. You can get to work by jumping as described until the relay arrives.

I'll monitor this thread and the next one, but put "05 honda shadow 600 STARTER PROBLEM" as the first line so I can find it quickly.

If the fuses were blown would it still start hooked up to a car battery?

Can't check right now though, it's dark at this point and there are fucking mosquitoes everywhere. Guess I'll get back to it tomorrow.

>that mini wat
want