If money wasn't an issue and you wanted 1000hp, would you go RB26 or LS1?

Can't beat that inline 5 sound.

>RB26
isn't that a civic engine or something?

>cast crank
>cast pistons
>skinny conrods
>aluminum block

An Ecoboost will grenade before you hit 300HP/L.

To answer the OP, 4 valve Modular.

2jz because I'm too lazy to open the engine

I'd rather boost an LFA V10 to see how it handles boost

Nobody else has an RB26 in Medium-Sized Midwestern Town™, so RB26 for me.

More rotors

>only 500 1LR-GUE's made
>thousands of F140's made thanks to the 599, F12,
FF, and GTC4lusso

I'm kinda curious too but it doesn't mean we should

shits just too precious to risk blowing a hole in the block

LS1. Lower CG, further back in the car, not any heavier.

I'd do a big inch tall deck small block. Even if money isn't an issue it would still be annoying building some high strung POS that breaks down all the time, overheats, have to do major rebuilds on all the time. You could do a Procharged or single turbo ~450ci small block that's somewhat bulletproof

Veyron

Something that was made to make that much power all day and not have any issues

This lol

Rb26

>made to make that much power all day
user...

if money isnt an issue:
sonnysracingengines.com/engines/sar-1005-2100-hp

L67.
its so easy to make power with these and if i had all the money it would absolutely use this.

Nissan sperglord

why stop at 1000 when you can go for 2000

NICE

Air cooled 4 rotor (timed 0-60-60-0) with silicon nitride roller bearings, DLC coated carbon aerogel apex seals, and cubic zirconia coated magnesium housings.

nice autism m8

>he doesn't want an engine that requires no fluids to operate
Confirmed for turbopleb

get a tesla faggot

Not enough braps. Also, don't Teslas have radiators?

You seriously telling me it doesn't require oil for lubrication?

>rebuild every fuel fillup
>it's normal maintenance

Fuck yeah Chiggars

Not when every bearing surface in the entire engine is ceramic on ceramic. That's the whole point.

I must say I'm intrigued but that can't sound good while it's running

Shouldn't sound any different. I'd be surprised if you could hear any bearing sounds from outside the engine. It's not like it'll be grinding, they're made of ultrahard high lubricity ceramics, not steel.

Electric

Why would you stop at 1000hp?
Also, if money was no issue, then Nelson Race Engines is the answer
youtube.com/watch?v=m9imo_dGg9A

I'd say the LS1 would be a little more reliable at 1000hp than the RB26

RB, making 1000hp out of 2.6L takes skill, it doesnt take any to make it from an LS

Yes you can, with an inline 6

Triple rotor NA
BMW S54 fully built with massive ports and lightened and balanced everything revving to 12k
Ferrari v12 as above

Reminds me of that guy who put the 458 V8 in a GT86

Good luck ever getting an S54 anywhere near 12k.

Unless you destroke it to about 2.5 litres.

Even for a turbo 3800 I wouldn't cut out the Trunk. You don't have much storage in the First place

Pontiac V8s circa 50s-'62 or so all had forged cranks, the later cast cranks were stronger.

Ls1. Duh.

>rotor tries to seize in the case because cubic zirconia is a really shitty conductor of heat
>beats the ever living shit out zirconia coating, exposing magnesium housings to combustion
>ignition temperature of magnesium is 883 degrees fahrenheit, combustion temperatures can range from 800F to 2200F
>some 40 pounds of magnesium goes up

Have fun.

What skill does it require?

20 twingos

""No""

For one you want to bore it out to 2.8L. you're going to have to fit a monster single turbo, variable valve timing, forged crank, conrods, pistons, N1 block, new heads, new intake, exhaust, ECU, etc etc etc

By the time you get there it's really no longer an RB26 at all. The realistic max for an RB26DETT is 600 horsepower if you care at all about response. Even then on the street the engine will feel dead. If you want response on the street your max power is much closer to 450-500 at the crank. Conveniently if you do the math this is roughly equivalent to how much power per liter the VR38 can make with stock turbos and some light mods.

Taking the block to a machine shop is skill? Basic engine assembly is something lost upon the unwashed V8 peasantry? Not to mention pretty much all that, verbatim, you'd do to make serious power with an LS engine.

>1000hp
>Aluminium block LS
NOPE.

I choose 2JZ-GTE.

hp
>>Aluminium block LS
>NOPE.
U on crack? People do it all the time

>I choose 2JZ-GTE
Ah I see you choose "insane turbo lag" and "race me from a roll bruh"

>takes skill
Not it fucking does, retard.

Cams for 9,000-9,500rpm, big enough turbo and ID2000 injectors.
Done.

>rebuilding an engine so that it will make 1,000hp without blowing up doesn't take skill

>People do it all the time
And then the block flexes and fails, and then 'people' do iron blocks all the time.

>hurr turbo lag
Or go 3.4L with a borg warner 9180, properly done head and E85 and have fuckall lag.
>hurr from a roll
Exact same happens with a 1000hp LS, nigger.

>For one you want to bore it out to 2.8L
No, you would not.
>you're going to have to fit a monster single turbo
Yes, we're talking 1000hp, not a 200hp civic.
>variable valve timing
You're a retard.
>forged crank
Factory RB26 crank is forged, will do 1000hp all day.
>conrods, pistons
As will an LS1, or a 2J, or any of the ferrari V12 shit people have been posting
>N1 block
Factory block will do 1000.
>new heads
1 head, and no you port the factory.
>new intake
That goes with a new turbo, faggot
>exhaust
As above
>ECU
As does an LS, or 2J

You don't know shit, if you did you would talk about building a 3.4L stroked RB30 block + RB26 head monster like this:
youtube.com/watch?v=l1DAe4S8vdU

Rebuilding an engine isn't some dark art only practiced by reclusive masters of old or some shit, it's a well documented, detailed, rehashed and driven into bedrock procedure. Working out what combinations of parts will make your thousand horsepower WOULD take a bit of skill- But it's been done before and that's all documented and put up for all to see. It takes skill if you want to be a pedantic dictionary definition type, but let's not bullshit each other. Porting cylinder heads is a skill, fabricating a Watts' link (with proper geometry) into a car that never had one takes skill. Unless you're doing some real nasty off the wall combination with basically nothing off the shelf or an engine that doesn't get much love, engine building is pretty basic.

No, it really doesn't.

In the past where you had shitty 98RON, pathetic injectors and journal bearing turbos that ran red hot, yes.

With ID2000s being not just a thing, but a fucking cheap thing and modern ball bearing turbos making a whole hell of a lot less heat, combined with all the years of development, it is not hard at all to make a 1000 flywheel horsepower RB26 or 2JZ.

Spool do a rebuild kit keeping the factory crank and going up to an 86.5mm bore with 8.5:1 compression for $2,395. This includes ACL bearings, which means once you get the block brought out all you need to complete the longblock is a little bit of headwork with some new valves and springs and some decent quality head studs.

You now have the engine ready to take 1000hp, get yourself a decent quality balancer, a well designed exhaust manifold and borg warner EFR9180, a decent intake manifold + fuel rail, ID2000s with the rest of the fuel system to back it up and whatever ECU you like and you're at 1000hp.

It's not hard to make, mate. It's getting it to the ground and doing it in such a way that it's reliable and responsive - i'd personally spend the extra and do an RB30 with the 26 head conversion.

I would get an all-aluminium 3rd gen Hemi.

>new engineering is better than old engineering
Who would have thought?

A properly designed 2016 cast rotating assembly will be weaker than a similar 2016 forged assembly.

It's not the aluminium LS block that faisl. It's usually the rotating assembly on the weaker 5.7 and up units. The 4.8 and 5.3 bottom ends are stout as fuck - and everybody thinks they are, because they're an iron block. However, the 5.3 also comes in aluminium and t's just as stout.

Correlation =/= causation.

>missing the point

Explain the point then, because I'm still missing it.

It's not the rotating assembly, the aluminium blocks unless you get lucky with a particularly thick one have too much flex in them for 1000hp to be reliable, doesn't matter if it's 5.3L or 7L. The max you really want to go on one is around 800hp, otherwise go iron block with massive boost and roll around with 1500hp+.

Same reason you don't try to go more than 1500hp on a stock 2J block, go to billet.

What is it about iron that makes it better for ridiculously high output builds than aluminum? Aluminum is stronger per pound and lighter by strength, so why does it flex?

He stuck his foot in his mouth and had the kneejerk reaction of "cast parts must be weak and can't take power," presumably thinking the only way to make big power is with forged components. I skimped on the explanation on my end that all the baddest of the bad Pontiac 400s used the same damn crank and even until the 2000s or so there were drag racers fueling nitro funny cars making absurd power with those same cast cranks. But I digress, my point was cast parts don't bar you from big power.

Aluminum is stronger per pound, but you don't have as many pounds when it's being poured into the same damn casting as their iron counterparts.

Heat and vibrations, basically. It's actually flex at specific points in the RPM range due to aluminium blocks not being able to dampen vibrations/resonance as effectively that kills LS, AFAIK on things like BMW aluminium I6 it's pretty much all down to heat rather than flex.

Remember though, that this is all at massive power outputs. At 600hp an aluminium LS will last for decades and are lighter than RB30 or 2Js.

>even until the 2000s or so there were drag racers fueling nitro funny cars making absurd power with those same cast cranks
Not that guy, but [citation needed].

>when it's being poured into the same damn casting as their iron counterparts.
Which it isn't.

This.
u r reel smert

Boss Bird funny car, Gay Pontiac, Goateus Maximus, that quad Pontiac V8 powered dragster, forget the the name and pretty much anything else Mickey Thompson did through the 70s and 80s.

Not literally, the same architecture. Bore and various journal size is ancillary.

You silly fuck

The RB26 crank is a liability at 1000hp, you certainly won't get a previously used one to do that for long.

That same architecture gets cast differently in aluminium - which is why they have approximately same strength and flexibility.

Now, again, this means an iron 5.3 and an alloy 5.3 will be about the same - north of 1000hp if you open up the rings enough. However, an alloy 5.7 might break, because it's a different model. The 5.3 and 5.7 are commonly known as LS engines, but they're different blocks altogether.

Thanks for the explanation. I figured it was some esoteric property of metals like specific heat capacity I'd probably need a college course to understand.

I'm not saying i'd do it, i'm just saying you don't NEED an N1 block different crank and all this other shit to do it.

>However, an alloy 5.7 might break, because it's a different model

That's not a reason. How are they cast differently?

I think the point the user was making was how do it with a reasonable degree of reliability, rather than just lashing up a one hit wonder.

While they may be Pontiac based engines, I'm still skeptical they're using that same cast crank for nitromethane applications.

from here he seems pretty informed while you just seem to be guessing

Boss Bird runs in a nostalgia class, only period parts are allowed and nobody had forged cranks for Pontiacs available. Mickey Thompson's shit HAPPENED during the seventies where the best damn shit came as handouts from factories and the best they had were the same cast crank.

V8 LS blocks come in 5 kind of sizes (bore)
>3.78''
>3.898''
>4.00''
>4.06''
>4.125''

All these blocks are cast differently, and stuffed with different internals. Only the 3.78'' blocks got really sturdy rotating assemblies (again, 1000+hp if you open up the rings), the others did not (although they're still very capable). Now, since 90% of the 3.78'' blocks are iron, everybody thinks ''Iron block LS'es are always 1000+hp'', that's wrong. An aluminium 3.78'' is just as strong as an iron one, and the iron 6.0's (4.00'' bore) can be quite weak by comparison (they'll fail before they see 900hp on the stock rotating assembly).

you still haven't explained how they are cast differently

>how they are cast differently
They need to have the same external dimensions, while having vastly different internal bore sizes.
You work out which is stronger, uleh.

Yeah I get that. Explain how they are cast differently.

IIRC, the lower bores have a different mold so they waste less making the bores

You said the Alu block is cast differently to the Iron.
Oh and the Iron 6.0s don't fail due to block integrity so you can't use this to say Alu blocks are stronger.

Nigger you serious, of course they're cast differently you're talking about entirely different temperatures and cooling size changes.

the molds are identical

Bore is effectively ancillary when answering a fundamental question like I did, wall thickness is a heat transfer issue more than a structural one, ergo it's unimportant. With as much eye and caliper I've put on them, I haven't seen any real difference outside of material and journal sizes. Your notion of a weak rotating assembly in the aluminum engines is talking out of your ass too since the LS1 and LQ9 crankshafts are exactly the goddamn same, save for the mounting flange on the ass being a little longer.
Lower bores of what? You're talking cylinder bores so there'll only be one bore- This for the iron or aluminum blocks? And still, how is a minor cost saving method in manufacturing some end all to one being stronger than the other? You REALLY don't sound like you know what you're talking about.

Do you believe every outstanding far fetched claim you hear simply because you don't know any better?
I'm more than happy to sit back and learn something new from someone who seem to be more informed than me, which is why I sparked up this conversation.
The "only period parts are allowed " thing may be true to some degree such as performance parts, but there are still modern safety and manufacturing processes applied to the nostalgia class. And I'm willing to bet in order to keep things competitive in terms of parity performance and sustained cost when competing with the more prevalent Chrysler based Hemis, there'd be concessions made for such components to be manufactured in methods that were available during the period anyway.

No they aren't. If you pour aluminium into an iron mold, it'll harden differently (and badly at that), and the end product is weaker.

>Your notion of a weak rotating assembly in the aluminum engines is talking out of your ass too since the LS1 and LQ9 crankshafts are exactly the goddamn same, save for the mounting flange on the ass being a little longer.
I am literally saying that the 3.898'' and 4.00'' bore blocks (like the LQ9 and LS1) are weaker than the 3.78'', and that aluminium engines are not weaker than iron ones.

>No they aren't. If you pour aluminium into an iron mold, it'll harden differently (and badly at that), and the end product is weaker.
and what happens if you pour iron in an alu mold?

Yeah, no.

Iron and Aluminium cool (and shrink) in entirely different ways, stop being an idiot.