Motor oil for Motor cars?

My new Echo is a bit low on oil, what brand does Veeky Forums reccomend, what brand do you hate, and which are perfectly mediocre, excelling in no way, but failing nowhere?

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archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/14985876/#q14985876
archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/15515997/castrol-vs-mobil-vs-quaker-state#p15562761
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Castrol edge is all I use these days.

whatever is synthetic and is on sale.

All that matters is the API seal. Walmart Supertech is $2.44/qt.

To say all oils are the same would be untrue, however oil is oil and you should not concern yourself with the brand, or even too much with the weight.

The fact is your engine needs oil to run, but it isnt picky. The pistons dont know the difference and oil starts to immediately break down as soon as the engine is started.

If your engine calls for 5W-20, you can safely run 5W or 10W whatever in any brand and be fine.

Not saying i recommend this but you could probably run 90 weight gear oil and be fine.

I bought wheel bearing grease at the parts store today. They had a great selection. There was grease for jap cars, grease for euro cars, grease for gm, ford, toyota and the list goes on. The fact is as with motor oil, that bearing dosent give a shit what kind of grease I put on it at as long as its bearing grease.

is most oil the same? i think the filter matters more. fuck fram

...

Whatevs on sale
it's an echo

Ok, I'm going to get some oil, only the gas stations are open today, and I will pick Shell over Petrocanada oil or circleK oil.

>only the gas stations are open today
what the fuck? Are you italian?

Canadian, Labour day.

What's wrong with Fram? I don't really pay much attention to the brand of oil or filter but I usually end up with a Fram filter and I've never noticed any problems.

...

My grandfathers Camaro started rattling, so he took off the oil pan, and found a pebble in the sump. He removed his fram filter, and they didn't crimp it right, leaving a hole through the filter.

t. royal purple shill

Get some coloured pencils while you're at it m8

It is only an echo, but it's my echo. Why shouldn't I treat my shitbox like a luxury coupe??

Probably going to stick to Motorcraft semi-synth for the first couple changes, than switch to full synth Mobil1. I doubt there is much difference in quality between oil brands though.

You guys don't have to trust me, and frankly it really dosent matter a bit to me if you do.

Fact is I rebuild classic cars for a living, do all my own maintenance and with the exception of things like tires I have never once sent my vehicle to a shop to have work done. Ive spent more time wrenching on cars then most of Veeky Forums has spent reading about it.

Im also not spewing bullshit, all of my claims have research behind them, with the exception of gear oil, which is why I dont recommend it.

I'm not sure why you think I'm shilling anything. I'm literally doing the exact opposite.

Here's what you need to know, since you appear to be a rather unaware newfriend.

oil is measured in 1x2, where 1 is the cold temp and 2 is the warm temp...

Since you're a canuck, you won't need a very warm running oil, so that means the 2 number will be a 30. However, being Leaf, you're going to have very cold winters. I'd recommend 0 or 5w30, and then full synthetic.

Oil brand doesn't really matter too much. You'll have people that give you grief for using X oil, but really routine maintenance is your best friend, not brand loyalty. For oil filters I stick to OEM, whatever your manufacturer uses. Filters are like 5 Canadian dollarydoos.

as long as you drain the oil, go ahead and switch over to full synthetic. It breaks down slower than semi and natural oil.

Depending on how much you drive, while running synthetic, you'll want to do an oil change every 6 months or 10,000 km~, whichever comes first. I prefer to do one in the spring, right as it's warming up in March/April, and then another one in the fall, right before it gets cold, in Oct/November.

>all of my claims
What claims?

Did you not read the post? I wont retype it. If you can find any claims in then you arent very bright.

Cant*

For general shit box use Moble Super, if it's under warranty i'll use who the OEM recommends. I dislike Pennzoil and Quaker State just because the quick lube place I used to work at used bulk Pennzoil/Quaker State (literally had both names on the 55gal drums) and it was total shit, it always smelt burnt. I could tell if it was our bulk oil by the smell alone. Even with 3k miles on it it smelled that way. Granted this was bulk oil so not really fair but life is not fair.

>your engine needs oil to run
>oil starts to immediately break down as soon as the engine is started.
Golly gee, really?
>you could probably run 90 weight gear oil and be fine.
No shit Sherlock, 30w motor oil = 90 weight gear oil.
>Bearing dosent give a shit what kind of grease I put on it
Fascinating and controversial claims, jackass.

Im not sure what your problem is. The op asked for info on oil. I gave it to him. Now if you my enlightened friend were the op, and you opened with "I know all about oil, please tell me nothing." Then be sure I would not have bothered to post.

Now that I think of it I really shouldn't have. Your contributions to the the thread have been so insightful and full of wisdom that there is really no reason to add any more. Bravo to you, you little expert you.

Be sure to enjoy your night and get plenty of rest for that big brain.

This

>every 6 months

Is this a meme?

Even manufacturers recommend once a year, if not longer.

I can't speak for Canadialand, but I live in a place where it will change 80 F in the span of two months, and sometimes 50 F in a single weekend. The temp changes do fucky things with my sensitive car.

I would recommend every 6 months, but if it's just an econobox to get rid of in another 2-3 years, then once a year will be enough...

>My new Echo is a bit low on oil, what brand does Veeky Forums reccomend,

There are some good oil choice discussions archived in the following threads:

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/14985876/#q14985876

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/15515997/castrol-vs-mobil-vs-quaker-state#p15562761

Full Synthetic oil is a reasonable choice for modern engines. Conventional oil has a lot of impurities in it as well as oil molecules of different sizes. Some of those molecules oxidize easily which is why conventional oil and blended oils both turn dark quickly.

The first thread has a link to 540RAT oil database which is worth looking over for the articles and tested oils.

>you could probably run 90 weight gear oil and be fine.
nigga you retarded.

Thanks, i put some Shell 5W30 in it for now, it's running quieter. I'll do an oil change when it calls for it.

i live in north Alberta and was a mechanic for years, even the old fucks putting 1000km a year that always went to our garage we would only tell them come once a year for oil changes

everything depends on how much oil youre burning and such, my 3/4 ton Silverado burns oil bad so i run 10w-30 Mobil 1 with a liter of 75w-90 gear oil in the engine, never had an issue even in -40c. my old Nissan KingCab was absolutely dicked and burned 2-3L of oil every week or two, i ran nearly straight ATF in the crankcase yearround being cheaper and it got rid of the valve noise lol

For some reason, people always recommend 30w50 for my old firebird, but is it actually the right choice? That's pretty heavy.

>30w50
No such thing. 20w-50 is ok if you live in a hot climate.

>My new Echo is a bit low on oil, what brand does Veeky Forums reccomend

Keep the oil level in that cross-hatched zone on your dipstick. Don't overfill the oil.

In the USA, full synthetic oil is cheapest in the 5-quart jugs at wal-mart. All the big name branded full synthetic oils are around $24 for five quarts. If the engine calls for 5W20, then don't use 5W30 in it.

You said your Echo was low on oil and adding oil to it lowered the noise level. That sounds like it was pretty low on oil if you can hear cams. How much oil did you add to get the level back into the cross-hatch area on the dipstick?

>my old Nissan KingCab was absolutely dicked and burned 2-3L of oil every week or two, i ran nearly straight ATF in the crankcase yearround being cheaper and it got rid of the valve noise lol

It's all that casual treatment that caused the engines to get to that point. So they now burn up to 3 liters of oil per week as a result of giving them the wrong oils in their lifetime. In comparison, I've driven my new nissan (not a kingcab because nope) approx 3000 miles since the previous full synthetic oil change and it has only gone down a few MM in the crosshatch area on the dipstick. I'd really hate seeing my car go thru 2 to 3 liters of oil per week like your car. So I plan on using only the recommended oils.

Oil is oil only if you look at it as providing some lubrication. Is the lubrication enough though? Apparently not if the vehicle now burns up to 3 liters of oil per week.

>what brand does Veeky Forums reccomend

All the major full synthetic name brand oils are good as long as they meet your required oil viscosity. So if your new Echo needs 5W20 then that is the type you use.

Don't put in Extended Mileage oils though since those are for high mileage cars that are leaking oil. Extended Performance oils are different though and are for normal engine use. I wonder how many people buy the wrong oil due to reading comprehension error?

>new nissan
>approx 3000 miles since oil change
>it has only gone down a few MM
Sounds right.

Nissans that burn 2 to 3 liters of oil per week must be getting a lot of blowby into the crankcase. Makes me wonder about piston slap in that engine.

>burn 2 to 3 liters of oil per week
He's probably driving a couple thousand miles a week.