QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

verts are fkin dope

>n/a rotary

It's not as fun as you think

Looking for a hot hatch/coupe - light and small - no more than £10k, cheaper would be nice.

>fastest 0-60 possible
>decent enough handling as possible
>low maintenance
>2012 or newer

I don't care about top speed - just acceleration and reliability mostly.

I have a nice list from previous threads, so suggestions from this thread and so I imagine this will be done.

Thanks lads.

Awesome.

It can't be any less fun than a V6 3 speed automatic Bronco II.
Unless you count almost rolling over on corners at any decent speed fun.

How do I clean my engine bay?

Do I really just spray with de-greaser and hose it down? Tips?

>hot hatch/coupe
>no more than £10k
>2012 or newer
Fiesta ST would be the obvious choice. Ecoboost 1.6 Focus possibly too. Just for some fast name dropping: Polo GTI, VXR Corsa/Astras, Abarth 500, Alfa Giulietta/Mito, Mini Coupe Cooper S, Couple of Frenchies like the Clio 200, Citroen DS3 1.6, Peugeot RCZ for something a bit different. Maybe even a 5 door 120d BMW

A steam cleaner is good if you have one. Obviously don't blast it directly at your electronic components (ECU, fuseboxes, ignition components, alternator) or at your radiator, and it'll come out nice. Use degreaser and a brush to take off anything that's caked on

Thanks m8 - I think the Fiesta is my prime choice - but that is very useful.

It's ironic because I drive a standard Fiesta right now as well so hopefully it'll be good on the part exchange as well.

Im using my dads old 2004 model SUV, so problem is when i brake slowly it noises. Why is that?

pls

bump

New question for you qt.dots

I have a set of 05-09 alloy f250 wheels (18") that came on my 01 f250 when i brought it. Ive since put the correct 16" steelies on to correct a few ussues.

Is Craigslist my best option to sell the 18s? I thought fleabay but the shipping would probably be outrageous and i leave myself open to anal pain if the mouth breather who bought them wants a return because they're the wrong color or don't fit his shitbox Nissan or something.

Have any of you sold big parts non locally?

What's the purpose of adding the random characters after a trip? Are they supposed to 'prove' someone is the trip? Can't anyone add them?

t. austist

Truck overheated today. In like rush hour traffic. Almost went to 125°C. Turning the cabin fan on cooled it down but not sure why this happened. Coolant looks a bit low now don't think there's a leak. Coolant dissapears over time right? Or does my oil look like it's contaminated with coolant? Synthetic about 4k km old.

...

Started with driving lessons, had my 8th hour today. 24 to go, is there anything I can do between driving lesson school to improve? Anything thats recommended?

Go to harbor freight and buy a 3/8" airline water seperator and some airline. Hook it up to the PCV valve on one side and the intake between the filter and the MAF on the other.

Europoor that's looking for a sedan has to be a manual and atleast 250hp got 18k budget.
What do you guys think about this car?

autowereld.nl/audi/a4/3-2-fsi-quattro-pro-line-garantie-6-maanden-19181432/foto.html#foto-4

Do replacement yourself.

Have post-replacement alignment done by shop.

Does anyone remember which penzsoil Motor oil wasn't Synthetic? I remember the penzsoil platinum had issues like isn't wasn't completely synthetic

Tbqh out does looked a little washed down, but it also depends which oil you've used n shit. The dipstick picture looks completly fine. but the other one Looks like chocolate milk which isn't a good sign at all. How does it look compared to previous oil checks?

The oil was caked on the dip stick for some reason? Aboot the same though. I just put coolant in so im going to keep an eye on the resovior. How fucked am I if it's leaking into the oil?

The oil put in by the way.

My gas filler door and manual says that ethanol content up to 15% is good, so I've been filling it with 94 octane (about 101 RON in Euro terms) which is 10% ethanol. Would using zero-ethanol fuel like Shell 91 be better for my engine life, or will there be negligable difference? Would E30 blends damage my engine/injectors if I decided to tune my car for it?

i dont really know about engine life, but i know that with older cars, higher ethanol is bad because it can wear out things like rubber impellers in the fuel pump

There was also caked on oil on the stick. Maybe the oil is damaged from overheating?

...

My carburettor engine sometimes stutters when I take the key out as If stalling instead of turning off.
Also maybe once or twice a month it does one or two hiccups before stopping. It's also the first summer I've driven this car.

Piston rings or is this normal?
It's most frequent when choke is engaged.

any good cheap ebay/amazon dash cams? would be for my rear window since I already have a good quality front facing one.

I mean there's some that are like $20 and people complain about the quality but for that price I feel like it's worth having in the event of being rear ended.

hell i've found some for $12

Bought a cheap aftermarket stereo for my 95 taurus, but have no clue how to remove the original one and cant find jack all on the internet

I found a roof rack in my friends garage and he said i could have it. It doesnt have mounts so i dont know how to mount it to my roof. I was thinking zip ties? I want something that wont scratch my roof.
>pic not related

What am I in for?

installdr.com/installdocs/flm/PDF/356011.pdf

go on ebay or amazon and see if you can buy the mount and hardware
if not get creative

nothing special
you forget about it quickly until someone does something retarded
make it a habit to save the file (if you've got cyclic recording go on)

My pcv hose keeps sucking in oil.
It sucks in so much that it starts dripping from the intake manifold and the engine stalls.
Why is it doing this?
Is the oil level under the valve cover filling up so much that it reaches the pcv valve?
Is something clogged up?

the crank case is pressurizing excessively, most likely its worn piston rings, what you are experiencing is known as blow by, it will only get worse, until big failure.

fuck.

Is there any smoke from the oil cap or dipstick with the engine running?

Is the car turbocharged?

I'm new to cars (like barely change my own oil new), and I don't know where to jack my car up.

1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GT 3.8L

Is it the pinch weld?
>I think I know where those are
Am I supposed to jack it up and put it on the jack stands one side at a time?

No one online says to jack it anywhere in the middle.

I'm also too ignorant to understand most of the terminology.

I just point the PCV hose away from the intake and plug the PCV hole in the intake.

I drove many beaters and fixed many more. The only reason PCV dumps into intake is emissions. Before PCV systems the crankcase vented to atmosphere.

Play forza

...

What nation are you in?
What to driving lessons entail?
What tests do you need to pass?
Do you get your license after you pass, or just your permit?

Need some more info before we can help you.

bump

My personal experience playing with Mitsubishi 4M4 diesels (and various other Japanese light vehicle diesels) has taught me that excessive blow-by as the other poster mentioned is not necessarily the cause. It could be as simple as a PCV that's worn or dirty.
Just this week I pulled the valve cover off my Pajero's motor and gave the PCV a good soaking with kerosene, and the amount if gunk that came out was impressive. After a couple more soaks, and the oil return now flowing freely I flushed it with tap water, compressed air an let it sit for 24hrs.
After a couple of days of driving with a lot of right foot, it's gone from having a thin constant film of oil all the way up the intake tract to the point it was soaking past the hose clamped to the intake manifold, to not even being remotely damp in the breather tube.

I'd suggest doing a compression test, and if all is within spec, try cleaning or replacing with an OEM ventilation valve. If the compression is down however, just drive it until you can rebuild it.

part 2

no turbo and no smoke.
Not sure if its related or not, but it backfired the other day and the muffler exploded.

I don't know shit about cars.

What's the best way to learn the terminology and operation?

I'm not in a position currently where I can just have a burner car I can take apart to learn, nor take night classes.

I'd really like to know more about cars, but I have no idea to start, and nobody in my family who can help.

And this. An appropriate eBay catch can help prolong an otherwise tired engine just that little bit longer.
I still want to get a Provent for each if my cars however.

Thanks a lot.

Where'd you get this?
Is this the service manual?
I tried to find one online, but every site was sketchy and wanted money for it.

I'm in the process of looking for a very cheap old car - 90s Toyota. If I drive more than 300 miles a week, what mileage should I look for when browsing old Toyotas? 100k max? 150k?

I'd be having a compression check done, it's easy to do if you have a tester. If you have normal compression which I assume you don't, look into replacing or cleaning the pcv valve.

A backfire powerful enough to destroy a muffler, would lead me to think it is piston rings, the fuel mix in the cylinder affected is getting past the rings, reintroduced to the inlet, and back into the cylinder, causing an excessive fuel/air mix which is preheated and detonates in the cylinder, but is not fully burnt by the exhaust stroke and is reigniting in the exhaust.

Compression test for you sir.

No worries. It is from the service manual, I have many of them, for many cars.

Cool, thanks for the help, I got it up without bending shit!

Nice, happy wrenching.

I guess ill order a compression tester.
thanks.

make sure when you test, you have wide open throttle, and all spark leads disconnected.

write down results from all cylinders.

Sorry for being the bearer of bad news, but you did ask.

>had a minor radiator leak already, like half a gallon from the reservoir in 5-6 months so it wasn't worth fixing
>just did an 1100 mile drive from ~4800 feet to ~700 feet altitude
>driving today and start overheating like a mother fucker
>reservoir completely empty
>started filling radiator from cap a few minutes ago
>took nearly a half gallon by itself and was still thirsty for more
Someone said this happened when they did a similar drive and not to worry but what are your thoughts Veeky Forums? It doesn't look like it just dumped the whole thing all at once, I wasn't watching the level and it looks more like it was just getting spit out at a fast rate due to the long drive over time.
>inb4 get a new radiator

I'm essentially getting a free NIssan Maxima 2010, what am I in for? I've only ever driven/worked on shitty 80-90s ricers. Can I make this car fast?

pls help i have a fear of newer cars

you would fit in just fine here

computer nannies will probably cock block you from hooning

first, what do you drive that has a 2.5 litre reservoir?

The whole cooling system on a car is around 5 litres and most of that in the radiator and block/heating system.

Don't ever put cold water into an overheating engine, you will crack something, namely the block.

My opinion is the pump or thermostat has failed, and now you have cooked the head or block....

Which Top Gear version do people say to watch to help learn about cars? Is it the really old one? I assume it's the old one.

Speed is just a question of money - how fast can you go?

So I should trade it in yes?
Pretty fast, is the car worth effort of making it fast? Is essentially what I'm asking, can I make it a fast car something worth keeping around.

You can, it's a nissan, if you have money you can make it stupid fast, but why spend the money when you can flip it, and use the money you already have >apparenlty to buy an evo or something?

>first, what do you drive that has a 2.5 litre reservoir?
XJ
>The whole cooling system on a car is around 5 litres and most of that in the radiator and block/heating system.
Fucking lol no, I just looked it up and the whole system is over 4 gallons of coolant which would explain why it was taking so much in the radiator.
>Don't ever put cold water into an overheating engine, you will crack something, namely the block.
I didn't, it had been sitting for at least 4 hours and was cool to the touch.
>My opinion is the pump or thermostat has failed, and now you have cooked the head or block....
A fucked pump or thermostat would not have drained all the coolant out like that.

So today I tried ripping a skid coming out of a gas station, and just as I got into the drift, my truck cut off.
Like as if it has traction control.

Now this is confusing because I literally drifted the he'll out of it and donuts, and 4x4 donuts/drifts all on dirt and it never did this.

So after googling, people say to cut the wire that requests torque from the ecu to the pcm.

Huh. Really makes you think...

Because I won it and it's free I thought I could make it a fun car but if it's really just a fwd family car I think I'll just trade it for something cooler I wont be afraid to work on, I hate taking cars to the mechanic. I don't like EVOs my brother has one and he'd just shit on me for copying him.

11.5 litres is not 4 gallons, a fucked pump has a release hole that bleed coolant if the bearings have gone as and indication. Since you want to be a salty bro, enjoy doing that head gasket.

>Drive a 2000 Grand Prix GTP
>Generally love the car
>Makes enough money to buy a new "fun" car
>Don't really want to stop driving my GTP

Thinking of pulling the engine and rebuilding it myself and sending the upper end to be ported by some speed shop. Talk me out of it because the GTP is not worth this kind of work.

you can make it a cool car if you have money, try getting some jdm parts for it, like intake and exhuast, and a piggy back ecu and map it, you can get front lsd kits for it, brakes, coilovers, bigger fuel pumps and injectors, and hell if you have the money, get a 50 of nitrous.

If you are going to do it, start with the exhaust system and the intake system, but it's going to rack up some big coin.

It's 11.5-12.7 quarts, not liters. And all of the leaking was directly under the radiator, nowhere on or near the block had any indication off coolant leaking.

do you know what a quart is?

Its not a gallon son, it's under a litre. A gallon is 5 litres.

That leaking is coming from the pumps release hole, like I said.

Do you still think your car has a 4 gallon cooling system?

Seems like it's an okay base car, but couldn't I get a Mustang instead fix that up? I had 5.0 that I really liked. I mean you can make anything anything fast but I always hated the idea of sleepers.

a mustang won't go round a corner though. If you are into the whole straight line crap, then get a mustang and make it 100000000000000000XBHP, but a standard civic will leave you for shit on a proper road.

>do you know what a quart is?
>Its not a gallon son, it's under a litre. A gallon is 5 litres.
That's a bong gallon and even that isn't correct for them, it's 4.5 liters. I'm in the states and a gallon is ~3.7 liters.

>That leaking is coming from the pumps release hole, like I said.
The water pump is bolted to the FRONT OF THE FUCKING BLOCK and there was ABSOLUTELY NO INDICATION AT ALL OF LEAKAGE ON OR AROUND THE BLOCK.

I will admit I was doing the math a wrong, it's midnight and I should have gone to sleep like 3 hours ago. Point remains, the pump isn't leaking and neither is the head.

what happens to pressurized fluid?

You know that both your replies were to me?

You know that jags spit over pressured coolant onto the radiator from the pump under road rpm when it has failed?

Yeah, go to bed.

I'll admit I'm a pleb horsepower is always the most impressive aspect of a car for me.

then go drive a light car in the hills that has some balls, that will change it for you.

>jags
>JAGS
The other XJ, user. You know, the one that is actually common and far more likely for someone on Veeky Forums to be driving?

oh sorry, I thought you were talking about a decent car. Disregard everything.

Nothing like driving a fox across an open road for me, not a lot of curvy roads here anyway just miles of squares shaped streets in every direction.

I can't help with straight all the time, I come from rally people.

Tiny filter should be fine, you can get them for a few bucks at any auto parts store. (They're generally even sold as breather filters.)

We used a few as a temporary solution on our race car while waiting for custom parts to be machined and they worked fine.

I new I'd use this somday

Currently looking for a new DD (5k budget). I want something that feels nice and sporty, however I'm coming from a bone stock KE70 corolla. Should I actually be looking at sporty cars or will pretty much anything feel sporty in comparison? Only new car Ive driven was a Camry hybrid and even it felt fast but it felt like a huge boat.

Wat kind of rear suspension do Top Fuel dragsters use?

Who builds the dogleg 7-speed manual in the Aston V12 Vantage?

>Mazda
>N/a
>Convertible
Sounds like you should consider a Miata. Half the headache, 90% of the fun, if not more.

The cheap ones.

Could be literally anything. Check pads and discs, and report back to us.

Read your theoretical stuff, properly evaluatie the lesson you had: what went wrong, what went right, what needs improving. You're probably too young to really improve your driving by yourself, so make as much out of the lessons as possible. If you really want to do something besides that, I'd recommend Euro Truck Simulator (go ask /ovg/).

Bump

In the netherlands.
Eventually on the exam they go over almost everything, parking and stuff, dont know the list as we dont focus on the exam yet. If I pass I will get license directly, and I already passed my theory.