FRAM

K&N is fine and they mold the ends so you can wrench them off if you're lazy.

Ppl that get way into oil filters usually don't know how to rebuild an engine and just want to sound smart. I've thrown literally hundreds of cheap Fram filters from Walmart onto cars without ever having problems with them. I mean if you're gonna put parts on a high end performance vehicle you may as well get something better but in most cases it doesn't matter if so long as you have regular intervals between changes.

Forgot to mention it's not that black textured fram, it's glossy white exterior if that makes a difference to quality. Also I was gonna switch it out for a puralator and royal purple oil, thoughts on royal purple?

I change every 1.5k-2k miles regareless of brand. You definitely don't have to do this. Some experienced old mechanics I know stand by the idea that you want to be consistent with whatever you're using once you find something that works with your engine/climate. These are the same guys that only go to one type of gas station though so take it with a grain of salt.

This.

I've also used Fram for many an oil change and have never had one problem with them. Racecar gets different tho.

Mobil 1 gets the same oil analysis results and actually has longer wear times than royal purple. I used to buy it when I could get it for $70 a case, but will be switching to Mobil 1 because it's cheaper.

Royal Purple is shitty meme oil. You're better off with Walmart house brand oil, which is actually surprisingly good.

FWIW I use Mobil 1 in my R32 Skyline and it seems fine even though I daily it like a nerd. 30k miles so far :)

So are there any benefits to royal purple, amsoil, or red line?
You change every 2k? Is there a particular reason? That sounds early to me

Is Motorcraft good? Is it basically a Ford brand?

I wouldn't say royal purple is shitty, it's not. It is definitely over priced for what it is though.

Mobil1 master race btw. Rotella is good too

>costs more
>haha its shit
>but supertech is good
Yeah, okay.
Anything more than Mobil 1 in a DD seems like a complete waste to me. Not sure about the oil results for amsoil or redline, I'm sure they're pretty close to Mobil 1 though.

I got access to drums full of it for free at my boss's body shop.

I only run Mobil1. I had run it for about 70k that I had owned my old Wrangler when I had a piston skirt shatter around 150k miles. Pulled the head off and everything was remarkably clean. A friend who has owned his own repair shop since the late 70's took a look and even he was commenting on how nice the valves and everything looked. No sludge and very little carbon in sight.

Best oil filters: Mobil1, K&N, Wix.
Pretty fucking good tier: Everything else
Fram Tier: Fram

That IS NOT a motorcraft filter. I have opened up motorcraft oil filters and they DO NOT look as good as the OP pic. They're BARELY any better than fram.

My shity cheap mechanics near me dont even use them.

God Tier: Amsoil/Donaldson
Top Tier: Wix/Mann
Top Tier for price: Puroilator/Mobil
Pleab Tier: K&N and store brand
Shit Tier: Fram

Are the OEM Subaru filters made by Fram? shit, I have been buying filters from the subaru dealership

Who has the oil ranking chart handy?

Your mom

She only posts on /soc/ and /hc/

Why is motorcraft included in OP pic

Was on display at Ferd dealer

Mobil1 full synthetic, because it's the only kind my 9-5 can run right with.
Purolator oil filter, because I may as well save some money.
K&N for the air filter, because the stock Mann stuff almost takes up the entirety of the air box.

Mobil 1 filter with Mobil 1 Extended "5w25" mix masterrace. Best filter, best oil based on oil analysis studies.

I've used literally every kind of filter on all sorts of shitboxes. Even made in China bullshit. Guess what, it make's no fucking difference.

>because the stock Mann stuff almost takes up the entirety of the air box.

Thus providing maximum surface area for filtration..........

maybe he wants the room to store weed in?

It's a closed-in airbox, and the stock filter size is almost squashed in there. The airbox is the structure on the bottom left.

>"studies"

Mind linking some, Schlomo?

...and here we have one of the original Mann filters in place. It's just shy of suffocating in there.

It's not suffocating, it's designed to be compressed inside the air box so that it maximizes area. You are also supposed to rotate it every 500 miles until you have concentric dirty patches from the intake, then replace.

Use Bosch on my Ford and Mann on my Mercedes.

Chinese Knockoffs are much better.

I like that filter housing

It sure felt like it was suffocating. After I switched to the smaller one it felt like the response was sharper.

You will have more response, but sacrifice top end.

your restriction with the larger filter comes from the inlet to the box, the smaller filter allows for more deadzone in the box, resulting in an easier pull of air, this is fine until the limit of airflow is reached by the smaller filter.

If you drilled/enlarged the inlet to the standard box, or routed more airways to it and kept the larger filter, not only would you see increased response, but at high rpm, it would flow more, meaning the engine would compensate by adding more fuel, meaning you get more power all across the board.

Tl;dr your car will accelerate quicker with the small filter, but will lose mid and top end, which is where your car was designed to work.

I think a lot of these photos are dated. I've cut most non-premium parts store filters open in the last year and they all pretty much look the same. There's really only a few major manufacturers that make 98% of all oil filters. Many premium filters don't really look that much better inside. Maybe slightly better built, but not really more surface area or anything like that. Many high performance filters are actually worse than parts store filters unless you're changing oil and filters every each race and have semi-regular engine refreshes and/or rebuilds. If you have an expensive high performance engine then sure spend $10-20 on an oil filter. Otherwise the parts store filter and oil are just fine in your commuter with regular service.

>top shelf purolater is made in the same factory as wix.

Theres only a handful of actual manufacturers, filters are just relabeled.

bosch any good?
I change my oil about every 3k and usually use mobile 1 filters but couldn't find it this time around

>every 3k miles?

Why? Do you race your car for most of those 3k miles? A good oil and filter will do 5-7.5k in less than ideal conditions easy. I do 10k in a highway commuter.

>using anything other than OEM
spot the plebs

>Go to change oil for the first time on pic related.
>Filter housing has "MANN" embossed on it.
>Nobody sells a Mann filter for this thing. Not even sure if they're even made anymore.
>Put in Hengst filter instead because it's fucking pleated fleece and some metal, just like the the non-existent Mann filter and the $20 Bosch filter that was my other option.

Also:
>Implying OEMs don't just use whatever filters they can get for the lowest price because who the fuck is going to use an OEM filter after the first oil change?

Dropped my pic.

I recommend you run the proper OEM filter instead of fram shit on a s2k.

I am interested in your glossy white exterior Fram can

So what's the verdict, early change or wait until next? If it's any relation, the engine has 23k miles

Sorry buddy, I don't have a picture of it and it'll be two weeks until I get back home. When I get home I'll make a thread about it. Expect it around the 25th. Thread will be about how often Veeky Forums changes oil

I like bosch filters

Purolator/Walmart Super Tech master race
But would it hurt my car if I went right from this to premium synthetic. It's 10w30

Maybe the OP is a Ford shill on a subliminal mission

>supertech
>mobile 1 synthetic costs less after a rebate

>should I change out the filter and oil prematurely
Yes, but stick with whatever type of oil the manufacturer recommends.

They don't entirely give me a brand, but 10w-30 is what it uses. So puralator/wix filter, mobil 1 full synthetic 10w-30 oil, and a picture of the fram filter for user?

I always use either purolator or motorcraft, whichever is easier to get

Suoertech are now made by wix they are exactly the same as the current oreilly auto microguards. Ive used both.

JUST
U
S
T

oreilly microguard parts are fucking shit. i can only imagine the oil filters are the same quality

Honeywell makes the PLM-A02

They own fram

Cut it open for a peek inside.

>Purolator
A significant percentage of their can filters have been having holes in them. Purolator doesn't respond to their emails.

Frams seem pretty good to me although I've only opened up one metal can and made a mess all over myself. Never again. It looked like it was properly made even though the grimy oil made the filter surface look creepy.

I will keep on using Fram Ultra with full synthetic oil.

>Please don't tell me you buy this shit
You cheated and used a chinese knockoff for Fram. The problem right now is that there are chinese copies of Fram filters. So if your retailer is willing to make extra profit by getting filters from dodgy sources, then that is a problem for Fram's reputation.

Fram's technical director said on other forums they don't use cardboard endcaps. So don't fall for chinese knockoff copies.

easy to torque

Found this image a while back. Wix/NAPA master race.

Why don't you have a Mann?

Just to note on this, Wix/NAPA filters are one of the only brands that use actual springs instead of stamped metal to provide pressure against the silicone gasket in the filter.

Fram is a complete fucking joke. The only time I made the mistake of installing a fram was when I was new to taking care of my car. After putting in fram filter and 5w-30 Valvoline in my expedition, shit sounded like a tractor instantly. 100 miles later of the same sound I figured I should try changing the filter. Went with Motorcraft, engine was immediately quiet ever since.

Now I only use motocraft filters for my Fords (own expedition and crown victoria) and use Pennzoil High mileage oil.

It really doesn't matter. My dad and I run Yeah filters in our cars and always have, and both cars are over 200k miles.

I got an ap2 as well. Buy that oem filter specifically just for the S2000 that s2ki recommends. i forgot the model number. Run 10-30 full synthetic mobile1 oil. It goes on sale every 4 months. $13 after rebate. I stock up like a mad man

Good news is most motorcraft filters are made by Donaldson.

Fram isn't all bad, just can't trust it for shit. Fram has reps on bobistheoilguy forums asking for pics of their cut open filters because of shady practices done by their Chinese manufacturing partners.

...

Daily reminder toilet paper filters are best.

>k&n great
>mobile 1 meh
Its the same filter in a different housing.

Sounds good man, any other s2000 tips I should chalk up on? She's my second car, so I'm not the most experienced on little stuff

MANN master race

Here's one
corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/2811969-lab-results-in-mobil1-vs-royal-purple.html

Majority of eom filters are relabeled top tier stuff.
Its better to spend an extra 5¢ on a filter for every car than replace 25% of the engines under warranty because of shit filters.

Car manufacturers don't make every part that goes on their cars.
>bendex brakes
>Dana differentials
>Borg warner transmissions
List is endless.

52# boost in my dsm using fram filter and dino oil.

4th year now over 30# boost using fram and cheapest oil.

never a problem.

come at me.

You forgot the Purolator PureOne filter as one of the best

rotary breh gotta hit them rpm's, shit turns black real quick

Chances are you put the fucking filter on wrong lmao