I am trying to get a old 1962 Plymouth Valiant v200 started. It sat for 3 years...

I am trying to get a old 1962 Plymouth Valiant v200 started. It sat for 3 years, PO died and I bought it from his dad for $400. It did not have a carb so I installed a Motorcraft 2150 on it. Only 2 vacuum lines I can find are the one that goes to the distributor advance and one that goes past firewall for heating I think.

The motor is a 225 3.7l slant six, I replaced plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, coil, ballast resistor fuel pump. Points system was replaced with a Pertronix Ignitor electric ignition. I've got fuel and spark, and checked the timing about 100 times. The crank pulley timing mark lines up with TDC so I don't think it has slipped. All I can get is a backfire from the carb. Any advice?

youtube.com/watch?v=hhIlzh-iRw4

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Find top dead center on any given cylinder.
That is now cylinder #1, rewire distributor accordingly.

Old shade-tree mechanic trick I've picked up.

Have you tried to start it on starting fluid? If it won't start on that then it's something timing related possibly. You could also check the compression too.

Already did this

Starting fluid just makes the carb go poof harder

Is the rotor-button backwards?

if you havent already flush fuel lines.
because its been sitting for so long re-time TDC on #1 cylinder again. make sure the fuel pump is working. if its not you can get away with using a electric one for now. are your plugs and points gap set correctly?

I have tried with every tooth of the distributor. I don't think it is my distributor timing. When I have my rotor-botton pointed at the #1 post on the distributor and #1 piston at TDC I get nothing but maybe like an extremely low pitched faint noise that I think is coming from the exhaust. If I turn the rotor-button 180 degrees from TDC I get carb backfire.

I replaced the fuel pump and it is working. I did gap the spark plugs according to Factory service manual, points was replaced with electric ignition.

Is it manual or automatic?

Try to kick start if it is a manual.

Also, check oil and compression.

backfire from the carb usually means the timing is out at least 180 deg.

Set it to the faint noise one.
Add starting fluid.

Timing is off OP. It is blowing back through the carb because a valve is still open on the intake side.

Would look into the crank pully or however you need to get this timed correctly. Also, when you put the dizzy in, if you line up the marks, the drive gear has a habit of moving (since is is helical gear), which will wreck havoc on your timing.

Would recommend retrying cylinder TDC, then remove and reinsert the dizzy, watching the dizzy lining marks for movement.

It is your timing OP, I am 100% sure of it.

I am afraid there is either not enough compression or the internal engine timing is off. I've tried every tooth of the distributor like I said, which would have solved the issue if it was my dist timing right?

I should have mentioned when I was cleaning out the dead guys shed for auto parts, there was a empty camshaft box in there full of gaskets so I don't know if he changed the cam on this thing or not, and if he did, if it was done correctly.

These have adjustable rockers, is the valve lash set?

I wouldn't know, that's over my head right now.

I've tried this and even just tried again but it just isn't making any kind of firing noises at all, exhaust sound is gone too but it was so faint I couldn't really tell if I was imagining it or not.

Pull off the valve cover.
Take pic.

Have you checked compression on all cylinders? Sounds kinda "dead" on the starter if that makes any sense

I will check compression this weekend I just got a gauge for it recently but wanted to get outside opinions first. I've never dealt with compression issues before, but I was told that the car was driven daily before his carb went bad, and it looked like he was in the middle of upgrading to a 2bbl when he died.

Is there a better way to keep my battery from dying while trying to diagnose this motor? I currently have it on a tender but it's just not charging fast enough for all the cranking I'm having to do.

Rotate distributor 180

Backfire from carb is timing related

A slow crank could cause starting problems.

New user in thread.
Rotate wires 180 on cap.
Timing marks on crank will line up at the top of compresion stroke and at top of exhaust stroke.
Pull the valve cover if you really want to check valve action, but it'll take 2 minutes to rotate wires and try it out.

Rig up two more [good batteries] on parallel with jumper cables. Use tender to charge them all later.

Have a buddy crank it while you rotate the distributor in either direction.
It could still be advanced too far to run, hence the carb spitting a bit.

Watching the video makes me think you have a massive air leak somewhere.
Are all the passages on the bottom of the carb sealed against the spacer?
Timing may be a bit out too, but I'd be willing to bet the engine is sucking air from somewhere other than the carb.

When I was in trade school some kid brought his junk truck in to work on. We did a motor swap and rerouted all the wires. We tried to get it to start up and it made a loud clanking noise when it fired. Turns out we had the distributor so advanced that when the distributor would spark to cylinder one it would fire the piston backwards. Turn your distributor counterclockwise while a buddy of yours turns the key over. Slowly rotate until it fires up.

The more you rotate it that way the closer you get to it being in time. Yours may not be advanced enough to fire the piston backwards, but it could still be out of time.

Especially along the back of the carb.
If you don't have a spacer meant for a 2150 on there is will leak like a sieve and never start unless you hold the pedal down the the floor.

Pic related.
The base gasket alone will not seal this.
The manifold or spacer must completely cover everything.

It's kind of out there as far as a diagnosis goes, but what about valve timing? Sounds like a timing issue, haso anybody been inside that engine before?

Get an actual battery charger.

Slants (rayciss) have trouble firing in moist weather but its good to see you went and bought the car op I remember your thread.
slantsix.org/articles/articles.htm

I do have a spacer for the 2150. I don't believe there is a vacuum leak. At thisbpoint I think I've tried every distrib timing combination so I'm gonna pop the valve cover off and see if I have any valves stuck open from the advice of slantsixdan

cool to see you bought the car

anyway, in this case, i usually get a mechanic to bail me out. I literally had the same problem with backfiring, so i went fuck it and got a mechanic to come out to me and start the car with me

>I don't know if he changed the cam
Do you see a fresh gasket behind the timing chain cover?

Haven't removed it yet since radiator is in the way. While it's possible that the cam could be misaligned I am leaning more heavily towards stuck open intake valves.

I got a compression gauge and am wondering if I can get an accurate reading without the engine running. Can I learn anything about the cylinder compression on a motor that will only crank?

Yes, hook it up to each hole, spin it over a few times and then post the results.

Check the back of the carb and then you will know for sure, instead of assuming.
If the back of the carb hangs off of the spacer at all it will never run and will do just what your engine is doing currently.

I already know that the base is good, I ran into this problem already and corrected it before posting on here asking for help. A guy on ebay sells home made spacers to replace the Carter BBD with Motorcraft 2150's on Jeeps, but since the Valiant uses the same Carter BBD it fits perfectly. Nice spacer, came with some nice gaskets too. You can look him up at "Gronk Performance".

I only had time this morning to do a compression test on the #1 cylinder but it was only about 30 psi. I'm hoping it is just stuck valves and that hopefully I can unstick them with some Marvins Mystery Oil. If not I may just end up selling the car and hopefully turn a small profit but I really want to drive this thing.

You know how to actually check TDC right? If you're just using the marks on the crank pulley to find it, it could be completely off. I seriously doubt it's a stuck valve, but just removing the cover and cranking the engine will tell you if it is or not.

I removed the spark plug and felt for compression on the #1 cylinder with my finger and when it stopped the pully was aligned with tdc on the alignment guide

To do a compression test take all the plugs out not just the cylinder you're testing, and hold the throttle wide open. If not the readings will be low

>He uses Marvins mystery oil.
>Not using Marvels mystery oil.

omg this is lmaolife

How many times did you crank it when you did that compression test?
Have to do more than just one revolution.

At least a few revolutions, it would jump up to 30, lose pressure and jump up to 30 again multiple times. I don't believe it is supposed to lose pressure though. I may try pulling all the plugs and doing it again but I don't think it will help, my next step is to remove the valve cover and try and unstick some potentially stuck open valves. If that doesn't work I am gonna try to sell it for like $800

youtu.be/Q_rVvwNu5QM

here is the movement under the valve cover. everything looks good there so i'm going to test the rest of the cylinder for compression