How can I remove this stripped bolt...

sounds like a good time to acquire a drill, too

Drill that shit out homes.

>harborfreight.com/left-hand-drill-bit-set-13-pc-61686.html
this is good advice, some tiems the left-hand/ reverse drill bits will bite and spin the bolt out.

Weld a half inch drive socket to it and use a breaker bar to twist it off, shit will work pham
Pic related it just werks

This just drill it and retap the hole

Dont waste time fucking with it

Jesus fucking Christ op, did you use a fucking angle grinder to get it off?

Cut a slot into it and just use a screwdriver.

Looks like he got desperate, suprised he didnt try smacking it really hard with a big hammer that always makes me feel good

Am I the only one that's realized OP made it a flathead bolt?

I mean

Is it too simple am I retarded

>stick a T handle screwdriver in
>maybe with a length of pipe sleeved on for leverage
>lefty loosey
> ...

Ah beat me to it fucker

yes, i spent $80 on a dremel kit trying to cut it in half. i read some guide that it should release the tension and i could just pull it out with pliers but it didn't work at all

cant weld

what does "retap the hole" mean

tried already, it doesn't work. when it was put back on, superglue was used as threadlocker so i can't get enough leverage using a standard flathead screwdriver without breaking it

Sounds like a good time for you to learn that you can't do your own brakes as well

>superglue was used as threadlocker

do you like creating problems for yourself or are you just retarded?

That shit isn't even rusty, the fuck were you thinking OP?

can you get a right good swing at it with a hammer?

if you can, try judging what size socket would now fit it, go 2 mm smaller and hammer hammer the smaller socket onto the bolt, you'll need to stop it from twisting or turning , but knock the shite out of it till its seated right down flush, then try undoing it as you would with a socket wrench(ratchet)

>Threadlocker
Apply thermal encouragement to affected area.

>inb4 "i don't have a torch"

OP

Vice grips will do the trick if you have a good pair and a strong hand grip.

Or

Pound a 12pt socket 1 or 2 sizes smaller onto it.

Also, burn the super glue off. Go buy a can of mapp gas.

I stripped a nut on my belt tensioner which was too small for a socket, and a tiny pipe wrench with a pipe over the end worked.

>superglue was used as threadlocker

Fucking what

What in the fuck.

What is that a dirt bike? It's not coming out because its probably locktite'd from the factory.

Heat the ear of the caliper right where that bolt threads into it with mapp gas for a bit, then grip that fucking bolt head with some large straight jaw vice grips, it'll come right out.

Now go fuck yourself.

It's a motorcycle. It isn't loctited from the factory. When I bought it from a private seller, I noticed the rear brake caliper bolts were loose so I screwed them back in with some superglue on them so they wont come loose again. I realize now that this was a mistake.

My main concern is now spending even more money to fix this mistake and end up not even finishing the job. I paid $80 for a dremel, $180 for an impact driver (which is what stripped it in the first place), and $35 for a set of grippy socket heads (which dont even fit), and then another $35 for a socket wrench. nothing works. now i have to spend another $30 for some drill bits and probably $30 for a propane lighter to melt this? some people just weren't meant to be mechanics

>$180 for an impact driver
>$35 for grippy socket heads (which dont even fit)

FOR WHAT PURPOSE

Keep going with the dremel, dickbeat.
Cut the head off.
Remove your shit.
Try a pair of channel locks on the remainder.
Otherwise you gotta drill it out and retap it.

To loosen the bolt...

>some people just weren't meant to be mechanics
You did something incredibly stupid and self defeating, you're gonna be a great mechanic!

FUCK no. If it is seized in there enough that it just stripped off, it's just going to snap the motherfucking extractor and make the job 10x more of a pain in the ass.

>superglue was used as threadlocker

>superglue was used as threadlocker
A hot torch will deactivate it.

Remove wheel, cut head off bolt, undo other bolt. caliper in hand/vise,torch bolt stub red hot, use vicegrips on the stub.

A hot torch to a stick of dynamite shoved down his pants is what OP should do.

>superglue as threadlocker

Oh shit nigger

Threadlocker (Loctite) IS super glue. Cyanoacrylate adhesive to be more precise.

>Threadlocker (Loctite) IS super glue
No it's not.

Negative ghostrider
alcoa.com/fastening_systems_and_rings/commercial/en/resources/data/SDS_Specifications/Loctite 242 Threadlocker Medium Strength.pdf

>threadlocker is super glue

>Threadlocker (Loctite) IS super glue.

Threadlocker (blue 242) is a subtype of adhesive made by Loctite. Loctite also makes super glue, but they are very different things.

When all else fails heat has always worked for me. PB Blaster aND lots of heat. Since you ruined the head I'd say Channel Locks. It's really takes alot of heat though not like 30 secs. In my experience I don't think your going to drill out a large bolt like that with a Dewalt or something. It's just too strong.

LEFT
HANDED
DRILL
BIT

Ok you stupid faggot here's what you do since you're retarded and can't fucking read

>Go to your local weed shop and get a shitty butane blowtorch and a can of 'tane

>Go to the harbor freight and get a fucking one piece t-handle flathead screwdriver

and a piece of cocksucking pipe for leverage, channel locks or some shit you have laying around might work, might not even need it but you're a complete pussy so who's to say

>Fucking heat the shit until hot as fuck

>Repeat the instructions in the post you replied to
>...
>take some fat dabs with your new torch you fuck up

Air chisel?
That's what I used when I had stripped and rusted torx bolts on a suburban.

>superglue.

$180 impact driver? Those things are like $20 at autozone bro.

Buy a mapp can for $10 and use vice grips you dried up, stinky, dick licker!

kek
Take it to a mechanic dickhead. Stop fucking around with the brakes.

Or shove some dynamite up ur ass and sit on it.

Drill and tap means you take a drill bit thats larger than the bolt and you basically millout the entire bolt along with the old threads and make a large hole, then you take a ratchet and crank the tap in the new large hole to make new threads.

>a ratchet and crank the tap in
nonononononono

weld something to it :&)

do you even know how a drill and tap works? Drill hole, rotate the tap in and let it cut its threads.. its a two step process for the average autozone-shopping caveman can perform. I drilled and tapped my bumper support to bolt on an intercooler and its still there.

Listen, dumbass, you don't use a ratchet to crank a tap in. Ask any machinist.

Forgot my pic

That just looks like a ratchet thats held in the knuckles wtf

T-handle ratchet. You never use a conventional ratchet like the one you use to tighten bolts on taps

>like a ratchet thats held in the knuckles
A ratchet doesn't have a chuck, fucknut.

a ratcheting tool with a chuck fuccboi i made no mention of it being a socket tool

Why not? To tighten the bolt, or to turn the tap to make the thread?

>Why not? To tighten the bolt, or to turn the tap to make the thread?
You don't use a conventional ratchet on a tap because it's very easy to run the tap in crooked with it, and that's how you break taps off in stuff. I fix people's workpieces with broken taps in them all of the time, my first question is always "did you use a ratchet to run this tap?"

Drill through it

hmm thank you

should have used vice grips while you still could

vice grips on a rounded bolt is one thing. using on a rounded bolt that needs to be loosens with a breaker bar is another.

Okay op. this happened to me on my stang.
>broke rusty bolt
>drilled it with right handed bit
>broke craftsman tap IN THE BOLT
learn from me. take a LEFT HANDED DRILL BIT. 90% of the time, if it's not rusty as fuck, will take the bolt out no problem.
if that doesn't work get a screw extractor, hammer it in and try to unscrew it. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THE EXTRACTOR THAT IS KEY.

oh and before you do any of this, murder the son of a bitch with some liquid wrench

good luck m8

>Buy large pair of quality vice grips
>Use two pipes to clamp down on the bolt
>Cheater over vice grips

It's as if you've never cut the head off a bolt and then played hell getting the stud out.

oh and don't listen to the dumb shits saying you'll have to retap it. like I said, the left hand drill bit will turn the bolt out without damaging the threads. welding something to it is an option too, but it's more of a last resort option. if the welding doesn't work, THEN you'll have to retap.

Honestly just drive it to a shop and have them weld a nut to it and break it loose for you. You need to get a torch and buy some real threadlocker though.

OP, unbolt the caliper cradle from the hub/spindle/swingarm itself and take the whole thing to a machine shop. You already disconnected the fluid line going to the caliper.

Stop fucking with it, especially if you put super glue on the fucking threads.

Could have vice griped it then used a hammer.

Or tried to use and impact screwdriver with a mini sledge.

Tard