So i broke off one 10mm bolt that holds the water pump to the engine block for my 7th gen accord
How fucked am i? Doesn't look like i can drill it without significant work taking out a bunch of crap off. How much would a shop charge to do this?
Is it even worth doing if my pump is fine?
Pic unrelated since i don't have any car pics
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Have you taken off the water pump yet? If there's still enough of the bolt sticking out you could just get a vice grip to clamp on it and spin it out easily.
I see. So take out the other two bolts and see if the pump comes off just by pulling by hand?
Is there any harm just leaving it like this until i actually need to replace the pump?
>there any harm just leaving it like this
Yes
Why were you fucking with it anyway
Honda V6's are all timing belt, so if you had access to the pump you were doing at timing belt, therefore I assume its a 4cylinder. if you're ULTRA lucky it wont leak, more than likely it will though.
Drill it out (difficult as fuck because transverse mount) and use some type of thread-insert repair (helicoil, timesert, etc etc). Alternatively you can try to chisel it out slowly, or drill part of the bolt partly and try not to bugger up the threads, sounds like its in a tight spot though
contact local machine shop and get a quote, for them to remove/repair the hole in the block as-is where. From there you can gauge whats the most cost effective solution
I was replacing the idle tensioner and mistook that bolt for the one holding the tensioner in place. When i was putting it back i over torqued it because my torque wrench is shit.
Like what can go wrong with that thing in there? Leaks?
The torque specs for the pump bolts are like 9 lb ft that's hand tightened level (im an idiot for even using a torque wrench to put it back). Why would the pump start leaking if one of three bolts broke off expecially when i over torqued the bolt in the first place?
its that exposed bolt I assume? the bolt head is actually what pulls the water pump down, without that bolt head the remaining stud isn't doing jack shit
good news for you though, it bolts to a water pump/thermostat housing. if you have to, unbolt that and take it to a machine shop. Or take it off and fix the bolt-hole where you can put your work piece in a vise type deal
The broken bolt is actually the one behind the pully out of frame if that matters
But thanks for the info regardless.
Worst case i take off the esembly assuming thats a 4 cylinder
Assume you get to those bottom bolts that hold that assembly in by taking off the alternator?
*tensioner pully out of frame
If its the top bolt (pic related) then you've gotta do a proper fix. Take the alternator off, disconnect all your coolant related goodies and take the whole plate off. Might be easier with the intake off, but that's a pain on K series because of that fucking lower support bracket
Price it out at a machine shop, might be cheaper to get a whole assy used from a wreckers. Or helicoil/timesert/ezlok etc etc
also, theres probably a gasket between the block itself and that waterpump/thermostat housing so I'd look into getting that aswell
I like using hondapartsnow.com
pic unrelated
Looking through a repair manual it says i need to take out the water pump to take out the assembly. That seems extra precautionary doesnt it?
you'd want to have the waterpump off when you're trying to fix a broken bolt.
also its a 10 year old (minimum) water pump, you're probably going to want to replace it. get some torque specs and a (good) torque wrench for re-assembly
Will i even be able to get the pump off depending on the threading that's left or will i just be able to pull it off?
Also what's a good torque wrench for low torque bolts
Is the bolt spinning in the housing or did the bolt head snap off? That's USUALLY how bolts fail
Former mechanic here, I've got a 3/8ths snappy torque wrench lol. I know HF sells torque wrenches for like 10 bucks, you get what you pay for, goes both ways
I did the same thing on my corolla. Luckily the bolt hole in the water pump was smooth and not threaded. I was able to remove the other bolts and slide the water pump out. Then I removed the broken bolt with some pliers.
The broken off piece has got the head and some threads. The break point is like 1/3 down from the head
You'll beable to remove the water pump. If you're lucky you can vice grip and remove the old "stud" from the water pump housing without any major dissassembly
my face when normies think doing drywall makes them hardcore diy'ers
fucking lol
Is this because what is left of the bolt is basically loose in the hole? Is this why the head with some threads on it still spun out despite turning clockwise?
when u tighten aluminum shit like that dont use a torque wrench, just hand tighten it.
and like other people said, if there's enough to grab onto, file it square and vice grip it.
if not you'll have to use an extractor.
kill yourself
>no close toed shoes
>no saftey glasses
>no pants
>no optional gloves
Fuckers aint ready to do any kind of work
>muh safety
lol r u a queer?
Yes
By all means let's take a shortcut at this point and try for something worse than a snapped stuff in a housing. Shit OP just slap some jb weld in there you'll be fine.
>nu-male and its feminist leader
What are you even talking about? Do you know how a bolt works?
The part that the bolt holds on has thru holes, not threaded. The bolt threads into the block.
So right now the bolt has no head so it's not providing any clamping force to the block at the location of that bolt.
If you remove the other bolts you can remove the part and then what's left of the broken bolt will be sticking out of the block. You can file that to a square shape and use vice grips to break it loose from the threads and just spin it out
>What are you even talking about? Do you know how a bolt works?
You realize you're on Veeky Forums, right?