Want old truck

>want old truck
>want new crate engine
>500hp
>TH auto trans w/ a shift kit
>capable of running 12's on slicks
>fun in dirt/sand/snow with boggers
>k/c lights and mudflaps for the hype
>Bed bars and net tailgate
>under $20k

can it be done br/o/s?

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summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp4001ctc1/overview/make/chevrolet
summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp35513ctf1/overview/make/chevrolet
summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3961ctf/overview/make/chevrolet
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

The engine and trans alone would be close to like 9 or 10k. Maybe more. To have it installed might be another few grand. A good base could be 5k out maybe a little more. It is possible but I doubt it's going to come in under budget

Can be done, probably the cheapest way would be buy some boomers finished project

This. You might want to narrow its role down to come in under budget.

>under $20k

>You're going to have to do mostly your own work to stay in that budget

Those home/garage builds you see on lenos garage are dudes working on their cars for years and keeping the budget low....

yea there's a fat autoshop at my school and the kids are always looking to wrench on actual performance oriented cars

My brother did the same thing, took auto shop, got involved with cars for a while, but completely lost it and got a shit job...

it's very possible if most your major parts are junk yard parts

this

plus this

equals this. for less than $5k

This is now a build thread. What're you planning on building in the future? Let's keep it somewhat realistic.

this is what I'd like to do if I ever find myself with a white collar job, a commute and $40k to spare, instead of buying a 328i or base mercedes like most would do

>71 mach 1
>stripped, cleaned completely
>Ford 427ci crate engine (525hp!)
>Built suspension
>Fat wheels/tires all around, nothing modern
> /comfy/ interior with good speakers

took the class last year. I can see the hype in changing your own oil and wrenching, but why the FUCK would anyone ever want to be a mechanic? How could doing minor maintenance on other peoples cars possibly be enjoyable for anyone?

Decent pay for relatively simple work that generally allows you to set your own pace and be your own boss to an extent. It's a great job if you actually like cars.

I actually like cars, but I like the raw mechanical aspect of them and driving them. I know the maintenance is inherent to the mechanical aspect but I can't be bothered to do the numb stuff like balancing wheels and surfacing brake pads, ESPECIALLY on cars that aren't my own. I do enjoy engines and wiring and timing I suppose.

Where I work balancing is usually done by techs on a rotating shift. It's largely automated. No on does that as their full time position. Most shops won't even resurface brake pads, i've never heard of one that did, they'll just replace them. It's a liability to refurbish something that important rather than replace it. Every job is going to have aspects you won't like anyways, I just listen to music or have the news on in the background when I'm doing otherwise mundane things at work.

6.0?

What year you calling old OP? 67-72 is going to be more rusted and cost more for a better example truck, while 73-80 squarebodies with round headlights or the 81-87 squares can be had fairly cheaply in little rust/rust free shape depending on your area and market, check local groups.


kitkat pls

OP, lookit here, you're gonna be pushing your budget or having to cut back severely, but fear not.


>smallblock 400 460 HP
>carbed
>$5700

summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp4001ctc1/overview/make/chevrolet

>smallblock 355 390HP
>fuel injected
>$5200

summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp35513ctf1/overview/make/chevrolet

>smallblock 396 485HP
>fuel injected
>$7100

summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3961ctf/overview/make/chevrolet


Water pump, balancer, alternator, power steering pump, radiator, all new hoses and vacuum lines etc, few hundred bucks, electric fan a couple hundred bucks or use an original mechanical fan.

Full exhaust kit for one of the 73-87 trucks runs ~$500-600 for headers, mufflers and exhaust pipes plus hangers from someone like Hooker.

You can get a brand-new 650hp rated 700r4 trans with all things needed for around $2000, if you want overdrive for slightly better mileage, or, go with a th350/th350c or th400 for slightly cheaper. If you have it, $2000-3000 buys you a gear venders overdrive unit that bolts to the back of the trans, just needs a shortened driveshaft, for muh mileage.


Keep in mind putting any kind of real power into these you may need to rebuild and also re-gear your rear axle, which can run $1500-3000 depending on a lot of factors.

Ayyy, I wish I had an LS.


>this rustbucket

>plus this and a big wallet

>equals this

Mediocrity all around, but it's reliable, everythings new and it runs like a top.

great another truck cuck thread

Roughly 16k. Roller big block. Bought most all parts. Paid for build motor and trans. Big boy lego set bolt parts on. Have painted.

Lmc cucks keep the lights on cause of me.

Can be done with careful shoping.

Quality used pants off internet is gud.

>nothing modern
>comfy.

Better put air bags on it faggot or u just spend 40 grand on a fucking 1971 bouncehouse

where does this hose go?

>trusting autoshop kiddies with a fucking 10 grand engine

Jesus dude. I took those classes too and everyone was a fucking retard. I wouldn't take my shitbox in there for an oil change.

Holy shit that's a lot of research and very well done. I've looked into modifying muh ranger trucc with a few chevy parts and maybe just starting with a turbo to get a few more mpgs and horsies but it's pretty dan difficult even with the small space.
i'd love to fit a ramjet 302 in muh ranger but compatbility parts would require a welder to essentially work full time for a week in order to special make certain fittings and nipples for me.

doing this in a chevrolet would be much easier. if OP has the time to do it, he could be a champ with a $12 000 Ramjet engine full sized trucc dragster. now that'd be something i'd want to see.

but obviously, for under $20 000, junkyard parts, what you recommended with that amount of research, and an old frame should keep it below $17 000 and which allows for $3000 leeway in order to better fit into his budget.

>Buy $2,000 truck
>Buy $15,000 crate engine and trans
Easy peasy

I don't think you've ever done a swap and connexions before.....!!!

so you want this?

for that price you are going to have to build your own motor.

Chevy 350 small block (junkyard)
Worked over vortec heads(local machine shop)
re-manufactured summit 600 cfm carb.
HEI ignition, also from summit.
Edelbrock performer intake manifold.
Lunati voodo cam 250/256
flat top pistons.
make sure the gap between the top of the pistons and the bottom of the cylinder head is about .04-.035.
1 5/8 long tube headers (mids and shorties work fine too, but the longtubes are best)
depending on tire size (30-33 inches) 3.55 gears and a converter that stalls around 1800-2000 rpm would be ideal.
The truck will have all the power it needs to crawl, tow, ect. get decent mpg, and do 4 wheel burnouts.

Why get a crate motor OP?
Just get a 4 bolt main SBC or BBC and build it, it will be cheaper than a crate motor and leave you cash to set up other parts of the truck for the times you want. I think it is doable but you'll have to shop deals to get under $20k

Fast trucks are a good way to break shit so you really need to overbuild. Traction + weight = stress on the drivetrain. That said, my boss has a 4wd chevy with a 600hp crate motor in it which can do 12s on street tires because muh 4wd. It's not suitable for boggers though.

What this guy sez. 12 second bogger is easy over 20 grand. You would be better off buying two cheap trucks, dumping the crate motor in the 2 wd and having a second truck for bogging.

I'm building a similar project

>94 chevy 1500 stepside
>2wd
>junkyard 454 bored 30 over
>edlebrock cam
>edlebrock intake
>machined heads
>5 speed

it should be interesting to see how it works out, ill need to throw a nice clutch in it and beef the rear end up but it'll be fun.

I don't think you've ever seen a carburetor before

You can run an engine with three simple wires and if you stick a high HP version of the factory motor it's literally drop in. Bolt up and go

Fuel vapor canister

See above, it's really not hard to get power on a budget out of a crate motor, OP probably isn't capable of building his own motor especially a high power one. It's far easier to buy a crate and install than it is to correctly assemble an engine.


OP powers easy on these trucks, it's all the suspension that'll kick your wallets ass anyways.
>$~5k rust free truck, best if no engine and already has body work and interior/suspension done
>$4-6k crate motor @380-500hp
>built trans of choice $1500-2100
>~$1200-2000 on rear end depending how extreme you go
>~$2000-4000 in misc shit like exhaust suspension parts, hardware etc

That's 18000 max right there and can easily be under budget by far, you could even venture into cammed ls/4l80e territory if you search around local groups and pages for this kind of money.


There's no reason to build your own engine if youve never done it, aren't competent enough for it and most importantly lack the proper tools to make sure gaps torque specs and everything is correct.
>hurrrdurrr arguements

Look how many Joe blows have swapped vehicles, especially the old chevy trucks, while it may not be original who gives a fuck, not everyone's searching for snowflake, some just want something in particular and budget/skill levels/time usually heavily influence these things.
>inb4 $500 and half an hour ls memes
Swaps always, always cost more than planned. See above, there's allotted room in pricing for things aa you can junkyard parts here and there, used shit off groups or grab things on sale.

Modern suspension with period correct sized tires and 70's muscle wheels

yes please gib

can't tell if you are making a joke at my expense or saying it's possible

Get something with cheap and plentiful parts. I'm restomodding and old Jeep MJ right now for my truck project, and the fact XJ front end parts bolt right the hell on is literally saving the project from not happening.

If you set aside 10k for the drivetrain and find the best possible sub-$2.5k example possible, or even an empty she'll for a few hundred, you could stay well under $20k. Possibly even far enough for paint.

Good luck, I'd love to build up the straight six for FI and tune/cam it for a cheap track/rally build.

Why build the 4.0 when you can just swap a 318 in?

TFW driving my 67 C10 down a gravel road with a lip in

>Tfw driving in farm country in my 65 ford with a cigar and Hank jr on the stereo

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Ole' Rusty