Thinking about picking up an 87 mustang with no engine or transmission...

roller block 351's are cheap
302's are even cheaper
4v 4.6's shoehorn in there
Pick your poison

I'd rather have a bubble back capri

Careful of that rust! "Rustang" is not just a meme.
For a 4cyl conversion roller with bad paint I would do 600 honestly.

I'll show you what I mean by rust. Nothing really towards the bottom of the car as far as I can tell. just some spots on the hatch and such. I think this might be the only/worst spot

Check out the K member real good, they love to rot out, as do the strut towers

dear god thats rotten to fuck let it go

it's just that one spot though...

I 'll have to wait till I go to look at the car in more detail. I am getting the last bit of money together

Don't do a 302, do a 351w

No its not.

God knows how bad the chassis is

What are the best donor cars for the 351w?

I think the old F250s or F150s have them?

get one from a 90's f250

mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/1407-how-to-push-a-junkyard-351-windsor-past-1000-hp/

94+ f150/250/350 ect..

>1200
>for a shell

Bruh, I got my old IROC Camaro for 700, running and driving

Well its GM, no one wants it

Allllrrriigghhhttt. Looks like I'm gonna offer him $700 or $800...then a 351 or 302?

>and it blew up
oh wow what a shit build they even dremeled the piston tops wtf

Get it and put a 454 in it with a turbo400 or 4l80e. Then get a tag that says BBCFOX so everybody knows its Chevy powered.

well it was a stock rotating assembly that hold up to 1000-900, it was going to blow

>wanting to put a BBC inside your car

why are GM fangirls such cucks, do you also put BBC's inside ur wife/gf??

Too much for a roller.

I know a guy who did that with a 427. He didn't realize what it said until his mom drove it to town. That's been 10 years now and we still haven't let him live it down.

>GM fags will watch as their mum rides around a 427 inch BBC in front of everybody

...

You need to check the shock towers for rust, that can be a huge pain.

As for engines, a 302 will probably be the simplest, cheapest swap for you. Since you have the chance, get a 351w (or 351 cleveland) while you can, if money permits.

And if it was me, I'd take the 4v mod motor. 96-98 cobra, 01 cobra, 03-04 Mach, and some lincolns, mark 8 and continental have an alum block. The 99 cobra, and 03-04 cobra have iron. A lot stronger, but you probably aren't looking to handle over 1000whp anyways. Also, they make a big bore boss block(makes 5.0L on the stock stroke, 3.55, after being honed and sleeved) for modular, and alum crate blocks as well. MMR sells full 4340 crank/rods/any compression pistons for about 1900. The big bore boss block (mod) is like 1200. 03 Cobra heads are good for s/c, and flow well in general, but even a 96 cobra head could be made to rev and make crazy power, there's an article on this with john mihovetz talking about all modular 4v heads.

I'll warn you though, first off, the heads look HUGE. Because there are two cams on top of each one. I'm talking the width of a cinderblock, and they stick way out. To fit this in a fox, it might take some serious clearancing, but others have fit the coyote 5.0 successfully.

Second, just to pull the heads and set timing mean unbolting 4 cams, and it's like putting 2 DOHC 4 cylinder motors in time together. But you shouldn't have to do this much at all. More hassle than a pushrod small block ford/chevy/mopar. However, ported 03 cobra heads can flow 350cfm on the intake port at .500 lift, the equivalent to a c6 z06 7.0l head ported. But I would recommend it, these mod motors are reliable as hell, and just keep chugging, whether you are giving it hell everyday, or making 700-900 hp. It can literally go WAY over 100,000 miles AT THIS POWER LEVEL. I own some good examples myself. Not to rag on the LS either, from personal experience they will go super high mileage as well.

Cont.

Also, I wouldn't overlook going N/A. It certainly wouldn't be as light as any regular aluminum small block, but its nice to know you've got something that feels bulletproof for a street car. Boost is definitely the answer for 500-1???WHP, but consider this. A bolt on mach 1 or 01 cobra will make 320+whp, this is full exhaust, headers, cai, maybe tb/intake manifold. Add cams to the mach 1, you're looking at 380whp. Maybe close to 400 with a perfect setup and ported heads. Not bad for a 4.6 with untouched compression and displacement. Add in the fact that they can handle some stroke if you aren't pushing crazy power, and things like a big bore block, I don't see why you couldn't set one up to make 450rwhp on pump gas, or more. There's a forum for N/A mod motors, you would be surprised by the numbers. Tons of people at 550-600whp, albeit the 600s use race gas.

And lastly, you're gonna need a good trans, this can cost almost 3 grand. Cooling, ECU harnesses, vacuum stuff, brake booster and lines, might need springs, new shocks, sways, you name it. This will almost certainly cost you close to 10k or more. Could be halved if you do as much as possible yourself.

Good Luck

You are the best haha. Thank you for your help. Modular or 302 does sound like the way to go but modular is much cooler to me. Current car has a 2 valve modular so I'm a little familiar.
I have some questions if you have time to answer!

Drop in the Saab 2.3 turbo.
You can get bellhousings that will mate it to a T5

But the cost of Foxes is skyrocketing now.

I would say throw it a stock 302 HO. figure out if you like the car, then build a 351 and put that on.

Good point actually, I drove a co-workers mostly stock 5.0 and loved it. It felt like a good starting place for power and all. I'm just starting to love the idea of a modular in it...

Why? 2v modulars are gutless wonders, and 4v's are expensive as fuck to build.

OP you are a stupid faggot for even considering this literal piece of shit.

>404
Fucking Georgians, I knu whut I gut

It's starting to look like that, huh? Haha. It's a young guy though so no boomers involved

E series vans got them until '95 too.

before you buy look for body wise 3 key things
>strut tower/subframe rot right above the k member mounting point
>it still has something resembling floor pans
>torque box condition( ripped or rusty)
stick with a 302 for cost/simplicity and run a tried/true hci setup

Later 1uz's make 290hp/300tq with only 4L of displacement, not bad for the time at all. I would love to see a built or twin turbo'd 1UZ my man

I would too. It'd be one of a kind as far as i know. I think one guy tried but never finished because of wiring. So it'd be pretty sweet. Sadly the aftermarket for the 1uz isnt really there and theres no guide on the swap so id be mostly lost. I'd love that smooth V8 though....

Dont get a roller 351 the tend to all be cracked under the cam bearings get the 83-91 blocks

Well guys...I'm doing it. $800 and he's paying to get it towed to the house. 351 is what i'm looking at

Good luck man. I would join the Fast Foxbodys group on facebook to show off your new car and ask for advice, those guys really helped me out with my build.

Thank you! I was hoping some one would post something like this! What did you build?

Also spent some time on corral, lots of good deal to be had.

Keep your eyes open for a nice roller block 351, I paid $200 for one and it came with a free F250.

If you're gonna get a roller get a v8 one. The 4 bangers didn't have an lsd.

It already has the 8.8 rear end, aluminum drive shaft, and sub frame connectors. It previously had a 302 in it.

Do you know the differences in the 351s? What's a roller block? Like roller cam and lifters?

Coyote

F4TE are roller blocks

Sounds like you need to do some reading.

>cracked
351 roller confirmed for shit