Anybody know anything about head porting? Any tips? This is my first port job (1994 miata). I'm using a sanding bit on my dremel
Also holy shit the casting is terrible
Also what grit should I finish the ports with? Was thinking 200 grit on the intake side and 400 for exhaust. Planning on polishing the combustion chamber too with high grit + wd40
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Oh shit nigger
Is that the intake?
Dont polish an intake you fart sniffer
>Porting the walls of the runners is time consuming and offers almost no flow improvements.
superchevy.com
You should stop and figure out what you're going to do first.
It's not polished and I don't plan on polishing it
Ok what about port/gasket matching?
Here's another one
I'm aware it's probably going to do nothing, I'm just doing it because I have the head off because I'm doing a the head gasket
Bump
port/gasket matching is good but look into what you can port farther down. if you only widen the outside you will set it up to make power at the upper end of your rpms.
Grinding on the intake wont do anything other than make you get poor mpg with no gain.
take the valves out
Yeah I should do that huh. I don't have the tool
Best gains will be from blending in the machining marks made when the valve seat was fitted and the seat angles were cut.
Thanks man
>hey guyz, i hav no idea wot im doin LOL plz help me PORT MY FUCKING CYLINDER HEAD
jesus fuck
just put it back, user
Ok here's the story
My friend doesn't really know what hes doing and he had me over today and showed me his port job. Just trying to figure out how to salvage this basically.
You can't. You'll only fuck it up more messing with it. Put it back as is and pray the fucking thing still works.
>still works
ok this is how I know you don't know what you're talking about
Tfw you port matched your 302. Put a bigger cam in it. Get a bigger carb. Then gain 100hp.
I wish cars were that simple still. But l did grab 1500 extra rpm so hp was easy.
Its best to start with a fully disassembled head...
Google pocket port.
???
Profit
port matching didnt give that kind of increase. The Cam/carb combo did.
Oh l know. Its just. Life was simpler back then. The only reason lve actually kept the car. Old single cam cars are so easy to fuck with.
I know the mustang has gained 3 cams and 210hp since the fox, but l sure do miss opening my engine bay and honestly knowing what l could do and never risk a code or limp mode.
>swaping cams
>complicated
OH NO THERES TWO CAMS
I CANT DEAL WITH TWO.
MY BLEEDING ANUS.
yeah nah fuck off cunt. Swapping in a bigger cam is not hard even on a post 2k engine.
So long as you buy the right ohm and diameter injectors swapping those is not hard but most of the time you dont even need to do that just throw the car on a dyno and get the ECU tuned, WHICH IS A MILLION TIMES EASIER THAN JETTING A CARB.
Especially if youre running more than one carb, holy fuck.
>WHICH IS A MILLION TIMES EASIER THAN JETTING A CARB
Not really, especially if you have a wideband. EFI is pretty easy, but costs a lot of money. A new high performance intake and a used carb with a rebuild kit will net you as much horsepower as port fuel injection can at the top end
The big benefit to EFI is everything under the curve and cold starts
Disassemble the head. By leaving it together you open up the chance for metal shavings to become lodged in the head. These can cause damage once reinstalled.
Since you don't know what your doing regarding match a port job so a set of cams, springs and valves etc. And your probably keeping the motor stock I'd recommended just port matching the intake manifold and cylinder head to the gasket. It will give slightly better flow and work well with the factory camshafts.
A spring compressor tool can be had for $20 off of eBay. Make sure you get the one meant for overhead cams, not over head valves.