I dont know much abt car audio, i have two 600 rms subs im putting in...

I dont know much abt car audio, i have two 600 rms subs im putting in, can i get away with powering them with a 700 - 1000 watt amp? will they still bang or would they be really quiet?

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What subs?

this. brand matters.

I had two JL W3 10s and a 1000 watt Pioneer amp... shit used to shake my jeep.

What brands for the subs and amp?

Yeah, but in your scenario that amp was putting out 400w into two W3s which are rated at 350w RMS, going over RMS is better than underpowering which can fry voicecoils

If you bought two 600 rms subs, why would you buy an amp that cant do 1200 rms? The subs will still work with an underpowered amp, but you'd be better off just saving up a few more bucks and getting one that can do 1200 or more.

Underpowering a speaker isnt going to damage it unless youre a retard and make up for the lack of power by cranking up your gain or bass boost. If you set your gain right its fine.

i got two soundqubed hds 210's and im choosing between a rockford fosgate 1200 watt amp or a hifonics 1200 watt amp (but the hifonics amp wont actually do what it says it will, its'll be like 700 - 1000). i was considering getting the hifonics one cus its cheaper and i dont care about being super loud yet, would it still be good bass?

>implying that most who install subs and amps in their cars aren't retarded teenagers trying to impress and going about it the wrong way

Ive always liked hifonics amps for budget builds. Find yourself the proper box build and 2 10s will be pretty fuckin loud.

>Rockford or Hifonics
Have you.considered broadening your horizons?

sonicelectronix.com/item_40252_NVX-JAD1200.1.html

i'd be getting the rockford for $150 on craigslist

Then get the Rockford, Hifonics are good amps as I've had an old Zeus Z600 and Brutus 1200, most recently a MB Quart 1500 which is basically Hifonics eversince Maxxsonics bought out MB Quart and they've always worked great, but if I could get a 1200W Rockford I would jump at it

>i'm giving shit advice because i presume everyone is retarded
nah you just don't know what you're on about

I was agreeing with you dipshit, and I was saying the majority of idiots who would ask OPs question are the types to fry their VCs by cranking up the gain and BB through the head, learn to fucking read mate

The amp doesn't much matter. Even a 1,000 watt amp, when listening at a reasonable volume, doesn't use much more than a few watts.

The main thing you have to know when designing a proper subwoofer system is the Thiele Small Parameters of the speaker in question. You can't put a random speaker in a random box and expect it to perform well. You might luck out, but probably not.

You take the Thiele Small Parameters, use either a pen and paper with the right formulas, or you can use a program like WinISD to do the math for you, then design an appropriate box for the given speaker.

One last thing to consider: your charging system. Depending on how big your alternator is, totally limits your amplifier choices. The average car uses 60 amps of current just running down the road. If you only have a 90 amp alternator, you'll be limited to a maximum of about 300 watts total amplifier power before your headlights start dimming.

fuck off cunt who the fuck do you think you are talking like that to me.
say that to my face and i'll fucking wreck ya

You taking the piss la? I will hook you in the gabber m8, swear on me mum

Only things that are going to fry a coil are overpower or massivedistortion

no apparently you need to listen to music at full chat all the time or your speakers will blow
i read it on Veeky Forums so it must be true

keep in mind that watts RMS is the average power those will be pushing (so around 1200 watts RMS) BUT you need to keep in mind that these things will hit a peak power output of 2400 watts total so really you need somthing AT LEAST close to 2400 watts on your amplifyer otherwise you will risk blowing your amp

honestly you should have went with 2 (two) 250-300 watt RMS speakers in an enclosed box and that would have given you the sound and power output but also the tight sharp consise bass hits like in techno

t. electrican, electronic technician, speaker specialist, electrical wizard

>t. Leased an automatic tC

Mfw I'm and some dipshit makes some faggot think I'm a dipshit

>implying those same retards wouldnt fuck shit up anyways if they had an amp with ample amps

Shits gonna bust no matter what if you get stupid with the gain.

Oh look, Inu's being retarded again.

>will they still bang
It has been shown that for a given amount of power that the same speaker, when mounted in a properly made enclosure sized for that speaker, will have more apparent "bang" than from a random enclosure not designed to work with that speaker. So yes, you can compensate by shoving more power into really high powered speakers to get "bang". Or a small system with much less power can still have the same "bang" provided that the speaker works with that enclosure.

>rockford fosgate 1200 watt amp or a hifonics 1200 watt amp
If those are Class D amps, you will most likely have to get a HO alternator. Your cars electrical system cannot handle that type of power draw.

my truck just had a new alternator put in but idk its specifics

But Class D amps are more efficient.....

I would find out how many amps your alternator is. A 1200 watt amp is a fucking monster. No capacitors or extra battery is going to supply the power needed to run that thing.
I say class D amp because they have the biggest power draw. You're not going to find a 1200 watt stereo amp.

>Class D
>biggest current draw
>not Class AB

Fucking kids, I swear

yeah, you'll just be 200 RMS off. And if you got Soundqubed subs then you'll probably be more like 400-500 RMS off.

>he buys $1000 subs that can barely beat a $200 Dayton audio sub

car audio has a huge premium for some reason even if it's not that good

Soundqubed is better than Dayton... I also dare you to find ANY Dayton sub that is anything like the HDC 4.0.

...

the cerwin vega stroker would shit all over that

Muh nigga

Have you ever fucked with old school strokers? Absolutely incredible.

which one? The 90's one, 2007 one or the new one that's already discontinued?

The 90's Striker would be absolutely obliterated by the HDC 4.0. 2007 stroker was cool looking and did decent wattage but was unreliable, probably lose to the HDC 4.0. The 2014 Stroker would eat the HDC 4.0 alive most likely.

Here is the old school Stroker.
It's pretty pathetic compared to the majority of serious subwoofers today. Looks like an 800 watt woofer, maybe a grand but I really doubt that.

Now here is the beast which is the HDC 4.0 in 15 form just like the Stroker. The HDC would absolutely annihilate the sorry Stroker. No competition.

And here's the 2014 Stroker hyper woofer.

Pretty intense... I want one very, very badly.