As the title says
Dubs decide if I get Tetanus
THINGS DONE:
>Battery
Old one was kill, so bought a new one and almost hooked it up backwards. Car will now start under its own power.
>Intake
Opened it up and found the remnants of a squirrel's abode, evicted his sorry ass.
>Suspected problems
Vacuum leak
Dirty throttle body
IAC valve
Magic compootr stuff
...
make sure you use oem parts. hondaautomotiveparts.com is your friend.
So, a trip to the junkyard yielded a good filter box, and had a rubber seal that mine was missing. Got it all installed, and no difference, vacuum leak is not the problem.
The EGR valve is beginning to come to my attention, however I don't have the tools or experience to fiddle with it. I just might have to take this thing into a shop.
What's the problem?
It's not idling well?
You've listed suspected faults but haven't actually told us what's wrong.
EGR is easy to replace, and in a car that old, you can probably deleted it.
Remove the valve, and blast it with brake clean. get some pipe cleaner brush inside where ever its attached to, and clean the crud off inside.
get some seafoam, and with someone holding the accelerator down a bit to around 2k rpm, suck up half a bottle through a vacuum line. turn off the car, let it sit for 15 minutes, start it back up, and go for a very aggressive drive until the white smoke stops
I had an EM2, what issues are you having with it?
also, those cars had issues with this little brown electrical conductor box thingy that;s like $50. I forgot what its called, but its dab in the middle of the fuse box. caused all sorts of issues for me, and a friend who had an 03
What year is it? My 01 doesn't have egr.
There's no vacuum on the filter box.
There's only vacuum in the intake manifold, behind the throttle plate.
Fog it and see if any smoke comes out.
I haven't, can't believe I forgot.
When you start the car, it begins what I call 'part 1'.
The car starts normally, all gauges work, and the car will start idling at 1k rpm. It will climb to 2k rpm, then the CEL will flash for a split second, and the RPM will drop to 1k, and repeat this for a few minutes. The car will go through the rev range fine in this part, no sputter or hesitation.
After that, 'part 2' begins.
The tach drops to 0, and the idle goes steady. The engine will heavily sputter when revving in this part.
For context, the air resonator is not on the car, and there is an exhaust leak just after the manifold.
If it doesn't have an EGR, that will make my life easier.
why the fuck are you posting this thread.
do not post this thread again until you've done at least 4 hours worth of work on your car.
You know what, you're right user. You are so much smarter and better then me, I'm gonna go do what ever you say.
I'll check that now
The circled part is the egr valve.
Do you have code reader? Might check for stored codes.
No code reader, everything's been done from suspected issues. Need to get one soon, though.
You can use a fog machine, vape (lel) or a cigar to check for leaks.
see
>Honda civic
>not coming with a vape
It comes free with every $3k deposit.
I've been watching some more Scotty Kilmore to diagnose the car' issues.
>egr
kys diesel fag
I wouldn't buy any parts or spend a lot of time diagnosing before I checked the codes. If you have an android phone you can get the bafx bluetooth obd2 adapter from amazon and torque for around 30 bucks. You can view live data too.
this isnt wordpress you redditor. get a fucking service manual and fuck off.
come back and post update pictures once you actually done a weekends worth of work.
this is like the third time in 2 days you've posted about changing a battery
t. busrider
>diesel
user, it's a Civic.
Think about it for a minute.
2nd time, and I've never actually posted the battery being changed.
No phone lol, only an iPad. I'll get that code checker and find out how badly I really fucked up.
petrol engine have an egr valve too dumbass
Don't kill yourself, user. I saw your post in the other thread.
Okey dokey