What are some car tools and brands that Veeky Forums recommends?

ive been using craftsman tools for years. ive only ever had 1 problem with a torque wrench.

snap on is good stuff but way to expensive for me.

how do you like the composite?

It's nice, I can't complain about it.

The locking drive didn't work on the first one I bought, but I just traded it for another.

Biltema
It's cheap and they work good

I've been using this craftsmen set for years now, I absolutely love it. Brought two motorcycles and two cars back from the dead.

Also bought this Makita 18v electric impact for cheap, this thing is a monster.

Can anyone recommend a good budget torque wrench?

Craftsman beam style. Downside is it doesn't work well in Co fined spaces, but I think it is o ly like $20.

One tool to rule them all

Heres a list of quality tools, you ready? (No specific order)
> Matco
> Mac
> Cornwell
> Craftsman
> Snap-on
> Gearwrench

>beam style
We aren't in the 20th century anymore boomer. We use click type in 2017

Low-good budget is husky or crafts man.
Higher than that is precision instruments (have one at work)
Higher than that is snap on and mac

Craftsman is really all you need but snap on is better but a lot more

Click type is less accurate, loses accuracy over time has to be reset every time you use it.

But it's the CURRENT YEAR

>less accurate
And a beam isn't?
>loses accuracy over time
All torque wrenches do that. That's why you RE calibrate them.
>has to be reset everytime you use It
Okay you really don't know what you're talking about.

lol

>And a beam isn't?
> Beam type torque wrench is less accurate than a beam type torque wrench.
> I can't into grammar.

>Okay you really don't know what you're talking about.
Like any micrometer, you have zero it out to maintain accuracy, most morons buying them off the shell won't do that.

Hey for someone who's just doing weekend shit on their own car HF is fine. My home set is all HF and Craftsman (mostly HF) and nothing's gone wrong yet. Not to mention you'll never have to worry about getting a replacement for a broken tool because the store is right there.
Meanwhile I'm STILL waiting on a new T30 socket from Mac that I handed in over a month ago.

Pittsburgh, Chicago electric, us general, etc.

Hey mate i have a question regarding my gf8 wrx, its throwing error code 23 for the maf, i tried a new maf same thing, stripped back some of the loom and found a very butcherd job, one of the wires for the maf is like an old tv aerial wire ie a wire which is insulatrd covered by another wire which is insulated, can i replace that wire with any old wire or do i need a "special" wire, i can take pics if you need me too, any help greatly appreciated

>beam type torque wrench is less accurate then a beam type torque wrench
Autism award goes to you for thinking I fucked up when I didn't.

>you have to zero them out to maintain accuracy
I don't know about other people but I sure as fuck don't forget to zero my micrometers

Take some pictures kiwifag
The code stayed after replacing the maf or did it reappear after replacement?

Sorry for late reply had to switch fones, it appeared immediately i had the batter disconected for over a week and.as soon as i started it the cel came on, rough idle and couldnt rev

This is the butchery from the previous owner, i just want my turbo back it was my daily until it fucked out and now the clutch on my skyline.needs replacing and im broke for the next week

Holy fuck. That would seriously piss me off.
Honestly I would try to replace the wire harness that the maf is attached too.
>fucking electrical tape
I'll never understand why people purposely choose to fuck with electrical wires. Like why? Leave that shit alone.

If possible go to a junk yard. I know you are in a different country because in the us we don't have gf8 wrxs
Maybe try to replace the whole mad assembly I wouldn't try to replace just that one wire because it might be a pain in the Ass more than just doing the whole thing

I would take a millimeter to it to see if your getting resistance and if it's getting power to it.
You might have to chase electrical gremlins

Its pretty hard to find the right loom i was going to rewire all 4 wires for the maf, i just dont know if i need the same type of wire, as only the centre wire is used in the pic for the maf, and im broke af so i dont mind butchering it some more but properly lol i just need the damn car working, subaru nz quoted me a minimum of 1k upto 3k to repair/replace the wires, i bought the car for 2700 and it ran fine for 15 months

Yea my mate was gona come round tomorrow and give me a hand if hes free, hes more electrically minded then me and has a multimeter and some wiring i can use

>Honestly I would try to replace the wire harness that the maf is attached to.
Seconding. See if you can't find a parts car and cut off the MAF pigtail all the way back to where in runs into the main loom then splice it onto the original wiring on your car.
When splicing, there are two ways I'd go about it:
Option 1: Solder the wires together
Option 2. Crimp the wires together with un-insulated butt connectors
In both cases you'll want to cover the joints with heat shrink for waterproofing.
Soldering is the best option but is more time-consuming and requires tools and consumables that you may or may not have. It's also possible to fuck it up.
Butt connectors are quick, easy, and almost impossible to fuck up.

> i just dont know if i need the same type of wire
It's just bulk copper wire, dude. Just buy wire in the same gauge from any parts store and it'll work fine.

Ikkje i Noreg

How do i replace this wire though? Only the cntre copper.wire gets used not the silver outer wire, i dont understand why the wire is surrounded by another.wire

what gauge is the wire that you are soldering for a MAF? i was working on a classic car, and the guage (8-10AWG) of wire gets too large to solder, so i go for crimps

Did you see the pic before posting? Its a copper wire insulated by plastic with a silver colour wire around the plastic covered by.plastic

Yeah I would just replace the whole pigtail and splice it in. Extremely easier than RE wiring everything like
said.

Is that wire in the harness? Or is it attached to the maf connector?

Harbor Freight is good enough unless you work at an actual shop.

The outer wire is called a shielding wire.
It's used in applications where there is a high probability of signal interference.
A MAF sensor is not one of those applications.
Hell, the only automotive application for shielded wire is for a CAN bus if the car even has one (yours doesn't) and the shielding is supposed to be grounded.

In short, get rid of the shielded wire entirely and splice in a new, regular wire.

All the wreckers are shut today and probably will be until mid jan, if i just cut halfway down.and splice some copper wire in.their it might work??? And if not i'll steal the mrs corolla for.the next 2 weeks and figurevout wether i should fix the wrx or the skyline

Thats the wiring harness for 1 of 4 wires only the centre copper wire goes to the maf sensor plug.

But does the shielded wire go all the way to the main harness?

It goes right the way back to the firewall and.into the car, i have the dsshboard out but need to remove the heater core to get to it in the car, i have a wiring diagram for the 4 pin maf in the 98 wrx on my pc and it looks like that wire is meant to be shielded

I think that other user was telling you to get rid of that wire completely.

Honestly I wish I was infront of it myself to better assist you.
Understand I'm trying to help as best as I can as I don't know too much about early 2000's Subaru's.

Try splicing the wire and see if that will help. See if you can better rewire the plug connector on the maf since it's covered in fucking tape.

If that fails replace the entire harness.
If all else fails report back.

Yea i understand mate should i replace it with a shielded wire?

Absolutely

Yeah, I just found a diagram and the green wire is supposed to be shielded.
In that case I'm not sure what the best course of action would be. I've never had a replace a shielded wire before but it looks like the shielding stops before the wire enters the plug so you should probably be fine just splicing onto the green wire alone.

Have you ever had to replace a shielded wire? Whats the best course of action?

Hmmm i see, the wires under the.tape in my pics are just twisted together maybe soldering them.might help lol im not experienced with wiring on.cars but i know they should atleast be joined not twisted

Only wires I have fucked with was cutting part of the shield off and twisting it into a ground source or crimping and cutting wires and soldering into other wires.

I wouldn't imagine it being any harder than that

Sweet as thanks for the advice i'll try sorting it out this week sometime, i want my turbo back lol

I'm a home gamer. There's no reason that you can't have Snap-On tools. When it comes to screwdrivers and ratchets, as far as I'm concerned, nothing else will do. Once you use them, you'll understand.

All of this stuff I got used, mainly one piece at a time, off of Craigslist, Facebook and eBay. I have saved THOUSANDS vs buying off of the truck. And that little 1/4" drive nutdriver down there? That's a TM4CS. NO toolbox is complete without one. Order one like yesterday. They are worth their weight in gold.

For sockets and wrenches, I go with what I get a deal on. I have a mishmash of Craftsman, Proto, Blackhawk, Blue-Point, Gearwrench, Mac, Matco, and Snap-On.

For ratcheting wrenches, Sears has a 20 piece Gearwrench set (10 metric, 10 standard), for only $50. That deal is like a sore peter: you can't beat it. Just do a google search, you'll find it.

Mind telling me why that snap-on 1/4" ratchet is that much better than my chinkshit (Taiwan actually) Famex piece? I'm honestly curious to know

Forsure man I hope me and the other user help you with that wrx of yours

Bitches will suck your dick when they see you use snap-on, just like driving a merc yo brand name is errythang

Quality.
Life time warranty.

Smoothness and tooth count. When you use a Snap-on ratchet, the action is like butter in your hand, and the fine teeth means that you don't have to swing your hand as much, allowing the ratchet to operate in much tighter spaces.

Hazet, Wera, Snap-On

Thanks man I'll check it out the next time I pop in a Sears

Black & Decker.

>Snap-On
>screwdrivers
>nothing else will do
Can you ride their nuts harder?

>Implying all screwdrivers are the same

I've got one snap on screwdriver. It's really nice to use and well made

It's a fucking screw driver dude. Unless you are a gunsmith or a watch maker you don't need premium screw drivers.

>I want my guns and watches to perform, but I don't care if my car runs properly.

Should I even bother buying a torque wrench when I can rent one for free (from parts stores)? I'd only be using it for my tires and occasionally other stuff if anything goes bad in my car. I feel like it's too specific

Depends on how much work you do. If you take your wheels off a lot, then yes, buy one. That's where most non-professional mechanics are going to use it 99% of the time, to be completely honest.

I did find a place that will do a traceable calibration on a click type for $30. So that's awesome. I need to send my Craftsman off. It hasn't been done is YEARS and YEARS.

Yeah, I know.

He said good budget torque wrench. Beam style is the best bang for your buck especially for a starter set.

I have upgraded to Husky click type as they have a good lifetime warranty.

No need for a snap on or any higher. Their accuracy doesn't warrant the price gouge.

And people here aren't working on any space rocket or delicate equipment that needs .005% accuracy of specialized torque wrenches..

speak for yourself. i own a e46 m3 and every nut and bolt needs to be torqued as per manufacturer specifications.

what kind of laughable absolute piece of shit car uses either philip or flathead screws.

and to go on a bit further, the only time you should be using a philips or flathead screw driver is to remove a screw. Every time i remove a flathead of philips screw into the garbage it goes. Torx for life.

>Torquing your tires
Bruh, just get those fuckers on tight you don't need to torque them exactly to a specific amount

There is an SK 1/2" 20-250 click type on eBay right now for $80. Add in the $30 to ship it off for calibration, and that will be all anybody reading this requires.

If I didn't have a nice old American Made Craftsman already, it would be heading my way.

Bruh, enjoy your warped rotors

My truck has a carburetor. Carbs use screws. Also most interior stuff is with screws.

I don't have rotors. Checkmate, atheist.

But actually you'll be fine.

Do you drive a Subaru? If so, you will be replacing head gaskets weekly so you should probably invest in one. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it if you aren't retarded.

>German cars
You don't NEED to torque everything to spec but I'm sure they all have reccommended torques just to make easy shit more complicated.

what if the engine block is aluminium along with the bolts which can be sheared if you apply too much torque? should i torque the fuel line as recommended in a 500hp + engine?

Yea over tighten them so when they rust you sheer them off.

There is a key component to all of this- you must have some common sense. If you lack any of that, buy a torque wrench and a service manual or just bring the thing to the dealer.

your truck has gear timing too and could be tuned and repaired with a variety of rocks.

what kind of truck would that be?

65 f250.

True. I'm actually wondering if it's with it to install a gear drive for timing on the 302 I'm going to build.

sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torque-wrench-3-8inch-drive/p-00931424000P

How does this look

>replacing head gaskets weekly
When will this meme stop?

Snap-On and Blue Point. Everything else is shit.

also is threadlocker a meme? It's like $5+ for a tiny tube of the stuff

No. It is really useful on certain stuff. And you only need a tiny drop so the little tubes last. But make sure you use the right one for your application.

Also that copper grease shit or whatever when you need to put steel hardware into aluminum threads. Use it.

True, after wrenching enough you get a feel for how snug things should be. Still can't understand how a Snap-On brand screw driver is a more "pleasant" experience or does the job better than any generic screw driver or similarly shaped piece of metal.

Snap-on tools are good, they work really well when you've got lifts that are only a couple months old.

>snap on is good quality

tip top kek

>made in china
>assembled in usa

Any metal to metal fastener that is subjected to heat or vibration will eventually move around. Thread locker is basically high heat plastic that keeps things in place. It's good stuff.

When it comes to screwdrivers, my standard is whether or not you can use the flathead as a pry bar and phillips as a punch. Doesn't really work with HF screwdrivers.

That's the main difference between garbage tools and good tools. You can abuse good tools to an extent and not have to worry. And if you go too far, they have a warranty. I like Craftsman though because it had always been more than good enough for my weekend warrior projects. Certain HF stuff works, but a whole lot of it is trash and will wear out and break even with moderate use.

KanColle ship girls blow their gaskets
whenever their admiral climbs aboard....

beams do not. the only time you make a beam style inaccurate is by overextending them beyond their specified torque, ie, bending the steel.

but they're not as convenient. the other guy is right... beam is best for budget and longevity