Got rx7 1995

Eh, you can get away with just dumping in one of those little bottles per tank fill up since you're not removing your OMP (Oil Metering Pump) system.

never the circumstances you want to acquire something, but it's rare to get something like this. Having an original FD RX-7 with such low mileage is very special. Like the others said, keep it clean and don't "rice it", change the oil regularly and it will be a good investment. Clean Japanese sports cars that are all oem and original are getting rarer and rarer and will be worth good money eventually.

>troll thread
Nice job OP
>morons confusing him with premix bullshit and memes
Good thing its just a troll thread

They are almost worthless now. In the 80's and 90's Mazda was experimenting with some wonky engine designs that never panned out. Special snowflake for the sake of it type stuff.

Now they're remembered as cars that are broken down longer than they run and have ford Taurus tier interiors.

They're pretty much the same as the MX-6 looks, performance, and quality wise but with a shittier engine.

why is it a troll thread?

And for the love of kek premix oil designed to burn in the combustion chamber not just regular motor oil.

'95's are rare as fuck (less than 1500 sold in the US). It's not more valuable because of that, but you'd better take care of it.

From my very recent personal experience I can tell you that these things flood super easily. The reason is that although they do run much hotter than similarly sized piston engines, they take a lot longer to fully warm up, and if you cut the engine off before that point, you'll be left with it flooded and won't be able to turn it over the next time you try to start it. So to be safe, never run the engine for less than 5-10 minutes.

The stock temp gauge is center-weighted and should never go more than a hair past the middle. If it does, you're overheating and need to turn your heater to full blast and stop driving. Rotaries "burn out" much more easily than piston engines.

Look into replacing the pre-catalytic converter with a downpipe. It's illegal, but most places will never check when you go in for inspection. The car will fail emissions tests if it's not fully warmed up, but you'll get some good weight reduction, a little extra horsepower, and vastly superior heat evacuation from the engine bay. Over time the pre-cats clog up and can cause sever overheating problems if not removed and replaced. Its only purpose is to reduce emissions while the engine is cold.

Replace all of the basic stuff (oil filter, air filter, spark plugs) and write down the day that you did and the odometer reading. For oil in particular, rotaries need very frequent changes (every 3000 miles) for the reasons mentioned by others. The spark plugs also don't last so long (recommended every 15,000 miles), and unfortunately are a bitch to swap out. NGK is pretty much the unanimous favorite brand among owners.

As you probably already know, the engine bays on these things are absolutely packed, so expect maintenance to be very time consuming. Even for fairly basic things, you WILL have to remove tons of unrelated parts to gain access.

It is now. See:

They're like Supras just less valuable, less powerful, less reliable, slower, and they handle worse.

why compare to supra, where is the relation besides era.

>NGK
It's also worth noting to new rotary owners that you have a leading a trailing plug for each rotor, so note which is which when you replace them.

>two door sports coupes
>that cost nearly the same when new
>produced by two japanese manufacturers to compete in the the same segment
>with similar performance numbers

Gee I wonder why they would be compared.

leave the car stock. it will be worth an absurd amount of money.

As a matter of fact, when I replaced my spark plugs just the other day (bought my FD less than a month ago, so it was my first time), I noticed that the bozos who had changed them before me got them mixed up. IT SAYS "L" AND "T" ON BOTH THE PLUGS AND THE HOUSING YOU STUPID FUCKS.

this. treat it as an investment more than anything else, unless you're absolutely dead-set on using it for yourself. some rotary fanatic will probably pay you an irresponsible amount of money for it.

Except that they are not in the same segment. The Supra is a grand tourer

Are you in California? I'll take it off your hands

if Veeky Forums was around in the 60s and 70s i can picture this shit conversation between a bunch of boomers

shit b8

rx7 is three seconds faster than the supra around tsukuba...

Yes rip i kinda wanted an rx7 for ages but never had experience with one. I will hold on to it for atleast a year before deciding anything about it.

Actually if you want to drive a rx7 sell your immaculate one and buy a single turbod one off the forums.

Where at? You'll probably hate owning one and I will too once I get my hands on one

Why single and not twin?

"Grand Tourer" isn't a segment.

Two door sports coupe at a given price is a segment. Both the RX-7 and Supra were in the same segment and are directly comparable.

>Grand tourer
This argument doesn't hold water anyway because the supposed 'hard core sports car' RX-7 was slower and worse performing in pretty much every way compared to the 'tourer' Supra.

>RS
Stripped out princess model FD that has no Supra equivalent doesn't really count.

Equivalent model for equivalent model the FD was slower then the MkIV.

>"Any advice is greatly appreciated."
fuck off, tardo.

>because the supposed 'hard core sports car' RX-7 was slower and worse performing in pretty much every way compared to the 'tourer' Supra
you are fucking retard

>rs
a mid level trim, not some hardcore stripped out princess like you say. they had rear seats.

>Equivalent model for equivalent model the FD was slower then the MkIV
you mean the rz which is three seconds slower? top trim supra vs mid trim rx7...

>gets proven wrong
>no that doesn't count, THIS ONE does!
Epin backpedalling

Twin turbo rx-7s are way less reliable than those with a single turbo setup.

Care 2 elab, was it just manufacturing wise or this whole temperatures issue or both?

Hey OP, not sure if this is a troll or not, but don't mind replying. I actually own a 2002 Mazda RX7, so can speak on experience opposed to most of the people in this thread.

You don't need to premix with a stock FD, period. The car has an oil metering pump from factory that takes oil from the sump and injects it into the combustion chambers. Pre mixing a stock car - especially one that you might not drive hard at all- is dangerous and enables accelerated rates of carbon build up on the rotors and can lead to apex seal failure requiring a full engine rebuild. Don't bother with it.

Aside from that, let it warm up and cool down a bit when driving it. Try not to hammer it too hard in warmer weather as the factory intercooler is woeful. Also keep an eye on the oil levels, take a look every 2nd tank fill up or so. Any more questions let me know :)

>Pre mixing a stock car - especially one that you might not drive hard at all- is dangerous and enables accelerated rates of carbon build up on the rotors and can lead to apex seal failure requiring a full engine rebuild
this is a myth perpetrated by very few people on rotary forums. dont believe it.

All i know is holy shit a 2002 rx7 sounds amazing and pricey.

From what I understand it's just a classic "more shit to break" type of problem. A more complex system with more moving parts is more likely to break, generally speaking.

So should i expect this to basically be a huge hassle if i drive it close to daily. I know that will piss many off.

I own one and in my opinion its not necessary on a stock FD - especially one that isn't driven hard (or going to be driven hard given that OP doesnt seem very versed in sports cars). Mineral oil in the sump is the best as it combusts easier than synthetic oils. However excessive pre mixing reduces the quality of the fuel charge and can be detrimental. If the OMP's are working fine then there should be no need to premix in my experience. I have heard of people throwing some oil in the fuel every 2nd or 3rd fuel refil when running the OMP, which makes sense. Once the rotors start to carbon up, very little, including running the car up to redline multiple times or using the subaru upper engine cleaner can reduce the amount of carbon on the rotors

Pretty much the same thing - just a better looking (imo) body and a more simplified vacuum system for the twin turbos sequential actuation. Furthermore, I believe that the twin turbos running sequentially is what adds a lot of character to the FD, as it makes for super responsive and linear power.

Not really. If you look after it, it should give you at least 100k km between rebuilds. Rebuilds for rotary engines are pretty much equitable to changing the head gasket in a conventional piston car, and the rebuilds are far far cheaper than a piston engine rebuild would be. All you really have to be concerned about is the fuel bill for its high consumption. They drive like nothing else motor wise, and feel quite special :)

Friendly reminder Toyota has never ever won LeMans

>Mineral oil in the sump is the best as it combusts easier than synthetic oils
still doesnt burn as well as 2stroke or offer near as good lubrication.. doesnt leave any carbon. also premixing in fuel lubricates the entire combustion chamber not just a dribble

premix makes a big difference to the quality of housings and rotors when its time to rebuild even on already high mileage engines

>far far cheaper than a piston engine rebuild would be.

$2300 for the atkins rotary seal kit is not cheap.

>Rebuilds for rotary engines are pretty much equitable to changing the head gasket in a conventional piston car.

Yeah if you just slap it back together and hope for the best.

If you're not hand clearancing your apex seals and checking balance on the rotating assembly then you're gonna have a bad time.

obligatory LS swap suggestion

Stock yes, modified 13b's usually run all 4 leading plugs for better ignition.

for pretty much everything.. $700 worth of gaskets and $350 oil control rings arent needed with every rebuild
seal, springs, o-rings necessary gaskets etc no more than $1500

rip inb4 rotary makes it unique etc.

Put a LS in it.

Lock it away and only drive it on dry spring/summer days

And DON'T FUCKING FLOOD IT. If you turn the engine on, you need to keep it on for at least ten minutes to warm shit up.

youtube.com/watch?v=bUBhJM2An34

ls will ruin the weight balance and the handling.

If all you want is a straight line boat with an ls save yourself the 20k you'd spend on an fd and buy a crapmaro and swap that.

Don't fall for the memes. Interpret that in anyway you want to.

Maybe 2300 is a lot of you are poor and drive a civic/miata. Talking in AUD here, but rebuilding a rotary compared to an Rb26 or 2JZ is far far cheaper. Top kek when people think that because an engine rebuild costs as much as their pride and joy it's expensive haha.

I don't understand what you are on about. Rebuilding a 13b is far cheaper than any RB,2j etc motor. I'm talking about the expectation to have to pull the motor/put a decent amount of coin into the motor every so often.

Nobody said anything about an rb or a 2j being cheaper to rebuild, he said piston engine you dumb ass bogan.

$2300 would fully rebuild most engines aside from the snowflakes you had to bring up to appear correct.

Actual experienced rotary owner here if you guys want to dispel any myths/ask questions

How strongly would you recommend getting one? The FD is one of my dream cars and I want to purchase one in the future but I'm currently a poor kid and my SVX is already a lot of work.

Later on in life if it is what you want and you are willing to spend ~20k to buy one, go for it. Make sure to do a lot of research beforehand and be prepared to do a fair amount of maintenance. If you work on the car yourself, it isn't as expensive as one might think, although if you don't then finding a good rotary mechanic is going to be hard and expensive.

I do all my own maintenance. I'm not one for paying excessive amounts of money for labor unless it's a really serious repair or body work. How much does it take to keep it well kept and decently maintained and how far do you think (miles wise) you could take it before the engine would require a rebuild? Are there any other issues with the car like a wonky transmission or some other weird lemon issue?

A turbo rotary can require a rebuild anywhere from 60k miles to 100k miles, although there has been cases on rx7club.com (very good resource for anything about rx7s) of FDs going 120k before rebuilding. Other than the seals, the cooling system on FDs is not great. On stock boost, upgrading the radiator isn't that necessary, however you will want to invest in a metal AST, downpipe, modify the airbox, and replace the vacuum hoses because they are prone to cracking and ruining your engine. The engine is plenty reliable if it has those reliability mods and you are maintaining it correctly.

Sounds like what I was expecting from it then. So I'm sure if I do all of that and premix it'll last me a good time then. How often do you drive your FD?

It is my daily driver, but I don't drive much in general nowadays. I only put about 4k miles on it per year. It currently has ~60k miles on the clock with stock seals. I'm looking forward to rebuilding it though because I've only ever rebuilt 12A engines, never a 13B.

Dope. That's what I wanted to do with it. Everyone says daily'ing a rotary is cancer but I wouldn't want it to just be a garage princess.

I currently drive an SVX so it can't be much more to deal with.

Add more rotors for sick braps dawg

The twins are old inefficient turbos. They take up a fair bit of space and retain a crap ton of heat. But worst of all because they are sequential their control system is quiet, quiet complicated and is prone to failure.

That's 2300 for the minimum consumables required. In addition to that you want to use the skills of an experienced engine rebuilder, or if dping yourself the required specalist tools... expect to pay 3-4k total for a rebuild if you have a professional do it. Back yard jobs don't last very long...

Look into secondary cooling fans. Those things run *hot*. Jam some extra fans under the hood. Ones that will keep running for a few minutes after you shut the car off.

not at all the correct route to rectifying the heat problem

You've come to the wrong place. Find a forum dedicated to rx7's of your gen.

They aren't snowflakes - maybe they are if you catch the bus or own a shitbox like by the sounds of it you do. They are equitable cars in price that compete in market with the RX7. Half the reason I bought a 2002 FD was because of its cheaper rebuilds. My mates with GTR's and Supras are forever scared of popping their motors as they are up for huge money on the rebuild.

You couldn't even rebuild an SR20 for 2300 - Source, owned two S15's.

Looks great fellow fd friend

You're comparing the aus market to usdm, we only just got r32's, supras are rare as fuck and over priced.

Fd's over here are kind of cheap, a stock example going for just over 20k and heavily modded for 15k and under, the american fd crowd takes devaluation seriously.

I mean I guess I drive a shitbox, rx8's are shitboxes right?

>That's 2300 for the minimum consumables required
thats 2300 for a heap of parts you DONT NEED with a regular rebuilt

tools arent that expensive and you should already have them!... biggest tool cost is a air gun and 54mm socket for the flywheel nut

back yard jobs are fine if the person building can read a book

Since this is a rx7 thread now has there ever been a case where the Dorito breaks in half if so have you seen it happen?

>You couldn't even rebuild an SR20 for 2300

a cp piston/tomei rod combo/tomei headgasket is only $1200, then $25 per cylinder to hone, $20 a piece for oem main bearings.

Unless you destroy your entire engine I can't see how you'd spend more than $1600 on a rebuild.

Aftermarket fans are not a good solution.

Correct. I am talking about aus- where R32 GTR's are cheaper than the USA (yet have been rising a lot in price since you have been able to import them), and yet im still saying that a rotary rebuild is significantly cheaper than an RB or 2J engine rebuild. I'm not referring to america where an RB engine rebuild is more expensive due to lack of people working with them. We have a plethora of RB, SR and 2JZ engine workshops, and yet a Rotary rebuild IS SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper to rebuild than the engines above (aside from SR20).

Huge straw man here. Do you really think OP, who just inherited an RX7 and seems oblivious to operating one is really going to order an atkins rotary rebuild kit and boot up a 90's rebuild DVD on his TV in the garage and start spinning spanners on it for a full rebuild? I am well aware the parts for an SR20 rebuild is cheap, but your comparing apples to oranges. Go price what it would cost for a workshop to pull the motor, assess the damage and rebuild it with all those parts and come back to this thread, because thats what OP would be doing if his motor let go - taking it to a workshop. Rebuilding a motor is a million more things than just the parts that spin and go up and down. Leading into my next point:

If you got a workshop to pull the motor and rebuild it, your looking at a fair chunk of coin. If I blew the SR20 in my S15s, id just buy a long motor and drop it in rather than rebuild it to factory specs. If i were going to rebuild it, you'd be an idiot to not rebuild it with uprated internals, then you have to look at new turbochargers and fuel systems, on top of new ECU and tuning, and the prices start to skyrocket. Multiply this many many times for parts for RB26 engines or any other engine comparable to the 13b from the 90's era of japanese super sports cars.

My second point is directed to
not

LS swap it, opie. That way it will actually work.

There are only three correct courses of action in this situation OP.

>sell it, make a troublesom car someone else's problem and make yourself some coin.
>keep it then sell it, store it someplace clean, dry, out of the sun, and sealed/safe from rodents, drain the fuel and run the fuel system clean, do an oil change and let it sit for 5-10 years so they become somewhat valuable. Then sell it as a unicorn for a premium when demand is higher and less of them are on the road.
>swap an LS and drive the shit out of it. This is the only way to capitolize on the cars great chassis without having to deal with it's shit stock motor and all it's issues. Ignore the retards that say LS swaps ruin the handling. They add less than 60lbs to the car, retain factory steering rack location, and weight can easily be offset with corner balancing. LS's are better motors in every practical way.

t. benchracer

What about a set of engine micrometers? Vernier calipers, Bar limit, feeler gauge, dial indicator. That's just for clearencing. I'm not saying that its not doable, just that there is more involved than everyone on Veeky Forums makes it out to be.