Should I buy this? I need one as I cannot get my rusted ass lug nuts off with a cross bar or any of my other tools

Should I buy this? I need one as I cannot get my rusted ass lug nuts off with a cross bar or any of my other tools

>$200 Canadian sheckles

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No. 3/4 drive minimum if you're going impact. Thats like a drill with a vibtator strapped on. A $15 breaker bar will work better.

Why does changing the size of the anvil make a difference?

That thing looks really cheap for 200 dollars.

Make sure to get the high torque one, the normal torque is only good to around 80ish ft\lbs.

what you need OP is a breaker bar, pipe, and hammer

Also a new studs and lug nuts is advisable.

There are two common styles of wheel studs and both are fairly easy to replace if you have any level of mechanical ability.

That thing will be nice to use but if your lugnuts are tight as fuck you should probably just get a breaker bar.

But if it were me, I would ignore the comments and buy the impact anyway. Then when it doesn't work, go spend $20 on a cheap breaker bar. That way you still have a cordless impact for future jobs.

If you cant get it off with a good breaker bar then you're either too weak or the nuts are absolutely seized

We'll 3 people have tried with the cross bar and no dice, so what do I do?

Make a homemade penetrating fluid. Mix 50/50 Acetone and ATF. Spray it on the lugnuts, wait about 10 minutes, remove them with your breaker bar.

no then this happens. if you force it shit breaks

you need leverage son
either put a huge pipe on the cross bar or get a proper johnson bar

Make the bar you're using longer which gives more leverage. If a 3 or 4 foot long breaker bar won't undo them, slip a pipe over the end to extend it further. It would need to be a seriously powerful impact gun to undo them if you can't get them off with a breaker bar of that size.

Then buy the impact gun anyway, because they're useful as fuck when things aren't done up stupid tight.

Don't do this it makes mustard gas

I'll just make home made hot dogs to go with it

Not if you use a decent impact socket. You're right though a normal socket will probably crack with that amount of force.

whats your impact of choice?

...

One of these with Snap On impact sockets. I've never managed to break one and I'm not exactly careful with my tools.

Ancient mechanic here. Use quality lug wrench like a

kentool.com/index.php/products/lug-wrenches/wrenches

which NAPA usually stocks along with a four-foot or longer pipe. Remember it's gonna take the same amount of torque to remove no matter how long or short your cheater pipe is so longer is better for control and ease of use.

Impacts are more for spinning nuts off quickly than the max force you can apply with a cheater pipe.

If you put a jack stand under the outboard end of the lug wrench, or a stack of wood blocks etc or have a bro hold it level that's even better for very stuck nuts. If you wring any studs off, knock them out with a large hammer and punch then replace.

Same pipe technique works for CV axle nuts too.

Leverage is love, leverage is control, leverage is your friend.

we call those 4 way here.

That's bleach and ammonia, dumbass.

>3/4 drive minimum if you're going impact

There are 1/2" cordless impacts that easily do 600ft/lbs+ of break-away torque. 3/4" would be overpriced, oversized, and overpowered for anything car related.

>6000ftlbs
fucking why?

>Mac
Get on my level, plebe.

You would be shocked how tight some industrial bolts need to be. A lot of the higher stuff like that is in steam piping.

...

I'm in love. Fasteners must come off and power is good.

Bleach and ammonia make phosgene, not mustard gas which is blister agent.

Learn 2 NBC.

Whatever. The point is, that shit will kill you. And ATF/Acetone is the best penetrating fluid out there.

is this one good? CP7748 $200
1/2in. composite air impact wrench with friction ring socket retainer
Delivers 922 ft.-lbs. max. torque in reverse
Operates at 8,200 RPM free speed
1,200 BPM in impact mode
Durable twin hammer clutch for long life

Chicago Pneumatic is good for sure, but for $200, you can get an Ingersoll Rand. I'd go I-R if I were you. The IR231 is an absolute workhorse.

>NBC
It's called CBRNE now fgt.

thats what im replacing. IR231C
im sick of rebuilding it and its just not strong enough.
im fed up with that underpowered pos

Get a long ass breaker bar and some liquid wrench

...

>trying to get rusted brake caliper bracket off my mums car
>she buys this shitty 12v impact drill
>this isnt gonna work seriously this is the cheapest shit impact drill
>try it with one of the PHREE included impact sockets
>basically spins up and gets some inertia going then engages the socket
>vvvvrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRRRR BANG
>vvvvvvrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr BANG
>takes like 5 seconds for it to spin up because its powered from a car battery
i was pleasantly surprised how well it worked

runs off the cars battery? is that a thing?

it actually runs off a cigarette lighter socket but it came with a lighter socket to 12v clamps adapter

Holy fuck. Okay. Snap-on time for you, then. "They say" that Earthquake XT shit from Horror Fraught is okay, too, but since I already have a Snappy, I won't be buying one personally. But fuck it, for $120, give it a shot.

I heard hazard freight's impact wrenches are just reskinned ingersoll rand

Who the fuck knows.

At the tire shop I worked at in college, we used IR231's, and while they did have to be rebuilt occasionally, we put them through absolute hell. No home gamers would ever use one to the extent we did, that's why I recommended it. Apparently you use the fuck out of your shit. And good on ya for it!

the smallest sockets we used are 1 1/8. so yes they worked hard. SOMETIMES we used 7/8. but that was RARE.

>Horror Fraught
>hazard freight

Well fuck then. Start using a 3/4 drive. 1/2" ain't gonna cut it.

any models that dont weigh a fuck ton? i tried some before but they sit because they are pretty barbarically big, and we also work in tight spaces.

Check this one out. Reviews seem pretty good
kimballmidwest.com/84007/