Questions that dont deserve their own thread - /qtddtot/

Where do I start with learning how to build an engine to go faster?
Like for example if I can't find a premise turbo kit for my car but I can find numerous examples of people piecing together their own how do I go about acquiring th knowledge to do it correctly?
Is there a book?
Video?
Secret club and handshake?
Help an user out

Learning how to partially disassemble your engine will be helpful
Pick up a Haynes manual

Best tools for cleaning a cars interior?

I'm talking like.. I want to shampoo the carpet, and the seats, but I don't have anything to do that with.

Also, is there a quick fix that looks good for saggy head liner? Mine is dipping in a few small spots, but otherwise is in great shape.

But, I do also need to replace the head lamp entire assembly.

I don't really care if it's a hatch, personally I'd prefer a midsize sedan with a proper engine, but this is really the only acceptable option that I'm coming up with that's that new in the sub-$10k price range

When I have my defroster on and I accelerate, there's a whine that's pitch is similar to a supercharger, and I'm wondering if this is an indication that something is wrong with the compressor? It's a CD3 Fusion Sport and for some fucking reason Ford designed the HVAC system to use the compressor when the defroster is on, it makes the same noise when engaging that the AC makes when it's turned on

How the fuck do I set the head to clear the windshield on cold, humid mornings?

starting with the basics and building the knowledge from there i p much the only way to do it; along with the other skills needed (metal fab, take a welding course etc)

heater**

courtesy sage

The AC turns on when you turn on the defroster so that it can dry the moisture out of the air you are using to get the moisture off of your windshield. If it didn't, you'd be blowing moist air into your windshield which wouldn't help your situation.

OK, makes sense, other cars I had didn't use the AC compressor for defrost, but OK.

What do you think of the whine though?

>interior options
*use baking soda and had scrub dat bitch
*rent a rug doctor/steam cleaner
*take it to a detailer and drop $100-$150

>sagging headliner fixes
tacks
>looks good
no
>head lamp
u mean dome light? then just redo it
headliners are pretty easy to remove
>expect for plastic trim

>Miata was doing this
>Trying to figure it out
>Revving it slightly with throttle cable
>Hear something come loose and start banging around inside
>Click clack pow, Miata down

It turned out to be a fucked up spark plug, the tip of which then broke off into the cylinder and fucked the engine.

I have to replace this thing because my civic is not revving past 4k rpm; I checked online and pretty much everyone else fixed this problem by replacing the VTEC solenoid (pictured)...

They also said to torque the bolts way more than what it says in the manual. I should just go with this and torque them to 7.2 lb/ft right??

Should i get that 2013 ford escape

What can i use to remove resin stains?

I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer ES
After I drive on the highway or around the city for a little while, when I idle at a stop-light, the car starts vibrating roughly and the oil light lights up. As soon as I hit the gas and increase the rmp's the light goes dark, and it stops shaking.

I replaced the O2 sensors, oil, and spark plugs, and the problem persists.

Has this happened to anyone else?

scrap it, it's totaled

check the ICV

What kind of resin are we talking here?

Anyone know the answer to this? Is my compressor going? Is there something I should check?

Want to clean my engine and bay to look for possible oil leak what parts should I cover up? Cool to just hose it down?

Would it be worth remapping a 2005 audi 1.9 tdi audi a3? Its just had a new turbo put in it and i was wondering if itd be worth it trying to squeeze a few extra hp out of the engine as I'll likely be using the car for at least 2 years.
Its a really nice car and i love it to bits but its awfully slow

spray some simple green or other degreaser on the block, pan, and any oily parts otherwise you'll just get everything wet for no reason
>spray degreaser
>wait 5-10 min
>lightly spray off degreaser
>try not to soak battery, distributor, or spark plug wells
>wait for it to sun dry OR use compressed air to blow off excess water faster
some self washes also have a engine cleaner available, but it's just foamy degreaser

>not factory remapping any time a turbo or engine component is replaced
>even for small/easy stuff like spark plugs
always do this, you probably will get some wild horses back;
getting the ECU flashed for $$$ without extensive mods, not so much
a diesel will never be fast

I drive a Nissan D21. When I push the brake the car easily stops and I don't have to push very hard, but if I do push the pedal kinda easily goes to the floor. Would it be stopping this well if it had air in the lines? Or am I just overestimating how much effort it takes to push the brakes to the floor in the first place?

feelsbadman :(
Meh 2 more years till my insurance goes down and i can afford something quicker

18, tired of being a busrider

Is this site enough to pass?

driving-tests.org/california/

i have a '91 d21
if you pump the brakes do you get some extra firmness?
>replace your drum brake wheel cylinders
>check your brake calipers for leaks
>check your brake lines for cracking or corrosion
do you brake really good w/o leaks but the brake still sinks to the floor?
>check the brake booster for vacuum and any rust or holes, and rebuild/replace the master cylinder

gl D br/o/

>driving-tests.org/california/
should do

With the car off the brakes pump to being rock-hard basically, but lets say for example I'm trying to stock while driving. Maybe pressing the pedal 30% bring me to a stop fine, but once I'm stopped I can easily press it down 100% without any more resistance than just the initial 30%. Make sense?

Why does my engine squeak while running?

Only drive downhill...

Ever since being forced to parallel park, my steering wheel has gotten to the point where it squeaks very loudly while turning the wheel around and around. It's most likely low power steering fluid right? How long does that stuff last because I know it hasn't been changed or even looked at for 30,000 miles.

Squeak or squeal or groaning. ?

If its squealing, then its your belt, if its groaning, then your PS fluid, and if its squeaking then some mechanical linkage is rubbing in the column.

Also it would be close to a 100k before you PS fluid would be noticeably bad, and you're not supposed to lose any, so if its low then you have a leak.

Again squeak or squeal? Odds are its a belt or pulley.

OP here looking for an answer , thanks

Could anyone post that jap website infographic useful for importing wheels n shizzle that had the same letter repeated on the url (ie "bbbbaaa.jp")?

Thanks in advance

Pic related is the engine. There is alot of leaves and debri in it also which i think will be easiest to get out with a hose spray down. But the part I am worried about is the pic on the right. there seems to be oil there and that crack or gap.

More like a groan maybe. It gets really bad when I do a full circle turn. I guess I never noticed it beforehand because I never had to turn the steering wheel a complete 180/360 since I never had to parallel park before.

It is right at 99,000 miles. I haven't checked it, bought the car at 75k miles. Is it very likely it's bad? I hope it's not a mechanical issue.

Would I have to take it to a shop to look at it or could Auto Zone easily diagnose it?

I'm kind of assuming it's the belt. The squeaking seems more pronounced when the weather is wet and/or cold. It's just annoying becayse I try to take care of my vehicle and it sounds like I'm not.

Check pads or flush your fluid.

Brake fluid is supposed to be replaced every two years as its Hydroscopic

Thanks

Most belts are

Thanks user (PS advice)

Seems my automatic when in drive and then accelerating when it shifts up a gear it has a bit of a kick, more than I am used to. Any idea of what the cause of this could be?

Only recent repairs and changes are the shifter bushing, a part of air intake, and the PCV valve and hose were all replaced.

This is a fuel filter right?

I'm a total car newb and I didn't want to make new threads so I'll just ask my dumb shit here.

What is better? A smaller engine with a turbo or supercharger or a larger engine that's naturally aspirated? And why if you don't mind explaining.

yes

Depends on what you want to do with it.

Generally the more power you eek out of a smaller motor, with forced induction like a turbo charger, the less reliable it is, However theoretically youll get better gas mileage while not on boost.

Bigger engines can put out more power more reliably and typically if you put FI on it you'll get even more power.

Nope. That's the piss filter.

It's used to clean the urine found commonly in the back of Explorer SUVs owned by Mexicans.

thanks

I have in fact cleaned the ICV already. thanks for replying.

Sounds like a leak or a bad cup seal in the master cylinder. Use brake clean on your calipers then pump the pedal and see if any fluid had leaked. If you have rear drone do the same but remember to put the drum back on before you press the pedal. If you don't have leaks id suspect that the cup seals in the master have rolled backward. When you pedal to the floor do you feel a feely feel in the pedal near the end of pedal travel?

Top off or replace trans fluid. Do not have it"flushed" that usually pushes shavings back into places they shouldn't be and causes more problems but a drain and refill is always a good idea

>good
1.6L not lacking in power
tight handling
cargo space out the wazoo
back seat is comfy

>bad
can't hear turbo normally, need to remove air filter cover to hear it, this would be forgivable if there was a boost meter
no good spot to close hatch from outside
elbow always bumping that mile high center console

>ugly
recalls because fiery engines
my ford touch crashes sometimes if you poke around on it too much
no paddle shifters

source on that pic?

Truck is sounding a bit weird. It's almost like I have a hole in my exhaust before the muffler BUT I only hear it when accelerating and idling. I don't hear it when coasting. No other indications that anything is wrong.

I have a 1.9 PSA diesel which idles too high after a minute. Even in cold weather it fires up and stays at 900 rpm, but after a minute or so it idles at 1100 rpm. It's the DW8 (I think) with cable throttle and mechanical fuel pump.

get a lawyer. they work with the judge and cops, and can get you a good deal. they are worth their weight in gold

You have a hole in your exhaust...

Anything else it could be? I would have already checked but no garage and we've got more snow on the ground.

Perhaps it's something in the engine.
Take of the manifold to check for scratches on the pistons.

What do people mean when they say they bought a "new car with 10000 miles on it"? Having 10000 miles and a previous owner means it's used, just call it used, unless I'm missing something.

>headliner

Buy some 3M spray adhesive if you can get under it at an edge

Are you a woman? If so, sure. Seems to be popular amongst the young ladies

So I know removing your cat is illegal in all 50 states and removing your muffler is mostly illegal. But I always see on forums people doing muffler deletes and cat deletes and straight pipes specifically on subyroos and still driving on the road. Are these people getting an exception or just doing it under the assumption they wont get caught?

Sounds like your oil pump is about to shit it self

How much does rust devalue a car?
Going to sell my truck but the body is a rusty POS
Frame is fine

Depends on the condition of other comparable Models of said truck, and what your local market is like

Alot of states simply don't check or check throughly or give a shit.

Keep in mind emissions testing isn't done everywhere.

>I own a 540i with no cats in a no emissions check state

It means it's new to them. Quit being an autist.

In that case I'm getting this neat '13 wrx hatch in Arizona which will test emissions but noise is subjective. Should I do a muffler delete or be a good boy and get a proper exhaust? I'm not going for a fart can I wanna just save some weight/get rid of the quad tailpipes and add some more horsies.

A quick look on Craigslist shows similar trucks mostly with less rust,. But significantly higher miles, and significantly higher asking prices

I'm planning on listing mine at about the equivalent of the same truck with no rust,. But twice as many miles and only 2 WD vs 4

Do you not have a "blow to windshield" option in your air controls? Like far right, of the far right control, of this picture?

Thoughts on these trucks? I pretty much just need a beater truck that won't get stuck in mud.

I want to spend more time driving than I do looking for parts though

Don't be a cunt, get a decent muffler. Itll not only be loud if you straight pipe, it'll also sound like ass.

Got a 2002 automatic escape that I ran into a snowy ditch today. Was running and changing gears fine, until we finally cleared a path and threw down some sand, now it won't shift out of park. Like I still have to hit the brake to shift, but then it just kind of moves through the gears effortlessly without actually changing gears. Ended up having it towed to friend's place nearby,but 30 minutes away from me. Was hoping it would be a quick fix, but can't really find an answer on google. Happy to answer any questions.

Natalie Austin

that's terrifying

I also noticed a cable on shifter that was like snapped, and found other end. There was like hairties and shit in there too, so it makes me think the previous owner had same problem and ghetto-rigged it.

Today after driving around a bit and driving in reverse normally I shifted into reverse and while reversing the rpms seemed to sputter and then the engine turned off entirely. I was able to then shift into park and remove the key. I then started the engine and shifted into drive and it was fine. I then parked it at my work since I was close by.

Also it seems to steer a little heavier than usual and is not centering as fast as usual. Probably just power steering fluid? I checked and it is low.

What kind of motor/trans/driveshaft would I have to swap in order to convert a Volvo 240 wagon from rwd to awd?

This is just a pipe dream. I know that if I have to ask for advice about something like this, it's probably not feasible for me to attempt

You'd have to redo the entire front suspension, and be able to squeeze a transaxle or differential under the engine.

That's alot of fab, and engineering.

Low PS fluid would make the pump work harder and put more strain on the belt, and the car might have issues keeping idle if its bad enough.

If you were backing up straight without turning then you have another issue.

Your shifter cable has most definately snapped.

Figured.

Maybe i'll try in 10 years when I have some real expendable income and a garage. It would certainly be cool if I pulled it off.

thanks for the serious answer.

It was backing up straight. It seemed to does this last week and I had the steering bushing replaced we thought that was the problem. Because it shifted into reverse last week and then when shifted into drive or park it would reverse like it was in reverse. Then the engine just did not start at all...

>400k miles
>want to spend more time driving than I do looking for parts

lol ok

Sounds like the shifter cable needs adjusting, and or your Neutral safety switch is kicking in becuase the shifter is misaligned.

What is the best cleaner to use on vinyl/plastic? I tough some tough dinge.

2008 c6 Z06?
Or
2017 Mustang GT?

That's actually really tough. I'd go for the older vehicle, more parts avaliable, cheaper insurance, etc.

There's something wrong with second gear in my MK4 Golf. Sometimes (~once a day), when I shift into second gear, the shifter moves into place fine, but the gear doesn't 'engage.'
When I start to let the clutch out it makes a bad sound similar to when you try to start the car when it's already running.
After I clutch back in shift to neutral then back to second, it is fine. What does this mean? I it likely a major transmission issue?