[ D a i l y A u s f a g T h r e a d ]

[ D a i l y A u s f a g T h r e a d ]

>non-autistic OP edition

>'Strayan Cars & Bikes
>'Strayan Questions & Answers
>'Strayan Pictures & Videos
>'Strayan Blogging, Bitching & Moaning
>'Strayan Scenic as fuck
>'Strayan Cucked as fuck

>/dat/ Links
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Music List: pad.riseup.net/p/datmusic
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>Community Links
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>Guides & Information
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/dat/ Recommended Cars: my.mixtape.moe/akuicw.jpg
RAA Used Car Checklist: raa.com.au/documents/motoring-buy-a-car-checklist

Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/BJGQfhYWpa4?t=102
strawpoll.me/12252479
supercheapauto.com.au/services/in-store/oil-recycling/
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

Sec i better go take a new pic so you know its me

...

after how many thousand km's should engine oil go pretty dark?

i'm only at 7,000 and its pretty dark. not jet black but dark.

...

leave it any longer and you'll eventually get sludge which is pretty annoying to clean, usually requires multiple flushes and a new oil filter

New pic of your shitbox or fuck off.

Purposely changing the OP to get a reaction from people is pretty autistic, Falcunt.

Here's your (You).

>Falcunt giving advice
No

i dont have anything here atm

jeep is in a million pieces

you know its me because its bad advise desu.

Well technically not bad advise i had to flush sludge out of a old tractor because my dad never changed the oil in over 300 hours so it took like 10 litres and a new filter but still worth it.

Oil usually darkens since it's picking up all the shit and suspending it in the oil. It's nothing to worry about really but still, get it changed in the next 1k kms if you really want to.

The oil viscosity is probably fucked once it heats up tho once it starts to turn black it starts to lose its protective properties and goes too thin/thicc

I like it.

you just got rused

youtu.be/BJGQfhYWpa4?t=102

you should change it at least every 10k km, 5k km if you have a modified engine.

Thanks mum

Nobody replied to me with a genuine answer last thread
>is it hard to change an exhaust
>will a $3-400 ebay (rhino) 2.5' catback be half decent
>will any VZ SS 5.7 exhaust fit my 6.0 thunder

Its the only thing im looking at so far besides replacing this skirt

Lol'd

Also the bonnet looks fucked in that photo but it was dusty as fuck and still is because ive been in the US since the week I bought it (hence why only garbage photos)

No not that hard, exhaust headers are a PITA though.

Post links m8
i dont get it

Colour is not an indicator of condition, pour fresh oil in a diesel and it's jet black the second it cranks

Petrol isn't much different, it can be dark and still be completely fine

mmmmm it kinda is tho

Do you want to get stabbed cunt?

depends on the age/kms of your car/how much you care about the car.
under 10 years/100,000km every year or 10,000km
over 10 years/100,000km every 6 months or 5,000km
granted youre using a non-synthetic oil. if synthethic you can get away with 10,000-15,000 even 20,000 if youre brave enough.

>is it hard to change an exhaust
No.

>will a $3-400 ebay (rhino) 2.5' catback be half decent
No, Spend your money on something. or you can delete your catalytic converter and put a straight pipe inside the cat converter so that it looks stock, chop the exhaust off behind the diff and it will sound nice.

>will any VZ SS 5.7 exhaust fit my 6.0 thunder
No idea, why would you do that? Buy some decent extractors and then do what i said above. Just unbolting the stock exhaust tip bit (axleback) will give it a decent note.

>When the fluid leakage turns out to be power steering fluid off the lines and not oil from RCG or main seal
power steering delete when?

yep meet you and me and aussieautism here at Coffs BP jimmyshit and we'll have a punch on then go to the bowlo and maccers afterwards

the cars 23 and using semi-synthetic oil. the mechanics i've been to usually recommended 10,000kms but i ususally did it at 9. this time its only at 7 and looks pretty dark.

Replace it, No point having no power steering.

all 3 of my cars do this

just fix the bloody hoses and fittings i cant be fucked.

most leak out of the filler cap and back of the pump just usually requires a tweak

>had power steering leak
>turned out it was the hoses
>replaced
>refilled power steering fluid to the exact perfect mark on the stick
>but i keep finding the reservoirs outside covered in it
>clean it
>still keeps happening
>fluid level hasn't changed at all
What the fuck is going on.

I've had cars come in for servicing 5k overdue and the colour is fine, fairly high km on the clock too

cannot be fucked.
its an absolute cunt of a job, the lines run under the sump, behind the motor, next to exhaust manifold.
slow leak too, easier to top up when neccessary.

it could be small cracks in the resevoir itself.
liquid seeps out then accrues dust which may make the leak look bigger than what it is.

its usually been pretty good for the first few thousand kms but then i usually forget to check the oil around this time since its close to servicing anyway.

its got well over 300k kms on the clock so i imagine that might have something to do with it too.

Lol, Just do that then, put bathroom silicone over the leaking area and leave it. You'll be surprised how good selleys bathroom shit actually is, I fixed a leak in my commos exhaust when the gaskets were shit, put the bathroom shit on both sides and made sure it covered it and it didn't leak or do anything bad for the 2+ years i drove it afterwards.

i'd go every 5,000 with a thicker conventional oil if it's that old.

pump/resovroir is probably "Breathing" when it gets hot.

Make sure the seal in that cap it tight, i wondered what the fuck was going on with mine so i put some red high temp silicone on it and it fixed it
Thank fuck p/s is easy on the falcon, jeep and calais.
9/10 its the filler cap leaking once it heats up.

yeah definitely go the thick conventional if its that old and that many k's

That's possible then. The level is pretty much exactly or almost exactly where I filled it to originally but the whole thing is covered in damp dirt.

>pump/resovroir is probably "Breathing" when it gets hot.
That was my other guess too but the caps on as tight as it can be.

>That was my other guess too but the caps on as tight as it can be.
check the rubber seal, i had to flip mine over and make sure it wasnt leaking with that silicone sealant.

Alternatively the rack itself could be leaking which isnt uncommon

if i recall right its on 20-50w. is that thick enough or should i get thicker? if you can get thicker, i dont actually know how thick you can go.

is there anything wrong with using semi-synthetic over conventional though? even possibly fully synthetic?

I doubt it's the rack, the reservoir is pretty far from it and is pretty high up. It's definitely the reservoir. But since the level is fine and it's only getting a little dirty, I don't really care.

might be a bit too thick 20-50w will have trouble lubing some engines at higher rpm in the corners.

You COULD use oil stabilizer but you really shouldnt.

Just normal 15-40 should be more than enough for a older engine unless its absolutely rooted and clearances are all fuqt.

What engine and car m8?
Ok check the back of the pump and the front near the pulley

Anyone else getting gateway errors when posting threads?

yep Veeky Forums servers been fucked for ages

ive tried the old google dns trick not working either.


when i say ages i mean since i got here like a decade ago

that's probably good enough.
not really, semi or full synth are good for engines with low tolerances like newer euro/jap stuff or modified cars. that being said you can use semi or conventional in such car's as long as it meets the ratings for additives etc.
semi or conventional is also much cheaper than fully synthethic. up to you really, but that many k's i'd really go a thicker conventional or semi like what youre using.

I have never had a problem in all the years I've been here until this gook took over, when moot was in charge the worst you had was a 30 minute crash

if you can weld, have a lift and a mate and a slab to give said mate afterwards, it can be pretty easy. There's an old mcm video before they got shit about how to perform one.

A 5.7 theoretically SHOULD fit the 6.0, provided it's from the cat back (not sure if the whole exhaust system would fit). If the exhaust was restricted from the factory, wouldn't you want to go better than cat-back though?

I'd check a holden forum, maybe ls1.com.au or something.

alright i'll stick to semi-synth and pretty thick. i checked the oil just now since the car was running about 2 hours ago and the oil seems to appear more like a dark brown than black, so its not too bad.

i'll still do it next week anyway.

>want to change oil at home
>car too low to get under to do the sump
>then realized nowhere to dispose of the oil
what do lads?

>invest in a jack or park it somewhere you can get under
>drain it
>pour in to milk bottles
>dump at local supercheap

Oh, I forgot to mention, by "lift" I mean any way to get your car up to a decent height safely. You don't need a full on lift. Just go to an exhaust shop. And although a 5.7 would fit, unless you're getting it for free, I wouldn't bother.

Cat deletion isn't necessary. You don't need to pump out fuck-off fumes into the ozone to squeeze out the extra 5hp. Just get a less restrictive muffler, or all-out delete it.

Just save up a bit. A couple weeks savings will leave you happy with the exhaust, as opposed to having to get it properly done later. You shouldn't need to spend any more than $1000.

>dump at local supercheap
do you mean they have a disposal bin there or are you just being cheeky and telling me to dump it there?

>mfw found some more home brew that i had the bright idea to put some more raw sugar (a tablespoon) in and left it for a year and it bottle-set into like beer wine, its all sweet and bubbly and went right to my head i cant feel my face

dunno what the fuck gook moots doing but the image servers and shit is also fucked

Not sure about all but my local one has a bin outside, you dump as much was you want in it as long as the container is less than 5L

Cunts help please.

strawpoll.me/12252479

Why can't I pick none of the above?

>supercheapauto.com.au/services/in-store/oil-recycling/

nah their all shit

FALCADORE
Ass
Lol
Crunk
Angle
Rank
Dicks
Ore
Or
Reeee

that sounds alright then, thanks dude.

one last thing with changing oil though. when you fill up, do you have to account for oil filling up where the filter is? i know the exactly amount my engine takes but i've read you need to also account for the filter too.

I have spent a long time compiling this list mate, if you have another recommendation drop it in the thread like Fatcunt here did.

I honestly would but all my hellatyte JDM friends would exclude me from their cock handling cruises, and I want my cock handled.

Imported low mileage S15.

Look up how much it takes and put about 300ml to half a litre less then start it, give it about 2 minutes all sink down from the head then check and adjust

as long as the dipstick if completely covered in oil before starting it then you will be fine, turn it off as soon as the oil pressure light goes away. make sure the car is level too

KE with engine swap (duh) or FC

>I honestly would but all my hellatyte JDM friends would exclude me from their cock handling cruises, and I want my cock handled.
their not your mates.

Real friends dont care what u drive

so run it for two minutes? and running it with about half a litre less than max wont do anything bad?

im a nervous cunt about this kind of thing.

They wouldn't mate, but I wouldn't mind being included in their car shit too they're all nice blokes and cluey with wrenching, so if I ever needed a hand working on shit I know I've got cunts that know what they're doing and can source me a shitton of parts.

I mean, it's no big deal with a falcodore, but still the inclusion is a nice thing.

say your car takes 5 litres, put about 4.5l in then start it IF the dipstick is showing that it is either on full or overfilled, turn it off as soon the oil light goes away, if the light doesn't go away then turn it off and double check your sump plug and filter

allow a minute or two for the oil to settle back in the sump before checking it, saves you getting a false reading

when you remove the filter, wipe the filter housing clean and make sure the gasket came off, smear oil on the new filter gasket and put it on as tight as you can by hand only

check and adjust until it's in the full mark, also fill it on level ground or you will get a false reading and overfill, if your car uses copper washers then get a new one

it's easy as fuck m9, if you overfill a little then just crack the sump plug and let a little out

Forgot to say, if your car uses canister oil filters instead of spin ons you might need special tools depending on the cap type, but other then that it's the same shit

you get O rings with the filter and you replace them all

what car btw?

Do you want a daily or a fast car, or both?

Anyways i'd get one of these desu
Mazda 3 SP25/MPS,
SS ute,
Xr6t,
WRX,
r32/33 skyrine (insurance for these are high because everyone steals them)

dunno, would not pick anything you have chosen imo.

Just how JDM tyte do you want to be here? Something regular like the S15 or do you something a little hairier?

I recommend an N14 GTi-R. Like a mini-GT-R; AWD and SR20 in a reasonably lightweight shell. It's got JDM cred and it's a Group A homologation model.

Is posting fucked on here as well?

The whole website is fucked, the owner is broke

I won't be surprised if Veeky Forums goes offline this year

Here is tolerable actually. Back on pol its fucked. Nothing goes through.

Who woulda thunk anyone could be worse than fucking moot

If he's looking at Jap crap the XR6T and SS (especially the Falcon utes) probably wouldn't be as ideal for Jap shitbox activities like mountain driving or hardpark-and-jerks.

3 MPS is a good one, and probably cheaper than a WRX to insure. Skidlines are cop magnets but if he's not living around ethnics the theft issue might be a little less prevalent. Don't quote me on that, though.

Nah, gookmoot has cash aplenty. He's just cut back on bandwidth and pretending to be broke so cunts buy passes.

>Back on pol its fucked. Nothing goes through.
Reckon it's a traffic issue or are (((they))) up to something?

Nah just traffic. /pol/ was on the news recently so it happens.

Fair enough. Apparently they've been covering up all sorts of shit with that university riot in the States, so it wouldn't surprise me if they wanted to black out the board of peace too.

The states are fucked. Let them burn

I'd love a good older WRX or an R33, but sadly this poor little cunt here still has to go through his green Ps still, (plenty of practice driving around since I was 16 but just procrastinated like an inner-city fuckwit does and I'm now 23) so if I wanna go N/A I'd rather something on the smaller/fun side until I'm on opens. The LandCruiser being an exception because offroad capabilities.

Honestly they'd probably prefer me to be older, as they all driver

It's just Commiefornia. Once the scum hit redneck territory they'll be fucked, for just as the bogans are the guardians of Aussie culture the rednecks will stop madness from fully overtaking the States.

Is this just your typical crybaby shit, or is the USA actually heading towards some bad shit?

civil war 2.0?

>Honestly they'd probably prefer me to be older, as they all driver

God no, I'm just meming. Most of america seems to be fine. Its just cali as says.

Its just fun to watch the fireworks from groups who didnt get what they want.

lol i made that mistake.

Get whatever bloody car you want.

Unlikely. They pushed over the metaphorical retarded kid in the sandpit. It was an easy victory for them, but not one they could hope to replicate under anything other than the most ideal (read; vastly outnumbering their unarmed and cowardly leftie uni student opponents with minimal police interference) circumstances.

that rear dish with that shit low profile is aids

Fuck you Fatcunt you neckbearded doublenigger, it's the bogan-spec aesthetic.

Goes dark cause its working.
Change every 10k
5k for diesel.

Always change when u buy car. Regardless of what the seller says

Just wait for supercheap 20% off sale and buy heaps of the oil you need

Just beware if the eBay seller is Dandy exhausts. All their stuff says guaranteed fit but it generally fuckin isn't.

Cunts.

Buy a vz commodore mate. Sump is forward of front axle line and oil filter on top of engine.

Local tip usually has oil battery and steel recycling area for free

haahahah

looks like a rat rod ate a mad max restoration

Love MPS's, I wish I got one, I got the SP25 instead, still quick but MPS's look nicer imo, I just don't like the black with red interior in all the cars. I'll probably change out SP25 stuff for MPS stuff for better handling.

If you're still on P's don't buy a car, worst choice. Wait until you are off your P's then buy something nice & fast.

>>'Strayan Scenic as fuck
>>'Strayan Cucked as fuck

autistic op edition*

>oil filter on top of engine.
Alloytec oil filter is the easiest fucking thing to change, only problem is forcing it past the loom they conveniently placed straight over the top of it

That's not a HSV.

>he mad

Nah, like to point out how autistic Falcunt is (y)