QTDDTOT

What did old air cooled 911s do for cabin heat? There was no coolant to warm up a heater core. Did they use the oil cooler as a heater core? What about the older ones that didn't have oil coolers either?

From the last thread
>My car has D and OD, and im pretty sure both are fucked. D seems to be slipping from 2nd to 3rd, but OD doesnt seem to slip at all. When driving in OD the engine stutters from high 1k to low 2k rpms, but only occasionally like it has to breathe every few seconds. That doesnt happen in D. Already suspected it has a vacuum leak, and that the leak is the cause of the stuttering, but why would it only happen in OD? Should i just get the trans rebuilt/buy a new one?

WHERE BUY TIRES
Should/would buy from offerup?
Or just buy new from retailer?

Buy new from retailer, dipshit. Never buy used tires, you don't know if they've been abused or not.

any place with above average deals?

WHY IS THERE AN ANNOYING TICKING COMING FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CAR WHEN THE ENGINE IS ON
I drive a 528i

what is the best degreaser to clean the cloth seats? does it also remove the oder smell?

>528i

Helpful

at least tell us the decade

What's a good car for a cross country road trip?

cheap preferably
I have a '98 civic lx

all highways or backroads? Camping? # of people? Too many variables

four people probably
probably mostly camping at rest stops and saving for hotels in the cities

and highways

i dunno what's the insurance is like in Ottawa but if it's anything like Toronto I'd probably pick based on insurance rates rather than the car if you don't really give a shit about the car itself.

if I remember right, Corollas are as bad with insurance as Civics. It might be better to go for a Mazda3 instead or even the full-size sedan of those brands based on the insurance savings alone. We pay the cost of the car if not more with annual insurance costs here anyways without collision/comprehensive, how cheap the car costs does not matter.

keep in mind this is based expectations where 300-400 canadian pesos a month is the norm for a male driver.

When it dies do all the electronics die too?
Or are they still on bright with a good strong crank?

do pullies for stuff like p/s pumps and alternators need maintenance? should i grease them up or anything while i have the belt off?

At those prices, it's cheap enough to just buy and examine their quality once they get to you. If it's shit, sell it for the same price on EBay - caveat emptor - and make them yourself.

This is only if you've got time to waste waiting on shit from Aliexpress - that shit takes a month to get to you unless you pay out the ass for expedited shipping.

They would pull in fresh filtered air from the outside, then using a fan blow the air near the rear engine to warm it up, then blow it up to the dash using a system of ducts out into the cabin. The system was super inefficient and would barley blow out warm air on super cold days.

That stuttering could be caused by the transmission searching for the correct gear at your current speed. Get it to a tranny shop and have them test it before deciding if you want to rebuild/replace it

Quick tick or slow tick. Like a fluttering?

Lights, blinkers, and bluetooth still work
At least last I checked I haven't driven it in a week
Last I tried to start it, allegedly it starts now, it cranked but now its apparently starting up

Mini Van then, one with captain chairs.

Generally it's OK. Some motorbike oil has special additives for wet clutches, and some stuff doubles as tranny fluid.
VW, Porsche, Chevy, and probably most others, used a system in which hot air was pulled off the exhaust. (The air runs across the exhaust in a similar way to a heater core). Very ineffective heat.
Generally, no.

Sounds like faulty wiring mate. That's a right pain in the ass to diagnose

Alternator and most PS pumps don't have greased pulleys. They are attached to a shaft that run through an internal bearing. You would need to disassemble the whole alternator to get to the bearings inside. Some vehicle have serviceable tensioner pulleys but it would be easer to just replace them.

yeah thats one, of like twelve, things googling got me too
The shop seems to think its my security system but fuck me sideways I need my car pretty bad

When it dies, it is like a stutter/stall or just suddenly dead?

As far as I can tell its sudden death

Sounds electrical. Could be dozens of things, security system failing, intermittent sensor failure, ECU or BCM failure. It sucks but you may need to take it to a auto electric shop and have it diagnosed, which is pricey

so a squirt of 1lube on the pulley shafts wouldn't be a good idea?
none are making any noise, but it's a 20 y/o car and it looks like even the alternator is OE

No it wouldn't. That lube would pick up dirt over time, then cause friction, then premature failure.

My car's belt was squeaking, used a vacuum cleaner hose to identify the location and it was where the belt first comes in contact with the water pump pulley. Confirmed by spraying some water on it, and the squeak stopped for a few moments. Belt wasn't badly worn, replaced it anyway, squeak gone. A couple weeks later it's now squeaking again.
Is my water pump on its way out and the pulley doesn't want to turn as smoothly as it should? Did I get a shit belt?

You may have under tightened the belt. Go back and tighten it a little more

neat, thanks
definitely will service the tensioner pulley

Only some are serviceable, some are strictly replaceable. Look up if you make and model have a serviceable one

>body side moulding
>Color-matched body side mouldings help protect door panels from scratches, dents and chipping.
how and what the heck

i think it looks dumb too

>buying noname chinashit cam gears and timing belts
enjoy your top end rebuild

how hard is it to remove A/C from a car? It's been broken since I got the car, and it doesn't get hot enough here to really need A/C
I don't think it has any coolant in the loop anyway

no need to remove it, just get a shorter accessory belt

So I'm hearing a clunking sound from underneath my saab 9-3 when driving over bumps and I think it's probably just a bad bushing in one of the suspension component's, what's a good way to identify exactly which bushings need to be replaced?

it's a 99 grand cherokee i6 if that matters
I can't really find any info on a a/c bypass belt

You may not need a belt. Does the AC belt loop around any other components than the crankshaft pulley?

5mge? Cressida? Possibly x6 or x7 chassis?

...

By listening and a partner. Find the minimum speed you need to create the problem, narrow down the side and if its front or back. Then inspect the noisy side. See if you can find anything obvious. Then jack up the car and see if you can create the sound by lifting and turning the wheel.

To be honest it sounds like a blown shock/strut

you would just have to buy a shorter belt that matches the same dimensions
>google.com/search?q=99 grand cherokee i6 ac belt path&biw=1360&bih=609&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj6072ulf3RAhWCj1QKHZ6GAsgQsAQIJg

In turbocharged cars, is the turbo always feeding air into the engine? I just don't understand what happens when you aren't driving in "boost".

Ive owned a 5mge, factory 5 speed, mx63 & later swapped it with a 6mge. In my own experience in tinkering with the maf sensors ive gotten from the junkyard. I wouldny reccomend opening it up cause since their pretty old and fragile. I can tell you tho that there is adjusment on the airflow sensor and on the throttle body. It should be on top on the side youll see a spot where you can put a flat head to it and adjust i wouldnt mess with it too much unless you can have more precise measurements as i was fuel cutting at one point cause i must have open it up too much. Hopefully this helps.

Yes the turbo is always being spun even at idle, and feeding the engine but its equal to the air coming in from outside the system. When you raise the RPM's up the turbo spins faster which adds "boost" to the intake manifold, thus raising the PSI higher in the intake manifold than it would be without the turbo

Whats a good site that I can find restoration project cars or untouched barn finds to work on?

In regards to ebay or craigslist, which state closest to NJ/NY has the highest concentration of barn finds or project cars?

Also, Forza 3 vs Beam NG

Any good car building games? Not mechanic simulator, that shit was so fucking gay. Additionally, has anyone here gone to UTI, Wyotech, or even UNOH Automotive? Is it worth it?

as a novice mechanic, what is the best cheap car to buy to use as trial and error in the interest of learning how to do all of my own maintenance?

Late 90's Early 2000's Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla

bringatrailer.com
My Summer Car
UTI is shit. Wyotech is slightly better but a huge waste of money. Just take a mechanic course at your local community college.

Honda Civic

I have one.
>clean maf
>clean contacts leading up to maf
>clean circuit board on maf
>car much, much better under throttle
>sputters around at 3-400 rpm at idle now
Why?

I need help from a kind suspension-fag. I had my car lowered a while back and now I feel like it handles worse than stock. I had it aligned like you're supposed to but now I feel that there is a lot more body roll than there was before and it oversteers instead of the sharper turning I was used to.

Any opinions on this?

You can ship to shop to install off tirerack

How did you lower it user?

New eibach prokit springs and koni shocks. It wasn't a big drop or anything and the ride feels fine for the most part except when I'm turning corners. Steering is slower, it over steers and it rolls a lot more. I'm not even a fast driver either. I take my corners normally.

My car is a regular 2008 Mazda 3.

Going to look at e30 325e tomorrow... Can I takumi in this? I've read a chip can increase the revs or swapping the head with the i can make big gains. How hard are the heads to come by?

After replacing the seals in my power steering my cars decided to die at low RPMs and theres a 'whirring' noise which my local valvoline has informed me as most certainly my power steering
After some chat with another Veeky Forumsfag i have determined it is my power steering sensor which has died on me.
On my car the sensor isnt sold individual of the pump, so i can either go to a junk yard and hope i get a sensor that will work for probably $20, or i can say fuck it and buy a pump, which costs $106 at autozone (pic related) which I believe has the sensor with it (I'll have to call the store to confirm this since their website doesnt say)
Also should i pick up a $10 inline filter

i recently got a 04 forester xt, and some problems have popped up. once the engine is warmed up and the rps drop to about 650-800, intermittently every the car starts shaking. its not extremely violent or anything, but its very noticeable and not right. also in 4th gear, when i go slow on the acceleration after 2k rpm it doesnt want to increase rpm and the engine feels like its shuddering and having a really hard time until i either step on it more or let go on the throttle

what the hell guys? i changed the air filter and cleaned the MAF yesterday but it didnt seem to do anything.

Any experienced detailers in the thread?
I was wondering if it would be worth it to polish and clay bar my shitbox, because the clear coat is half gone anyways. I understand trying to detail this car would be like putting diamonds on shit, but it bothers me seeing all these tiny scratches that could be polished out

OP here, 5mge yeah

>UTI
>UnTrained Idiots

Do you have to balance your tires? Can I do it at home, and if so, how?

How can I convince my Dad to get a used car?

balancing your wheels eliminates vibrations. atleast vibrations caused by the wheels.
you cant do that at home, but most carshops will do this for some small bucks

Anyone know anything about DAI Alloy wheels? I was looking at some from them but I've read they used to be low quality but now are good? Will they crack? Is it okay to get them?

Is it fine if I just rinse my car at a coin operated self wash during the winter once a week or should I go the extra mile and actually wash it thoroughly once a week?

Anybody here install aftermarket horns?

I'm strongly considering installing a La Cucaracha horn, but I'll only do it if I can install it myself. I'm pretty handy with electronics.

what the fuck happened to my hand brake? I guess I need like a new assembly or cable system? I am pretty sure it still works (haven't actually moved my car yet), as I can put it back in the down position.

Is this a hard repair? I only have a basic tool set

tell him over half the equity is lost in the first five years of vehicle ownership
>it's good money sense

>canada tier wheels
beauty, eh, but not as good as OE you hoser or disposable as steelies so take off

whatever you do, concentrate on the undercarriage

Unplug your horn(the actual horn part) attach horn you want to use to something on car, ground it, plug wire from your original horn into new horn. That's how I installed the awooga horn on my Toyota camry

you guys are making me want to install an aftermarket novelty horn on my shitbox. I do use the horn all the time, at least once a day just because I like how it annoys people kek

looks like the plastic collar/housing around the button broke;
confirmed if you can still use it
>hard repair?
to replace a brake cable, yes
you can probably accomplish with hand tools plus a jack and stands, expect to be frustrated
make sure the replacement cable even has the broken part
>protip: if it still works, leave it and try to find a new plastic housing from a junkyard instead

would an n54 with gods wrench and blessings be as reliable as a 2jz tuned to fucking hypercar power?

yeah I just took my car around the block, it still works, and upon further inspection it does look like that button part broke off the housing. I guess it's purely an aesthetic thing, right?

yeah, but the button might catch on the lever housing so at the very least i'd nig rig a black duct tape collar for it
t. nig rigs everything with duck tape

alright I'll nig something up, thanks for the advice

Where can i find a low low cost car to just buy? No down payment or anything.

Autotrader.

I need a louder horn
Too many fuck faces not using blinkers whilst cutting people off at 60 mph

>turn interior fan on in car
>belt starts squealing
>turn fan off, drive like normal
>get back in car after pit stop
>turn fan on
>no squealing

What?

any nice cars under 80k that a 6'7" guy will be comfortable in?
I've been looking at a 911 but any other options would be great

Well that's why I'm asking here if anyone ever dealt with no name china stuff. A lot of stuff on ali is also sold on eBay.

Look where ur belts are and find the ac conpressor its usually held on by 3 or 4 bolts. Then figure out how to get to it. Remove p/s pump, alternator if they are in the way. U might need to take out ur radiator. Just disconnect the hoses for that and drain. Then unplug the fans n pull out. Put a screwdriver into ur AC line valves to ensure its pressure free. U might have sum ac pump oil comeout. Thats normal. Disconnect the lines from the compressor to the evaporator in the dash. Take off compressor and replace with an ac delete pulley. Put everything back on and tighten ur belts. Twist the belts so they can only twist at a 90° angle at the longest point then adjust from there if u need to. If u want to remove the evaporaor u may need a plastic box to replace the evap to go from the blower to the matrix. U can get the box thing from a non ac version of ur car or online. Or just leave the evap in. Or u could just pull the belt off the pulley if the belt doesnt run anything. About $40-60 fod the pulley and a 4 hour job for someone with no experience.

What does Veeky Forums use to clean black cloth seats? They're not particularly dirty but they look faded and really dull, I'd like to restore that dark black color

Dude let me kno wen u find out. I tried that spray paint for fabric and it takes alot to do the job but then u have to redo it later and still it looks beat to death. Honestly would be cheaper to get seat covers than that spray shit. Works okay on the carpet tho so theres that.

Have you tried laundry detergent yet? They have some that are specifically for bringing back black in your clothes, try and mix up some of that to use on your seats.

Maybe just a small section that you can't see too well to test it first.