You get one engine to swap into any 25+ year-old car. What do you choose?

You get one engine to swap into any 25+ year-old car. What do you choose?
>pic related
>2.3L Ecoboost
I think it'd make for a fun ride with some suspension bits thrown in.

Buddy of mine knew a guy who tried to ecoboost swap a fox body, last he heard he still hadnt got it running right.

New engines rely too much on the billion fucking computers and sensors embedded EVERYWHERE

Its really not that difficult, you just swap in every computer that ECU needs to get inputs from. THe only exception is antitheft, which you can delete with almost any tuning software package on any american car.

Someone already did what I'd want to do, throw an Ecotec into a Cosworth Vega.

Not to jack thread but I am looking at an 88 turbo tbird this week... Anything to watch out for? What's a reasonable price (listed at $3,200). Says all its needs is exhaust manifold gasket and brakes done soon. 187k miles

If you live in Tennessee I'll sell you one. 383 Stroker, Holley carb, MSD ignition and a bunch of other bullshit I don't know what is.

Cali senpai. post some pics tho

Shit. Been trying to get rid of this thing since the owner died. No pics right now since I'm not at home. I've thought about pulling the engine and putting it in a first gen mustang since I hate the way the thunderbird looks.

>Anything to watch out for?
Rust.

One of the this-kills-the-fox locations is at the bottom of the strut towers. Pic related. You have to check both sides and poke at the area on the wheel side on top of the subframe rail to be sure but is it's anything like the pic on the engine side then there's no point in going further.

Rocker boxes are critical support members so rust there is bad but easier to fix. Rust between the rocker boxes and the rear torque boxes where the rear lower control arms connect isn't economically repaired either so I'd just move on from one with perforating rust there.

Pic related.
572 hemi.

Vortec 4.3

>brakes

Forgot about this. These things have an early ABS system called Teves Mark II that's virtually unsupported now. In general the brakes should have a firm pedal feel similar to hydroboost. If a rapid application of the brakes results in an extremely hard pedal for a second or two along with a brake warning light then it probably needs an accumulator ball. Key On, Engine off and pump the brakes a few times until the you hear the motor activate. Should take at least three applications. More is better. Motor should not run more than a few second. More than ten and something internal is wrong and the system is on short time. Good luck finding someplace to rebuild one now. You can change to vacuum brakes but you do have to play games with the brake lines. Plenty of info on that online.

I actually really like that idea OP

Same idea, but I would love the 3.5 EcoBoost with the dual turbos (essentially the SHO Taurus power plant) in '85ish Ford Ranger.

Kaase Boss 9 with 4 bolt aluminum dart block. Either put it into a 69 mustang or a 79 bronco

E R E C T

DISI Turbo

i'd put an EE20 into pic related and roll coal on faggots with my fartbox.

>VW Golf I
>R26B

It would be overpowered as fuck and rev up to 10.500 and make 930hp.
Also the rotary scream would scare people to hell.

honda b16b in 1990 NA miata

>185 hp @ 8500 rpm in 2300 lb rwd roadster

pic slightly related

>the most reasonable swap here

not really

its a stupid one too since people have swapped in F20s

Wich F20s?
F20A
F20B
F20C(most likely)

yes F20C

I dont know why anyone would swap a fwd engine into a Miata when F20C and F22C exists

Well, a F20C might change the ballance a bit and increase fuel consumption.
A b16b wouldn´t change much, except for power.

what theres not that much difference

>B6ZE................184KG/407lb
>F20C................209KG/460lb

those are both with transmissions connected

a B16B weighs 407 with a transaxle so it will be more with a transmission

there's something nice about swapping in a superior engine of the same displacement

the car would feel oem, just better

In a FWD car the transmission contains the differential, therefore it weighs more.

Oh lord these things are the fucking worst. I have that system in my Saab and I still can't tell whether the new accumulator has made it any better. Whenever I step into a new, vacuum boosted car, I pull an emergency stop when I go on the brakes the first few times because the Teves pedal is so much harder.

Protip: The wabco STC2784 accumulator, originally made for the second gen Range Rover, fits perfectly and is the cheapest option these days. $100 or so if you go for the cheapest place (got mine from a place called LRDirect). Just in case someone needs one.

Why would you want to mess with the engine in the turbo coupe?
Its pretty much a perfect engine

Ford = Fix it again tony

Corolla GTS (AE86) with a 2ZZ-GE from the mid-00s Corolla XRS

Probes are Mazdas

god those acronyms people come up with for all the makes are so fucking lame

Oh god that sounds horrible... Thanks for response m8

Hard top SW20 with the Voodoo V8.

Properly swapped with slight firewall movement forward and trunk removal, along with some suspension bits, brakes, good wheels and tires, and appropriate aero and the car would be a force to be reckoned with and be incredible to drive.

Honestly though the 3stge can make 500+ hp on stock internals.

...pretty sure that spells Fiat...

sc400 with the lfa v10 and a manual swap

The V8 yamaha made for volvo.
I want that engine for my E30.

Or the toyota v8. especially the older gen without the fly by wire bullshit.