Oil pressure: 0

>oil pressure: 0

>voltage 20V

>heater stops blowing heat.

>shift to reverse from a standstill
>hear a grind instead of a clunk

>wurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

>crank ignition
>CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK

>start car
>drive off
>everything is fine

>dundundundundundunddundundundundundundundundundundundun

>check engine light on

>rev miata at qt
>LOLOLOLOLOLOL

>Engine revolutions dropping twice as fast as they usually do

fuckfuckfuck

>crank ignition
>bell sound

>check tires
>one is low
>fill it up
>audible hiss

>Turn car on
>Idle won't drop below 1,500rpm

>driving on the highway
>metallic groaning noise coming from the rear
>hit large bump
>noise stops but the car starts shaking

DINGDINGDINGDING

>up to temperature
>idling
>oil pressure: 120

> go to start car
> alarm goes off

>driving on freeway
>slightly pulling to the right
>Gradually getting worse

>Automatic car shifts to neutral instead of next gear

>fill tank
>gauge reads empty, fuel light on

>get into boost
>heat shield rattles and sounds like detonation

>buckle seatbelt
>belt warning comes on

>Rattling cat
>Cut it off

>tie rod stud falls out of bushing

>snap
>clunk

>go over speedbump
>loud clunk
>only has 11,000 miles on it
>can't tell if it's supposed to sound that way
;_;

>put car in reverse
>moves foward

>Check engine light turns off for no apparent reason.

Then proceed to blow torch and hammer on studs for 30 mins?

had this happen before. bent selector rod from a rock

The garage fairies fixed it for you overnight. It was probably the O2 sensor.

I hate when this happens

>downshifting
>vrmm
>vrmmmmmmGRRINDD

>CEL
>code is P0420
>catalytic converter efficiency below threshold

>RPMs decide to take a shit while going down a hill
>car stalls

>rear main seal is starting to leak

>gear whine getting louder and louder

>starts to rain
>water pump begins to leak
>no rain
>no leak

>o2 sensor throws code
>replace
>code goes away
>comes back
>look closer at exhaust mani
>missing and loose bolts

>rolling in second
>take foot off gas
>car has a fucking nervous breakdown

>tire pressure sensor only goes off in stressful situations

crownon that you?

>code 420
>dude
>lacquer thinner
>LMAO
who sez engies have no sense of humor

>radiator side tanks leaking
>put if off for another day
>another day comes
>not leaking

True story, this happened to me in the middle of the Mojave desert on a dirt road.

>Be me, 18 fresh out of high school
>Driving across country in January
>Decide to see the Kelso dunes in the Mojave Preserve
>Just changed the oil in my 1997 Jeep Cherokee XJ the day before
>Dirt road is really bumpy, oil pressure gauge goes to 0.
>literalpanic.exe
>I'd be fucked to the fourth dimension if this was serious
>eh it's probably just the shitty oil pressure sensor unit that I've had replaced already
>pop the hood with the engine running and knock around the sensor a bit
>good as new

>drive cycle complete
>ECU does not detect the issue
>CEL can come off

>car rolling at 5mph
>stalls
>go in reverse
>stalls

>cooler starts blowing heat

Trips of truth, a code all Subaru owners are familiar with.

>automatic

>go over a speedbump
>CU-CLUNK

>there's a ton of fluid on the ground
>none of your fluid levels have gone down

>Press the clutch down
>It stays down

>smoke coming from air vents

How my grandmother approaches speed bumps

>Short "rail sleeper" speed bump
>Slows down to a crawl as she approaches
>Slams the accelerator right before the bump
>KDUNK-CHRK
>"Oh my goodness!"

>park car on hill
>pull ebrake, put it in park/neutral with parking brake engaged
>take foot off brake pedal
>car begins creeping down the hill

Sounds like someone forgot the ebrake

>burnt wire smell

>park/neutral
Uh

This happened when i first started wrenching
>changing oil
>thats a weird plug
>oh well
>take it out
>oil isnt supposed to be red
>shit

Turn the AC off

Yes, park in automatic, neutral in manual.

It was specifically mentioned as pulled.

>sudden large power loss coming back home, still enough to limp back home and park
>sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders
>plug my chink OBD2 reader
>read codes
>misfires on cyl 1 and 3 + general misfire code
>ok i'll just clear the codes, go for a short drive, log data and see what happens
>engine starts running smoothly as soon as the codes are cleared

This happened a couple of months ago and the issue seems fixed. Still have no clue what could have gone wrong.

>weird ticking noise on startup
>valve clearnce check in 2000km
>maybe need to remove both camshafts to replace buckets

>neutral in manual
Time to kill yourself lad

>going along as usual
>sudden puff of smoke coming from the vents

>downshift
>mechanicly overrev engine about 200rpm
>but it is a Toyota engine with forged internals and short stroke

>On my way from Washington to southern New Mexico
>In my truck with the bed full and hauling my car on a trailer also full of stuff
>Get just south of Albuquerque
>Merging onto highway
>High rpm shifts because heavy load
>Get to 70mph
>Check gauges light on
>lolnooilpressure
>Pull over
>Engine not ticking, oil level close enough to normal, no sign of low oil pressure
>Keep driving the last 4 hours or so constantly paranoid about the engine exploding
Oil pressure sender crapped out. That was a shit my pants moment because I didn't know how I was gonna get all my stuff and the truck hauled the last bit of the trip. Plus I didn't have a house yet at my destination so I was going to be staying in a hotel for a few days.

>be me
>never drive fast
>driving on some backroads
>Roll onto throttle after hitting a curve within the lane
>Variable valve timing kicks in
>Hear spooling
>Feel power on the way
>Cars throws multiple warnings
>Boost gauge at 0 psi
> Smell oil outside car
>mfw

>just fixed compression bypass valve
>boast leak gone
>start accelerating hard
>no boost what so ever

>missed a gear in a miata
>hit ~10k rpm
>still running fine months later

>Fixing 6 liter turbodeezul inline 6 Mercedes engine from when the Cold War was still raging on
>Finish pumping out the air from the fuel system and crank the behemoth
>Cracracracracracracracracra
>PTFFffvroommMMMM
>MMaaaaaaaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAAA
>Shit my pants and fidget for a few seconds until I get my shit together, and finally find my Best Friend Plank, on whom I was counting for just this occasion
>Plank and I choke the raging iron monster until it huffs out it's last breath, for the time being
>Proceed to chillax for the next few minutes, shaking and practically deaf from exposed turbo spooling

Thank you, Plank

>car is incredibly jerky idling in 1st
>Perfectly smooth in 2nd

>drive through heavy snow
>alt belt start slipping
>everything dims

turbos do sound great when a diesel runs away

>driving down highway in rain
>see a broom in the road
>no time to avoid, i'll just drive over it
>all seems well
>get to destination
>go over speed bump
>hear a brushing sound
>mfw
>mfw i have no face

>idle drops from regular 400rpm to 250 for no reason

>avg fuel economy goes from 15.5L/100km to 17.5L/100km

>do a skid and diff doesn't lock

guess the car

That much is true

Weird Dodge Stratus

>never been able to get parking brake light on dash to shutoff
>get a quick drive thru car wash
>light shuts off

>crank engine
>oil light stays on for an extra 5 seconds
might as well chuck the car out now

...

>timing belt pulley getting louder by the week

>dad gets Civic with P0420 code
>cheaper to buy a wrecked Civic and swap out cats than it is to buy a new CA approved cat

>leaving your car in gear when its not on an incline
literally why?

>truck's parking brake no longer works
>turned out the parking brake can be adjusted from the lever
>constant accidental turning of the lever's handle loosened the parking brake
I was dreading having to do work to the parking brake.

do you lack basic comprehension skills?

Check the carburetor. The idle screw might be too high.

>put car in reverse
>slips the gear and just revs

>Go look at a diesel jag
>Start engine
>Idles at 3000rpm
>Redline is 5500rpm
>Owner says it's normal

Had this happen to me.
Luckly based volvo only took 3 screws start to finish to get to the heater core

this

>car leaks coolant
>find and fix leak
>still leaking from somewhere else

>No coolant in tank
>Engine don't overheat.

Clean your MAF and throttle body

Did it for me. The car would jerk back and forth for fucking ever whenever you took your foot off the gas in first or second.

>cold start
>engine warms to operating temp within 60 seconds

>Shut door
>Window clips B pillar

>oil pressure gauge drops to low at hot idle

>start engine
>okay for several second
>suddenly CLACK CLACK PING CLUNKCLUNKCLUNKCLUNK
>stop engine
>rest head on steering wheel
>sob profusely

>turn key for starter
>GRRRGRGRRRGGRRRNNNNDDD
>wtf
>clutch fully pressed to the floor
>try again
>starts without issue