Tools

>SK
>GearWrench
>Mack
>Kobalt(?)

Ingersoll Rand makes the impacts for most of the tool companies. you could probably get the same thing for less with a different logo on it.

>Some shit you get at sears then
Sears sold the Craftsman brand this January 2017 to Stanley Black & Decker. Sears is also selling the DieHard and Kenmore brands to try to avoid bankruptcy for another year.

Certainly Harbor Freight didn't need to buy Craftsman as it is good enough to cannibalize enough business for Craftsman to become a problem for Sears.

I have a kobalt torque wrench with 1/2" drive and it works great.

I used a torque wrench from O'Reilly's , whatever the brand is called. Uses it for my spark plugs on my 4.6 modular. The spark plugs were never spat out so I'm guessing it worked.

What are you using it for?
1/2" drive for head bolts and lugnuts- Pittsburgh is fine, gonna need replaced after about 100 uses for being our of spec.

1/2" drive - for specialty shiznit, get a GOOD one off a tool truck, Snap-On, Mac, Cornwell, etc.

3/8" drive for valve covers, spark plugs, etc. Just use a normal ratchet, the torque specs on most these things are more about not overtightening them.

I have the click type one. It works fine but I wouldn't trust it for engine building. The lock on the bottom kinda sucks. go for a better brand desu

This. I had my set if snap on sockets and 2 ratchets stolen and being a broke ass nigga right at that time I had to replace them with something and a buddy of mine have me a set of blue point sockets and a ratchet to use till I got my own shit again. I've used blue point ever since and can't see myself buying snap on again if there is something analogous from blue point or a dozen other brands

Yeah but there's no way black and decker already got their hands on the form factors and starting fucking shit up

You'll notice if you look at Snap-Ons financial reporting that they actually make chump change for profits because they dump so much back into R&D.
The real problem is you're buying from a Snap-On dealer not Snap-On itself.

You know companies never want to report profits because it's taxed 35% right?

>he just buys a new one for cheap with a coupon.
Just bring the broken one in and they'll give you a new one.

>You know companies never want to report profits because it's taxed 35% right?
Okay then they get in trouble with the IRS. So yes, they do report their profits.

>t. Snap On tool truck guy

I have a harbor freight torque wrench which I checked the calibration of with the aid of a snap on truck guy. It's off by about 10% so I set it to compensate and use it. I even used it the critical job tightening my head studs with my turbo 6 and haven't had any trouble.

>competing brand says your tool isn't working right
huh, well

>snap on
>competing with harbor freight
That's like saying Kia is competing with Bentley you tard.

Also they guy has a mobile calibrator and is a customer of a tuning shop I was doing some sidework for, he wasn't trying to sell me anything, just was curious how my cheapo torque wrench stacked up.

Go on amazon and buy a tekton torque wrench. They're nice. And they ratchet.

HF is hit or miss, really.

Some of their tools are absolutely fine and the only tool you'll ever need, others are shit that will barely last you through a job even if you use it properly.

Anyways on a totally different topic, anybody have any good ideas for a "soft case" tool box / way to organize your tools?

I'm gonna be living in an apartment where there's no work allowed in the complex (yeah fuck off I know, but the rent is fucking great for the area) so I need to make a sort of "guerilla tool kit" that I can just grab & go to do my shit in a friend's driveway or auto parts store parking lot. Juggling 15 big hard plastic cases ain't gonna cut it.

Basically like a backpack with some socket organizers in there, but maybe something a little more purpose built than a random jansport stuffed with tools...

I made a canvas wrap for my ratchets, sockets, and a few wrenches and other bits and pieces. It's similar to pic related but I just did my own sewing since the shits much cheaper. It doesn't carry everything but it's compact enough that I can roll it up and put the essentials in my trunk and not have them rattle around in a toolbox.

Keep your torque wrench in its original case though, don't put it in the wrap. Also wrap my breaker bar in the middle and boom, easy access, easy to carry, no clinking around.

Most of Veeky Forums would probably wind up with a needle sticking out of their dick if they tried to sew

SK is ok, no idea who sells them anymore though.
GearWrench is decent, certainly better than HF, but nowhere near Snap On
I assume you mean Mac, fairly similar to Snap On in price and quality, I'd rate them just below
I'd put Kobalt behind GearWrench, and their tool boxes suck worse then Craftsman

Then there's Cornell and Matco which are also good.

Kek, but it's really not hard. $20 in materials and tools and you can have it made in a few hours. The best part about making your own is that you can have the slots for the tools you want, and not finding tools to fit slots someone else made. It's also much cheaper. Sew at a table with your pants on so your dick and needle are separated by the table surface.

I've seen some Pelican type roll cases that have drawers in them, that works well, or one of these

...

well my jack from harbor freight just broke...

I might actually give this a try. I vaguely remember how to use a sewing machine. Maybe get a few of those "locking" socket holder thingies and sew in some elastic loops.

Good idea about the torque wrench too.

Hnnnnggg that's cool. Pelican is ungodly expensive though (I know from buying the for pistols and rifles) and I'd also maybe worry a little about someone seeing a pelican tool chest and assuming there's something reeeeeally good inside.

Yeah this is why you don't cheap out on your jack. Save your pennies my dude. Also since you seem 1.) alive and 2.) not that livid I'm gonna assume you were using jack stands so you get an Veeky Forums gold star regardless.

(or it wasn't supporting your car when it busted.)

>You know companies never want to report profits because it's taxed 35% right?

Creative accounting turns everything into a business expense. That requires breaking down the company into many small corporations. My big company does that on its factory floor. This set of machines is owned by ABC001, this set of tools owned by ABC002. The crane here is owned by ABC003. Etcetera.

Before you know it, a highly profitable company is actually running in the red (it isn't actually). So it won't pay taxes that year except on some things that cannot be avoided (no exemption).

Pictured is example of corporate income tax for a variety of profitable corporations.

>well my jack from harbor freight just broke...
>I'm gonna assume you were using jack stands

I bought a Tekton torque wrench last year and have used it a lot. Seems pretty good for the money.

i used my brothers 10-150 lbft torque wrench when i did my timing belt last november. worked fine.

No shit, i'm just sayin

>2017
>unironically using a breaker bar

I bet you use beam type torque wrenches, air powered drills, and a 20 tooth ratchet you disgusting fuck.

They're junk
If you want to go cheap just get a good beam style one.

for a click type you should go for crapsman or above

How are they junk?

My experience is with their 3/8 click type.
It's just very roughly made. The micrometer adjustment is misaligned so the collar says "0" while the marks on the body say you're between numbers.

If you care enough to use a torque wrench at all you might as well get a decent one.

I bought one for $10 with a coupon to torque the lug nuts on my wheels and i have to say it does the job but the torque wrench is garbage when i tried to set the right torque spec the handle part would get really hard and stuck not sure if mine is defective and i wouldn't trust the calibration either

>it does the job
>its garbage
Well which one is it

wut

A good breaker bar is pretty crucial to any good tool kit. Things get stuck, extra leverage is needed sometimes.

Also if you've ever let tire monkeys or dealer techs anywhere near your car
>HURR DURR WE DID A ROTATION FOR FREE PRAISE ME PRAISE ME SENPAI
your lugs are probably on too tight and a breaker bar is going to be needed to coax them back off

>feeding the tripfag

I've had 3 of just the 3/8th one and they all worked flawlessly

Why would you need 3 if the first one worked flawlessly?

one for work, the other for home, another for my friend

I was using jackstands, as you should, but I didn't get them from harbor freight
can't double down on stupid

I've worked as a tech for 5 years and can count on one hand the amount of time in my life I've used a breaker bar. Any half decent ratchet will break at the drive end before the pawls are damaged.

The only "advantage" a breaker bar has is low cost, but other than that they're just a relic in grandpa's toolbox.

Oh OK I thought you were talking about not needing any sort of extra leverage at all. So do you slip something over a shorter ratchet when needed, or do you have a super-long handle ratchet?

Yea I only really keep them in my kit specifically because they are cheap and simple. Both good things IMO, even though it may lack the full practicality of a ratchet.

(Also for what it's worth I do use a beam type hahaha. Only for inch-pound stuff. I have a good clicker for the rest.)

I prefer soft grip ratchets so I have them all in varying lengths. I think the last time I counted I had over 30 ratchets.

I have yet to encounter a situation where my 26 in 1/2 drive ratchet did not provide enough leverage. It breaks shit loose that an impact gun won't touch. If over 2 feet isn't enough leverage it's probably a good idea to step up to 3/4 or 1 inch drive anyways

>26 inch 1/2 drive

oooooo

and here I am swinging a breaker bar like a faggot

*poorfag hooting intensifies*

>I made a canvas wrap for my ratchets, sockets, and a few wrenches and other bits and pieces.
Did you use the extra large needle and thick synthetic thread which is almost as thick as kite string? Cotton thread gives way too easily.

I would have to sew by hand so the stitching will look amateurish as it is not straight like how a machine does it. But with a big needle, I can fit a big strong synthetic fiber thread through the eye of the needle.

>something a little more purpose built than a random jansport stuffed with tools..
Tools weigh a lot and the handle or shoulder strap on a normal backpack will eventually tear under the weight. You can opt to have two separate tool bags and that should be enough to carry the tools you need while parts and oil jug are in the backpack. So that makes three pieces. Tool bags don't slide around in the trunk as long as you have a rubber trunk mat. The ratchet/socket set are in their own container since they were purchased as a set. No need to repackage the ratchet/sockets.

Having a big roll out canvas mat of tools requires an area to spread out. With a tool bag, you take the tools you use and stand them on end in the tool bag so their handles stick out the opening. Makes it easy to grab. Tools lie sideways in the bag only when transporting. Thus, the toolbag serves as a prop to hold the tools vertical for easy grabbing.

I don't like large metal tool chests. That makes one single unit too heavy and its smooth bottom can slide around in a trunk denting things up. Pelican cases are too formal and inefficient for me. And people seeing you put one in your trunk may think you have a gun, so they may open your trunk at night.

I used bonded nylon thread with an appropriate needle by hand because it's too heavy to be used in a home sewing machine. Even by hand you can get a nice straight even stitch if you take your time, I wouldn't get caught up in how machine-like it looks unless you plan on carrying it to a fashion show as a handbag, it'll still look fine.

Make sure to use a bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread. A thicker thread isn't necessarily stronger if it's not bonded thread, so get a nice medium thickness bonded nylon and she'll be fine.

Which jack?

What percent chance will HF car stands try to kill me?

>Implying you have the balls to stick a jack handle over the end of your $800 96 tooth ratchet

...

This.. got my click style for $20 on Amazon.. fucking great tool with lifetime warranty.

Stupid question: can I use impact sockets in my ratcheting wrenches? Is there a reason I shouldn't or is it just that impact sockets cost more? I'd rather invest a few extra in an impact set and have less clutter so if they fit then I'll go with it.

>What percent chance will HF car stands try to kill me?
It's made of cast metal, so the chance of microcrystalline fractures is up to the purity of the metal. And as half-trolls would say, also the number of times you drop it on the floor.

>jackstands
>cast
nigga they're made of stamped steel sheet
and they aren't under that much stress unless you're putting them under a big rig

>Anyone ever use a Harbor Freight torque wrench?
All but one person that I know with torque wrenches uses Harbor Freight. So HF is quite successful at selling them.

snap on tools now before snap off bolts later

>: can I use impact sockets in my ratcheting wrenches?
No you'll break your wrench. It's the opposite of using a hand socket on a impact

>Anyone ever use a Harbor Freight
HF has killed the tool sales of most other stores in the area. The HF store is always full of people. Except for Lowe's and Home Depot, the other stores (Ace, independent, Sears) have almost no one in their tool sections. Sears has drastically cut back on what tools they sell too. It's so sad but it looks bad for Craftsman's lifetime replacement warranty because there will be no replacements when those lines are ended.

Yes. I do it all the time. Impact sockets are heavier and thicker than chrome sockets so there are places that they will not be able to be used, but rarely do I ever use a 1/2 drive chrome socket.

If you're wanting one socket set to do everything check these out.

This one

So that's the Harbor Freight floor jack that was mentioned as breaking? At what point did it stop working? After the car was lifted to the max height and the seal gave way? Or it simply kept on leaking and wouldn't pump up at all?

harborfreight.com/3-ton-steel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-68048.html

Thanks lad, exactly what I wanted to know.

The difference between normal sockets and impact sockets is that impact sockets are much harder and less flexible. This keeps them from acting like the springs in a flywheel and evening out the impacts, which would defeat the purpose of using the impact wrench. The downside to that increased hardness is that they're more brittle, which actually makes them more likely to break than normal sockets. If you exclusively use your sockets with ratchets, you're better off with the cheaper and longer-lived normal sockets. If you ever use an impact wrench, you should use impact sockets or you'll greatly reduce the effective torque of the tool.

Just want to say that Wright Tools are >9000 times better than Snap-On.

Honestly Snap-On is basically Kobalt tier. Not bad for casual use but it isn't worth what they charge in the least.

It's literally the exact opposite. Impact sockets are much softer and pliable than chrome sockets because they are designed to withstand violent impact forces from a rattle gun. Chrome sockets will eventually shatter on an impact but impact sockets on a ratchet are just a minor inconvenience due to size and weight.

Wright is ok, but you're kidding yourself if you think they're significantly better than SO. Wright grip wrenches play second fiddle to SO FDP wrenches.

What set is that?

Fourth on this. Cheap as hell and good quality.

I command the name fags and arise and help me pls
>memeR2 blew a head gasket when it got stolen
>I need a torque wrench to do this job to continue
Will horror freight torque wrench work? And what company makes head bolts for the 4age? Pls help

yup
I'm assuming after I lowered my car after finishing up the exhaust, because I tried to jack it back up to check for leaks and but it doesn't pump anymore
only had it around a yar

> Snap-on is kobalt tier
> Not bad for casual use
Nigger what? Have you ever so much as touched a Snap-on tool in your life? Snap-on is literally on the top tier list, along with Mac, Cornwell, and Matco

Maybe it needs more hydraulic oil?

Those are absolute garbage, I have two of them sitting in the scrap pile right now.

However, the new Daytona jack Horrible Freight sells is actually pretty damn decent.

>Snap-On is basically Kobalt tier

Grey pneumatic 81659

They're impact rated sockets that are as thin as a chrome socket. I use them everyday out of my roll cat so I don't have to load it down so much.

>Cheap as hell and good quality.
Lots of people say this about Pittsburg Automotive tools as well. They are even sold at Sears alongside Craftsman that no one buys due to cost.

user who asked the original question here. If impact sockets are softer does that mean you'd apply less torque to a bolt using a torque wrench? Is that something to be concerned about or would the difference be minimal?

there is no difference, the material itself is just softer not the working pressure of the socket

Theoretically yes it has the potential to alter torque values, but in the real world it does not make a difference. Using an extension alters torque values more than an impact socket.

Craftsman has been all china since 2011.

>Craftsman has been all china since 2011.
More like Sears has been forced to switch to mostly Chinese goods since president clinton signed China as most favored nation trading status. It still can't compete due to those mall location expenses.

This

I have a cobalt and love it.

Get on Amazon and buy yourself a CDI Torque wrench.

They make the torque wrenches for all the major tool brands SO, Cornwell, Mac, etc.

>Basically like a backpack with some socket organizers

Milwaukee 48-22-8200 jobsite backpack.

Hard heavy duty plastic bottom, organizers for wrenches and ratchets, throw some twist-lock socket rails in and you're golden.

>20 tooth ratchet

I've got a cheap shit craftsman 1/2" flex that's got maybe 20-24 teeth, it's truly disgusting to use.

>breaker bar just a relic

This, a good ratchet makes breaker bars obsolete - SLL80A and FLL80 for life.

>Snap-On is basically Kobalt tier

No. Lots of SO's stuff is stupidly priced garbage, but a lot is worth the price and some things are absolutely priceless.

Snapon's FDP wrenches are a godsend, whereas their entire cordless lineup is a fucking joke.

Thanks broskis, much appreciated.

>Milwaukee 48-22-8200 jobsite backpack.
Suggest to Harbor Freight they make a knock-off of that backpack. Then sooner or later, something like that will show up.

Chinese knock-off nylon fabric goods have a frequent habit of having the handles pull out or the seams fall apart under repeated strain.