2017

>2017
>still buying over price oil filter

Who /fram/ Master race?

>buying oil filters
ive got 184k miles on my car and it still has the original factory filter on it. replacing them is jus a waste of money. fight me.

>not buying oil filters specifically to turn them into suppressors
Doing it wrong

>fram
>master race
Pick one and only one.

Purolator is cheaper and better quality

>he doesn't use based motorcraft filters and parts

enjoy damaging your car

Wix has the factory spec bypass valve for my car and I've just heard shit things about fram. (might be a meme but why risk it to save a couple bucks every 3000 miles?)

>purolator
KYS

>inb4 unsubstantiated anecdotal evidence
When I was in high school auto class (2003) a NAPA rep showed up with a box full of off the shelf oil filters. Fram, Napa gold & silver, Valvoline, Motorcraft, and whatever GM's OEM is. He let us take each one to a band saw to see what they were made of. Most were very similar but frams at the time were literally a bent piece of spring steel instead of a spring and perforated cardboard for a filter medium. He did a bad job of selling the Napa golds over OEMs but to this day I've never touched a Fram.

Patrician's choice

How much was your last oil filter o? I paid 20$for a Mobil 1 cartridge filter for my Volvo s40. They didn't have any other filter on stock at AutoZone and i don't want to wait for shipping

>2017
>not using OEM filters

why do you hate your car so much user?

i just realized removing the filter from some random car is an easy way to fuck it up. most of them are so accessible too

surely the owner would never notice 4 quarts of oil on the road

Surely you have never seen a female driver.

Just a purolator

>Purolator is cheaper and better quality

Sorry, but the forum people on BITOG took apart lots of Purolator cannister oil filters after doing their own oil changes. Quite a few of them had holes in the filter media. Purolator would not respond to them.

The Fram ultra filters have a metal mesh that even goes between each pleat, so the filter media is always supported. This prevents holes from forming when parts of the filter get clogged up and the pressure across the filter builds up including cases where the engine is one of those that stops and starts a lot, thus having pulses of oil pressure.

Orange can of death.

So, Purolator makes Bosch as well. They're good filters. I usually stick with Motorcraft because I have a Ford.

BITOG is very positive on Purolator. They had that issue a few years ago senpai.

>removing the filter
Yeah sure, it's what i like to do! Unscrewing fucking oil filters!

Hello, /k/
Should I buy an SKS or a 870 repro or a double barrel for my first gun?

Just wanted to ask, how does it feel to have your bait completely ignored?

I've always used K&N Oil Filters. Am I throwing my money away?

If it lets you sleep better at night... no.

I never change my oil filter. When I perform an oil change, I always just empty out the original oil filter and rinse it with a little water. I have never had a problem so far.

i soak mine in CLR for 15 minutes, rinse it off, and screw it back in

...

holy fuck my sides

>vtak yo
>females
he doesn't even know what one is

Wix /Purolator MASTER RACE checking in

wix master race

BILTEMA

Gold Standard of Scandinavia

Buy a nugget

>buy an overpriced meme gun with a drying up ammo supply

You can't get under most cars.
Removing it with the rest of the oil undrained means you get a big messy squirt of oil on your arm and body.

HURR DURR

i may be gay but i still fucked your mom m8

the ass was fat

This is how I know you are all plebs.

Filters and their source of manufacture are always changing with the various brands. So when anyone says a specific brand is good or bad, that info needs to be dated.

Mi familia, Wix or nothing. If fram was the last filter on earth I'd probably just walk instead.

Well then loosen it just enough that it still seals against the block with the engine off but won't hold pressure with it on. They won't notice until the oil pressure idiot light comes on and by then there's about 3 ounces of oil left and the main bearings are fugged.

OEM blue for my Subaru is made by fram. The OEM blacks are made by Tokyo Roki and are much better, but they're stupid expensive. Honda OEM is fram shit as well; and ACDelco filters are shitty e-cores just like fram extra guards. They look and feel like they'd disintegrate if you glared at it hard enough.

Don't you love when the obvious fram shills show up. like this thread happened last month. exactly the same.

>he owns some shitty euro car

>fram
>good

wix or mobil 1.

trying out royal purple filters right now

I am glad they have
>pic related

it makes it much easier to get those fuckers off.

Even when I use to buy K&N oil filters, I thought it was funny they had those bolt shapes on the end, I thought it was for aesthetics, but later I found out, it has a fucking use.

I would be hesitant at the XP model. I just recently had one where the secondary bypass valve broke off and was just wide open the x amount of miles on my engine.

The regular ones are fine. but I'd watch for the XP ones for awhile.

I've already done 5 oil changes total across 3 cars with a different model XP filter for each (51356, 51334, 51060) and have had zero issues with them. Yours was probably just defective, I'd contact Wix about that, if you haven't already.

> he didn't just shove a screw driver in it to get filters off

Ite ostan motonetistä :^)

SKS if you can find one in decent condition. It'll last forever, but may not be available for purchase forever. 870s are extremely common and you can pick one up at any later date.

>not buying best parts for drifting