Hello Veeky Forums, I am seeking advice on how to stop being a pussy when it comes to opening up the throttle on my 600...

Hello Veeky Forums, I am seeking advice on how to stop being a pussy when it comes to opening up the throttle on my 600. I can do a second gear roll on all the way to the rev limiter pretty comfortably but first gear still scares the fucking shit out of me. I cracked it open and the thing revved up so fast. Not to mention that the acceleration kinda gets my leg out of position from the shifter so I have to re-adjust my body in the midst of breaking the sound barrier. I also get a cramp sometimes in my left hip, I guess from my body tensing up.

Basically, how do I get better at accelerating hard?

Other urls found in this thread:

vid.me/uoFy
svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313649
manualslib.com/manual/792960/Suzuki-Sv650.html?page=13
manualslib.com/manual/1167062/Yamaha-R6.html?page=56#manual
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

Start off on a 250.

Basically it comes down to not being a pussy.

Lift yourself up using the pegs a bit so your ass is light in the seat, lean forward a bit, and give it WOT. It's a 600 so you're not really going all that fast.

Git gud and practice it.

600
not all that fast.

my 600 does over 100kmh in 1st gear.
it has 6 gears.
but yeah 250kmh isn't fast at all i agree

moron

I ride a literbike you daft cunt. My first gear ends at 160kmh, 6th gear runs up to 330kmh, and it accelerates faster than your shitbike even with the longer gearing.

I can pin it in 1st no problem, roll off a bit when the front comes up, and keep my bike going.

Quit being a fucking pussy and learn to handle your bike.

Is a 600 not a powerful motorcycle?
Maybe to much power, start of with something smaller mayhaps?
Until you got the confidence and feeling for your bike.

I don't think there's really a strategy man, just keep giving it a little more until you feel comfortable. Also, make sure your tires are warmed up before you push it too hard.

People say "oh, just start on a 250" but it isn't the same thing. The throttle response is completely different. The riding position is completely different. The bike geometry is completely different. You really can't prepare for a supersport in any way other than simply riding a supersport

>in the midst of breaking the sound barrier

Is this hyperbole, a motorcycle term, or are you doing 340 mph

Go2tracklol, breathe, practice, foam roll/lacrosse ball/adjust pegs (and make sure you're not dehydrated or low on salt) for cramps

>340 mph
>In dry air at 20 °C (68 °F), the sound barrier is reached when an object moves at a speed of 343 metres per second (about 767 mph, 1234 km/h or 1,125 ft/s).

There's such a thing as carryover, and there's a reason the best road racers spend their childhoods on minibikes and dirt bikes and their offseasons flat-tracking and, for that matter, riding bicycles. Specificity is a thing, but it is not the only thing.

Put your dick on the tank, grip with your thighs and fucking gun it

I have the poor Korean's version of a GS650. Is there much of a difference between the sport-touring and gixxer600?

50 extra ccs doesn't mean much, but I can roll full throttle 1st through 6th, and unless I lean wrong or hit a bump the front end won't lift. And it tops out at 180kph, drag limited (and I'm not a very big guy). Downhill it tops near 195 gearing limited. Also a 6spd.

What makes the 600 so much faster dispite taller gearing?

>GS650
Meant SV650.

This is pretty much the best I can do. How pathetic?

vid.me/uoFy

>What makes the 600 so much faster dispite taller gearing?
more horsepower/higher redline

op is the reason i will never buy a used super

Put your ass back in the seat so it rests against the backstop, put the balls of your feet on the pegs, lean forward, and gradually crack open the throttle.
Oh, and do it on a stretch of road where there are no likely obstacles.

it's a race bike you fuckwad...what do you think people are going to do with them? putz around at 2k rpm all day?

>race bikes hit the limiter in first and second gear all day

Is it just the cylinder configuration, though? Or is it more aggressive cams? Better flowing heads? All of the above?

displacement senpai, displacement

>cylinder configuration
Yeah, and also cylinder dimensions--racier engines are usually a bit oversquare.

>more aggressive cams
yup, I'm pretty sure

> Better flowing heads?
donno

>600 faster than a 650
>because displacement
What.

to add to , one occasionally hears of a race-prepped 650 twin over 100hp as compared to 60-70 stock, so the engines have quite a bit of potential. (of course, 600s in a similar state of tune have even more.).

Makes sense, thanks. I'm having troubles finding the torque curves for similar years of those machines, but I have to assume the 650 is just low end and lacks top end (which I can feel on my 650) but the 600 revs higher and flows better at those RPMs.

Question arises because I'm going to be replacing this Hyotrash Gt650 soon and wanted to know what the objective difference was between bike types, engine wise. Think I might still go with a sport-touring. I don't race and speeding is illegal so I prefer the low end grunt and the thumping great noise.

smaller cylinders rev higher producing more power.

thats basically it and the reason more than 4 cylinders have been cut from racing.

Also I cant fucking fathom tuning 4 carbs, adjusting 8 (or 16?) valves, getting lower fuel economy, and also the purchase cost when it's not a race bike, or a 2nd bike. I don't even do the "suggested inspections" on the half of that I have now.. Valve inspections every 4k km? You have to remove the rad on the V2 just to get at the plugs, fuck that.

It's mostly for touring 100+km and commuting 30-40km here and there.

>implying hitting the limiter every now and then is an issue at all

it is if you never leave second gear
which is what happens to 93% of super bikes that are on craigslist "for sale or trade for a cruiser, low k!! brand new fairings!!!"

Who talked about never leaving second gear?
If you warm up the engine properly every time and keep on top of maintenance, then there is absolutely nothing wrong with occasionally wringing out gears to the limiter.

>Valve inspections every 4k km
hwot

my sv650 says valves every 24k km/15k miles. You sure you're reading the right line in the chart?

>If you warm up the engine properly every time and keep on top of maintenance
if we're talking about street-rossi squid kids, that's a big if

otoh if we're talking wera guys then yeah

it's the decel in second gear from 15000rpm that i'm worried about
read the op post again and if you still don't get it then you are now also the reason i will never buy a used super bike

also, apparently you don't need to take the radiator all the way off to get at the front plug:
svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313649

experience

there's no way around it

Please explain the mechanism responsible for "being bad for the engine" when the engine is revved high. I'll give you a tip: there isn't one. This preconceived notion of wear and tear because you're making the engine run at full capacity is just fabricated by the human mind. It's not like you are going to change the properties of metal by using the engine within the capacity it was designed.

He is too pussy to go WOT in first gear. That's literally it. How you are constructing engine abuse from that is beyond me.
I'm glad bitches like you don't buy used superbikes because that means they are cheaper for me.

Yup. Not really sure why. They don't suggest that an adjustment needs to be made, but they do say inspect ever 4k. Ridiculous.

it's not bad for the engine it's bad for the transmission

>poor Korean's SV650
It's actually a Hyosung Gt650. I'm sure it's possible on my bike too, but the coolant pipes are moulded rubber and are very stiff, which means moving the rad at all is difficult without draining the system. For the price of coolant I'd just remove the rad and inspect under the heads while I'm in there.

>being afraid of your bike

This is why you start on a tamer bike like an SV or Ninja 650.

Supersports are not for beginners.

>not wanting a noobie squid trashed bike is bad

Veeky Forums

well i'm boggled
here's the chart for the sv: manualslib.com/manual/792960/Suzuki-Sv650.html?page=13

Zx6r is same as SV. R6 is 40k km/24k miles: manualslib.com/manual/1167062/Yamaha-R6.html?page=56#manual

oh. ghey.

>implying every used supersport has been trashed

this is unironically what I believe

>HE THINKS ENGINE BRAKING IS BAD

it is if you're a retard like op who bought a supersport for his first bike

how the fuck does that compute?

That isn't my first bike. My first bike was a Ninja 250. The 600 is my second bike. I have a GSXR 1000 too

Owning a Ninja 250 for a week until you "got bored" of it doesn't count desu.

>how is operator incompetence bad for a performance machine?

How is engine braking operator incompetence?

I didn't get bored. Crashed it and had to get a new bike

dropped

that's a spicy meatball

Nice circular argument.
Have fun babying your engine and being slow.

have fun on the bus

>crashed a 250
>is clearly ready for a bike with almost five times the power

No need, I have a bike.