I'm considering a small/mid-sized truck in the future. I don't tow...

This.
I'm 5'7 and fit OK in my regular cab Ranger, but I would probably move the seat back another inch if I could, but the seat is already up against the back glass.

The Tacoma probably isn't more to maintain, but it won't be much less, and the Toyota Tax will wipe out any advantage.

>I haven't hauled anything yet with the 2.3, but seeing as it isn't exactly peppy even empty, I can't imagine it being particularly happy with a bed full of gardening soil.

I've towed small boats and hauled landscaping pavers with my 2.3/5spd. It's not bad if you just forget about using OD.

Thanks. It presents itself better in photos and at first glance (and the low miles) than it really is. Here's my current laundry list of to-dos:
T-belt+ waterpump (never done)
Shocks all around (beyond worn out, rusting to pieces)
reattach/replace parking brake cable
Fix HVAC directional control (bad vacuum supply I think)
Fix Power steering leak
drain/fill trans to hopefully help with slow 2nd gear synchro and general notchiness
Solve fast-cycling A/C compressor issue (could just be low on R134a)
Diagnose/repair loud front end clunking (Swaybar bushings, maybe more)
Replace fuel sending unit float (gas gauge doesn't work)
Replace gas tank filler neck (leaking)

Thankfully all of this is pretty cheap in terms of parts, and the only hard part about the labor is frankly getting rusty hardware apart.

Yeah, like I said, I want the area for storage and for when I grab groceries.

Yes. I also live in Ontario. The 4 cyl was never matched with 4x4 in the last gen, so I guess I would be stuck with 2WD. I know older (98-03) came with the 3L 4x4, however towards the end you could only get 4x4 on the 4L V6, and that engine is overkill for what I need and too much on fuel. I guess I should mention another con: the last of the Rangers are getting up in age, and I live in the rust belt.

I've driven older Mazdas for years. Japanese parts are more expensive. The thing about the Taco, is that in 4x4 V6 its already more than what I need. Would anywhere here recommend the 4 cyl that sits lower? I've driven them and they seem gutless, but...I don't really need alot of power.
If I bought an older Taco, they have that frame rot recall, and I do not see many in the yards if I ever needed cheap parts.

No headgaskets or tranny issues?

Too old, sorry. Maybe fine in non salt states, not here.

I wouldn't haul any more than furniture or other items like that. The newer Mazda 4 cyl had more power than the old Lima motor.

> I don't tow, I only really want the space to haul things in the bed

What kind of shit are you hauling?
I wrecked my Ranger and was given a Honda Element.

With the back seats removed, you have 5 and a half feet of space to put stuff back there. It has utilitarian rubbery plastic flooring made to haul shit.

AWD with a decent vtec in it, dont seem to hold resell value at all so you can get a decent deal on one.

I garbage pick often, things like furniture, other things, fix up and resell, etc. I'd consider a station wagon, but they are generally not popular anymore. Too old at this point. Like, a nice early 90s Camry station wagon with a V6 I'd love, shit is just too old now.

And a minivan...shelters things, but its too much vehicle most of the time. Too much to wash/clean, gas, etc.

I got some deja vu from my 94
>T-belt+ waterpump (never done)
I replaced my t-belt about 160k because time bomb. Water pump was fine and didn't need to remove it, so it stayed.
>Shocks all around (beyond worn out, rusting to pieces)
Replaced fronts and rears since rears got worn through from brake cable. and fronts were oilyas well.
>reattach/replace parking brake cable
Yeah, mine's FUBAR as well. I just don't park on inclined.
>Diagnose/repair loud front end clunking (Swaybar bushings, maybe more)
I did lower ball joints a few years ago. I think my swaybar links were OK.
>Replace gas tank filler neck (leaking)
I took the bed off to find the source of the leak and found the leaking filler neck and replaced it, super easy. While I had a good look at things while the bed was off, I found a rotten spring shackle I replaced as well.

Are any of the Ranger engines interference motors? I like the feeling of pushing my belts the extra inch.

The Lima 2.3/2.5 are the only engines with belts and they are non-interference.

Don't let anyone meme you into a tacoma unless you have deep pockets and want a midsize. Rangers are great, I would 100% recommend.

What is fit and finish? build quality? Reliability?. Honestly, if you never put up the Money I guess you'll never know how good a truck can be.

I put up the money for my ranger and I am 100% satisfied. It's been very reliable and hasn't let me down in the 3 years I've owned it. If you want to pay double for what is definitely not even close to double the truck that's your prerogative.

I would consider a GM full size with a vortex 5.3. The are simple. They will last. They are cheap. A full size will Cary more in the bed.

If the engine does completely explode you can get a used one for a non meme price of 500.

Avoid the 90's rangers. They're cancer. Fine otherwise, though.

1994~->2009 or so Dakotas are neat, too. Especially if you can find one of the 360 CI ones. I wouldn't recommend a S10 or Colorado unless you want to go back to like late 80's model S10s.

First truck was a purple 1997 ranger XLT.

The 4 cycl 97hp one that got 15mpg.

Had it 10 years, bent frame farting around on a dirt road, sold it, someone bought it and had it fixed. I still see it around my hometown when I'm down that way. The speedometer broke at like 197k miles, 5 years before I sold it.

OP, Just get the 4L V6. Fuel economy is not that bad to be honest. I'm very happy with my Ranger, it's got leather seats and all. The 4.0L SOHC is not hard to maintain and it's got decent power. If you can get a Ranger with a Torsen differential like I did, it's a whole mother ball game. I would really get a 4x4 btw if I was you.

>Avoid the 90's rangers. They're cancer.
Everything that old is cancer around here, because of rust. Also my insurance company starts to be a pain in the ass if you are buying vehicles over 15 years of age. I would more than likely shop for 2004 and above. In Canada the B-Series lasted until 2010.

Factory leather? Are they heated? I feel I can get away with a 4 cyl one. I won't be using the bed all the time. No mudding, no towing, etc.

Question: I've done my own oil changes on newer Japanese cars, where nothing has to be greased every oil change because everything is self contained. Would I have to be greasing things each time I oil change a Ranger?

I grease my ball joints every oil change but they're moogs. The factory ball joints are sealed and the u joints as well.

Avoid the 3.0L V6 like the plague. Had one, never again. Go for the 4 cylinder or the 4.0L V6.

Thanks.

Would you care to explain on why the 3L was bad?

>The 4.0L SOHC is not hard to maintain and it's got decent power
>recommending the sohc ever

sure it's ok after 2008 but then your are paying a shit ton for the later rangers. better off buying a different truck at that price point.

when you want a affordable ranger the 4.0 sohc is a disaster waiting to happen. if you want a cheap ranger you end up with a 90 or early 2k ranger. The older sohc 4.0 have a shit ton of problems. Then you have to worry about the previous owners maintenance or lack there of. Ticking time bomb at that point 2bqh. All of this accounted for you're probably better off with a 4.6 jellybean f150 or a c/k series pickup from the 90's. These will be cheaper than a newer 4.0 ranger, the mpg will be similar and they will both out preform the ranger hands down.

only way to go is getting a older lima for cheap, newer 4 banger, or a 4.0 ovh but those seem to be harder to find. maybe a Vulcan if the price is right but expect shit mpg and low power.

Most people say they're anemic but also thirsty, though reliable engines. Some people say they have other issues though.

>Would you care to explain on why the 3L was bad?
The whole truck was shit. The maintenance schedule was followed religiously, but the thing still broke down left, right, front, and center.
>brake lines twice (this was an extra bitch because the fittings were different sizes on each end)
>Heater core twice
>clutch twice (though I can consider this normal wear and tear)
>front axle blew leaving it RWD only
>engine drank oil and had to be rebuilt at 130k when the lifters failed in spectacular fashion sending 2 pushrods through the oil pan.

Even with a rebuilt engine, that POS was getting 8 MPG on a good day. I hope it's rotting somewhere. Even the seats were uncomfortable. I hated that truck with a passion.

Fuck the Vulcan.

Mee too!!!
,
I am considering buying a Ford ranger too.
My brother Noticed this one at a local used car dealership and sent me photos.
I called and they said it only came in a few days ago , its not even on their website yet.
I headed over to test drive it in Monday evening .

It is an Automatic 1993 4.0 V6 with 4wd and about 90k on the odometer.
It comes with the Rack back and tool box. vin: 1FTCR15X8PTA19905

I drove it. It just got to the lot last Thursday.
All the fluids seem OK, but the auto trans fluid is brown. Not dark, but light brown, like somwhat clean oil, but thiner. Didn't notice a smell..
The body is OK. Has two dents on the rear bed corner passenger's side. Rust hole on the underside of the rear driver bed corner. The bed itself has no rust. It's nice nice and clean inside too. No rips in the seats, carpet, or headliner. Has aftermarket Clarion radio with Aux and USB inputs, and a detachable face plate.

Sounds ok when started, Carfax says it had valve cover gaskets replaced in October with new plugs and coolant flush. Wires look to need replacing now. Then i drove it.
It pulls to the right alot while driving. Also, I heard heard a clicking sound when making left turns and for a few seconds after straightening out. It reminds me of the sound a bad CV joint makes. Yes I know it doesn't have one of those. Also I put it into 4wd and went through a small snow bank between parking lots. The rear wheels seamed to slip when they were going through the snow.
I left a small deposit and I planed to take it to my mechanic the next day.
That night I did the free history report.
vehiclehistory.com/pagin...new-report.php
It says it's worth about 2k from the dealer, I am not the best at haggling but I will try
The vehicle history report says, the odometer was 20mi in 1992 and the next time it was registered was 2014 with 61,302 mi. So I don't know for sure , but I would guess it was rolled over once.
I am not kidding myself, I realize it's over 20 years old and will need work. I just want to make sure it is not major mechanical work that will require a big bill at the shop. I would like to be able to fix most of the things myself in my driveway.

how much they asking for it famistan?

The next day, Tuesday, after taking it to my mechanic, he said it badly needed the transmission fluid changed, but it didn't smell or look dirty. it tuened brown from being so old. The clicking is because of the front hub(s). Needs to have one or both replaced, that's why it's slipping out of 4 wheel drive. Also, from just looking at the front wheels, while it was parked there, it looked like it needed an alignment (like I said earlier, from the test drive, it pulled alot to the right). Other than that, and the one rust hole in the quater, it's in good shape.

After I brought the truck back to the dealer I didn't have time to hagel, as my dad, who drove me , was waiting impatiently and we had to go, he was late for an appointment.
I told them what my mechanic said about the hubs and they offered to sell me the parts at their cost, since they also own a repair facility. After a quick phone call, he told me that I need both the hub and the bearing, and I can get that for just under a hundred each side. Dad started beeping, and I told them I would think about it & do some research and get back to them by lunch time tomorrow.

I am a bad haggler. .

I was thinking of asking them to throw in and install the new hubs if I pay the asking 2,500.

What do you think?
What's a repair like that cost?
Was the price I mentioned for the parts sounding right?
Does anyone know the estimated labor time for a job like that?

Also I am having a delima now. Mor of a problem actually. My dad was on standby today and got called into work. I can't get to the place at lunchtime, like I told them, to negotiate. Don't know if I should try negotiating on the phone. Also before I left them yesterday, one salesman said, so should I tell the other guy that was interested, it's sold or should I keep him on the hook. I said, I would not say anything till I come back around lunch time tomorrow.

Also,
The photos are here
s86.photobucket.com/user/napolitan_2000/library/Cars_and_Trucks

Sorry,
Thought I mentioned it.
They are asking 2500

Just get a 4cyl extended cab base model ranger. They are bulletproof, parts for days and are great light trucks all in all.

How is driving in snow with the 4cyl and 2WD? How much weight do I need in the back?

take your time m8 make sure everything is right.

don't get 2 excited and fall in love with the truck.
there are no shortage of rangers for sale

Thank you for that.
I know there are no shortages of rangers, but there are for 4wd ones, priced under $3000 that are not rust buckets .

I've basically read the same things. Ford put that Vulcan in many models, it was around for a while.

Sorry to hear you got a lemon. Maybe it was built on a Friday?

I can tell yo from experience, and from friends who had them. The 3.0 is the best choice. Those engine don't die.
If you ever found one, the 3.0 flex full engine would be the stellar choice. They only made it for 2 years, so it's hard to find.

Taurus is just shit.

Get the v6. My 4pinger had 98hp.

THAT IS LESS THAN SOME PRODUCTION BIKES.

Go for a ranger id u have to. The only difference in them for certain years was the grill, mayne headlights, and tail lights. Just get cool after market tail lights and a mazda fenders if u have too. Was gonna go ranger on my truck and put a 302 in it before i totaled it.

HAHAHAHAHA.

WAT.

>dodge
>ever

From the post with the 271k mile ranger
The trans slipped from when I bought it in 09 with 185k miles. I lived with it until a year or so ago when it was getting worse. I heard all the rumors about how high mileage auto trans should just keep their fluid and changing it would kill the tranny. I decided to do it anyway, and the shifting smoothed right out. That was about a year and a half and 20k miles ago.

Not a single issue with the engine, I change the oil every 5k miles. I changed the coolant last year too, it was still bright green, no tinge of oil at all.

Most of the work I've had to do was work suspension and brakes and shit, I think thats acceptable for a truck with almost 300k on it.

Pic related is the truck

You're full of shit. I have owned only 4.0 rangers and never had a problem Is that near Kalona?

Thanks for the info. I asked because certain old Fords are noted for failing transmissions and blowing head gaskets early in their life.

>I think thats acceptable for a truck with almost 300k on it.
Forgive my confusion, I assume that's 271 miles? So that's about 433kms then. Damn that's high.

straight south a couple hours, Kahoka Missouri. Used to live in Keokuk Iowa but moved to Arkansas a couple months ago

Yea, 271k miles. It was a highway department truck before I bought it.

The stuff I've felt the need to do the past 85k miles and 8 years that I've owned it:
Brakes (pads and rotors both and shoes and drums both)
All 4 shocks (twice)
Front wheel bearings (driver side was going out and making terrible noise)
Front drive shaft pinion seal (went out and ran the front diff dry for 3 months before I realized what had happened, this was several years ago and the 4x4 still works fine.)
Alternator + belt
Sway bar bushings and end links (passenger side end link snapped in my work's shitty parking lot)

I don't believe thats too bad for the mileage. The steering wheel shakes at highway speeds (gonna replace the tie rods next) and the bodys getting a bit rusty but its been a great truck, I've driven it a lot longer than I thought I ever would

>The steering wheel shakes at highway speeds (gonna replace the tie rods next)

Most all steering wheel shake I've had has always been tires. Weights fall off or belts break. Tie-rod ends just cause steering slop in my experience.

Get a manual transmission. The autos are hit or miss.

Anyone have experience with this?

I have a G80 on my S10 and never got stuck with the 2wd 2.2. Never bothered adding weight.

>The Ranger is a better truck.
Yeah, no, they aren't. I've owned both. The Tacoma is a better truck.

Ok so update:

They were not prepared to budge one dime on the price. The negotiations ended with me saying, bottom line is that truck is not worth anything near 2500 with the problems it has. They came back with . OK, we are prepared to fix the hubs but we're not going down in price at all. Then I asked for a trans flush with new filter and a tune up too. They said OK. .I Put down another 300, and signed the papers. The other half of the balance to be paid at pick up, after the work is done. Was only another 410 for taxes, title, tags, & fees.
Now I am wondering about warrenty. I forgot to ask for it. Dammit.!

I think it's too late for anything on the truck, but I am going to call tomorrow and ask how long the work will be warrantied for. Because that should be standard. I don't want cheep parts being used that will crap out in a month or two.

>C-channel frame
>Toyota quality

LoL

You better check to make sure they do the actual tune up and transmission work (personally I would take the truck to a place that specializes in transmissions only). As for the truck itself, I hope you are happy with it. You're young, buying and haggling is all a learning experience. With time comes experience, you gain a better eye, and have more confidence. Personally I wouldn't buy from small time used lots because many of them buy their cars from auctions. I'd rather buy personal.

Nigger, the reason why tacomas had that extreme of a rust issue is because they had a boxed frame.

look at Suzuki Carry, Subaru Sambar, Honda Acty, etc. i know you guys can get them in the states

i sold my 81 Hilux and bought a 91 Sambar, $25 to fill the tank on 91 octane, gets good MPG, goes anywhere especially with the 4x4, easy to work on, etc. i drove 7 hours straight in it last month on a 600km highway trip in -20c no issues

if you want a bit bigger look at Nissan D21, i had a 88 KingCab with the 2.4 electro injection engine and 5spd trans, that thing ripped and never quit til the frame broke in half

>implying the Ranger isn't C-channel
Pot meet kettle

Rangers rust to fuck too, when i was a mechanic i remember we had a Ranger come in where the threads on one of the sparkplugs gave and it shot the plug out. had to helicoil it

I'm in Leafland, eh. Importing can get pretty expensive. And any truck here over 15 years old, unless never winter driven, is going to have rust issues. Forget about 1980s stuff, I can barley find anything from that decade in junkyards these days. Even stuff from the early 90s is getting spotty.

Can confirm
t. ranger owner
I'd own one as a toy but fuck driving that thing over 40

Loose steering/suspension components can really allow for very slight wheel imbalancing to really build up into a resonance. Or even just the slop itself as the wheel wanders back and forth at a resonance (thing shopping cart wheel when it wiggles back and forth).

Get the 2.3L, you'll be able to get close to 30mpg

> Keokuk, Iowa

More like keo-cuck because you decided to move hahaha jk iowa fag here.

Anyway, the ONLY ranger acceptable in this list is 4wd 4.0 manual.

No they don't. It's just shit metal. Hell, they STILL don't have boxed frames.

Problem is so many of them were sold as regular cab for fleets. Extended cabs exist with the 2.3L, but you have to hunt.

i did a 600km trip in it going 120-130kmh no issues, its not sketchy at all. only thing that sucks is up steep hills its hard to hold 5th and you have to ride out 4th gear

BTW I was poking around my truck today tracing vac lines, diagnosing the A/C fast-cycling, and realized that my right front body mount is completely rotted off. The corner of the body just sways around a bit. I can't help but wonder if this is part of the cacophony of crashing sounds I hear going over large bumps in the road. So I guess looks can be deceiving, the body on the outside cosmetically is just about perfect looking in terms of lack of rust.