What's the best way to faster acceleration without an ECU upgrade on naturally aspirated engine?

What's the best way to faster acceleration without an ECU upgrade on naturally aspirated engine?
Crankshaft? Pistons? Clutch?

Also the suspension/brakes/transmission are already upgraded to the best ones I can afford. And I also can't really loose any more weight.

>INB4 Get a turbo
I don't want one.

Gearbox with a lower gearing

Heavily depends on the car. Some cars respond well to headers and some sort of intake. Look up the forum of your car and there will be more info.
Cams are probably the next thing I'd suggest.
But remember that anything that you won't be as good as it could be without tuning. Tuning probably isn't as hard or expensive as you think.

Again look at forums specific for your car

Wouldn't that also limit the top speed while cruising on the highway?
Wouldn't the lightweight engine parts make it rev better hence it will accelerate better?

Also is there like a base price for the work on engines/gearboxes or something like that? If I visit a mechanic I have no idea if he is ripping me off or not...

Skim the head
Thinner head gaskets
Remove emissions controls

This

But seriously, why user? ECU upgrade is easier than messing with the engine.
Proper intake, fuel delivery, and exhaust is a good way to start I guess

>Remove emissions controls
Can't do that in this police state...

AFAIK my engine is quite new and not very well supported and the ECU upgrade is just a blackbox that fools the sensors and I'm quite scared of that kind of "upgrade"

I would like to keep the car. It's not a throwaway... That's why I don't mind investing in it...

Lightet flywheel for dem epik revz

Also what Police country do you live in

>Wouldn't the lightweight engine parts make it rev better hence it will accelerate better?
It'll be more responsive to throttle input, but acceleration is determined by your engine's power output and how that power is transmitted to the tires, and how much grip those tires have.

If your engine is 'quite new' as you say, then you'll likely find that very little can be done mechanically without also remapping/replacing the ECU or using an add-on aftermarket unit that does the same thing.

Modern EFI keeps a very close eye on the engine's sensors and emissions, and most of the easy ways that used to be used to get power out of an NA engine will be irrelevant or inaccessible with today's engines.

What exactly is your car and engine?

>Also is there like a base price for the work on engines/gearboxes or something like that? If I visit a mechanic I have no idea if he is ripping me off or not...
No. Everything varies between makes and (often) models, and these days if you go to an ordinary mechanic and tell them you want your car to go faster, they'll either point you at a tuning shop or recommend an aftermarket ECU module anyway.

A workshop that handles proper tuning will ask a premium price, and guess what - their first step will involve ECU remapping, too.

It's not like Forza or whatever racing games you've been playing where you pay some money and suddenly everything is better - modern engines are already quite efficient, and you'll start bleeding money as soon as you start looking at things like forged internals, high compression pistons, cams, head porting, etc.

OK, I've looked at the remaps and half the people say that it's not worth it and the other half might have been scammed. There might be one product that MIGHT help but it's like 500USD. What now?

More bore and stroke

Just figure shit out for yourself, cocksucker. Ever heard of google? Do you need us to wipe your arse, too?

I can google million different opinions. Which one is the right one?

lmao 'proper tuning'

you wrote all that fucking dogshit and said nothing. great job faggot. you're fucking gay

6:10 gears.

>There might be one produc
SUPER ENGINE BOOST 5000
SUPER ENGINE TURBO BOOST POWER

you fuckers don't even like cars man. you're just led by jews to items that give you status.

camshafts, pistons, fuel injectors, valves, aftermarket ECU that will have a proper tune to make it all actually make power.
Tbh same boat as you, I want to make an NA 1zz make maybe 20-40 more horsepower and thats all about swapping out parts and ecu tune. Quite expensive too.

I'm talking in very general terms because OP sounds like he knows fuck all about cars and hasn't given us much information to go by in order to actually help him.

So what will you begin with? I think lightweight camshaft might actually be the first "real" think to swap that might help...

Remove unnneccesary stuff from your car.
>spare wheel10-20kg
>rear seats 30-100kg
>sound deadening 10kg(?)
>AC system 30kg

Also:
>lighter wheels with high profile tires to reduce rotational inertia.
>electrical compressor that actualy works, like these for the GT-86
>ram air intake (only works when already at decent speed)
>individual throttle bodies and velocity stacks
>sharper camshafts

How about a Golf 2.5 i5 with the manual

Supposedly you can up the HP from 170 at 6k to 204 at 8k and lose a little torkz (177 down. To 165?) That's with a thousand or so dollars with a short runner intake manifold and a tune (already have k&n air intake with heat shield)

My gears are already pretty short, it's a 5 speed and my revs are like 3k at 75mph. Not very smooth ride either (subjectively) it's riding in 196/65 R15 on Goodyear Comfortread touring tires

Wat do

Also it Ups the limiter in order to hit 8 k, but dammit I want better low end torq I don't want to Rev like a vtak

i lashed out at the wrong person. but taking care of a NA engine is simple. you nurse the airflow and keep the system growing linearly. No bends in pipes, no parasites like chargers or turbo, no gimmicks; only fluid dynamics.

>making power at 8k on stock cams in a VW

Timing advance (which requires an increase in fuel octane).

Going catless.

stop buying shit cars in the first place

Differential gears
Exhaust
Camshaft
Intake
Cylinder heads
Rotating assembly stroker kit
Engine transplant

>lightweight camshaft
Valve float and cylinder head runner restriction will hit you way before weight of moving parts will unless you're running an iron big block

>Clutch
U absolutely fucking wot. The thing is there to make sure the power/torks is effectively delivered from the bangcube to the spinnythingies, upgrading a clutch will give you a longer clutch life/harsher driving experience/be actually worse than OEM for one or more reasons

ECU is guddest, and you can't do much of significance without touching it. Camshaft? Gotta re-tune. Intake+Exhaust? Gotta re-tune (unless you are willing to leave a good bit of power unused because it's not optimized, the ECU is still optimized for the factory configuration). Crankshaft? Nigga, you HAVE to do a re-tune with that, you ain't getting away with it otherwise

Cars nowadays require touching the cumputor for just about anything. Unless you get a carburetor and dizzy, you have to fiddle with the pixie box

To be honest, it seems you don't really know much of what you want/you're looking for, and being ignorant yet wanting to buy things is dangerous. GET INFO, READ, LEARN, because otherwise you'll spend stupidly in stupid things and you won't get good results, or worse, fuck your shit up

The best/stickiest tires you can afford, and lighter weight, is what will net you the greatest benefit, unless you're going upwards of 130 or so km/h frequently. In that case, actually functional aerodynamics will help (a bit), but aero is rather complex to properly design, manufacture, and mount, what with it usually being a DIY thing...

shorter gears
ported heads
less restrictive exhaust
cold air intake if the OEM one is restrictive
underdrive/lightweight pulleys
in general most head work wont require a tune unless you make big changes. in most cases the ecu will adjust for the increase in airflow by delivering more fuel
you're going to find that most internal engine mods will require some sort of tune to fully utilize them
otherwise the best way to gain power without touching the ecu is by removing as much weight as possible from the rotating assembly, and removing weight from the car in general. ligher weight wheels/drive shafts can go a long way in this regaurd
id say the easiest ways to get power would be raising the rev limiter or tuning for higher octane gas, which both require ECU upgrades/tuning

It's going to be expensive as hell OP. Assuming your car is newer, it's probably drive-by-wire, meaning that you'll have to do something with the ECU since there is no cable to adjust manually. If you have the money, you might consider lower gearing as the first user suggested. Yes, it'll cut down your top speed, but for most people and cars, that top speed is more theoretical since OEM gearing allows for quite a bit more "potential" speed even though the car won't have the power to readch that maximum, and most drivers haven't maxed out their speed either since modern engines have speed and rev limiters/fuel cutoffs.

So if you replace the driveshaft and flywheel, you may as well get lighter ones at the same time. Otherwise you might get more aggressive cams, make sure your exhaust isn't restricting flow. Either of those will require a shop to measure and tune, so at that point you may as well just get the turbo you don't want to get. Any engine internals will be a major overhaul, and forged parts are really expensive if you truly want a powerful engine. The only other thing I would suggest, if you're opposed to a turbocharger, would be a supercharger. Far less hassle than a turbo and will give you faster acceleration without lag, but I'm guessing you're opposed to those for the same reason you don't want a turbo.

Basically, you're going to need an ECU upgrade/tune no matter what you do if you want a noticeable increase in acceleration.
>ECU
>ECU
>ECU

On that note, does anyone know how you would go about learning how to tune/remap an ECU? Obviously tuner shops have people that can do it and they had to learn somewhere.

>On that note, does anyone know how you would go about learning how to tune/remap an ECU? Obviously tuner shops have people that can do it and they had to learn somewhere.
The most I know is that you need specialist software and a communication module which usually all depends on what models of car you're tuning, and doing it without a dyno and gas analyzer can make learning it pretty difficult.

why not start by swapping it to a 2zz-ge? not exactly expensive and a fairly easy swap if you have a donor car. then you have +50hp or so, while spending fuck all compared to what getting then same gains from a 1zz would cost

Alright, so model-dependent software and hardware. Is it just a matter of trial and error when professionals tune an ECU? I find that hard to believe. Maybe to get the maximum output from the engine, but there should be a general process to get you in the ballpark of peak engine performance, right? What languages are different ECUs typically written in?

Pretty much this

Also lowering it a bit for less air resistance and maybe some flat underbody panels if available

legalities.

There's some trial and error involved when dialing in a tune, but from what I've seen, most cars will have a few good 'starting point' maps that get shared around, and after that it's a matter of getting as much power as you can without running too close to the engine's limits.

german?

anyways, that sucks. if you dont mind doing a fuckton of work maybe look at swapping the head/internals over tot he 1zz block from the 2zz, its possible on some older toyota engines (a series) so might be doable if its allowed. what car is it?

Sounds about right. Where could one find said starting point maps?

My best guess is forums for the specific car you're working on, or the user forum for whatever tuning software you happen to get.

4.1 diff ratio you fucking autist