QTDDTOT -QUESTIONS THAT DONT DESERVE THEIR OWN THREAD-

Doesn't change the fact that they're overpriced cores are garbage.
t. former AAA roadside tech (also shit)

Exide (RIP)
East Penn/Deka (truly GOAT)
Bosch

Can I put tires from a 2007 cr-v on a 2012 cr-v? They both say 225/65/R17, so I'm gonna assume it's a-okay, right?

Yes, if all the size numbers match, there's no issue. Maybe check if the tires are rated to the pressure stated in your owner's manual.

yes

Yes, the rim is what decides whetever it can be mounted or not. The tires don't matter if they are the same specs.

However tires from 2007 or before will likely be pretty dry and inflexible compared to a new tire, so their capabilities on the road will be less than brand new tires.

>Any way to revive it, or is it fucked?
It is essentially 99.97% guaranteed to be sulfated. That is bad because sulfation crystals aren't really removable when inside a battery environment, so that makes the battery a loss. You can sell the battery to some places that buy dead batteries since they not only recycle the plates, but also re-use the case. Or you can turn it in to any car battery seller for the core charge.

Regular batteries shouldn't be taken down to 1/3 charge because sulfation becomes more serious a problem at that point. Sulfation occurs at most charge percentages but is easily removed when the charge is above 50%. Sulfation becomes more serious for regular batteries at 30%. Deep discharge batteries can probably go down to 20% but not much more before sulfation is an issue. Deep discharge's main difference is a bigger plate separation to prevent shorting.

But heavy sulfation is bad. Let's exxxagggerate to make a clearer example. You have a lead plate. The battery was taken down to 10% charge and that caused the chemical reactions to create microsulfate deposits on the plate. That coating is uneven. As you recharge, some of the sulfation is removed in the thinnest parts but it remains thick on most other parts. The lead is now re-deposited fastest at the places where the sulfation is thinnest.

Oh, what has happened now that you charged a long time? The lead kept on re-depositing at the fast spots and none at the thick sulfated spots. The re-deposited lead now looks like a bump or even a spike.... Did it touch the other plate? If it does, that cell is shorted out. Once shorted out, that cell will never recharge.

This is also a lesson as to why wet cells have a limited number of full recharge cycles. Even if there is almost no sulfation, some spots may re-deposit lead faster. Sooner or later, you lose a cell to either sulfation or shorting out.

My dad just bought a 2003 Silverado 1500 (details below). Former city property, was well-maintained, only a few cosmetic issues as far as we can tell. Anything that needs to looked at or potential future issues?

>Reg Cab 119.0" WB
>Model CC15703
>54,000 miles
>48,000 engine hours (presumably idled a long time)
>North Georgia climate
>aftermarket paint job (done by city)

Thanks.

Alright, thanks for the response, I'll go check out the manuals.

I read and heard you should never do ATF flushes on Honda transmissions and wondering if it's true.

Specifically is it better to just do a ATF drain and fill on a 2007 Honda Fit Sport 5 speed automatic?

How do you sell your dream car?

I've got an 85 Supra that's been my only car since high school (8 years). I just got a 1-year contracting job that's 3 hours North, and I'll drive home every weekend. I can't rely on my car year-round for that kind of mileage and my dad offered to sell me his 08 TL for 4k. It's a great deal and I'd be an idiot not to take it, but I feel like I'm selling my youth.

Keep it. If you don't have room for a second car, make room

>Not using interstate

just kill you are selfve

I have an old carby car with an aftermarket immobilizer on it that I want to bypass because it's fucked.

If I make up a circuit for the fuel pump and starter solenoid is that enough to get it to start and drive?

i wanna buy a car privately from someone on craigslist. what precautions should i take to prevent myself being fucked over?
>test drive
>PPI
>service history
>clean title
am i missing anything?

Ask to take it to a shop to get it inspected. make sure it's actually a well reviewed shop and not fucking jiffy lube and call ahead to see if it's ok. If they're hesitant or refuse you about face and nope the fuck out. If they agree you pay the 20 or 50 or 100 bucks for the inspection and use whatever they find to haggle or if they find it's scrap on wheels you can drop it before it falls apart in a day.

I bought a 1998 Malibu for $500. The only thing wrong with it so far is whenever I try to turn at low speeds without giving it any gas, the wheel is really stiff if that makes any sense. Any body know what gives?

considering i live about 60 miles from the person selling the car, i guess the only other thing i'd have to work out would be making an inspection appointment in line with the seller's schedule. thanks.

What are some essential tools that a person should always have in their car?

I have pic related.

...

Make sure when you turn the key to the accesory position the check engine light is light up (all the lights come on, you're checking they havent removed the check engine light bulb). At this point find the red oil can light. Watch that one when you start the car and see it if stays on for a second or flickers, it shouldn't. You can also have someone you trust watch the exhaust when you start it and look for blue smoke.

Try little things like turn the a/c on and see if the car almost stalls out.
Floor the car once it's warmed up and see if it pulls one way, same the braking but do it on a level road and see if it pulls. When you floor it if the car surges, like doesn't accelerate smooth it's the injectors.

When you open the hood or trunk, if it uses the struts that hold the hood or trunk open by itself, see if they can hold it. Some owners will be sneaky and hold it while you look when the things are shot. They're not expensive to replace but all of these items give you a general idea of the cars condition.

When you're driving if the car is very bouncy it could be the strust or springs (I don't know which, maybe both) need to be replaced and this can be pricy imo. Like 600 for all 4. Every car model drives different though so it might be hard to tell.

If the car has high miles, like 150k. You should check between the engine and transmission to see if it's leaking. That could be the rear main seal and if it's leaking super bad that can be a pain.

If the brakes are squeaky it can be the pads need to be replaced.

check the tires are the same brand. Sometimes the person will have different front than rear, but they shouldn't have randomly replaced tires. You can google the brands too and see how cheap they are. Also, check the tires for even wear across the tire. If the front have the inner tire bald, this could be worn out front suspension (yes, it can be other things too)

Again, all of this is just getting a rough idea of the condition of the car.

oh, and if the steering wheel shakes back and forth under braking and I think it is kind of bumpy during this time it's the rotors.

There's a lot of little tests like this to do.

Like I said some owners are sneaky. Some will start the car and let it warm up before you arrive and you wont catch the red oil can light. Some are genuine and just got home from work so the car isn't cold.

Overall I usually like to really judge the owner. Do they have records for the car, are they genuine about selling it, are they showing you little things about it, are they kind shady, denying issues you point out are not here, is the car like they described or in worse condition, and so on. There's many factors even in the owner that can give you an insight to the cars condition.

I've noticed men aged 50-60ish are the biggest liars and pain in the ass to deal with, but I've also had extremely honest ones. Also, when looking if you're in a busy area. Don't go see the car that's been listed on Craigslist for days. Watch on a Saturday and open all the cars you like. Bookmark these ads and on monday try to visit the ads again. See how many got deleted. The ones that stay are usually not good cars, but this also depends on car type, price, year and so on, but you get the idea. The cars sitting you see in the week are not the amazing finds you see. You have to watch craigslist all the time and be ready to go immediately to the car. I've bought a few amazing condition cars within the first 30 minutes of the person posting the ad. I've also sold one within an hour of listing it, good cars go fast. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't get discouraged if you just find crap for a while. Sometimes it takes a month to even find a good economical budget car (car under 10k in good condition).

Oh, also I like to use autocheck before buying and recommend it.

Ever start came in the truck I bought last October 94 2 door Yukon. No problems this winter. Cheap batter is a cheap battery if it can't last 3 years it shouldn't be in production

thanks a bunch

I've seen 3 interstates die just after warranty now

Looking at getting this prep the bull bar for my cuckover

amazon.com/VANGUARD-2013-2015-Ford-Escape-Plate/dp/B00VSCO8AM

Is it worth the burger bucks, or is it garbage? $175 seems kind of cheap.

What's the best way to get a deal on two tires?

What brands are reliable?

I bought a beater car for $650 to turn around and flip.

It has an interstate battery in it that was bought last month. I went ahead and pulled the 6/2013 autozone red top battery out of my corolla and put the newer interstate battery in and plan to sell the beater car this weekend for $1000.

basically made a profit and got a new battery.

What shit can I really do to my '97 Pontiac Grand Prix with the 3.8L 3800 six cylinder?

Super charger. Done

Starting to work on my own shit. Babby's first toolkit:

harborfreight.com/301-pc-professional-mechanics-tool-set-69312.html
vs
amazon.com/Craftsman-230-Piece-Mechanics-Tool-50230/dp/B01GWD834I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490665165&sr=8-1
vs
amazon.com/Stanley-STMT71654-201-Piece-Mechanics-Tool/dp/B009EMKMCG
vs
amazon.com/TEKTON-1859-Wrench-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6S
?

Either the Craftsman set or the harbor freight set.

Start with the stanley set, then get a set of tekton screwdrivers, wrenches, and pliers

...... how do you know this much about batteries?

the internet is a wonderful place that has literally all of the worlds knowledge and porn, user.

hondas autotragics use solenoids to change gears I think and they can be damaged by the pressure of the flush machines
for years they've recommended the multiple drain and fill
>drain and refill
>this will only remove some of the fluid
>drive a few hundred miles
>drain and refill
>drive a few hundred miles
>drain and refill
>this will remove ~85% of the old fluid
>for best effect drive a few hundred miles, drain and refill
>this will get you into the 95% new fluid range

about when did it stop being possible to suspend an old vehicle and running it in reverse to roll back the odometer stop being possible? I know it's only older vehicles could be frauded this way, but when is the cutoff?

I bought a 1980 vehicle with only 79k miles and I have a slight suspicion that it might have been rolled back this way.

th-th-thanks Veeky Forums

Where are good places to buy car parts online?

How do I learn this shit when I don't have family or friends who give a shit about cars, but I'm interested?

Bought a loaded 2015 Corolla S a week ago, 33k miles, looked/sounded great and my mechanic (trusted family friend) gave it a thumbs up... only possible downside was it was a former rental, did I just goof hard Veeky Forums? I needed a new DD and couldn't pass up the deal/rate since I'm a first time car buyer (bought others cash through personal sale though). Aside from it being a boring econocar with a derpy CVT it's pretty nice and I like it, gas savings alone should pretty much pay for the car

Need to buy a Rack and Pinion for my Mazda 3. ACDelco or A1-Cardone?

>How do I learn this shit when I don't have family or friends who give a shit about cars, but I'm interested?

The real OG way is to buy a beater and the Haynes manual for that specific car and jump in with both feet, consulting the Internet as necessary. Also, some junior colleges will have classes you can take.

Thanks, got any good sites for parts (besides the junkyard)?

>Where are good places to buy car parts online?
I get most stuff on Amazon. It's nice to see reviews so I know I'm not buying garbage.
>How do I learn this shit when I don't have family or friends who give a shit about cars, but I'm interested?
Honestly just pull shit out of your car and replace it. Start with small stuff and watch step-by-step guides. As long as you're careful and research how to do stuff, you don't really need to get a beater.

I mostly do bikes, and i mostly look for used parts on Craigslist and Ebay. New parts, I just google "Mikuni carb rebuilt kit" or whatever and find the cheapest one.

You need ignition power too, so make sure that your spark generator is getting power.

I use Rockauto for everything.
I've been burned before on Ebay, so I tend to shy away from it.

rockauto.com

hard to destroy a car before its first service interval

AC Delco is literally GM parts for other makes
the other one is O'reallys tier and they sell some remanufactured parts
that can be a good sign
not usually tho
so i'd go to the rock AND SEE WHAT THEY HAVE COOKIN'
>welcome to the rock, etc.

Anyone?

Probably your power steering pump isn't putting enough, it could be failing due to old age or some shit.

Not sure, depends on the technology it had. Easiest way to check is to just put it on Jacks and throw it in reverse. I know that you can also take apart the dash/odometer assembly and roll it manually too. I did it on my 86 300zx to roll it forward when the odo died to get it roundabout where it should be. Just took off the worm gear from the motor and put it on a drill and spun the drive gear for a few minutes

,000 engine hours (presumably idled a long time)

Suggest you do plugs/wires/cap. Doesnt hurt to start using Castrol GTX high mileage.

Expect to go wrong:
Intake Gaskets
Water Pump
Alternator

They are very good engines (assuming 4.3L). If a bit weak.

*When the old odometer died and I replaced it

in tech there are a lot of these type of diagnostic flow charts. Are there any good ones for troubleshooting car issues?

Rock is sporting both. Hence me asking.

Thanks bud, It does have aftermarket electric ignition so I am worried it might be immobilized too

I poured some fuel down the carb and used some jumpers to run the starter. It turned over and ran for a few seconds before coughing and dying so I guess Im all good apart from fuel.

Personally really like exide

m.youtube.com/watch?v=rwFqGR0JaOU

No, not for generic car issues as differences in design between brands and years made could mean the symptom of a problem could mean two different things on two different cars, or vice versa.

For instance a vacuum leak on car with no maf sensor, or has a carb would cause a high idle and a vacuum leak on a car with a maf would cause a low idle

Check your power steering fluid level, and what color it is, if you have a single accessory belt that powers it check the belt.

What car do you have? I use bavauto and ECS tuning for my BMW's, and summit for my truck.

Battery light comes on 2007 Mazda 3 followed by loss of power steering. Already replaced alternator through warranty and bought a new battery, what else could it be? Going to check fuses in the morning

If you intend to use it to protect your bumper, its going to fail miserably, but 175 sounds fair

Why does everyone recommend the 240sx to start drifting in?

The idea is to get a cheap beater and drift it, all the 240s near me are pushing 4 grand, like fuck I'm going to dent my 4 grand investment.

What can I get sub 2k that will get sideways?

> Waiting for a sale to pop up, or find a set of used ones

> Depends on what type of tire you're buying.

Because they were cheap before drift tax and even after that are cheap to maintain.

Pretty much your only other choice is an e36 which will be more expensive to maintain.

How do I get rid of the drift tax?

Sounds like your car is stalling, unless you have electric power steering

By sucking cock, or winning the drift lottery, or by not being lazy and looking outside your local era for cars.

If you want something bad enough several hundred miles driving to get it is justifiable.

I already extended 250 miles dude, come on

>whenever I try to turn at low speeds without giving it any gas, the wheel is really stiff if that makes any sense.
When the car is moving, the steering wheel turns easily even if there is no power steering. If you remember your bicycle riding days, it's the same principle at work.

But in your case, your power steering is not assisting enough. That can be due to low fluid. Check the power steering fluid level. Older cars like yours can have some leakage, but there is that power steering fluid that will swell the seals slightly to reduce leakage.

>what precautions should i take to prevent myself being fucked over?
Use an OBD2 reader in the car to display any error codes. If there was a CEL recently, the seller could have reset the CEL so that you don't see it until it's too late and you've bought the car.

Check the VIN for the service history and note carefully the odometer mileage is consistently listed. If you detect odometer fraud, report that to the state government. My state wants to be told of all cases and has a webpage for reporting.

Picture shows example of rollback or odometer swap. Also, if there is a gap of very low mileage but it seems the car was used or maintenanced, then the odometer could have been disconnected or swapped out for a different odometer. Then the original odometer was swapped back in later to make all the serial numbers match up before sale to dealer or private party.

>how do you know this much about batteries?
There are all kinds of people online that aren't in the car trade.. For example, there are lots of people with hobbies that make use of deep discharge batteries. So they simply read the literature from their hobby supply shop.

sorry, assumed you were at a brick and mortar b/c only two choices
I'd do the one that doesn't sounds like a mob business that was bought by the chinese
>shoforum.com/index.php?threads/a1-cardone-good-stuff-or-cr-p.107919/
GM has more to lose if their aftermarket parts company kills you as well

'97 Pontiac Grand Prix
>I'm a poorfag right now
Trying to learn how to value and buy cars so I don't get fucked and save cash. Also want to take care of them, but I gotta start from nothing.

It's only got 121,000 miles, but the undercarraige is rusting out due to Wisconsin winters. I should probably do something about that.

I have bad tie rods on my shitbox. Inner and outer, both sides, the boots are fucked up too. I've got 450 miles of driving on Friday, 450 more on Sunday, and no time to do the work. How likely is it that something fails catastrophically?

Is crutchfield a reputable source on car audio?

I don't know my shit, and it needs to get replaced, but I want to get something I won't blow out that doesn't need an amp

Thanks y'all.

Thanks. Also, its a 4.8L V8; how are they?

Can anyone reccomend me a simple 2 din car radio that has red lights?

If I'm working on suspension pieces, is it alright to sit on my wheel? I'm kind of a fatass (270lbs) so I don't want to break my shitty wheels
yes

Okay there are known issues with the solenoids on my trans so thanks for the heads up. What if instead of a power flush I disconnect the inlet and outlet trans cooler lines from the rad and run new fluid in from a hose and bottle?

What steps should I take after I replace a blown radiator hose? I have it on, but I lost a bunch of coolant. Most results from Google say to fill the radiator at the cap but I don't have a cap, just the overflow tank.

>Is crutchfield a reputable source on car audio?
They are authorized dealers for what they sell. They are not gray market. They have also been around for decades.

Sup Veeky Forums, westernyuropoor here that never even had a license.
I've always had a thing for vroomvrooms, in the most juvenile way. To this day i get a real kick out of old beatup diecast cars, drawing or building models of them and ofcourse virtually ramping them over houses and shit.
Especially the irrational part of cars i like. Not necessarily making the fastest or most efficient car with current technology, but modifying or souping up vehicles for whatever weird fetish reason that happens to be your fancy.
But i know not a single thing about them or how they work.

TL;DR
Where can i find online information or literature that gives me a broad introduction of how engines and cars work? Preferably for a layman with non-existent experience in technology and physics.

yeah i do it all the time
t. 260 lb fatass

fill the overflow, then run the vehicle with the cap off for 5-10 minutes
refill if level drops, cap tank quickly if level rises
drive around for 15-30 minutes
let vehicle cool 2-3 hours
refill tank if low

this is tricky but doable
however doing this vs the 4 step method is risky
>running the trans dry while hot
and only saves you time and a bottle of ATF
if you can get a helper it should be fine

>cab companies in the area hiring
Why should/shouldn't I try to become a cab driver?

I drove 500miles to get a car, man up bitch

I've been getting a heap of tyre squeal lately.
Almost every corner and roundabout I go round makes them screech. While I personally don't have any sort of issue with this, it's a red flag to the cops and I really don't want to lose my license.
What are some of the causes of tyre squeal?
Are there any ways to stop or reduce it?