What oil manufacturer makes the best one Veeky Forums? Not counting some special F1 oil...

used to use mobil1, tried out the pennzoil made from natural gas whatever oil, cant really tell the difference. i think the pennzoil might be a little thinner at room temp tho.

royal purple

I run mobil 1 in my 15 year old trans am.

seems to be going good for the past 2 years I've had the car, but I haven't tried anything else.

leased

automatic

frs

...

Just use shitbox oil

Changing your oil is a shit boomer meme, modern cars don't need it

Quart of mobil 1 every 6 months or so because the motherfucker slowly leaks it all away

Modern cars need it more than ever due to the narrow tolerances and increased efficiency of the engines.

Old ones needed it because the oil was shit quality and would goop up really easily.

do people use oil different from the ones listed in their owners manuals?

Mobil1 formula got recently changed and they actually made it worse.

Avoid.

Fuch's titan

I'm a retard. If a fluid is more viscous, is it "runnier" or thicker than a fluid that is less viscous. In other words, Is viscosity a measure of the runniness or stickiness of a fluid?

i use quaker state full synth, everything seems to be going fine atm. recently bought a used vw and wasnt sure if the previous owner was using FS so I went ahead and started using that.

source please

google.com

Yes higher number is a thicker oil

Or a higher viscosity

A double rated oil eg 10w50,5w40 is a measure of viscosity in different temperatures like 10w50 will be the higher number in a lower temperature and the lower number in a warm temperature

...

They've recently started using lower grade base oil for their stuff. Because in the US your oil only has to be a group 3+ base in order to be sold as a full synthetic.

Also the continuing demand for oils that preserve fuel mileage and don't fowl emissions equipment is killing modern oils in gnenral.

...

I use Castrol Magnatec C3 fully synthetic, change with filter every 10k miles..

185,000 miles 1.2 Petrol Corsa C

Still going good too, change your oil frequently guys

Do your own research if you care that much.

look up API base oil classifications, and why dexos1 and ILSAC ratings were created.

He doesn't actually care, he just wants to be a smartass on the internet

obvious samefag is obvious

Best oil for the price

and look up the lawsuit between castrol and mobil 1 about the definition of "synthetic"

To pass oil classifications the oil must at least so good, there is no statement that they cannot be better then said classification. Your statement proves nothing.

I use this for maximum horsepower

>Makes outrageous statements
>Asked for source
>Go find it yourself

540ratblog.wordpress.com/

A long read but you should be able to skim through and find a good one.

>lawsuit between castrol and mobil 1
1st-in-synthetics.com/a_defining_moment_for_synthetics.htm

'If the technical societies adopt the broader definition of synthetics, it will force more performance-driven specifications in the market and the term 'synthetic' will become meaningless."

Sounds like a whole lot of nothing to me.

>In a ruling released April 1999
1999 sure is relevant
mfw

...

>court rulings are only effective during the year they were announced

>court rulings are only effective during the year they were announced

wow then it is truly meaningless now
Literally nothing.

I use regular ol' Valvoline

...

>all these people wasting extra money on meme oil

enjoy giving your money to the oil jew

put this shit in last time because it was on sale

Cant beat 11.50 for 5 quarts of oil.

>Mobil1 formula got recently changed and they actually made it worse.
The 540RAT oil database has test results for various oils. Retests are done for oils every now and then because oil formulations change. Some oils go up, some go down, and some never really go down but later may go up. Pennzoil platinum and mobil1 synthetics were ones that went downwards in terms of absolute PSI score.

Can you go one year between synthetic oil changes if you never even come close to the mileage limit?

Depends on your driving and environment. Should usually be okay though.

cheapest oil you can get.
there is absolutely no difference.

Pretty much this, long as it's got an ASE stamp on it you're set.
I like rotela t6 tho since it works in my motorcycles and my cars and trucks, one oil to handle everything.

On measurements, pennzoil is generally the best

Doesn't entirely mean it'll make a big difference, but it's cheap as the other oils

What ever cheap 10w-40 they carry.
Not even putting 4T oil in my bike.

SAE* lol

I use what the model specific autistic recommend on model specific forums. For my Saabs that is rotella t6. In my Jeep I now use some high mileage, I forget the brand, used to use mobile one. When I get a boxer I'll use what they recommend.

I prefer Pennzoil Platinum because it scored the best according to some completely arbitrary and unrealistic tests done on a site I forgot the name of. That's good enough for me, as long as it's full synthetic and not some no-brand shit it will probably do all the same. I can't help but notice my oil PSI has gone up about 15 PSI after ~2 weeks since adding Pennzoil's High Mileage so that's cool. Either it's unusually thin or it really is cleaning out the engine like it says its designed to do.

Super Tech from walmart. Rebranded quaker state

That's not really how oil pressure works....

Low oil pressure is caused by excessive clearances or leaks. High oil pressure is caused by restrictions.

So by gaining 15 PSI of pressure, that essentially means your fancy new oil is causing a restriction somewhere, probably clogging up a screen or filter somewhere with all the junk it's flushing out.

Think of it like this - you try to put 100 gallons of water through a 2" hole in 30 seconds, you have an arbitrary pressure value. You put the same water through a .5" hole in the same amount of time, does your arbitrary pressure value go up or down? Same thing is happening in your engine.

It's actually slowing down your fiesta, because it's too heavy for your 35 torks to carry on the Pistons.

I bet your oil temps have never once seen racing temps.

10w40, whatevers cheapest, my cars only worth like 300.

I'm expecting it to have clogged the shit out of the filter, it has had around 140,000 miles of shitty conventional oils all changed by mechanic shops who just recycle old oils of mystery weights instead of giving you actual new ones. Gotta get it out somehow, but I'd hate to change the oil and filter twice in two months with my current budget.

animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf

Weeb oil is best oil

Does Wix make good filters? Figured they'd be a step up from the fram filters my dad has been using

Redline Oils in California
>mfw plebes think Mobil1 is worth a damn

Wix is an average, consistent filter. Wix is God tier *compared to a FRAM*.

AMSOIL, my dudes.

youtube.com/watch?v=sdRHGXsFwds

At least he's getting his Zinc, Phosphorus, Calcium and possibly Molybdenum/Boron. I bet he's regular as fuck too.

I wonder what motor oil shits are like.

Fuck, this guy seems like he's doing alright. Maybe he knows something I don't.

I use Wix XP, Mahle, or Mann, depending on which one is on sale.

Mobil, Motul and Red Line.

This. Or Rotella T6.

I use castrol because honda knows their shit about reliability and recommends it.

Last updated in 2013

>Rebranded quaker state

I run an Oil Change shop.
Basically, as long as your oil meets norms specified by car manufacturer, its good enough. However, putting better oil in your car can and will increase its lifespan. For example, synthetic oils clean the engine much, much better than regular dino and semisynths. They also are more resistant to pH changes (important if you're driving on LPG) and store sud more effectively (important for diesel engines).

Brands that I run - Castrol, Motul, Total, Elf, Mobil, in order of popularity.
In order of quality - Motul, Eni (I don't sell it for some time now, but still, very good oil), Valvoline, Castrol, Total/Elf, Mobil.
Also, Total/Elf make the best gear oils, period. Motul takes second place, Castrol third.

For filters (since its kinda relevant) - get Mann, Mahle, or Wix/Filtron. Avoid Bosch.

As for that Castrol vs Mobil on definition of synthetic oil shit - it really makes a difference. Basically Castrol stated that hydrokracked oils should also be named as synthetics.
What does this mean in terms of oil quality? Hydrokracked oil will rarely be as good as fully synthetic one. Anyway, most of Castrol lineup is hydrokracked, but named as synthetic, whereas other manufacturers state if the oil is kracked (HC Synthese, Technosynthese, synthetic technology etc) or full synth.
A lot depends also on mineral base used in the kracking, the better the base, the better the oil will be.

What metric are you basing the quality of oil on? Are you also generally assuming a 5W30 when you rank the brands?

FRAM filters or nothing.

>Need to change oil in sr20de
>Only walmarts near me
>Lookup fram filter says ph4386 should fit
>Go to change filter and its not even close wont even go on enough to touch the threads
>Call fram 1-800 number talk to guy who doesn't believe and is really confused at how this is possible
>Transfers me to another department that hangs up on me immediately after answering.

Thanks fram you da best.

Castrol errrry time

I base quality on pragmatic experience. For example, lets take my customers car, BMW e60, 3.0d. Over 500kkm on the clock. Oil changed every 15-18kkm, up till a year ago it was Castrol Edge TD 5w40. Sure enough, engine runs ok. We change the oil to Motul X-Clean 5w40. You know how in diesel engines, oil gets black right after change? As in you put in new oil, you run the engine for 30 seconds and check the level, its already black in most of the cases? Well, on second Motul change, it did not get black for over 800km, only gradually. What does that mean? Motul cleared the sud that Castrol failed to clean, stored it, and most of it went out with drained oil. That means quality for me, measured in something else than just manufacturer norms (both these oils meet BMW LL-04 norm). Other stuff, same car - engine runs smoother, and gets better mpgs. Customer has this car for over 6 years and made most of the kms on it. I trust that this is not just placebo effect.
So far none of the customers we switched from various oils to Motul said they wanted to go back to their old brands.
Motul quirk - engines eat it more than other oils. Not much more, but they seem to do so.

I also compare oils by viscosity, yes, so I compare 5w30 to 5w30, 10w40 to 10w40 and so on, but when Castrol (here at least) has only 2 10w40 oils (Magnatec and GTX), both of which are quite expensive, both of which meet at most API SL/CF norm, Motul has 3 10w40 oils, the 2100, which meets same norms as both Castrol 10w40's, the 4100 and 6100 which meet higher norms, also the 6100 is hydrocracked oil. That means its synthetic technology oil, not your regular semi synth, and it meets API SN norm.

Thanks for a legit answer on Veeky Forums

What about the formulation makes Motul better in general? I'm guessing that kind of info his all proprietary, so you may not know. I'm just curious how two oils that meet a certain base standard can still perform drastically different.

cont... perform drastically different and you aren't paying a huge premium for it. Motul isn't that much more expensive from what I've seen.

I do not know formulations, that stuff is never explained to us, we only get the marketing blablabla our stuff is better. But I have the means to actually check it, as in my customers (those that clock many kms) report if their engine actually runs and feels better, or gets better mileage.

Castrol quirk - Magnatec stuff really works, we've taken apart 2 engines that ran on Magnatec 5w40 and they were covered with oil inside - as in a thin layer of oil stayed on the engine surfaces long, long after it ran (in second case we took the engine apart after 3 days, and we did not run it during this time).
Another Castrol quirk - their Edge lineup seems to have gotten better with that Titanium stuff, but I do not know if its titanium or they got their shit together.

R O Y A L
O
Y
A
L

P U R P L E
U
R
P
L
E

Pennzoil platinum. Gave ultra a shot which will be emptied soon. Wonder how it'll look like.

>Castrol magnatec.
Wonder if I should try this in my mower since it turns over every odd week.

Doesn't matter. Loose tolerances on mover engines. Get Briggs&Stratton 10w30 for cheap, Magnatec is expensive.
Oil change shop dude off to sleep, cheers.

So am I to understand that Motul will effectively suspend all of the loosened contaminants between changes to the point where it will be okay to drive a full 4-5k miles between changes, and still get a good flushing effect?

Or should I do a single Motul "flush" per se by only driving 500-1000 miles on the fresh oil and replace it again, for maximum sludge removal?

I noticed that my fresh Castrol GTX High Mileage oil did indeed turn black within a single journey from my workshop, approximately 17 miles on the freeway.

Will sticking with Castrol and rapidly changing (

Thanks again. Do any of your customers track their cars or put them through heavy duty, high rpm use? If so what oils have you observed with them?

I'll try the magnatec. My toy car tends to sit around a lot, and that thin layer definitely would make me feel better when I fire it up after awhile.

Ever seen an oil change?

Do you think he has a chance of leaking if he switched to synthetic?

What about using synthetic 5w30 in my mower? Already have it around for my car. I live in the gta.

>Avoid Bosch.
but bosch's premium line of filters are great