/ccg/-Classic Car General
A thread devoted to the appreciation all classics regardless of nationality or condition.
/ccg/-Classic Car General
A thread devoted to the appreciation all classics regardless of nationality or condition.
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I straightened out the cable and operation from within the car seems to work now.
Thanks guys. I know it's a simple thing but fixing it made me feel good about myself.
The 302 is in, running, and running well.
kek, what did he do?
Reverse two plug wires, iirc.
This is not how you do a firing order swap.
Probably reversed more than two, he read the diagram upside down. All good now, though, doesn't seem like he damaged anything.
Dumping some automotive pornography to get this party started.
Normally not a big fan of LUVs, but fuck me does this one look mean.
Normally not a big fan of wagons, but fuck me does this one look mean.
And this one.
I can convert you
More like crack whore snapshots.
Different strokes for different folks, I like em' with scars, grit, and stories.
Sometimes I wonder why I have so many wagons saved on my computer, maybe I'm just in denial.
>tfw you live in Vegas and see remnants of the cool, stylish, somewhat more wholesome classic Vegas era
>now it's an awful place that thrives on taking money from retarded foreigners and californians
>any remnants of class have been completely washed away and replaced with absurd levels of degeneracy and consumerism
>The California Casino in that picture is now in a shit-tier part of the city
>I had to go in the abandoned hotel across the street from it for a job
>the high rise is filled with trash, drug needles and vandalized rooms
>also some weird dressed-up mannequins that some insane person set up to scare people
This place is trash. I wish the mafia would come back.
How hard is it to make smogmuscle good?
>17 second 1/4 mile
It really isn't.
Aluminum heads, a nice mild cam, bump compression to 9.5:1. It'll probably double output.
check forums specific to that car. there should be a guide to removing the smog pumps and the other controls strangling it.
Depends on your skill set and budget. One of the more popular Pontiac smog-era heads is the big valve large chamber 6X casting which might very well have come on those particular Lemans, I don't remember off the top of my head. But shave the heads, get a head gasket with a smaller crush thickness, run a pretty nasty cam (big engines tend to "tame" more radical camshafts) and valve springs that can take it- The stock Pontiac dual plane intake is pretty good, just port match the gaskets, block the heat risers in the heads. If you're so inclined you can spring for like a Holley carb (700cfm thereabouts). Or the more budget minded approach would be jamming on the Quadrajet (rebuild with a typical kit, hog out the fuel bowl crossover, play with jets/metering rods). Snag a used set of long tube headers, bump the timing forward a little bit and fuel it with 93.
These are the best threads on Veeky Forums.
I've been looking at remanufacturing companies like dynacorn, they look nice in theory, but my god the prices start to climb quickly if you wanted to build a whole car using them. A 9k chassis quickly jumps to a 40k rolling chassis with all exterior trim pieces but no interior or drivetrain
or just put a fittec on it instead of a carb
Expensive in and of itself, requires a high pressure electric fuel pump which entails modifying the existing basket or fabricating something to accept the electric pump in the tank which is slightly dicey work for the uninitiated (or blow the budget entirely and go with an aeromotive tank with a pump already in it)- And all ultimately for a marginal improvement (maybe) over a well-tuned carburetor.
Or I suppose you could go external pump but those are also rather pricey, still require modifying the tank, and if not mounted and plumbed properly the pump will die.
it may be a bit pricey but I found it relatively easy to install.
Maybe for a complete novice this would be difficulty but for the average car guy it is not that hard.
I've found it safer to assume everyone including people who say they're experienced are novices- But it was less any actual difficulty I was getting at when I said "dicey" but that grinding/brazing what have you on a tank that once had gasoline in it is an uncertain affair.
I posted this in the other thread not knowing there was a new one. My Impala is finally done! I could only be more psyched if I wasn't stuck at work until Sunday.
Finally got my bumper sticker lol
That tailpipe is hilarious.
Yeah, it had no muffler when I bought it, so I picked up a cheap cherry bomb and slapped it on lol. I'll be rerouting it across the back when I get around to it.
>Roll over a speed bump or large pothole
>tfw haven't driven my beuehk in 2 or 3 weeks
Feels Bad. I got my front disk brake conversion kit and everything in the mail, but I don't have two days to install for another week..
Very cool car, my man.
I guess ill post my shitbox again
I bought this for 7k at an auction. Original owner from Canada and had never restored it. Paint was like new and the interior was almost perfect. They put in a supertuner II in the 80's sadly but thats a gem in itself. The crome is pretty shot but I have felt no need to ever replace it, I like this car how it is, unrestored.
Its a 350 rocket (non ramrod) bore is 4.057 and stroke is 3.385 compression ratio is 10.88:1. It was rated at 310 bhp factory but over the years I bet that has sharply dropped. My cam sounds old and tired and the car is going nowhere fast.
Damn, I guess I should go to an auction.
Its rolling the dice I just got lucky on what I got. I have seen people get screwed with auction cars before. Just know what you are looking fore before hand and do tons of research on that to make sure you are getting what you pay for.
>tfw its friday night and i dont have anywhere 2 go
At least its not snowing and your classic is tucked away for warmer weather.
>TFW wipers are fucked
>TFW doesn't matter anyway because I haven't taken the time to sort out the starting issue
Time to kms
at least your classic is in one piece
'74 or '75 camaro?
Not even close its a '78 ws6 trans am.
The pic is a few months old but I have not done much work except take off the airbox, brake booster and master cylinder as well as the steering, clutch and other bits and bobs. plan on taking off the subframe and glass soon.
FUCK I responded to myself instead of you
This was the durdiest car I have ever cleaned. It had dog poop, rat poop, coon poop, human poop (no shit) and unidentifiable poop. as well as a mountain of mice corpses and garbage that was thrown in the car. I went through two cans of lacquer thinner to sanitize this thing and its still grotty.
Pic of the cleanest part
Now, c'mon Camaro and Firebird have a lot of shared parts. Most of what is in the pic could be either car. I didn't think those were Pontiac motor mounts so I had to guess Camaro.
I have a '69 Firebird 400.
I missed those Pontiac wheels..
Oh fuck me. Is it worth it? What model?
I had a 65 Dart I bought for $1000 that I had to clean lots of mouse shit and nests out of. It never smelled right, but it was fun to fix up and helped me finance the repairs to my Impala once I sold it.
Not judging they had a lot of common parts throughout the years but the sway bar should have given it away. I have a pontiac 400 w72 in this thing but one cylinder is pretty shot.
I always love people with Pontiacs and more specifically firebirds, I would love pics of your ride.
I don't have a stock picture of it, I'll have to take a picture tomorrow in the daylight. Best I can do is this one - it's beside the Ford convertible in this pic.
I don't know second generation well enough to have known about the sway bar.
nice m8 im waiting
This is the oil that was in the car
It looked like cum when it came out and the frightful discovery that the carb was off this car and it fucking rain water got in.
got it for 3k with no rust except the floorpans where rain got in and pool'd. funny enough they spilled a can of grease that saved the drivers side from rusting.
Can anyone help with carburetor issues? More specifically quadrajet. I'm looking to try and fix this before going for a Holley double pumper.
These books are comfy and are good for learning about your carb and how to fix issues with them. Try and find a pdf and learn :)
3k for a literal shitmobile? I dunno, bro.
This is my comfy general I go on to chill out. You guys always seem like you love each other's cars and are truly interested in them. There is normally no GM BTFO or other shit memes and arguing and you keep kit Kat contained for the most part. I have thought of buying a classic just to feel like I can post instead of just lurk. Someday.... Someday....
What's going on or what problems are you having?
3k For a 78 ws6 with no rust is actually a good deal. It is also a borg warner 4 speed on top of being a ws6 w72 car so it is a valuable car. It is just going to take alot of love.
Fuck off, we're full.
Nah, I'm kidding. Buy a beater and join the club. But honestly, it's an illness that rarely ends with you owning just one classic.
It also causes you to curse and bleed and spend every penny you've got, so be warned.
Flash pic in the dark, keep it covered up because of old window seals and water getting under the vinyl roof. I took the 400 hood and bumper off so they would not get damaged.
Factory disc brakes, deluxe interior, YT code 400 RA3, Rally wheels, cruise control.
Had it for 20 years, gone over 100k miles in it.
I keep a heavy duty trash bag over the engine to prevent rain from getting into the engine, the hood badges leak water.
I believe you. But I'm not riding in the shitmobile.
As proof of the illness I speak of.
I'll post pics anyway. I rebuilt a SBC350, and an M4MC Rochester quadrajet. I got a rebuild kit from carbkitsource. It included a lot of new stuff. I replaced the Jets, among other things. Didn't replace the float. Didn't replace the metering rods. The car will start, and sputter and snort but will run, albeit a little stumbly. Soon after, maybe 15 seconds of running, the carb will start dripping fuel out the sides down into the intake valleys.
It's definitely not the plugs, those look good. I adjusted the float once, bending it so while the bowl fills, it will close the valve or whatever sooner. That helped slightly, but it still leaked after a time. Did it again, with the float nearly straight, and it helped a tiny bit more, but still leaks.
Do you think the float is just bad and not floating anymore? Can I just take off the airhorn and fill the bowl with fuel to see if it's job is being performed? I'm not sure what to do. Pics related, where the leaks SEEM to be coming from
So I heard this was the Pontiac thread?
That picture is the passenger side, by the choke. That arrow is pointing to where the fuel drips from on that side. Coming from that linkage and coming down that way.
This pic is drivers side, circled where it seems to be leaking from still
Thanks a ton bro love the car, my dad used to own one that was silver that got him into being a pontiac enthusiast.
If you ever are able to go to PSMCDR there are a ton of firebird enthusiast that would love your ride.
Hope to keep you guys posted on my progress but college makes it hard to get home to work on it.
(pic of pop's GOAT at the drags)
Yep, I got the disease..
'64 LeMans convertible, '66 Tempest Safari wagon in the garage, '69 Firebird 400, '70 LeMans safari wagon with 335HP 400.
Classics aren't all expensive to own. Some can even be relatively cheap!
Definitely just a Chevrolet thread
Hey, it's better than heroin.
If it's leaking out around the throttle shafts, it is flooding (needle valve and seat)
Buy a corvair for a cheap good classic
But pontiac will always be bae....so 61 tempest?
If you didn't replace the accelerator pump, that's generally the first thing I jump to when dealing with a stumble. If you just replaced like gaskets, needle and seat but didn't blow out the main circuit, that's another possible explanation for the stumble. As for the leaking, a gasket may have gotten pimped when you put it back together, there's also a known issue with the well-plugs on Qjets where they were mounted for casting in the factory, they'll develop a leak and just piss fuel. Simply epoxying these is a good way to go for fixing that, and that's what I'd put my money on for leakage problem.
So for about 4k what can I expect. I have money for a new car to replace my econobox but I have no idea what to look for in a classic or if I'm getting screwed.
I bought my Dart on eBay for $1000, had it on the road in a month. Would've been sooner, but I kept getting the wrong fucking parts for the brakes.
4k is a great starting point. I bought my 1965 Impala for 3800, road ready, and my 1969 International Harvester for 3500, road ready. Take a peek at Craig's list, you'll find something you like, no doubt. Most people will dicker, too.
Classics are an illness you buy one then cant stop. I wasted my college fund on and then found this and couldn't help myself now I am in serious shit and need to sell off my 69.
Just remember one is enough and corvair is always the answer to budget classics
4k is the asking price for my '69 Firebird, most common year, lots of them around. hard to find one that has been left stock though.
Problem is it needs a lot of rust repair. Good mechanical condition, would drive it anywhere so long as it doesn't rain!
Depending on where you live, I wouldn't make a classic a daily. If you're south and won't face a snowy winter, then you're fine.
And as far as what to expect, it really depends on your area. Find a car that interests you. Look around. Learn about it BEFORE you buy it. With cars these old it will be easy to figure it out.
I believe I changed the seats. Maybe I need new needles. Is there anything to the seats besides tightening them? Does orientation matter?
I did replace the accelerator pump, and it does work. I can manually move it and see fuel come up when I have the airhorn off.
I guess I could say the throttle doesn't really do much with the engine. It doesn't really seem to cause it to Rev higher or anything, just stays alive
>I believe I changed the seats. Maybe I >need new needles. Is there anything to >the seats besides tightening them? >Does orientation matter?
Needle and seat are matched, you change them together. Since you changed the seat I can safely guess you have a Rochester (and not a Carter).
Orientation? Just tight. And there is a little ring gasket that goes under it.
It's flooding, and drowns the engine, we all have that happen with old carburetors, welcome to the club.
If you park it for a while, I had one car that the carb will flood when it first fills with fuel and then if you let it sit for a half-hour then it will not flood.
Get a kit from NAPA, they will want the number (something like 7029268 or 7040262), will usually be found stamped into the fuel bowl assembly toward the back of the carb by the secondary on the left side.
I see the carb number in your pic, looks like it ends with 203. Probably 404?203 chevy carb number.
I'm liking this theme anyone else got any more Pontiacs?
704?203 .. 7040203 is 1970 300HP 350CI stock carb. That fourth number is the last number of the model year.
Better pic of my Lemans convertible daily driver.
Has over 550k miles, owned 33 years.
It's a 1977 Corvette.
You are my fucking hero. Bravo, man.
And yes, Rochester.
Fuck i dont know which one of our dailys eats more gas.
Love the cars dude, Pontiac is love.
This appears to be it.
But where are the needles?
This thread needs more chebby
7045203 Rochester R4-M4MC, that's probably it.
1975 Chevy Camaro Malibu Chevelle 350 with 4 speed trans.
Lower left, by all those little ring gaskets.
Can't wait to take some pictures with the new paint job.
My kit has those, but they don't look at all like the stock needles.
The old '64 LeMans 326 can give me between 20 and 21 MPG on extended highway trips. 14-16 in town, worse in winter.
FUCK CHEVY THIS IS A PONTIAC THREAD
(but seriously chevy had its time before the emissions act of 70 then pontiac took the lead...until the 301 and 305 corporate then everyone was slow)