[ D a i l y - B i k e - T h r e a d ] - /dbt/

...
Pretty much just looking across the state of KY for shitbikes or good deals that I can spare and be worth.
I wish I were that lucky. All the DR650's I've seen here, none have been under 2k. If I ever see one for under 2k... mmm I'll fuck that bike till it's mine.

I got pretty fucking lucky, not going to lie. It wasn't perfect by any means, but I'm beginning to realize that it was a damn good deal. Old dude I bought it from had a 1-car garage full of motorcycles and motorcycle stuff that fit on, through, and around the normal detritus of organized-chaos old person life. If I remember correctly, he had three dirtbikes including the DR650, two sportbikes, a BMW tourer, and a funny little Honda scooter (the one with the 80's angles; it was maroon). I can't remember the names of all the bikes since I was a noob at the time, but it was fun to just shoot the shit with him about his bikes, amateur racing exploits, and offroad adventures in New Mexico.

Suzuki SV650 2017 (left) or KTM 390 Duke (Right). are these scammy prices

Nice find dude. I find the west has all kinds of nice bikes for sale and for dirt cheap prices. I've checked all states that surround KY, a few good 'looking' deals every once in a while, but at the time already had a bike. Recently it's mostly just shitbikes that probably cost more than they are worth.

>are these scammy prices
The 17 SV650 is an almost brand spanking new production. I'm not surprised it's 8k with taxes and shit. Can't tell you about the KMT though.

I have a benis made just for u bby

Love u too bby. Dont be jelly about me and justin

Still want that boipucci

the KTM is a 2016 but they want to make room for a 2017. but i didnt expect them to be ths expensive

It's a year old, it's gonna be pretty 'expensive', user. Bikes don't depreciate like cars because they are in demand, especially SV's new line (after quite a few years) and KTM's.

>Thinking anyone cares about what a filthy poo stabbing AIDS spreading poofta faggot thinks or wants.

>Ktm

Indian garbage bike. Get the shitty sv650 and enjoy riding a reliable shitbiek untill you die.

You seem to care a lot about me bby ;) i know u have a crush on me :p

What's wrong with an SV? I wouldn't get a new one, because it's practically the same bike as the old ones. But there's nothing wrong with an SV, it certainly isn't a shitbike.

i heard you summon me a few days ago
whats good senpai

someone mention the SV?

They're pretty cool famiglia

Bike
>48€tax
>~300€ insurance for 10k km
>6,5l/100km
>probably new tires every year

Car
>26€ tax
>280€ insurance for 20k km
>5,3/100km
>40€ oilchange a year

Don't know how much fluids for my bike will be, I have it for like 5 weeks now

did you get a ribbed seat because thats how you like your dildos?

yes for her pleasure.

and also the stock seat is the most uncomfortable thing i've ever sat on. High school desk chairs are softer.

So you want pleasure on your boipucci

All that effort to make the frame kind of interesting to put that shit ass swingarm on the back. Apart from that if I was in the market for a 6-800cc the sv naked would be my first choice.

Except I'm in the market for pic related

> shit swingarm.

I agree, i still think the whole package is an improvement on the gladius and i like the new trellis frame from the old SV.

Tbh, I would have gotten the old one, i had just found this one on craigslist. Some guy dropped it with 25 miles on it, and got spooked so he sold it to me for less than MSRP.

Join me Gents are we explore the mechanical fuckery I've experienced today.

>on the way to work
>get of freeway 3/4 of the way there
>decelerating, downshifting weird
>come to a stop, clutch lever is missing, clutch perma-engaged
>stall
>run bike across intersection and on to sidewalk
>cable pulling clutch, clutch actuating push lever on case properly... problem is in case. FUCK
>start it up in neutral, walk start it and jam it in first every time I stop, clutchless shift to work
>take company truck and bring bike home.
>open up clutch cover and find pic related inside.
>center threaded push rod is meant to have a lock nut on it.
>lock nut and washer are missing...

did it just rattle out?

As long as there's no frame damage then you are good to go

On a 1300cc bike thats unbelievable. Can't even put it down to a kid owning it and not knowing how to maintain it properly.

Doesn't even look like it ever had a washer. Sure it was on there before?

>missing nut and washer are floating around somewhere in engine
>adjuster shaft allowed to freely spin and remove ability to actuate clutch
>theresyourproblem.pdf
>now begins the 4 hour hunt for a small piece of metal inside an enclosed larger piece of metal.
>as a bonus "fuck you" the missing nut tried to escape through the clutch cover and cracked it causing a huge oil leak. Pic related.

yeah, it was pretty much immaculate i just gotta fix some plastics and replace the bar ends. Easy peasy.

>1300ccm bike
I thought that's how much oil goes into it

how much do you think thats going to cost to fix user?

It can't be anywhere other than in the clutch case, You will have to take the engine out of the frame to take that case off though.

presumably yes. I had been hearing an odd rattle for a day or two but couldnt figure out where it was coming from.

I had taken the bike to the track on Sunday, likely what had did it in.

>On a 1300cc bike thats unbelievable.
It's a 249cc bike. that 1300cc is the oil capacity.

>Can't even put it down to a kid owning it and not knowing how to maintain it properly.
More on this later.

it was on there.

I'll get to that.

I'll get to that too.

What is the point of comparing either a fast bike or a piece of shit to an economy car. You could get a 250 or 300 that gets 3L/100km and is still 100 times more fun than your econobox.

You might be able to find it just by removing the clutch basket try that first.

R&G frame, swingarm and bar end sliders saved me from writing mine off. Had to pay for all new R&G shit but oh well.

My bad, I'm thinking back to old Honda's I used to ride (pic related) which have the CC stamped into the engine casing I think this was to stop kids buying the 50cc and putting a 125cc in and riding illegally.

>obviously I have to start tearing the engine down or risk a rogue nut or washer floating/bouncing into the transmission and causing all kinds of fucked up shit
>take clutch cover off to discover the issue, no clearance to even try to look for missing parts
>take side cover off and disassemble clutch to discover pic related.
>washer was sitting right below crank shaft
>missing nut no where in sight.

yeah, i just bought engine guard, and tail tidy. I'm looking for some swingarm and frame sliders right now actually any recommendations? Some dude locally recommended I get shoguns?

My last oil change cost $100 not including a new oil filter, depends on the oil you decide to use and how much it needs i guess.

From the discussion of the previous thread that one user currently can't afford bike+car and that a bike is a kinda expensive hobby
Can't crosslink because phoneposter

>washer wasn't mangled, that's a good sign.
>where is that nut...?
>magnetic part picker upper is too large to fit in tiny oil galley into sump
>30 minutes to run to Harbor Freight before it closes, made it.
>grab smaller magnetic part picker upper and poke around in case through small opening in clutch housing
>no dice

I didn't really mean to single out posting your expenses in particular, just comment on the entire premise.of putting performance bikes against commuter cars.

>get drastic and drain all fluids and start laying bike down on left and right side with magnetic part picker in oil galley hole in hopes that nut will shift back and forth and eventually find its way to the magnet
>30 minutes later of dead lifting bike over and over, pull part picker magnet out and find pic related.
>obviously this nut has seen some shit.

...

How the hell did it cost that? I can do a full engine service including filters (air and oil), plugs and oil for ~£80 on a litre bike. That's doing all the work myself and it looks like you do to?

I've not seen that brand in the UK, we have pic related and a couple of others but these are by far the biggest seller. The only issue with frame sliders is if they dig in they can flip the bike fucking up both sides. R&G so frame sliders that bolt up to the engine frame point and swingarm sliders that you just tap in with a mallet. They also do a good range of clutch/engine covers to help prevent burning through the engine casing in a high speed off. I bought R&G frame slider, swigarm sliders, bar ends, clutch and engine covers as well as a tail tidy because I am autistic as fuck about making it all match.

fuck, gib paso. Love how goddamn 90s they look. Is it yours? If so, how's it run? Fun to ride? Heavy as fuck? Might be my next bike in a few years' time.

>think to myself that this cannot be an issue caused at the factory
>This has "some retard with a wrench" written all over it.
>start inspecting disassembled clutch parts
>find pic related.
>wasn't absolutely obvious at first but you can tell in the first pic of the clutch assembled on the bike
>the hex part of the adjuster was not even indexed into the hex hole in the pressure plate correctly.
>it was aligned improperly and tightened down so the adjuster hex nut cut its own grooves into the pressure plate.
>see small grooves in aluminum pressure plate in pic
>Had to hammer it out
>obviously if the dumb fuck couldn't even get this simple 'hex part into hex hole' shit done correctly, he couldn't have been trusted to properly adjust adjuster lock to to spec.

It takes 3.8 litres of pic related

>obviously cant put it back together without locknut
>assemble it back 95% of the way and need to stop by Yamaha in the morrow to get new nut and coolant/oil
>now on to the leaking case
>pic related on the inside.

The fuck...
That's actual peg-in-hole shit.
A literal monkey can do it.
I don't even...

>clutch cover isn't that bad
>take hammer and wood to it to set it back to normal as best as I can on the outside.

>spray the ever living fuck out of the clutch cover with brake cleaner then rough it up with 250 grit paper.
>spray the fuck out of it again and then sill it partially with brake cleaner and let it leak through crack to try to get every bit of oil out

In the UK we pay half that for oil, and that's taking into account exchange rates. We get fisted raw over petrol prices though. Is Motul more expensive over there or something? I switched to Power 1 Racing a while back and running noticeable cooler, although I stopped riding like suck a dickhead.

>mix up some JB weld and fill crack in on outside and inside

Hopefully this will seal it up.

I also sprayed the fuck out of the adjuster shaft tog et the oil off and when i get the new adjuster lock nut I'll be using thread lock and torquing it properly to make sure this shit cant happen again.

I know user. I know.

Lesson learned. Go throughly over a used bike. even crack the side covers to make sure everything is in order. There's no telling what sort of dumbfuckery is lurking inside just waiting to ruin your day/week/month.

This could have been much worse. Luckily it was just an afternoon to mostly fix. If that nut hat gotten eaten up but the trans I'd be looking to get a new motor right now.

Pic related is how she sits until I get new fluids and the new lock nut and put the clutch cover back on.

did you inspect whatever chewed up the nut?

No way to do it without splitting the case.

In my magnetic part searching I didn't pick up any trans cogs or anything so that's a good sign.

The gearsets are a much harder steel than the nut so whatever chewed it up is likely in better shape. If something had gotten it really good the nut would have been in worse shape and I would probably be looking at catastrophic case failure with the gearsets popping themselves apart

Whatever damage that was done, if any, will remain a mystery until something internally fails justifying me splitting the case and doing a full rebuild or buying a new motor.

There is nothing that cannot be fixed with JB weld, duct tape, or WD40

>no USD forks

Don't forget the ty-raps
t. professional technician

The only difference between a set of good USD forks and a good set of conventional forks is that the USD forks will leak all over the fucking place, including your brake rotors when a seal goes bad while the conventional forks will leave a bit of residue and can be fixed at your leisure.

>Likely moving to Winslow
>Likely going to get a Dual Sport/Enduro
>Probably a Sumo conversion kit too if available
>On the fence about keeping R3 as it'll largely be useless

>implying an R3 wasn't useless the moment it was bought.

>beginnerbike gets replaced by something more suiting
What a turn of events

yes, zip ties are also to tier.

I'm pretty freaking happy with my bright red Africa Twin.
Great quality, comfortable, fast enough, long range. Makes the KTM 690 look like something made in india.

that's not quite true, USD forks provide slightly better rigidity on the race track. I appreciate that's largely irreverent for most people on this forum.
Ultimately I got a bike with gold USD forks because I like the look. I'm ok with saying that.

>nobike watches cycle gear and suddenly is the messiah of automotive knoweledge

is a 1994 honda sb400sf a viable choice for a begginer?

A decent choice. If you're never ridden before, a single or twin is ideal for getting to grips with clutch control as you can lean on the low down torque to help you a bit. An early CB500 would be a good alternative, though the SB400SF isn't a terrible choice.

thanks, I'll take cb500 into consideration as well
it appears in my area it's actually easier and cheaper to get a 500 over 400

Give me one good reason without memes why I shouldn't get this
>pro tip
You can't

ITS D-DUMB!!

The 1150GS can take more abuse
All ride by wire
Balance shaft

go ahead user that's a nice medium sized cruiser ship!

Power wise there's not a lot between the 400 and 500, you just get a higher red line with the 400 and the power is all in the top end with nothing in the bottom, whereas the 500 is a bit more linear on the power band.

really? that 400 is 1994 so before vtec and all that

what I'm looking for is a bike I could learn with but also would last me a long time

TELEMEMER FORK (meme included for pun purposes).

here you go.

And that's bad because?

Zero feeling.

Wrong.

Maybe less, but you still feel shit.

Sure feel like shit. Fork diving is helpful in aggressive cornering, it help you to know when decrease braking and increase lean.

>aggressive cornering
>on a medium battle cruiser
>with the payload hanging off the sides

Hello, I can do both things and more.

I don't think the 400s use VTEC anyway, but the '94 400 is 53hp and the 94 500E is 58hp so there's really not much in it. Pretty much identical weight too.

>with the payload hanging off the sides

Also, the duc is more aimed at aggressive riding, the GS at touring.

well the post 2001 400s got vtec from what I gather
anyway, thanks for the advice

Is there a general consensus on the best way to reverse park a motorbike?

So if I want to park in Star I generally do this.

That's the way they teach it in the Netherlands, so yeah.
Though it would be easier to park it in a bottom space in this picture.

>Though it would be easier to park it in a bottom space in this picture.

Any reason for that?

Pretty new to motorbikes. I did my countries version of the MSF course but they didn't cover this, oddly enough.

Not crossing the incoming lane.

Ah, that makes sense. We drive on the left in my backwards country. Thanks user.