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questions that dont deserve their own thread / small or stupid question thread

where is the best place to find cheap wrecked cars that are otherwise intact? i want to pick up a whole wrecked camaro/firebird/other older muscle car and remove the entire drivetrain from engine to diff for a project transplanting it into a completely different car and it seems more straightforward and cheap than buying everything separately especially for having old mounts and stuff for fabricating and those other small bits you dont even think of until youre already half way done.

2000 ford focus that I bought for $1500, put 6k miles on it in about a year, won't start.

I jumped it, it started but as soon as we removed the jumper cables it instantly died. Tried again and didn't even start.

Bought a new battery and it didn't start at all.
So if it's not the battery is it the alternator?

also should I just get a shitty new car? it is stuck in the lowe's parking lot that i work at.

bump

Sounds like alternator. I coulda kinda tell in my car when the alternator was going out. At idle the whole car's interior lights would shudder a lot and feel like it was about to die. Shit sucked.

When do you need to change a manual car's gears? Ever?

yeah i feel like it wanted to die when idling at times. fuck.

During driving, or do you mean when do they show signs of needing to be replaced or repaired?

Fuck man. I remember on my old E46 that mother fucker was $200 for the part and then I attempted it and the clearances were too fucking tight and reverse threaded fan...couldn't do it. Had to take it to the shop for labor. RIP.

The latter. I don't even know the signs. Granted, my car only has 12,000 miles but I'd like to know in the future. And then since I'm still learning manual sometimes I fuck it up and don't give it enough gas and it chops the first gear gear's for a second or two before catching.

2000 ford focus should be cheap(ish). RIP savings

The synchros and then the dog teeth are what go out first, long before gears do. Signs that synchro and dog teeth are gone, are grinding or refusing to go in gear, and not staying in gear/ popping out

When the actual gears go its almost immediately catastrophic to the whole transmission and with very little warning, but usually wear that induces that is caught when a trans is rebuilt (because of aforementioned synchros and dog teeth..

Most manuals won't show signs of major internal wear until 120,000+

Hi. Im about to be a pizza delivery driver for dominoes. I live in a college town so i should see fast business, and tips. Wear and tear on my car isnt an issue, im pretty handy with replacing parts (its a $800 civic)

So should i do it? I have a large amount of savings and will be going to school.

what does it mean when a manufacturer says a wheel is for "track use only"?

are they not suitable for road use for some reason or is it just to get around some sort of inspection process or what?

What would be a good swap for a 1995 civic hatch? Might buy one with a really good body but blown engine and trans for like less than 300$. I'm more of an ls guy myself but I've learned to like civics a lot. What could work and I'd like to keep it under 3000 $ for the engine and install but I want something upwards of 250hp.

Thinking of buying a polo gti. Any alternatives other than the fiesta rs? Just want cheap fast small/medium built in the past decade.

Thoughts on the 2017 Golf R?

>So should i do it?
fuck it yeah why not? money, lad.

To the user that recommended plastidipping my scavenged bumper.
Thanks.

I needed to unbolt the engine mounts from the frame of my truck in order to remove the oil pan. That's done, but the engine mounts don't want to go back into the holes in the frame they're supposed to. Clever use of a jack and a lever hasn't been able to get them back in place. Just how bad of an idea is it to start the truck with them disconnected, and use the inertia of the rotating assembly combined with a little bit of forward movement to get them to seat?

I need help, car refuses to start on it's own accord.

Car won't even turn over, all I get is an electrical sounding whine coming from what I can only assume is the starter. The dead battery indicator on the dash is on even though I've just replaced the battery. The car will pop start quite easily, so it's not an engine problem.

Starter motor?

It could be that your starter/starter solenoid is bad, or it could be a bad alternator that's not charging the battery while it's running. There should be a bump somewhere on your starter. Try tapping on that with a wrench for a bit and then attempting to start the car. If it starts, your starter solenoid is bad and tapping it temporarily brings it back to life. You could also pull the starter out and bench test it. I believe AutoZone does this for free, but the starter needs to be out of the vehicle. They'll also test your alternator for free to check if that's the issue.

Unfortunately there's no AutoZone for me because I'm on a U.S. military base in Germany

I'll try tapping the starter. If it was the alternator wouldn't the car have trouble idling? It idles fine

It could be that the alternator is producing juuuust enough charge to keep the engine running, but not charging the battery at the same time. I could be wrong, though. I'm just a guy on the internet.

Hey guys in trying to find a blue fiesta ST but either they're super far or have too many miles any suggestions? I'm in Austin tx.

Also are anime decals on cars uncool now? Pic related

Would the battery indicator come on if it was just the starter?

That I can't say I'm anywhere near certain on. I've seen some cars do some really fucking weird things when indicating problems. The battery light may just be an indicator that there's an issue with your starting/charging system in general, or it might be triggered specifically only when the battery is below a certain threshold. You might have some luck figuring out exactly what it indicates by searching on a model-specific forum, because I really can't say any more without knowing what I'm dealing with.

Alright thank you man, appreciate it

buy a cheap multimeter and put it on the battery after its been resting for a while. anything below around 10.5 volts and the battery is pretty much dead and needs to be charged or replaced. start the car and put the multimeter back on the battery and it should be reading 14-14.5 volts with the bare minimum being 13.5 volts to charge. if its below that (if it is it will likely be battery voltage) you know the alternator is not charging for one reason or another.

bigger/aggressive tires on back of 2wd truck?

>replaced cap rotor and wires
>Car now randomly misfires at idle and sometimes while driving
>Cap and rotor are Beck arnley, wires are NGK
>Plugs were replaced about 2 months ago and car ran like a top so it's not them
>Yes the wires are on the correct cylinders
What do?

My volvo seems to have a problem with carbon buildup. How do I go about feeding a little water into the engine to clear that up?

Find the smallest vacuum line you can find. You can use the brake booster line but personally I wouldn't use such a large line for water to prevent any dange of hydrolock. Grab a bottle of distilled water and put it where the line can reach. Make sure the engine is totally warm and to 2000-2500 and dip the line into the water about an inch below the line for just a second at a time. You may have to increase the throttle as it sucks up water to prevent stalling. What you're trying to do here is get a significant enough amount of water into the cylinders to make it hit the piston and Flash breaking off the carbon, but not so much as you start to make the fuel charge unable to ignite or Worse start filling the cylinder with water. When you're satisfied with the amount of water you put through the system rev the engine to 4 grand or so a few times and then let it idle for a minute or so before shutting it off.

Thanks for the reply. I've got a bit of 2mm line left over I believe. For someone who hasn't done this before do you think it would be easier to feed the water in from the line, or by misting it in with a spray bottle?

Why does every miata in a 100 mile radius have 200k+/- miles at time of sale? Does something happen at 200k mile range?

Opinions on these?

Seems like a really fun tuck.

found one locally for 12k. 78k miles, white. 00'

I know these have the following problems
>intercooler dirty because lack of oil separator
>5.4 gen that loves to spit sparkplugs
>shitty interior


but damn they're so cool
>that whine
>it's a truck
>fucking spaceous inside
>relatively decent handling
>burnout machine
>looks fucking cool

why shouldnt i get it?

im pretty sure miatas just turn into worthless shitboxes at 200k.

i dont think anything happens at 200k besides waterpump issues.

Avoid any Miata past 100k and "replaced engine". So, avoid all miatas.

it means they will probably shatter like rotas when you hit a pothole.

this is why you only see "Track use only" on the really lightweight wheels.

How do I know if my mechanic actually changed the oil?

Been doing some research and can't seem to find an Audi A3 2.0T S-line 2006-2010 in manual. Did it come in manual? Or were they only available on lower trims? US btw.

Remove the dipstick and wipe some oil on your finger

If its fresh oil it'll be a gold/honey colour
If its old oil it will be black and shitty looking

Thanks!

Listen, you gotta read this in order so it makes sense
>car needs painted
>needs stripped first
>want to rock bare metal for a while
>uh oh, I had to cut some rust
>put in a patch, bondo over it
>no more bare metal paint job

Now, someone suggested I do a base coat of gunmetal or some such? My question is, is that a real thing (base coat different from what color I'm shooting for), and if so, is there any paint that will mimick bare metal in the meantime, that I can use as the base coat.

Current Miata battery leaking acid from the terminals because PO chose not to vent it.

Are battery vent tubes vehicle specific or can I get a general vent tube and fit it to a new Miata battery?

I've owned it for 8 months and still don't have a name for it, despite having personalized it and had fun adventures with. What do I call it?

Zippy made sense, but was taken.

Chode

Prolly dumbest question in this thread:

Is it possible to convert a Japanese style car (steering wheel on right side) to have its steering wheel on the left so it can be legally driven in the states?

No, just shift with your left. A surprising amount of my friends have subarus like this and they do fine

I dont think its legal to drive a car with steering on the right side in the states?

i was told by the apartment manager that i can't wash my car in the apartment. so is the self serving wash place worth it? I checked one of the location and it says the average time spend there is 20min. what if I want to claybar my car? would it be fine if I spend an hour?

You can, you wouldn't notice unless you really rubber neck someone, or catch them at a stoplight. I doubt there's a law against it but look it up if it makes you feel better

Guy I bought my 9'2 jetta diesel from put a dryer hose in the car in place of an air intake.
Where can I get something that doesn't make the car look like the back of a coin laundry?

I live in Alabama and saw a RHD Nissan GTS-t on the road yesterday. Pretty sure RHD is legal to drive in most states

Buy a cheapo intake from eBay. It's just piping

I wanna get a nice dash cam that will record when I drive. Which one should I get? should it have the ability to record if it detects motion or feels motion?

I also wanna get a radar that makes a noise when cop cars are near, any suggestions?

>I also wanna get a radar that makes a noise when cop cars are near, any suggestions?
If there's no existing product, I would get a Raspberry Pi single-board computer, a cheap software designed radio (RTL-SDR) and write a small program that monitors known police frequencies, then gives an alarm.

just had a shop replace the wheel bearings for my car. the new ones seem to be more resistant to turning than (one of) the old ones. Is this normal?

I see a bunch of radars on Amazon but some range from 30 dollars to 600

They all do pretty much the same thing, report police frequencies and stuff but I wasn't sure if they were just called radars or something else

I don't know what to get, there's so many different ones I don't know what's good

Same with my Celica. I'm changing the alternator tomorrow. If you want to be sure, charge the car a bit, start it up, remove negative; if it dies, it's the alt.

i have a 3sgte distributor which i was planning to rebuild with a seal/bearing kit, but when i opened the housing, i found the magnetic pickups shattered into more than 6 separate pieces. can i replace the magnets, or should i just buy a new distributor assembly entirely?

Check spark plugs, gap, spark quality?
Check igniton timing?
Check / Replace coil if its not built into the distributor?
Is it multiple cylinder misfire or the same cylinder?

>Battery 'leaking' because its not vented
>That wiring

why are new (non-luxury) cars so ugly?

what exactly is the overdrive button for?

i've only owned manuals and regular tiptronics without it.

does it lock the torque converter for lower rpms or something? for increased mpg on highway?

or does it hang gears? when would i use it?

i currently own a golf gti
i want to buy another car for strictly fun purposes
i'm thinking of the 2017 mazda miata mx5 rf
would i be making a bad choice

i would take the normal miata because
>i like roadsters

for the same money of that heavier RF miata you could get a cayman and have a much better time, if you don't like convertibles.

the cayman is probably the best bang for buck handling sportscar out there currently.

you're forgetting MR2 series

It's basically just another gear ratio that gives you better mileage and reduces rpm's at higher speeds.

assuming he doesnt like convertibles the zzw30 would be out of the question.
its fugly too. and slow.

sw20 seems a bit too old for someone considering buying a brand new car.

please

is it a meme to buy car parts from amazon? follow up question, anybody buy convertible tops from there?

My cat made this face when she was close to passing away. Her teeth were showing

yeah convertibles aren't for me. i've never really been a fan of them. i don't mind it once in a while but i wouldn't be a top down every day kinda guy. maybe the subaru brz is a better option?

w30 is quite good looking and it has the best handling of the series and the lightest weight.
Nothing stopping you from turbo/supercharging in or performing a 2zz swap which is pretty much bolt in. These allow it to punch way above its class. Even stock in races it does extremely well cause it outhandles shit even stock. Get equal width wheels and suspension and you'll have even an easier time.
w30 is a car that rewards good driving just like the rest of the series. sure it's not as good looking as other two but jesus christ its still a head turner

toyobaru is a great goddamn car. Can't go wrong with it.

You can always get hard tops for most convertables that improve chassis rigidity.

Engine spinning while pushing it is dumb and you will get hurt. Use prybars( not screwdrivers as necessary. You can use something like a screwdriver to place through the mounts and into the bolt holes to try and help line it up as well

ThisOr ask around the guys on the base or any maintenance crews, they may have a voltmeter you could use

I'm looking to buy my first car, and need sites to find one. Criagslist does not have what I'm looking for rn.

I'm looking for an NA miata for around 2k, but I am also trying to learn about other cars I could pick and mod in the price range of 1-3k.

literally 3k civic

Opinions on C7 Z06 vs GT-R?

i hate this meme but ill bite a little bit.

if i were buying today, i would get a GTR.

not the stupid overpriced nismo pile of shit, but a normal r35.

simply because it's almost a 10 yearold design, and its bound to be discontinued soon and price will literally skyrocket while we wait for new one to come out.

Also want to make sure its rear wheel drive and a manual. There is a fox body in my area
for 1.5k, but it's the 2.4 and I'm not confident enough for an engine swap yet.

Serious question to those who own a Mazda Rotary. Do you spend a good amount of money maintaining your car or do you spend more than you though you would before owning it? I might spend dosh on an FC but I only plan on driving it half the year because hurrrr WINTER&SNOW.

GTR because while corvette only boomers like, rest of the world loves GTR.
Besides used GTR can be had for 50k and I've always liked one. Once they stop producing the prices will shoot up since it lived up to godzilla legacy and I could sell it and buy a nice NSX

Is Portland a nice place to live? Currently live in Seattle.

I hear a ticking/knocking sound coming from my engine

what do?

someone please post a pic of the 'love death suicidal intent' sticker

I didn't mean for me to be manually pushing the engine with the engine running. I meant more along the lines of getting it up to 5mph and then stopping.

Any recommendations on dash cams? No more than 100 dollars

It's still a sketchy idea, the engine is going to want to twist and get thrown Round because the mounts aren't holding it down. Use it as a last last last resort, something else should work before that

That's essentially the plan. I'm hoping to be inspired by Archimedes' ghost and find some leverage to get it where it needs to be, but it's being a stubborn cunt.

posted in the other thread but got no response:

I'm looking at purchasing a 2003 Impreza 2.5RS with 75k miles. If I buy it, what are the chances I will get fucked by the head gasket? Also, are their any signs of head gasket problems which I can check when I go to drive it?

pic related it's the car

I've never been to either but I think Portland is just as liberal and yuppie as Seattle

How important are looks when buying new car?

I need a new car, but I can't find something I want that looks good and has the equipment I want in my price range

Don't know what to do

You should swap it anyway.

same headgasket problems as any other car. overheating, loss of power, etc.

My advice honestly is to check a dedicated forum to the car that is no doubt somewhere on the internet. they most likely know more than Veeky Forums, or the problem is already solved, documented, etc.

>tfw only maintaining 15 mpg city when car is rated for 19 city
REEEEEEEEEEE

is there any reason to buy a salvage titled car even if its been body shop repaired?

I just bought a Ford Focus ST. Would it be stupid to put in a blow off valve to get that cool sound?

i think i figured out the issue, the new rotor has plastic over the brush so only a mm or 2 is uncovered at the end giving the spark less space to jump from vs the old one which the entire brush was uncovered on top. i swapped the old one back in and it has yet to backfire so far.

This is a Veeky Forums question but I'll throw it out here :

Do you think a 1uz would fit into an ae92 corolla? I just want a v8 corolla, man.

It's possible sure Probably not very nicely, but it MIGHT be possible without cutting stuff up