What's the best engine swap for an S13 and why is it an LS?

What's the best engine swap for an S13 and why is it an LS?

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ya sorry not gonna disagree with you

It weighs less than a jap straight 6 while making way more power and torque than a turbo 4. It has enough displacement to the point where forced induction is optional despite it's size.

Why can't people outside burgerland and shitpostland appreciate LS engines?

NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT

because they are boring.

2jz,rb26,1jz,rb25,rb20

Turbo versions of the above 5 motors are infinitely more fun than an ls.
(if you reply you agree with me)

>tfw you don't have monies but your shitbox is too small and needs replacement for that displacement

I disagree with you

I can agree it is objectively the best, but it just feels wrong. I have severe autism with keeping things in the brand family and keeping things period correct though, so if you don't have a problem with it, go ahead.

There's nothing boring about low end torque

>rb20
rb20s are trash

isnt he fastest time attack s13 powered by an sr20?

>There's nothing boring about low end torque
except the fact no one drives around at 2000rpm unless youre a grandma

Because it's the same shit over and over. It'll get the job done but it's just so uninspired and they sound shit compared to OHC V8s and straight sixes like the RB and JZ, or the BMW S50.

The only design advantage the LS small-block engines have over everything else is packaging. They're wonderfully compact and will fit into just about any engine bay without issue. This, paired with their availability makes them popular for swaps.

>rb20s are trash
and here it is beating a 5.7L supercharged LS with stock internals
youtu.be/TW3ZC8jyrAo

and another

youtube.com/watch?v=Ro5ThO1mqLQ

You get low end torque and high end power, how dense are you?

he wont reply

yeah if youre tasteless and talentless its the best

gotta be deaf too since it sounds awful

ford's voodoo 5.2l

I was considering RB20 swapping my Z31 to make a 200ZR homage (never got them in burgerland) but now I'm definitely going to, holy shit.

2JZ

>He thinks a tuned nissan will last

Kek holy under age bench racer

1UZ
they sound pretty good too
only 30lbs more than a shitty ka, can use the stock trans or 350z with the install kit
can make good power na or boosted
stock valvetrain good for 9k (stock cams don't make power up there though)
cheap as hell, seen them for sale with a harness for $100
majority of all the parts it'll need for service are shared with the newer 3UZ so parts support should last a long time
smooth

You keep the stock SR20 unless you're a pleb American with a shitty truck engine.

you ditch the sr since it's also crap
better than the stock truck engine in the US.
atleast the ka doesn't constantly shit itself much as an sr

1UZs make garbage power, have no aftermarket support, and need forced induction to be worthwhile.

>be retard
>blow up SR20 with eBay mods
>blame Nii-san

You guys probably shouldn't import them in the first place. Just ruin the surviving 240SXes and old Mustangs instead.

hks and tomei
>ebay
the sr's valvetrain falls apart a lot, and not even in drift situations riding the limiter, it's like rb25/26 oil pump issues. the sr is an overpriced pile of scrap in the states (1-3k even without a trans) ca18 has it's isues and lack of aftermarket but it can still make good power with just a metal headgasket and different turbo and the valvetrain won't shit itself. and ecu to trans is $300-600
also have shitty truck motor
bang limiter all day
valvetrain doesn't explode

380hp and ~450ft/lbs without headwork and stock cams is garbage power, yeah that's the NA cap, support is sslowly coming since you can get cams finally
reliable as hell, and cheap too, but yes you'll need an ecu to tune it easily, non vvti models are best to go FI on the cheap. put 7mgte injectors on it and you can boost a good amount with the stock ecu. motor and full swap kit which is trans adaptor, clutch, flywheel and one piece driveshaft and mounts will run less than 2k with the motor, you can drop the driveshaft if you keep the ka trans to save some money and it's all bolt together.
an ls does make more power. but the iron block ls family motors cost more (atleast locally) still need an expensive mounting kit that costs as much as the 1UZ kit and still needs a trans adapter and driveshaft, and custom flywheel/trans milled. or get a t56 for a few thousand since everyone wants more than 1500 for just the trans
a UZ swap is one of the cheapest non schassis original motor swaps you can do, it fits the same as the ka length wise, no sourcing an intake or accessories, can beat cheap KA-T power figures and not have to open the motor while being more reliable. it's not the best swap, but it's no where near bad either. without counting headers it's only 30lbs heavier than a ka, easier and cheaper than a vh swap too
most people don't go more than 500whp, if you want to be crazy high powered just go 2jz or if you're a special snowflake play with a 1gz-fe

Yet they last longer than a stock GM that's still in warranty
youtube.com/watch?v=9OTYOG3qRQs

Really makes you think

>gets btfo
>muh reliability

meanwhile an ls blows into pieces if you drift one corner without a baffled sump

Powerstroke 6.0

youtube.com/watch?v=6WALWQ59o7w

do it breh, the people that hang shit on rb20s have never driven one