[ D a i l y B i k e T h r e a d ] - /dbt/

[ D a i l y B i k e T h r e a d ] - /dbt/

'90s graphics edition.

>Motorcycle Questions & Answers
>Motorcycle Routes & Meetups
>Motorcycle Gear & Accessories
>Motorcycle Friend Finder
>Motorcycle Chicken Strip Rating
>Motorcycle Adventures
>Motorcycle Pictures & Webms

/dbt/ map:
>not getting posted until you update it

Noob? Git gud
ebin webms with sound:
old thread

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/R1g5QIVMD28
youtube.com/watch?v=T-CLemWmbvw
youtube.com/watch?v=FJ8R4tYbX5w&t=30
youtu.be/eaRop_ZMwo0?t=33s
philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/6099060537.html
philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/6098827330.html
philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/6066026044.html
ebay.com.au/itm/Kawasaki-Gasket-Engine-Motor-Kit-Set-KLR-250-KL-250-1985-2005-Motorcycle-Bike-/231849638312?hash=item35fb50b9a8:g:C5UAAOSwuAVWxbbt)
ebay.com.au/itm/ALL-BALLS-26-1417-CARBURETOR-CARBY-REPAIR-KIT-KAWASAKI-KLR250-KLR-250-1987-2005-/231973416420?hash=item3602b16de4:g:Z~YAAOSw7GRZAsxF)
youtube.com/watch?v=5ovKV_0uoWo
advrider.com/index.php?forums/thumpers.15/
amazon.com/Bessel-Vessel-Difference-Screwdrivers-No-220w-3/dp/B00E55DL4I/ref=br_lf_m_usa4a76856995g8_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi
ebay.co.uk/itm/201905283359?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

First for Honda a best.

Second for Honda a best at being shit (lol)

I'm not actually opposed to this being a possibility.

>dat Monkey
>dat Super Cub
>dat Helix
>dat CB750
>dat Gold Wing

third for Honda a ok

Honda is for cucks like op and kkk

>bunch of shitbikes
Sounds like Honda alright

Even kkk isn't that cucked anymore

>squid gets his boipucci rekt by a cruiser cuck
Squids BTFO
youtu.be/R1g5QIVMD28

>under the impression that he's doing insane speeds compared to the traffic
>look at the instruments for the first time
>he's only doing 80
>only looks fast because everyone else is crawling along at 50 thanks to idiot-proof American speed limits
United States of Amerislows.

They're both squids with no lane discipline

>muh lanes!!
Get off the internet, gramps

Don't come crying to me when you get sideswiped
>B..B..But he should have seen me

Nah whenever I (rarely) ride like that I'm starting at every car to see if it looks like they're going to merge over.

And I realize if they did I'm at fault for it.

Pair o wankers giving us a bad name

Why does Nicky Hayden speak like English isn't his first language?

>speed limit 55
what is even the point in using a motor vehicle at that speed

Keep getting lost. Might be time for sat nav.

Edition GS approved.

Fatty Americans can't even climb 3 stairs or waddle more than 6 feet without getting out of breath and needing a donut break, can you imagine one mounting a bicycle, much less operate it?

But user, getting lost and exploring new places is half the fun.

Because he speaks Murican

HOLY SHIT ITS THE INFAMOUS GSER 500!

how does one ride a triple without falling asleep from the humming?

The GS500 is objectively the best beginner bike.
> mileage
It's a mid-sized 4stroke twin cylinder bike, so it drinks less than 6 liters per 100 km.
> handling
It handles nothing like a supersport, spoiling you for when you get something else. But it can also corner much better than something like a cruiser, and actually uses its entire rear tire unlike a Ninja 250.
> brakes
They are complete shit and their only redeeming feature is that they're disc brakes. This is good because the longer braking distance forces new riders to plan ahead and start braking early. No ABS means they learn to brake properly I'd they don't want to get shrekt.
> power
It sits right at the power limit for A2 bikes which is great for euros. It's torquey enough to be faster off the line than most cars you'll encounter in the city. But it also feels relatively gutless so a) it's forgiving of mistakes and b) you can ride it at the limit without putting yourself into too much danger. It reaches up to 180 km/h which is fast enough for highway riding.
> carbs
It being carbed means that if you run into problems, you can learn to fix them yourself instead of heading to the mechanic every time.
> seating position
Upright, slightly forward means it's a neutral riding position so you can figure out what you want afterwards. The seat is relatively uncomfortable making literally every other bike after it will feel like heaven on your ass.
> price and availability
Parts and the bikes themselves are cheap and plentiful. If you crash and fuck up one of your fairings it's 40 euros to replace it with original parts. Engine needs little maintenance. Beginner riders are typically not financially independent, so this is a big plus for them.
> suspension
It's a budget suspension factoring into the overall low cost of getting a GS 500. If you want better suspension it's easy to swap. Therefore it gives beginners an opportunity to learn working on suspension while keeping the cost manageable.

Could be worse, could be a lawn tractor.

youtube.com/watch?v=T-CLemWmbvw

Could be worse, it's not an i4

m8, don't try my patience.

youtube.com/watch?v=FJ8R4tYbX5w&t=30

I need those mirrors

a triple sounds like a mutilated I4 in idle and like some sort of electrical shaving tool in mid and high range.

an I4 sounds like a race car.

>tfw no Dorito engine bike

>20000 RPM

well done 4 strokes well done, however:
youtu.be/eaRop_ZMwo0?t=33s

take 20.000 RPM with one ignition per rotation ON 6 CYLINDERS!

How much do you think I could Jew these down?

1.
philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/6099060537.html
2.
philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/6098827330.html
3.
philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/6066026044.html

Thanks in advance

Is there much point in looking harder/spending more on getting the bike I want with the luggage or should I just buy the base bike and then look to add luggage on later?

Can I get away with just using soft saddlebags if I'm just commuting? It's so much cheaper than being jewed hard by GIVI.

ITT post purchase rationalisation.

It's an old piece of shit.

>saddlebags

look at mr fancy pants here

you can't carry a passenger if you do that.

>having a passenger

getting my biak tomorrow senpaitachi

My cage is an i4. Sounds boring as fuck.

Also those squids on their 600-1000cc i4s all make a boring ass noise.

your cage doesnt rev to 12.000

if I roll on the throttle very slowly while the clutch is held in the bike stalls. If I roll on the throttle fast and hard it wont stall, whats wrong with it?

carbed?

your carby's gunked

...

Learn to post MAKE, MODEL AND YEAR if you want useful help.

>All vehicles are da same and have the same systems with the same malfunctions.

It's fucking stupid. Stop doing it. You don't know why you do it.

I agree. Every i4 I've heard (except a big bang R1) sounds like shit compared to V4's and V2's. Hated my i4 while I owned it and don't miss it now that I don't.

I want to do a valve clearance check on a KLR250. It's a mid 90s model, sat for like 10 years before I got it running again.
It seems to be running fine, I'd just like to be safe.
Anyway, will I need a new gasket? And will I be fine buying one off ebay? (ebay.com.au/itm/Kawasaki-Gasket-Engine-Motor-Kit-Set-KLR-250-KL-250-1985-2005-Motorcycle-Bike-/231849638312?hash=item35fb50b9a8:g:C5UAAOSwuAVWxbbt)

While I'm at it, should I get a carb restoring kit like this? (ebay.com.au/itm/ALL-BALLS-26-1417-CARBURETOR-CARBY-REPAIR-KIT-KAWASAKI-KLR250-KLR-250-1987-2005-/231973416420?hash=item3602b16de4:g:Z~YAAOSw7GRZAsxF)

I'm pretty new to this stuff, I want to learn more about the bike by doing this stuff.

Depends on the seller. Best one to use is the Nighthawk. Either of the others is a fun collector machine. The Nighthawk will eventually become a collector machine (if you resist the urge to butcher it) and shaft drive is much less expensive and less work than fucking with chains and sprockets.

I suggest not trying to make your main ride your project.

Make all offers in cash on the spot, no assholery over the phone.

anyone here own a cbr 500r?

im scraping my pegs like a maniac but i can NEVER get my knee down, even if i push the bike to the fucking limit. it just wont touch. what the hell do i need to do?

Here's a picture of her. Seen better days for sure. Hopefully I can get it up to a more reliable state, I'd love to go out for day trips on the tails around here.

great picture

Stop caring about knee rituals and concentrate on how well you corner.

I literally rode one for 10 minutes before and scraped the pegs on every corner not leaning near as far as I do on my bike. Honda just put the pegs so damn low so you feel better about yourself or something.

Look into getting some rearsets for it

Fuck me dead

i know, and im working on it too.

its just europoor laws will prevent me from riding a sportsbike for the next year till i get my full license, so im stuck with my 48hp commuter bike

just want to know if any user made it scraping the knees instead of just the pegs, so i can stop trying like a retard

get a footpeg kit if you care so much. The bike obviously has very low footpegs on stock.

Why is life filled with so much suffering?

because you didnt renew the cover sealing and almost ruined those screws?

youtube.com/watch?v=5ovKV_0uoWo

skip to 0.30 for the sound of the apocalypse. fucking shivers every time

I've never opened it up, had the bike for barely a year and also not having driven it since October

Leak must have happened on the short ride I had today, as there is no sign of oil drip in the garage

Forgive me for being blatantly retarded but how would I go about it then? I can't say hey I'm interested in the bike, go there and say "I'll give you this much instead" can I? Is it not better to ask if his price is firm through call or text? I'd likely only have around $1400 in cash at the time

Holy Jesus! A proper request for specific advice with links indicating OP did some homework!

Gaskets should be fine. A gasket fits or it doesn't, there's little to them. Carb kit has all the necessary too. I use a lot of All Balls parts on my Harleys and like them.

Buy or download a FACTORY service manual.

Feeler guages are cheap and you'll need one to check clearances.

Change all fluids, and do a good visual inspection.

Seek brand-specific forums. ADVrider isn't brand-specific but has many smart posters.

advrider.com/index.php?forums/thumpers.15/

First rule for new mechanics is take your time. "Go slow and you'll get there quicker". Second is keep your parts in order. Clear photos help with remembering what goes where, especially wiring.

Assumption is the mother of all fuckups. When removing a part make sure you've removed all the fasteners before applying force, and THINK when doing so.

Get a JIS screwdriver like this. I have two and they are great for carb work.

amazon.com/Bessel-Vessel-Difference-Screwdrivers-No-220w-3/dp/B00E55DL4I/ref=br_lf_m_usa4a76856995g8_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi

where was your father to teach you this stuff?

Choose the highest price you want to pay, try to get him below it by pointing out everything wrong or all the work it will need (every bike has some shit wrong with it), if you can't get him below it, pay the lowest he could go as long as it's < or = to the highest price you wanted to pay.

Everybody with a brain posts stuff asking above what they want, usually 10-25%. You don't want to buy any kind of machine from somebody that's braindead enough to post their bottom dollar as asking.

Go and look the bike over. Everyone who posts on Craigslist is annoyed by "is it firm?" calls because the person usually never shows up or is otherwise a choad.

After inspecting it, then say you only have 1400 and are looking because you are hopeful the owner might take less. Your showing up with case shows you are serious.

If he says no, move on with life. Most sellers aim a few hundred high on their asking price anyway and are glad to get rid of what they are selling. People hate turning down Dead Presidents.

>Everyone who posts on Craigslist is annoyed by "is it firm?" calls because the person usually never shows up or is otherwise a choad.
this plus people will get their friend to call or text and try to jew them down as much as possible so their offer looks better.

Makes sense, I go and appraise it and then haggle. As previously stated, blatantly retarded.
It's not listed as firm so you're right about the over estimation. It's in beautiful condition so I'm curious as to why the price is low to begin with.

Stop caring about what other people think of you and enjoy urself goy

the 2nd gen sv650 looks better

Ah, awesome. Thanks for the help mate.
Another question, how important is tightening bolts to the torque specs? Should I buy a torque wrench?

does somebody have a dropbox or megalink or whatever to a pdf of proficient motocycling? would also appreciate other literature on bikes, like books on how to do maintenance and other books about driving etc.

Sometimes they look nice in photos and shit up close, or sometimes the sellers blatantly lie about the condition.

Had one guy tell me the bike just needed mirrors, and when I showed up it had a rattlecan paintjob, bunch of broken shit, and wouldn't even start.

Also make sure you take it for a ride and cycle every gear making sure it shifts smoothly and properly. Give it a handful of throttle in a low gear to make sure the clutch isn't slipping, and wiggle everything attached to a bearing for any play.

I need new boots /dbt/

currently I wear a pair of shitty "wolverine" boots I got from JC Penney. I've had them for only 3 months and the tread at the balls of my feet is already level with the ground

I use them both for riding and for work (which requires a lot of walking and standing) so they can't be garish looking AlpineStars, and I'd rather them just look like plain black work boots

But I run 3 miles in 19 min user and I eat pretty healthy.

>want to ride to publix real quick, only 3 miles away
>don't feel like putting gear on
>absolutely won't ride without gear
fuck

You'll need it for proper torque until you eventually learn "feel" which is difficult for some techs to teach but easy to learn.

An inexpensive deflecting beam torque wrench is sufficient because the primary purpose of torque wrench use on things like valve covers is TORQUE MATCHING so even pressure is applied to the gasket.

Click style wrenches are better and easy to use when you cannot see the pointer on a beam style, but most bikes don't have that problem anywhere.

You don't need to use a torque wrench on everything but when in doubt about how tight to torque a fastener, try this method I've used to train new mechanics in the Air Force for when they cannot reach a buried clamp etc:

Ensure your fastener threads are clean of any old sealant or Loctite.. Wire brush or wire toothbrush is fine. Then TORQUE TO THE MINIMUM OF THE SPECIFIED RANGE. Put your socket on your ratchet then torque ~ an eighth to a quarter turn and NOTE HOW THAT FEELS. You'll have applied proper torque (more isn't "better") and after a while you'll be able to skip the torque wrench for general fasteners.

I avoid dry threads. Get a jar of brush-on anti-seize from your auto store (good enough) or you can pop for high temp anti-seize since a jar can last a home mechanic several years. If a fastener is not Loctited (Loctite is also a corrosion barrier) then anti-seize will ensure you can remove it. A very little goes a long way.

If you've a stuck carb screw on the float bowl, you can avoid stripping the head by removing the handle from a multibit screw driver then holding the carb between your knees (carbs are soft, I avoid using a vise) and giving the pit a few firm but not absurd taps with a light to medium hammer to shock the threaded joint a bit. If that doesn't work I keep a pair of small visegrips to grab the screw head. Turn about a quarter or third of a turn to "break torque" and then remove normally.

Last tip but important. I prefer to work clean and nitrile gloves are wonderful things, especially when applying anti-seize. However you'll need barehanded feel for some jobs.

I fill a plastic pail with water and dump in some laundry or dishwashing detergent. That and rags/towels/whatever lets me avoid accumulating grease and dirt on my hands which I don't need inside my nice clean engine interior. I'm not autistic about washing, it's just efficient. (The soapy solution is BTW outstanding ant killer and percolates into the mound.)

I'm 6'6", what bikes am I too tall for?

all of them you freak of nature

Squid it you faggot go slow and pay attention no sick leans

guess i'll stick to cars.

shit.

but then people won't see the sleek masked persona I've carefully cultivated and will see me for what I truly am, a pudgy nerd who rides a shitbike whose mantits are perfectly silhouetted against a shirt at 5+ mph

Should I do it?

I need to stay on a small bike for a while, and this could go for a reasonable price, is it worth doing so?
I'd assume it'll need a rebuild fairly shortly and I'm not that knowledgeable with carrying out work myself yet but I'd be willing to learn.

ebay.co.uk/itm/201905283359?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I've never rode before so I'll have to bring someone along that can. Thanks for the help.

>441 pounds
That's pretty heavy for a small bike

Ride naked, then people won't actually care how you look, just your courageous audacity.

lanklets, when will they learn?
being 5 9 is great, wish I wasn't uggo tho

visit Veeky Forums, go ottermode

Most.
Adventure bikes are made for you though.

>Forgetting the MC22
For shame. Never forget the good 250s

Does it matter if I use a higher DOT grade of brake fluid than specified? Am I being autistic over this?

If it's reasonable AND bongland has good parts availability for that specific model (check bongland forums etc) then it's fine to learn to work on.

I don't know how bong paperwork is done but find out before bidding. There will always be another motorcycle so don't go shopping hungry.

If in doubt its usually safe to get whatever is plentiful and recent since common is best for parts support.

3, 4 and 5.1 are compatible with each other.
5 isn't.

This, and they are versatile as fuck.

Use the SPECIFIED

You guys are hurting my head

>5'9
Prince of manlets, bow before your 5'11 king

doh.

Use SPECIFIED NUMBER brake fluid, higher is not "better", it's DIFFERENT.

Do not mix DOT 5 with other fluids.

If it specifies 4, you can use 5.1 no problem.
As long as you're not using 3,4 or 5.1 in a 5 system and the otherway round.

Lets say by chance I've used 5 in a 4 system in the past. How bad is that?

I dont own that bike anymore but I'm curious if I fucked it

Stop asking stupid questions here and the pain will stop.

Fucks up the seals, causing the brakes to fail.