So I cut polished and waxed my car recently, it looked excellent in my opinion

So I cut polished and waxed my car recently, it looked excellent in my opinion

But after only a month the hood appears to be oxidizing again, not just dirty

What do I do? Is this normal?

Original before/after, its currently around 1/3 of the way back to the before

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yeah its probably normal

you should clay your car and wax it again. that'll remove the contamination and give it another layer.

You just got to repolish it every month, thats the thing m8o

you should have paid someone to do it right lmao

congrats on fucking your shit up

Might have gone though the clear coat user.

The paint is much softer and reacts to the elements differently than clear coat. As soon as the wax wears away, it becomes apparent

don't clay unless you absolutely need to, that's just going to remove the clear coat from your car

He just did it, he shouldn't be claying for months unless he's driving through shit that gets caked to his bumper

I would just polish and wax again, no need to cut since it was done recently

Ill try this
Fuck my shit up senpai

Is your car a Subaru by any chance? I had the exact same thing happen to mine and the paint is notoriously shitty on them so I've resigned myself to an eventual respray.

>tfw with every rock flung you way a bit of your paint is gone

I like my Subaru, but goddamn, it will never be clean.

Nope

Ditto. Goddamned near impossible to keep one decent

For being sold as THE car for outdoor living they fail pretty fucking hard at the "not being ruined by the elements" part between the paint you can scrape off with a fingernail and the propensity to rust.

Well then we can only commiserate to a very minor extent over our hoods being in poor condition.

had a red commodore a few years back. will never own a red car again. The red fades badly here mate...

From the thumbnail I thought this was a screeching pepe image.
Sorry I can't give a helpful tip. I'm not a detailfag but I admire those with the devotion to keep up their cars.

>So I cut polished and waxed my car recently
What stops paint from oxidizing and falling off is the clear coat. When you cut or polish, that removes some of the clear coat. If you have swirl marks, just use a good wax to cover the swirl marks.

Do not keep on polishing or cutting. You'll keep on grinding away your clear coat and paint. The fully synthetic waxes are good. Try either the Turtle Wax ICE liquid wax or the megiuars ultimate wax.

Had one in the same colour, the clear coat is fucking woeful man, only hope is a respray or wait a year for all the clear to peal

No idea on the total damage done but you're looking at a repaint m8.

No polish or wax will stop a basecoat from fading. So just stop.

Start looking for another red panel, which chances are will never be a spot on match, save $$ for a respray and blend or get some paint matched in a rattlecan, some sand paper and some 2k clear in a spray can and try a budget repair.

Fuck me up senpai

Hopefully Le Pen pays off

Why does fa m correct to sempai now?

my scion tc looked exactly like this on the trunk where the clear coat baked away

Depending on how deep the paint has oxidized, then claying won't remove it. He'll either have to compound or polish to get it out. (depending on how bad it is)
While you were polishing the hood initially was your pad turning the color of the paint? If so you definitely went through the clear coat and you'll need a respray. (If this is the case I wouldn't do anything more to the paint; take it to a professional bodyshop)

If the pad didn't turn the color of your paint then the speculation I'd make is you did not seal your paint properly and it literally just oxidized as it would from the factory. You simply noticed it because you put the paint back to decent condition. (as you said it was going back to looking how it was before) and if what said is true then it seems like your clear coat is prone to doing that. I'm also going to assume you're an aussie and that your ute sits outside a lot so that's why the sun would beat down on it.

Just make sure to seal your paint with something that protects against UVA-UVB. By seal I don't mean wax, you should buy a paint sealant like Jetseal or similar. After you seal it the sealant will last for ~12 months, but you should still wax it every couple weeks or so.

>So I cut polished and waxed my car recently, it looked excellent in my opinion

It would be a shame if all this time you had been maintaining your car's paint (pigment basecoat + clear coat) by polishing it and following that with a wax. Too many people can give incorrect casual advice by using the word "polish" as a synonym for wax.

Strictly speaking, polishes have mild cutting action. Certainly a lot less cutting action than materials directly advertised for cutting. But polishing should not be a regular or frequent thing done to your paint. Each time you polish, you make the clear coat a little bit thinner. Eventually, the clear coat becomes too thin and it can start to peel because it does need a minimum thickness to maintain its physical integrity. When thinner, it also provides less UV protection to the paint.

For damaged paint, it normally is an expensive stripping and then repaint. But that's excessive for most people. As others said, the stopgap method is to seal the paint, let that cure, and then follow with a durable wax.

your hood will soon become this

underated kek

>From the thumbnail I thought this was a screeching pepe image.
This

So what should I do right now to stop it continuing? And how long will that last, P plan to have the car for around a year

Didn't realize /pol/ was so Veeky Forums.

As others have said, sealant first. It has the stronger grip on the paint than the full synthetic waxes, so it will reduce oxidation as well as give some physical defense to the surface. You let the sealant cure. A day or so. You can then dust off the car with a static dust brush, then lightly use detailer to remove the remaining dust and atmospheric grime. Then apply synthetic wax. It sticks better than carnauba wax.

>I'm using the car for around a year
I pity the poor sucker who buys the car from you. But if sealed and waxed, the paint can still have a lot of life in it. But you have to keep it waxed.

Before applying sealant, be sure all the previous wax is removed. You want the sealant to grip onto paint.

Also another thing
There is a pretty new auto car wash near me, I know the stories on swirl marks but if I go with the most expensive to get a full wax will it still be garbage and just fuck my paint up?

It's still bashing your car up with its bad bristles before dousing your car with questionable wax.

Yeah thats true, this is the first one ive seen that appears to use microfibers and not bristles so I was curious

But yeah if I were the owner Id put cheap wax in I guess

Alright Ill do exactly this
Thanks lad

The car wash wax is still a water-based wax that goes on very thinly. It's main purpose is to give you a shine. What you want is a thicker petro-chemical based wax put on by hand and then rubbed off.

And when you wax it by hand, there is no need to buy the wax job from the automatic car wash place. Your waxing is going to replace it. The waxes that last the longest are the full synthetic waxes. Two solid choices are the Meguiar's Ultimate and the Turtle Wax ICE. Meguiar's detailer spray is not very compatible with the synthetic, but Turtle Wax seems to have done its research as the ICE Detailer spray is compatible with the ICE wax. Turtle Wax ICE also has a sealant in that family of synthetic waxes.

The synthetic waxes are less tedious to remove than the carnauba ones.

None of the car washes here use bristles. Everything is microfiber strips and there is a huge amount of foamy liquid drooling off of all of them. So there is no scratching as there is plenty of lubrication. More lubrication than if you were at home with buckets.

just polish it again. It looks like the clearcoat has reached the end of its life where it will start deteriorating.
Just get some wax and wax it until you see the color of your car on the appliant. Then clay it to seal the wax and apply polish to glass to protect it from rain

There is a reason why detailers go through tonnes of cloths during cleaning and waxing, particularly with different areas of the car.

You wont ever see anyone worth their salt clean a hood with the same rag off their wheels, even if they wash it before reusing.

So far, years of Brown Bear car washes haven't scratched any of my cars. When I get home, I shine bright LED work lights at an angle to look for straight line scratches and there are none. All I ever see are the circular swirl marks the dealer puts into the paint as part of their detailing process for new cars. It sucks. I wish dealers would stop prepping cars and just give it to me dirty. I'll clean and wax it without the circular swirl marks.

Is this what they call stance?

>losing 2k over a meme

>losing 2k over a meme
Nah. Sell the car after using it another year. Like new paint. I know what I got.

>But after only a month the hood appears to be oxidizing again, not just dirty
Clear coat doesn't do that, but the pigment coat under the clear coat will do that. A cloudy look on a car can also be the result of chemical rain from rain that falls through smog or other industrial atmospheric pollutants.


>Is this normal?
Obviously not.

>I would just polish and wax again
Please carefully read all sealant and wax labels BEFORE you buy. Sealant and "wax" products do not remove oxidation, so that oxidation has to be removed first. Otherwise, you are just sealing or waxing over the oxidation.

If you use a polish to remove the oxidation, you'll have to re-wash the car to remove any of the waxes and residues from the polish. You can then apply sealant.

All the trouble occurred because the car's paint didn't get cared for properly with the correct products. Using cutting and polishing regularly means you lose your clear coat. Visiting a detailer regularly to "correct" the paint means they use polish and orbital polisher tool to remove clear coat. This illustrates why doing "more" is not always better if you choose the wrong thing to do at the wrong time. Terms that typically mean grinding off some clear coat: cut, polish, remove oxidation, paint correction, non-abrasive polish, and clear coat repair. That's why non-abrasive toothpaste (hydrated silica) is used by cheapskates to polish out fine scratches in glass by making the glass thinner at that spot until the scratches or tiny chips are gone.

>here is a pretty new auto car wash near me,
It doesn't matter if new or not if the owners or local government are jews about water usage. First, all bristle brush places are ruled out. Bristles scratch due to their mechanics on how they contact the surface without much lubrication at speed.

Fabric strip brushes are good provided there is enough foaming suds coming out of the integral outlets on the same arm as the brush. The liquid comes out from the center and flows along the fabric, thus both cleaning and providing lubrication that prevents scratches. With a good flow, in my opinion, it has LESS chance of scratching than the typical MF and bucket approach at home.

However, car washes can be adjusted to use less resources in order to generate more profit. If the owners are proud of their service, they set a high bypass for water and also increase the flow rate of foam to the brushes.

>I know the stories on swirl marks
Circular swirl marks do not come from the car wash. They come from the dealer detailing prep when the car is new. This is typically done with orbital polishers in non-filtered open air full of atmospheric dust. All my cars have had dealer prep despite my asking NOT to do it and give the car to me dirty and unwaxed. The next time, I am going to have it written in the contract that I will pay for prep, but require it not be performed. The dealer wants their profit but I want no more circular scratches.

>but if I go with the most expensive to get a full wax will it still be garbage and just fuck my paint up?
You are going to remove that wax when you re-wax anyways. And you don't want that wax on there when you apply sealant. The sealant should be applied to as pristine a paint coat as reasonably possible. No oxidation or residues. Depending on the residue type, sealant will either seal it on or stick to the residue and fall off thus leaving a gap in protection.

walmart.com/ip/Ice-Shine-Lock-Sealant/44621992

>I plan to have the car for around a year
If you're going to get rid of the car in just a year, then does it matter?

Thats what you get for having a modern red car my man, they took the lead out and now it's weak as piss. Holden's Sting Red is especially gutless.

that's some fuckin' ludicris oni camber bro

>they took the lead out and now it's weak as piss.
Lead is an efficient and cheap processing agent in paints and pigments. It's why the chinese still use a lot of lead in many products especially if they are cutting corners on export products. The items submitted for product inspection would be the unleaded ones, but later on, the product would be changed over to use lead.

>this is the first one ive seen that appears to use microfibers and not bristles so I was curious
Yikes, car washes here went to fabrics decades ago because they were much better for car paint than bristles. They cost more, but the car wash owners did that and even kept the same prices.

>not bristles
Only now in 2017 are your car washes abandoning bristles and going to the more expensive fabric strips? How chinese (jew) can these car washes get that they stuck to cheap chinese brushes all this time.

>What do I do? Is this normal?
OP, what have you decided to do?

Comments like that are what makes OPs in various threads abandon them. Then further answers by people get wasted since the OP in those threads never read them.

>f I go with the most expensive to get a full wax will it still be garbage
I just experimented after lunch with an automated car wash with premium wax. The car looks very shiny (not as shiny as with my hand job wax though). Running the tips of clean freshly washed fingers across the surface, it feels slick as if there is a wax coat there. If I buff once with my clean microfiber cloth (the same ones I use with a hand job wax), the surface now feels sticky to my fingers. It's the same sticky feeling of bare clear coat.

So my evaluation of car wash wax is that it has no durability. It's purpose is for looks and not protection. But that stands to reason based on how it is applied in a water spray over all parts of the car including windows and rubber wipers. If it had any durability to stick, it would gum things up since what follows is a air blow to push the water off the car.

Ive been working all week and havent had time. But im going with this and hope its right

There aren't many other options when the clear coat is gone and pigment is exposed all over the car. If it is just the hood, then people say to repaint it. But to do that right, it is expensive. Or you get it the Maaco way which layers on more paint plus a clear coat. But all that thickness gives the car that "maaco look" when you are close up looking at it.

>So I cut polished and waxed my car recently, it looked excellent in my opinion

Cutting should not be done unless there is a chemical burn or removal of paint in a local area is necessary prior to a repaint plus feathering. A lot of bodyshops here don't waste time so they skip cutting and just mask off the area and use a sandblaster. Rawwrrr, time is money.

Polish is seldom used except by mistake. Polishes abrasively remove clear coat when used. Detailers use it to correct paint problems such as swirl marks and scratches. They correct the problem by polishing the clear coat down to the level of the scratch, thus making most scratches disappear. Of course, your clear coat is thinner by that much which is in its own way bad. Some detailers have a heavy touch and might remove so much clear coat that just one more polish might remove your clear coat from various parts of the car. The detailer might even have removed the clear coat from high points and edges.

In my opinion, you should generally skip paint correction and use wax to cover up the swirl marks and scratches. Cutting removes clear coat. Polish removes clear coat. Regular use of these two methods results in missing clear coat and oxidized paint due to lack of clear coat.

>tfw factory single stage paint

Just

Nice enough to fool the next buyer. Remove oxidation from OP's red paint with a buffing tool and polish, apply sealant, and wax it. The sealant will preserve enough of the shine after the buyer washes the car, so it won't look too obvious there is no clear coat.

You're retarded. Stop posting.
A clear coat is 1,000's of cuts tall.

Its always the red paint too.

My car is literally faded pinkish red.

Subarus are just Japanese shitboxes with weird engines and awd. It would lit3rally be a Corolla without those 2 things.

>But im going with this and hope its right
It's basically the same advice as in other past Veeky Forums threads where someone needed repaint, but didn't want to repaint due to cost effectiveness. The only workaround at that point is forced on you. If you won't respray, then you have to remove existing oxidation then seal what you got or have the oxidation get worse. Sealant is not wax and doesn't offer any sacrificial surface protection that wax does. So on top of the sealant, you use wax.

>Ive been working all week and havent had time.
Hmm, working, so the car is busy and can't be taken out of service for sealant curing. So, that means after you apply sealant, you'll be driving the car. Hopefully it is not raining. After you've been driving the car for a day or two after sealing, you'll dust it off with a static dust brush. Then you'll very lightly without using hard rubbing, clean the surface of the remaining sticky atmospheric grime (greases, oils, smog) using a detailer spray. You'll then follow with the wax job.

That depends on the car, the pad and the compound really. From the factory most cars come with one layer of clear coat these days.

>But im going with this and hope its right
What brand of sealant are you using? Turtle Wax ICE sealant?

What brand and type of wax are you using?

Even if your car had a 1000 cut clear coat, most people would estimate incorrectly and burn off 2 to 3 worth. And car surfaces have high points and those will burn right to the paint immediately.

This
My car has 2 sharp ridges along the hood that are just asking for a rookie detailer to butn through

OP here
I think its respray time :(

you could try one of those tutle wax color specific cuts before you seal and polish again

anyone got any input?

weight reduction bro

Since OP already has a polish, he doesn't need to buy anything new for cutting. He can just polish the oxidation off from the previous month before he seals.

Rip you
Cut again but lightly, then take time sealing and waxing

>From the factory most cars come with one layer of clear coat these days.
I wonder if some car companies have thicker clear coats than other companies.

apparently alfa romeo have a ridiculously thick clear coat from a Giulia that my detailing mate measured

>Its always the red paint too.
It's just that red shows fading easily.

>My car has 2 sharp ridges along the hood that are just asking for a rookie detailer to burn through
Almost any detailer would burn through since they are using a power tool. They would mask off the high spots and problem areas.

>they took the lead out and now it's weak as piss.
Go to AliExpress and buy some chinese paints with lead in them. You'll have to assume all the ones that brag about non-fading from UV are leaded paints. Can't say they have quality control though.

Fuck that, I'm not spraying with lead paint.

Don't you want your car to outlast you?

Not OP, but if I were him, I would want a wax that is easy to apply AND easy to remove AND doesn't leave white residue if I happen to miss a spot. Easy to apply means I can swipe some of it on the trim or plastics but it won't leave white residue on them.

Easy to use and remove are important since I'd be re-waxing frequently. In between washes followed by wax, I'd use the detailer spray. In between situations that need a detailer spray, I'd use a static dust brush.

The fully synthetic waxes like Meguiars Ultimate and Turtlewax Ice are easy to use. Even if you slop them around on trim, windows, or black plastic, it wipes off without leaving white residue when the solvents evaporate. So that makes them easy to use and remove. You can always look for a haze after it dries because there's no embarassing white powder from carnauba wax.

welcome to Veeky Forums, where comments are toxic and people are anonymous

>I'm not spraying with lead paint.
At least it's not as harmful as homeowners who used leaded paint. Lead was banned long ago. Rain running off the house would pollute the ground water. It also pollutes the home owner's vegetable garden and the people living there would consume vegetables that had trace amounts of lead.

I waxed my car and got a whole bunch on the trim pieces. Some of the trim seems like it's almost cloth like. It's on the door of my NA miata where the window meets the door. Any clues as to how I would remove this wax?

>Any clues as to how I would remove this wax?
Depends on the type of wax such as synthetic wax or carnauba wax.

If it has not solidified into a white mess, you can suck it off with the plush side of microfiber by dabbing at it (don't rub it in). Then follow up by short strokes toward the open side of the seal trim.

If the solvents have dried and it is now a white powder, that means it is carnauba wax. Use a soft toothbrush and very gently with short strokes brush it towards the open side of the trim while gently blowing on it. All the white should come out pretty fast as long as it is dry and not still tacky from solvent. If still tacky, use microfiber to pull it off.

>Fuck that
They're pretty lax over there with "accidental" violations of safety laws. The chinese have a problem with their cheap metals being contaminated by other metals such as lead. So their stainless steel might even have some lead content. That can be a problem when that cheap stainless steel is used to make thermos flasks or metal liquid containers. It's too bad lead testing kits aren't cheaper.

>I waxed my car and got a whole bunch on the trim pieces.
Not a problem if you use one of the synthetic waxes like meguiars ultimate or turtle wax ice. They don't turn powdery white when the solvents evaporate.

>But after only a month the hood appears to be oxidizing again, not just dirty
OP, have you worked on the problem? How is it now?

>Some of the trim seems like it's almost cloth like
The furry trim is meant to add another seal level to the doors to block weather and sound. Since the door approaches at an angle in that location where that seal is, that means the door surface has a slight lateral movement. So a rubber seal is not appropriate there. The furry surface allows the door surface to have that little bit of lateral movement as it slides on the fur.

Since most cars have this type of fur, it can be said that car owners are furry fans even if they don't realize it.

Use the short nap side of a microfiber cloth to remove it if still wet. Wipe in one direction towards the open end of trim pieces. Don't use circular motion on the cloth-like trim since you want to remove it rather than spread it around.

If it is completely dried out and turned white, as the other post said, a soft toothbrush can remove from the cloth-like trim. In case you described it wrongly and meant interior clothlike trim, use soft microfiber on the interior trim. As much as reasonable, stroke in one direction because you want to pull it out instead of working it in (circular motions).

Carnauba wax-based products are old school. The synthetic wax products are better in my opinion and they last longer. There is still one good use for carnauba wax products such as meguiars gold class wax and that is to create a "deep looking" shine on a metallic fleck surface. The bigger the flecks, the more it benefits from a deep look.

>repolish it every month
That would wear down the clear coat of any car. Unless there are scratches too deep to be fixed by wax, use wax to hide both swirl marks and scratches. And from a distance, the shine will also hide physically visible scratches too.

That might be MrCummy's type of car!

>you should have paid someone to do it right
Paying a detailer shop only means they will polish (cut) your paint more in a process they call "paint correction". Since detailer shops don't keep track of each other, you could inadvertently get a bunch of paint corrections even for a new car and thus lose its clear coat by going to detailer shops for repeated polishing or paint correction.

OP, Show us the shine from your new wax job.

Remember to wax the car and not your knob!

>What do I do?
Hope someone hits your car and make them pay for repaint.

>Don't you want your car to outlast you?
If it is not being sold for a profit, then the optimum situation is for the car's lifespan to expire the day after you stop using it. Any extra durability of lifespan represents unused value. If extra expense was used to obtain that unused durability, then that is wasted expense.

A thin strip of masking tape for the high points would shield it from being polished through. There are specialty rolls of such 1/4 inch wide tape. While polishing or waxing with those orbital power tools is easy, polishing should only be done by those who have developed some experience over time using them to wax. Otherwise, it will be too easy to over polish many locations on the car. The rate of polishing changes with different conditions of the polishing pad and the user needs to understand that.

>OP, Show us the shine from your new wax job.
yes

I'm imagining some jew meticulously caring for (or not) his possessions so they all shit the bed the same day he dies. In his 90's his car will be 90% rot, smoking from every seal, wheels wobbling, broken windows. At his funeral the frame finally gives out and the car breaks in half.

>But after only a month the hood appears to be oxidizing again
Clear coat doesn't oxidize like that. But base coat (the pigment) does.

Here
Ive been waxing over the not yet again cut paint
Been working 12hours a day most days and have a lot of shit to take care of so I havent had a chance to actually cut

That's one way to buy time before you can polish off the oxidation.