My truck's paint is falling off. Im a poorfag, but I need to repaint it

My truck's paint is falling off. Im a poorfag, but I need to repaint it.

How do I do / get a decent paintjob without spending much cash?

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Your only cheap option is taking a community college class and doing it yourself.

Detach the part you're painting if possible, or cover up whatever you're not painting as well as you can

If you're painting it in the same/roughly same color: 240 grit the entire thing until the paint is matted down. If the primer has also started to peal then you should grind/clean it down to the bare metal

If bare metal; primer (1 light coat, 1 heavy coat), paint (1 light coat, 2-3 heavy coats), and then clear coat (1 light coat with a heavy coat not long after)

If painting ontop of old paint/primer: make sure its properly matted down, then base paint (1 light coat, 2-3 heavy coat), and the same for clear coat as above

You can do this with rattlecans, sand paper on a wooden brick and a place without wind and not too much dust

It won't look professional and it will probably turn out a bit shit if you haven't done it before, but with enough time and being careful it can look passable

If you're gonna put this much work into prep don't waste your time with rattle cans, just buy real paint.
A gallon of polyurethane 2k single stage paint is like 100 bucks and will last 10-20 years, the rattle can paint will be oxidizing within 5-6 months.
Be safe with the urethane shit tho, respirator etc

Furfag makes valid points

Rattlecans are the simplest and cheapest, but if you buy a used/Harbor Freight gun and a used compressor, and buy proper paint & thinner its not all that much more expensive, and the result will get a lot better

2K (two-component) paint is a lot tougher and is what one would recommend for good, lasting paint, but it is usually more expensive. It is however very important to use 2K paint on the panel or whatever might come in contact with fuel, as non-2K paint fucking HATES fuel and will get fucked by it

What's my best option for this without breaking the bank?

Don't cheap out on it if you want a long lasting job moron

Your picture is an example of what happens when you get a cheapo Maaco job. No prep, no flex agent on urethane, lowest quality paint. There's no magic solution unless you put a lot of time into learning. Even doing 100% of the work I'll end up spending about $1k in consumables on the paint job I'm about to put on my car. Every time you try to cheap out on something, masking tape, reducer, panel prep, it's NEVER worth it. Cheap paints spray so thin that you end up spending almost as much anyway by the time you are done, and risk tons of extra work if something doesn't lay down right.

>buy compressor and paint equipment from HF in cash
>buy chinese car paint (not really expensive at all)
>drive somewhere with privacy and sunshine
>spray some paint shit on test objects like wood. its really not hard. you wont dd some perfect 10k paint job but it will still look great, just dont make paint run
>return paint shit back at HF. create your own defect if you have too
>repeat if you need to paint car again

What truck and year? Just plastidip it for 100 if it's just a work truck. Respray over scratches as needed.

>fixing your shitbox

>ricing

is prezo literally the dumbest person on outo

>without spending much cash


Everyone is assuming the truck is worthy of a "good" paint job. If it's not a classic or a newer truck, just take that shit down to earl scheib or maaco.

My uncle owned and worked in a bodyshop for years and I've talked to him about automotive painting rather extensively as well as sprayed my own car in a carport wrapped in plastic dropcloths. I can write a huge essay on painting your car yourself if you're interested.

The consumables for a good paint job will run you $500 - $700 or so, as a beginner a $70 china made HVLP gun will work just fine, and a decent used compressor that can keep up would be $200-$300 on Craigslist but you might be able to borrow one. This paint job can be as bad as a $200 Maaco job or as good as a $10k professional job depending on your prep work and how much time you're willing to put in. You won't get a mirror finish straight from the gun but it's really hard to fuck up so bad you can't make it near perfect with wetsanding and polishing.

like I said, if anyone is interested, I'm happy to type it up.

>I'm happy to type it up
might as well, you don't have anything else to do

This is the factory paint with clear coat failure.

The roof is also like this but mostly the plastic bumpers faded.

>This is the factory paint

GM. It figures.

>How do I do / get a decent paintjob without spending much cash?

You can pay a lot for a decent job, or you can do it yourself. Prep work labor is where the cost is. Spraying is fast and easy. Detailing type prep is tedious. As others have said, get the gun and compressor to do it yourself. You can create your own paint booth by taping up dropcloths. A cheap box fan with HEPA filter duct taped to the intake side provides fresh filtered air pressurization.

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/16917830/#q16917830


There are also choices of paint available other than the typical paints used for cars. Previous archived threads are informative and have links to other forums with more details and pictures. For certain colors such as red or black, valspar tractor paint with added paint hardener looks good on cars. Metallic additive can be added to the paint as mentioned by at least one poster who mentioned the brand. Search for tractor paint in the 4plebs site.

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/16085766/#q16087076

>not using spark safe fans
rip

What's going on in that picture?

Removing mold.

rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

3 years of little care and it was still good.

>if anyone is interested, I'm happy to type it up.
I am interested especially in your method of creating a pressurized filtered air paint booth from drop cloths. I'm of the opinion that protecting the paint from atmospheric dust and dirt is important.

Cant beat some acrylic enamel paint for the cheap and decently looking/lasting fleet style paint job.

Get some good primer, rattle can everything, buff to shine. If it fades you can rebuff and rewax, if you burn through the paint you can just respray a spot. Dont pick deep dark colors that look like they will fade super easily and you're set. Wax every so often.

Rattle can primer works as well as normal primer?

>if anyone is interested, I'm happy to type it up.
Yes, please post it. I am quite interested in reading it. Painting and the set up for it has been intimidating due to lack of knowledge. I don't want to pay for technical college classes to learn how to do it at home though. That seems too overboard.

thanks

Depends, there are many types of primer that come in a can. You will never get the same adhesion from a rattle can paint that you can from an activated one. Look into Eastwood or SEM primers that can be used as a sealer. Keep in mind it's going to be $15-20 a can, it's much cheaper to buy real primer and shoot it from a gun if you have access to the equipment.

I'm interested in your description of the process, but the essentials are probably in various books out there. So if you know of books that are both practical and informative (not ivory tower idealistic methods using the most expensive materials and tools), then please make recommendations. That would be a better use of your time.

>sprayed my own car in a carport wrapped in plastic dropcloths.
How did you handle the ventilation, bug, and dust problems?

>ITT: mad keks telling a poorfag an 8/10 rattlecan job will never be "as good" as dropping $1k on paint and equipment
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