Do any of you goyim do mechanic work on your car? Ever relplaced a brake booster?
I have a first gen Boxster that needs a replacement brake booster. None of the mechanics around my area want to touch it because they don't know what to do. The Porsche dealership said they would do it but they want to charge $650.
I'm thinking I should just follow a YouTube video and do it myself. Doesn't look too hard.
My only concern is, do I have to bleed the brakes if I'm only replacing the brake booster and not the master cylinder?
Most cars will have enough slack in the brake lines so you can replace the booster without disconnecting the master cylinder. Perhaps you can unbolt the MC and gently push it out far enough for the clearance you need to remove the booster. Just go easy and don't crimp either brake line.
Still a good idea to replace all the fluid when doing any brake work if the fluid is more than a year or so old. There's lots of ways to get this done. Google "gravity brake bleed" "pressure brake bleed" "one-man brake bleed" "two-man brake bleed"
I usually start with a gravity bleed, then have someone pump and hold the pedal for a final bleed.
Pic related. Gravity bleed after replacing shoes, wheel cylinder and hose.
Dylan Stewart
>None of the mechanics around my area want to touch it because they don't know what to do. what the fuck, i didn't think there were any mechanics this retarded.
Benjamin Bennett
And if this is the first real work I'm doing on my car am I out of my league? I don't even have any car stands, I was planning on bleeding the brakes one wheel at a time while it was on the jack and then moving the jack to the next wheel.
Asher Cox
Dunno, maybe. I don't think a brake booster is a complex job, but maybe not a great first job.
Might be possible to bleed with the wheels on. I've done it that way before. Never worked on a Boxster. But never trust a jack. A pair of $20 Harbor Freight jack stands would be a world better.
Ian Davis
You own a Porsche 650 dollars, assuming parts and labor, on a Porsche from a stealership is wet dream cheap. Just pony up the dough and don't fuck your car up if you have no idea what you're doing. You probably need some retarded exotic tool anyways because muh german enjuneering.
Easton Davis
$650 for labor only. I bought the part online for $230. The dealership wanted to charge me $2133 for parts and labor. That means they were trying to charge me $1500 for a part I bought for $230.
Not sure if I want to take my car back to them. And I kind of want to start working on my car myself.
The only exotic tool needed is the special lug nut remover which comes with the car. Assuming I remove the wheels at all.
Aaron Perry
Don't listen to these retardeds telling you not to do it
YouTube it likeSuggests
Look how to make a bleeder bottle, it's just a peice of line into a bottle half full of brake juice that you can hang
Brakes aren't hard and will bleed them self after use if you get most of the air out
Angel Cook
I just replaced a failed booster on my volvo, and it was super easy. On a boxster, your engine is in the rear but your booster is in the front, so it should be even more accessible and simple to get to.
You do NOT have to bleed your brakes as long as you do not open the hydraulic system. The master cylinder attaches to the booster with two bolts - but this is not a liquid connection. The booster simply exerts pressure on the MC with a rod. Just unbolt the master cylinder, and you should be able to move it forward enough to clear the booster without removing the brake lines.
At this point, you just have to remove the retaining pin from your brake pedal, and unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall - on my car this was via four bolts accessed from the inside of the car. Then just replace it, bolt it up, reattached the brake pedal using the pin, and screw on the master cylinder. Done, and you have not opened the fluid system. Took me 15 minutes.
Daniel Turner
this
Asher Martin
I'm not suggesting he doesn't try to do it. I'm saying that he needs to weight time and his experience and skill set vs 650 dollars to let a dealership do it, which is hardly anything for Porsche work.
>The dealership wanted to charge me $2133 for parts and labor. Welcome to Porsche ownership. I have a used Porsche I'll sell you for dirt cheap, it only needs some minor work, total steal. >Not sure if I want to take my car back to them. And I kind of want to start working on my car myself. Then don't. If you feel comfortable doing it and want to wrench, then do it man. Worse comes to worse you can always have it taken to the dealership if you fuck up and can't do it.
Christian Sullivan
If you buy the part, will the dealer install it? I know you won't get warranty on the work done, but most mechanic shops around here do that.
William Murphy
Also fuck you stupid nigger. There is a reason why there German specialized mechanics, and even Porsche specialized ones. Many times it's not your standard shitbox, it's retarded bullshit everywhere.
Daniel Phillips
Also, I feel like it is certainly a good idea to bleed your brakes, but there is a lot you can fuck up if you haven't done any car work before, and if you are attempting to do it yourself. For your first time bleeding brakes, you really should have someone there with you. But replacing the booster is easy enough and without risk of getting air in the lines and having an unsafe brake system. My 2 cents.
Camden Cox
nice 302 faggot =)
Wyatt Ortiz
Find a euro import shop to do it.
Carson Cruz
Ty bb
Joseph Young
Porsche master cylinders suck. Here's one out of a 944S, I bet a boxsters will call you a queer.
Nicholas Hall
Bleed the brakes. It makes it easier and less messy.
Additionally, if you get air in your brake lines you're gonna have to bleed them anyway.
Grayson Cook
Post handpucci pls
David Reyes
Is that a Bertone coupe with a 75-80 240 grille and headlights?
Luis Sullivan
Yes sir. 75-80 hood as well. Pretty much the only way to make a bertone look good!
Joseph Davis
whatever you do DO NOT LET AIR INTO THE ABS, i dont know if on the boxster this can happen but just saying
Even though you're replacing the brake booster the same principle still applies when you take off the master cylinder you can use this to limit the amount of air you get in the system. Good luck and post pix
Grayson Roberts
Pretty much, the early 240 front ends are the best versions.
t. 1980 242 DL owner
Michael Morales
Couldn't do it, lads. No way I could remove the master cylinder without disconnecting the brake lines, theyre way too riggered. And I really couldn't be fucked bleeding the brakes.
I found a mechanic who said he would do it. Quoted me $220. I feel like I've let Veeky Forums down. I'll kill myself after I take my car for one last ride.
Lucas Parker
You guys are unbelievable.
>YouTube >$230 part bought online to replace a $1500 OEM >Doing brake work when you don't have proper equipment, tools or knowledge
Your braking system is to designed to protect you and the 7 billion of people on this planet. If you don't know how to do it, DON'T attempt it. If you can't afford the upkeep on a sports car, DON'T buy one.
Nicholas Ramirez
If you can't follow a thread DON'T post. The part I purchased is OEM and it's not that I can't afford the labor, I didn't want to pay excessive amounts of money for something I could probably do for free.
