Qtddtott

>ran 3 years ago
Do you have the time/money to fix the multiple problems it will have (dead battery, degraded rubber, possible animal nesting, etc.etc.)? If the answer is no, then don't do it.

That's the plan. I don't want to rice it. I just want something other than my '96 F250 which is my current dd and I'm sick of paying for gas. It's something I can buy and pay off within a few months, basically just as a boost to my credit.

I'm not a Mitsubishi fan, but yeah definitely go ahead and get it. Much better that someone grabs it rather than some kid who will undoubtedly trash it trying to be all fucking FnF

What makes you say that?

Thanks. I just wanted to make sure that it wasn't an absolute no go. I am not familiar with which kinds of cars are Veeky Forums approved and if there was something about it that I was missing that made it a shit car.

It's a little underpowered for today's standards, sitting at only 150's in HP, but then again it's a Mitsubishi so not much else is expected

Cop got me a few months ago for not using my signal when shifting lanes. Bulb was dead, judge said pay $200 and take a safety course and it wont be on my record. The papee says i have until next month to complete the terms of the deal, but i didnt notice that i had another court date on the 9th of this month. What should i do? I was planning on calling and saying i didnt notice it said i had that court date, would they just say its fine and reschedule?

>folding side mirrors
WHY ISNT THIS AN INDUSTRY STANDARD

>live in an apartment with no garage
>want a project bike/car
wat do?

Clean up the mess you call "life". Move out to nicer place

Get a storage unit, or wait till columbus day and knock down the wall and claim your neighbors home as your new garage. In honor of columbus

like most body work theres a quick chance you can leave it like that and nobody will see

>his side mirrors don't fold

>not using hand signals
you could try to call, but usually you reschedule before the date
probably you are now auto guilty and just have to pay the fine, but like I said, call and see

>Cop got me a few months ago for not using my signal when shifting lanes. Bulb was dead, judge said pay $200 and take a safety course and it wont be on my record.
? wtf. you should have replaced the bulb, shown the judge receipts and had it bumped down to a defective equipment. Were you not wearing a tie or something?

That was the reduced penalty.

Cover the hole in fiberglass resin then just spray paint the whole side skirt black

My buddy has lymphoma and someone is offering him a car he doesn't really need for really cheap
since he is good br/o/ he is giving me first crack at it
it's a 90's corolla that a trusted friend says runs well
>actually a cool guy, wouldn't do a dirty on cancer man
here's the catch:
it was a mail vehicle and it has pedals and steering on both sides
is this terrible, will it be amazing?
can it be removed easily?
is it worth more?
is this a two seated cancer-rated hoon machine?
I was going to give to sister-in-law until i heard this but now idk what to think and I really want to keep it and pull shenanigans

Where do I go to get my oxygen sensors around the cat looked at for cheap. Like have them tested for less than $30

How does one make a boring car more fun/enjoyable? I have a boring automatic corolla, and while I am not a racer, I want to enjoy car culture more, and feel apart of something I guess.

I'm replacing the front wheel bearing hubs on a 1996 chevy blazer (rwd) and the new hubs didn't come with a replacement abs sensor. Do i need to return these or can i reuse the current abs sensor?

working on them, driving them cool places and appreciating what they do good
>such empeegeess

I was told my exhaust leak and resulting lower "backpressure" could be a factor in my engine's low compression ratio. Would it be?

That's fucking hilarious, get it just for the keks man. Pick up a date in that car.

How are GM N bodies for performance and reliability? Looking at a Grand Am with the 3400 V6, I hear it has problems.

from last thread that finally died a few mins ago
>whats a good electric scooter
anything that isnt a cheap chinese piece of shit. those chinese ones have to be started and ran every day for a few mins at least, or the gas fumes build up in the carb and clog it or something. had one for a while that gradually got shittier and shittier, took me months of being pissed and occasional googling to finally find out the issue. took the carb out only to find out there wernt any heads on the bolts holding it together. didnt feel like spending even more money to fix that POS, so i just left it

just make sure its not a chinese one and youll probably be fine

Alright guys this is my car. A 2008 PT Cruiser, kind of like what said, but with a way more boring car /old person type car. How do I make people not cringe at it?

Where I work everyone's happy I'm not in my beat-up old eclipse that was in a wreck hence why I now am driving this.

did you use photoshops "content aware" feature and did it put a tree in place of your face? Also, only normies see a PT Cruiser as a normal car despite all of us holding hatred and contempt for that car. Drive what makes you happy, if you prefer the beat up eclipse over the PT, use that. If you care about how you appear at work, take the PT cruiser.

I just used brush healing spot so I didn't really care, but the Eclipse is destroyed because of a drunk driver. While not shown in that picture I'm always concerned how people will perceive me so PT is definitely an upgrade in every aspect. I just know that like myself, my car ain't gonna be pullin' any pussy so I'll deal with hat for a couple of years

Also anyone know the lifespan on PTs? Curious

Can someone please teach me to properly wash, compound, and wax a car? I need to make my family's 80s panther look clean (was in garage storage, no tarp), and they want me to do it.

I know about the 2-bucket method for washing, so I'm not completely lost there, but I'm afraid for the other two steps as I've never done it before.

I have Meguiars car wash soap, a sponge & glove mitt, several microfiber towels, Meguiars Rubbing Compound and Carnuba Car Wax. In addition I have a small buffer (no speed settings, just hit it & go) with a rough pad (think like a bath towel) and a smooth pad.

Before I even touch his panther, I want to practice on a shit heap he keeps (early 2000s chevy), so if I fuck up it'll atleast be on the shit car. BTW, I was told the panther has a single stage paint; does that mean it is more likely these chemicals & tools will burn the old paint?

Thank you

>saab
>good car
>no parts

It's so sad and so true.

Can someone link me the album with the rest of these photos?

How stupid is it to get a RHD car in the US? I'm looking at a van so it's probably even worse

thanks man, if it's not leaking anything I think I'm going to do it
>keks
i was thinking drivethrus would be fun? other ideas?
are you the van version of me?

Exactly what is wrong with a new Mitsu Lancer? I've never owned a car that's younger than I am, and I'd like to get a modern DD for once. The fact that you can get top of the line examples brand new for used car prices pulls me to them, as does the fact that you can get AWD on them really cheap.

07 P71

AC shit the bed today. It was working fine yesterday but went to turn it on today and the compressor wont kick on.

I had it charged last summer and its been working perfectly until today so Im thinking its electrical.

Swapped some relays and they seem to check out. Im thinking it might be the accumulator switch.

I dont know shit about electrical and Im wondering how to test the switch with jump wires? Do I just run a wire from the battery to the switch/connector? If so, Where on the connector?

Pic unrelated

What on Earth do you drive that your mirrors don't fold on?

where the plug plugs into the a/c compressor, just run 2 jumper wires from the battery to the compressor and if you have enough freon, it should kick right on. If it doesnt, either you're out of refrigerant and you need to find your year long pinhole leak OR like you say it's something electrical. follow the compressor wire back to whatever relay it's connected to and test the switch side while the a/c is on with your multimeter, if you're getting ~12v then the switch is fine and you just need to fix your a/c leak. It's totally possible that you just dropped below the minimum limit last night and that's why its not working.

So, on the subject of Saabs...

Just how bad is the ecotec engine? I hear all sorts of shit about the timing chain failing and the case gunking up. Is this just a preventive maintenance problem that is avoided by using good oil and changing at closer intervals? Is the engine itself just a piece of shit?

Seconding
check for refrigerant and then chase electrical gremlins

sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/6133424348.html

How does this look?

How do you call this in English?

A vise.

Thanks

let me guess it was one or 2 points?

so you wasted all that time to take a few points off your license?

You should've waited and used that option for excessive speeding.

Nutty smashler pancaker.

made a mistake, nans engine bay was coated with that liquid copper leak seal stuff and i hosed it all off
car wont start now, got crank and fuel but it just wont fire
did i get that liquid copper shit in the ignition? should i just let it dry?
i did cover the electricals with plastic bags when i hosed it but i guess water just found its way in (the coils got soaked)

God awful. One of the worst you can buy.

Do it by hand and you practically can't fuck it up. Don't fuck with the buffer until you know what you're doing.

Look for Chris fix's youtube and watch the video on properly cleaning the car. As much as he is a meme that video is very good.

ECU tune
/osg/ slaps

Probably just got something wet. Wait four hours and try again.

Is pic what you're buying, because that's an aero and it doesn't use the ecotech I4. Those things have the lp9 v6 built buy the convicts.

Whichn u gett?

Also, I forgot to mention, dont run the compressor too long without any refrigerant otherwise you'll burn it up and be out another 250$. Look for connecting pieces that have fresh grease/oil and look like they have fresh clean dirt or a lot of dirt since its been a year long leak.

How do I go about checking my refrigerant level myself?

Forgive my retardation but I just run seperate wires from both the pos and neg terminals to the outlet the clip plugs into? I always thought it was just the neg terminal. Also, how do I differentiate the pos and neg sides on the outlet?

a car

Typically, I'm just going off general ideas since i haven't even bothered to google your engine bay, the compressor will have 2 tabs. One will be black, the other could be any number of colors, usually red.

Side note, to test your refrigerant, take the cap off the high or low pressure side, whichever is easier to get to, and press the pin in for a split second, if gas comes out at a pretty high rate like a fresh can of shaving cream vs a near dead can, you're good, test the compressor. When you attach the wires from the battery to the plug on the compressor, you should hear a click as the electromagnetic clutch engages and disengages as you apply/remove electricity. If you have refrigerant and the clutch works, time to start looking at the rest of your pieces. But odds are its either no refrigerant or the clutch doesnt work.

Looking into putting a semi auto trans into my dd. How would i go about finding out which ones are compatible? I know i can google my engine name and the trans, but i doubt ill get too many good results.

Do compressor clutches typically fail on a whims notice?

Other cars Ive owned the compressor always gave signs of going out before shitting completley. Ie grinding and bearing noise

I mean if the laminate material on the coils for the clutch just gets old brittle and breaks off so the clutch shorts itself out yes, they can die on a whims notice. The starter relay for my 92 explorer just shit the bed one morning despite starting the car fine the day before. compressors and leaks are really the only two issues with a/c systems.

>2000 Grand Marquis
>48k miles/77k KMs, good condition, gold color
>$2700
Is that a fair price?

Aim for 22 but if its pristine id get it for 2700

bumping my question I'm sorry i want some help deciding from you.

It would just be the right side drive, but having both sides sounds awesome. It'd be like playing a 2 player car game or something.
I'm looking for something like pic related, I think there's another user who posts about them here sometimes

Well fuck.
I wanna see it too now....

Has anyone here successfully imported a car from Canada to the USA? It's a 1999 civic hatchback.

I need to change my differential fluids. Last time I was at the dealer they said they sold them. Is the dealer going to have their own brand? Or just some stuff I can buy anywhere else?

>inflate tires to my truck's specs
>tires look underinflated as fuck

wuts goin on

thanks user, I'll do it by hand first and check my work.

I've seen his video (How to Super Clean your car) and afterwards went to Advance Auto to get the supplies needed. The worker was confused by my request(s); she had asked why I needed all that stuff. I explained to her the video, steps taken, and results and how I wanted to replicate that for this panther. She said all that stuff wasn't needed; rather she advised me to use car wash soap, dry with microfiber towel, apply rubbing compound, then wax (also chrome polish too).

Anyway, I had another thought - should I use polishing compound too?

>why do these new-fangled steel radials look under-inflated
Welcome to the 1950's, grandpa. That's what they tend to look like, it's perfectly normal.

Installed new rotors and ceramic brake pads about a month ago. Used plenty of copper grease over all sliding surfaces. Couple days ago brakes now squeal under average braking at lower speeds. What do?

Should i get a smart car? I mostly need it to get to and from work and its like a 25 minute drive on the highway

dealer stuff will 99% be the right stuff but 99% of the time will be more expensive
if you have the money it's the way to go
but if you want to save some neetbuxxx
do some internet sleuthing and find out what type of fluid your vehicle requires
>take fluid info and compare prices at local auto parts stores for most saved buxxx

>sez he already greased the caliper pins
install shims if not factory installed
take it all apart again and use CRC disc brake quiet to change mass of pads and thus resonance
popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3092/4317748/

Do they ever have something "special"? Subaru sells specialized antifreeze, but for all I know it's some other brand but relabeled.
Can't seem to find any info on differential fluids though.

carsales.com.au/private/details/Honda-Accord-1983/SSE-AD-2088833

Would this be a worthwhile/reliable car to get?

This is in Australia, so I'll translate for your conbinience:
>1983 Honda Accord 5 Speed
>195k miles
>Equivalent to ~$2,500 USD
>Timing belt, seals/gaskets, valve timing adjustment
>New tyres
>New alternator
>New clutch

>special antifreeze
honda and GM do this too, it's stupid
the problem there is if you mix normal green coolant with other types it's bad
but if you flush the entire system you can put whatever you want in there
>"special" consumables
running into this changing my friend's BMW oil
requires yurop spec syn 5w30
special snowflake 'peen protocols
something about US oil weights being thinner
I ended up just using mobil1 0w40 to make it a non issue
info on fluid quantities and type would be in the owners manual
>for most oils you can just pay for synthetic
>which has better weight windows and wear characteristics
>and be done with it
>exceptions: old vehicles that
are not compatible with GL-5 or GL-4+5
>dem brass synchros
>some diffs can use either gear oil or ATF like dextron II
>Nissan D21 4wds come to mind
>some can only use dextron or other ATF

I have an 02 wrx and I've only used the green antifreeze from autozone mixed with water at home and I've used the rated diff oil for my rear diff. My car runs with no problems, been doing it for coming up on 2 years now.

Way too expensive for something that old, unless you're a collector of boring old Asian cars.

>be looking for a decent deal on a car for half a year now
>find one every week or so
>every single time it's either a scam, has problems, or is bought within 12 hours of posting
Fuck me for not wanting to pay $4000 for a shitty Civic or Cobalt I guess

You could spend a decent amount on a new car.

I know this feel user just don't give up and fall for the "finance a car" meme like I did

>want to get into motorcycles
>All friends and family say it's too dangerous
Are they right? Can you put enough armour and shit on that it's pretty safe?

Stripped a lug nut and put it in the stud anyway. Stud is fucked now. What can i do to replace that stud.

should i
merrjep.al/Njoftimi/Shitet/Lezhë/AUTOMJETE/Makina/Audi/A3/Audi-A3-/4242318

buy something like arp wheel studs and take the rotor to a shop to have them pressed in. just make sure your length and thread pitch is the same for your car, usually 12x1.5 for hondas and 1.25 for mitsubishi/nissan etc

how many miles is too many for a used car?

looking at a 2014 kia forte with 77k for around 7k

Are Hyundais good?

My friends Elantra just stopped working out of the blue. Something about engine codes, his engine is shot and needs to be replaced. Hes freaking out since hes only had the car for 3 years and still owes like $7500 on it. Wtf Hyundai?

how much work would be involved if i wanted to convert the rear wheels on my gen4 prelude electric driven.

my idea is have a supercapacitor bank that charges off the engine hooked to a pushbutton activator to trigger rear electric motors for on demand fun.

I'm totally ok with the electrical work but have no idea what i'd have to do to get the rear wheel mounts driveable.

I did do a flush last time. Still just used the Subaru stuff though. Thanks for the info though, user.

Thanks for the info. I'll check prices. Doubt dealership is different.