Sup Veeky Forums. I want to build a small block Chevy, preferably getting everything from Summit Racing...

Sup Veeky Forums. I want to build a small block Chevy, preferably getting everything from Summit Racing. I'm mainly concerned about part compatibility. Here's what I have:

>SUM-150100-30 SBC Block, 4.030 bore
>12558060 Vortec Heads
>B13403L03053 Crankshaft, rods, pistons, rings, wrist pins, etc.
>SK12-211-2 Cam, lifter, and timing gears/chain set
>03-0197 Intake manifold/carburetor/air cleaner set
>12495490 Rocker arm set
>Pushrods?
>MK630C-300 Gasket/rebuild kit
>PerTronix HEICOMBO1R Ignition kit
>56492-HSP Bolt kit
>Melling DG62C Oil pump drive gears
>Melling IS-55E Oil pump drive shaft
>Mr. Gasket 2015 Fuel pressure regulator
>Airtex E3630S Fuel pump
>SUM-CSUM8001 Fuel pressure gauge
>ACDelco 19310788 PCV
>SUM-161358 Harmonic damper
>SUM-G3200-K Timing cover kit
>SUM-G3205 Timing pointer

Is all of that compatible? Do I need anything else besides tools, tubing, fuel, and a battery just to get it to run (I'll take care of cooling later)?

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=lwJbv5oBGrA
gtr.co.uk/forum/136499-stock-long-block-2jz-gte-1043-whp-808-tq-gt47-80-e85.html
youtube.com/watch?v=YnS-nT6o4xA
supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?505997-What-parts-for-unstroked-2jz-800-1000hp
youtube.com/user/denmah
sloppymechanics.com
youtube.com/watch?v=Z37pLH0LCbc
youtube.com/watch?v=46u2ztqsITQ
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

buy a 2jzgte from ebay instead

You're in too deep to get an answer from Veeky Forums

Go get a running $500 engine from the scrapper or CL.

The purpose is to build an engine, not buy one. If I were to build a 2JZGTE, I'd blow $10k on it. On a SBC, everything listed plus some other parts is less than $4k shipped.

See

>If I were to build a 2JZGTE, I'd blow $10k on it
and have a 1000 hp engine

>and have a 1000 hp engine
That's not worth $10k to me.

$500 used engine + $200 ring and bearing kit = $700

So build a 4k usd 2j that makes 350?

If you're concerned with cheapness and performance start going to swap meets to build your sbc, you'll have more fun, spend less, and make friends. Plus I guarantee your build will come out stronger.

Assuming OP is American, There's no fucking way in hell you can match the hp/$ ratio of a small block. 2j's are extremely hard to find here in good condition. The "1000hp with more boost soopra" thing is a meme. Not to mention it's a long as fuck boat anchor that doesn't fit in anything.

Don't need Melling dg62c
You do need an actual pump though.

For proper pushrod figment, they have an adjustable pushrod- bolt head on with old head gasket or sacrifice a new one, adjust the fake pushrod until you get proper rocker/valve action, measure and order the corresponding length. Choosing wrong means you'll grenade the valvetrain.

I'm guessing crank/cam bearings and core plugs are in there somewhere.

Sorry I don't have time to go through the list but I've had a long day at work.

>implying small blocks can make 1000 hp with stock internals

hurr durr muh 2j, you watch too much fast and furious buddy, those aren't cheap, and once you get to 1000+hp you have to deal with a bynch of other shit

That's why I said to go with the sbc, but to build it from swap meets

:^)

youtube.com/watch?v=lwJbv5oBGrA

>4k on ebay
>can make 100hp with just some basic bolt ons, fuel and turbo upgrades

neither can a 2jz, it's accepted they get unsafe around 800 or more

>implying
gtr.co.uk/forum/136499-stock-long-block-2jz-gte-1043-whp-808-tq-gt47-80-e85.html
youtube.com/watch?v=YnS-nT6o4xA

lurk more

>basic bolt ons
>fuel and turbo upgrade
also most people doing well planned actual "builds" on 2jzs upgrade the heads, head studs, cams, and bottom end

You can get a junkyard small block to 1000hp too. Both are going to be unreliable as fuck. The only difference is one costs $5k to build and the other $20k.

>inb4 huge turbo dyno queen

Why? Just pull one already put together and go from there. Take a compression tester and make sure cylinders are within 5-10% and buy it for $200 dollarydoos or whatever your pull-it charges.

The SBC 350 came in everything there's no reason to build it from scratch unless you're running some exotic build.

Oh and why in gods name would you buy a block that's already bored over. The point of getting a new block is that it's 4.000 and you can bore it later when it wears down.

not with stock internals and basic bolt ons
you don't need to do any of that aside of new valve spings and perhaps new cams

maybe not a traditional small block but definitely a vortec or ls series engine as they have way stronger bottom ends

i'm literally looking at a well planned build somebody did to a 2jz-gte on a supra forum supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?505997-What-parts-for-unstroked-2jz-800-1000hp

for what, 15 minutes?

What? Vortec is literally a SBC with different heads and intake. 2 botl mains will do fine up to around 500hp, 4 bolts higher and splayed 4-bolts for max reliability.

So, technically a 2-bolt is best because you can get the caps splayed when you get it honed/decked.

>Mr gasket
2017 asshole

whatever is best is what is setup for a roller cam from the factory. saves money and you dont need fucking special snowflake oil.

my god i fucking hate stupid exotic ZDDP oil.

Cool, I already posted one with stock internals

>mad and in denial

not all of them the vortec engines produced from 98 and up are still made of iron but have deep skirted y blocks like the ls series which strenghten their bottom ends

cool you posted one that won't leave for nearly as long as the one i posted

Junkyard 5.3's will make 1000hp somewhat reliably on the stock bottom end. There's many examples of these. A stressed 5.3l will be more reliable than a stressed 3l, That's just basic science.

Yeah, you only need ZDDP with tappets, and you can just use Rotella T4 conventional instead of using an additive with a regular oil. It costs a bit more but nothing crazy.

OP just needs to pull an 86+ block from a Camaro or Firebird, throw some aluminum heads on it and a decent cam. Carb for money savings, but definitely needs to stay away from TPI garbage. Just having the 1-piece RMS makes it worth it.

i'm not contesting that the 4.8 5.3 and 6.0 vortecs are excellent engines i was just stating that it has an ls based 6 bolt bottom end that is integrated into the block making it much stronger than a sbc

Didn't know that about the skirts. Are they 6-bolt mains like the LS or a traditional 2/4?

6 bolt main caps on all of them 1998 and up i believe check out this guy and his colorado build for an assload of info about them youtube.com/user/denmah
sloppymechanics.com

really you guys should consider a roller cam is just better not because its got more potential, but its more reliable and trouble free. god knows oil isnt getting better.
cam is more important than the bottom end. especially for street use

Yeah I agree roller is better but the tappet in my engine is running great so unless I wipe out a lobe that's what's staying in it. It's also a 1970 block so I would have to go with dog-bones or whatever anyways.

*citation needed*

it also gives you a smoother idle

>veeate bois won't reply to this post because their veeate got cucked by a 4 cylinder honda with a blow dryer

ok then how long did the one you posted last? besides it's pointless if muh boost doesn't come on til 6000 rpm

or maybe because you were uselessly detracting from the discussion with your comical nearly /b/ tier shitposting and bait

But I want a rough idle. That's why I put in the current cam and straight pipes.

>it's pointless

how? 1000 hp 350 v8's don't have silky smooth power delivery either

i mean you'll still get the 'v8 burble' if that's what your looking for

>implying this detracts from the fact that a VEEATE got cucked by a lawnmower and a hair dryer

Depends on when where and how that 1000 comes in.

yeah but it's way sooner in the power band and 350 chebbys are an outdated meme anyway that haven't been made since 1992 unless you're one of those autists who thinks the ls and lt series are the same thing

hey now, i quite like hondas i mean they are great lightweight cars that can make awesome turbo builds to a point

youtube.com/watch?v=Z37pLH0LCbc

youtube.com/watch?v=46u2ztqsITQ

I agree.
More VEEATES getting cucked

i'm a v8 guy myself just because it's a fucklot easier to build and get more hp out of than a honda and cheaper too in my location but the muh veeatteee shilling boomers make me want a honda, b18 crx pls

The sad thing is usually the car the V8 is in weighs between 3,500-4,500 lbs and you can't just stick them in small cars (like civics) without shitloads of mods and possible dangerous modification of the unibody frame.

Hondas can weigh as much as ~2,400 lbs stock (for a civic), and as little as 1,900 with shit loads of stripping. (think of a metal box on wheels)

It's not about HP, it's about the HP to weight ratio.

yeah, i know the only light ones i can think of are s-10s which have horrid drag coefficient, foxbodies which are ugly imo and climbing in price and 60s pony cars, which boomers have a fucking grip of iron on, v8 ars can make more power to make up for it more cheaply though but that depends on location too

In my area if you want a RWD V8 with a manual transmission your only options are:
>certain utility trucks (lol)
>a myriad of mustangs (can be found for under $7k for 1999-2004)
>the odd charger or camaro
>old corvettes with body damage and interior damage
>rusted out shitheaps from the 50s/60s sitting in some boomers yard, $30k no low ballers I know what I got yada yada yada...
>two or three expensive exotic cars

At this point I'm beginning to wonder if doing an EV swap would be a cheap option for a fast car considering two forklift motors strapped together can put out ungodly amounts of torque and are much simpler to build and you can get more HP out of them with better batteries and controllers.

A local forklift dealer of mine sells motors for $400-500 though I'm positive they will need to be rebuilt (just clean them out and replace bearings, they aren't complicated)

This.

OP, just buy a car that already has a sbc in it and go from there.

>I'm mainly concerned about part compatibility
Then your best bet is to find a long-block then use that as a base.
You don't need everything right away, get it and build a bit, use that information to go with what you need next.

I'm more of a Mopar person but know Chevy, most of that shit will probably be alright.

>The sad thing is usually the car the V8 is in weighs between 3,500-4,500 lbs
Lets be honest here, most new cars today, even tiny 4 bangers are knocking on this weight anyway.

4 bolts have less material left in the block due to drilling of extra holes.
Strongest is 2 bolt with a girdle.