Advice on Subaru BRZ mods

I got my hands on a 2013 Subaru BRZ, the car came with a 3 inch Cat-back put into it (as well as minor engine components). Where should I go from here? (Performance before cosmetics please)


>inb4 slower than my moms dodge grand caravan

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You should probably ask a forum or someone who likes these cars and not Veeky Forums.


I believe a new Manifold will help with the torque dip and a turbo will make it run how it should have run to begin with.

Wheels and tires, coilovers if you plan on tracking it or hooning on backroads, cold air intake, other misc weight reduction (not sure what you could do to make it lighter other than what ive previously listed desu)

Once you have that done, look into upgrading your engine.

Cams, coilovers, and good tires

Right? I may have died inside.

Any companies I should avoid? (For tires)

I'd advise against the cold air intake meme, the intake on the 86 is pretty great to begin with unless you're gonna turbo it. Get a high flow filter for it and use the money for some good headers from JDL or something and a tune.
Just don't buy cheap chinese shit. Michelin PSS or similar on 7.5x17" wheels. 8x18" or greater will cause too much drag for the amount of torgue the car produces stock and will degrade acceleration.

Anyone here own a turbo'd BRZ? I'd like to hear about your experience.

You can always get it tuned after doing what other guys have already mentioned doing and squeeze some more horses out of it.

IIRC like 175 to the wheels.

I would say forced induction ASAP.

Otherwise if you plan on staying NA, get headers and a tune, wheels and coilovers.

I've driven a turbo BRZ, it was a blast.

Get anti-roll bars (sway bars). If you want to dorifto, get a much stiffer rear one than front.

Get a catless header.

And just because it sounds so nice, get a cheap knockoff short ram intake w/ heat shield from eBay.

Ace 4-2-1 EL header and new plugs while you're at it. Once the header is on you can tune out the torque dip

get some sticky tires, I recommend Dunlop ZII but others will swear by pilot super sports. you may want to increase wheel size but IMO that's a personal style decision

replace the stock transmission fluid it is garbage, assuming you got a manual. some people recommend changing out the diff fluid as well, I dunno if that does anything. also new brakes and pads if the ones on it are stock

the stock suspension on the car is fine but if you want to replace the bushings it'll improve responsiveness

also even if you want to stay on stock 215/45R17 get lighter rims, the stock ones are a little on the heavy side

I would like to interject that changing the wheels is very expensive for what honestly amounts to a negligible difference.

you can shave about 20 pounds with the right rims which isnt bad

but yes dieting is cheaper and more effective

OP here, Considering adding a turbo, worth it?

I was actually looking at those headers, Probably going to end up grabbing them now.

It will be used for dorifto, how much stiffer should the rear be? I don't want to go overkill.

I would get a supercharger instead. The turbo won't do anything until it spools up, and the primary problem with the car (in the eyes of the 'more power' people) is low-end torque, and an unspooled turbo won't help that problem from a stop.

That being said I left my car NA because half of the fun is keeping it in powerband

I guess that's true, however while power isn't everything at all, it is a tad weak. Would some improved engine components and a tune fix that?

>I have never been in a BRZ/FRS/GT87, so I don't know how it feels stock. Use your judgement based on how the car feels.

I'd recommend a rear bar at least 2x stiffer than the front one is. Most are "adjustable" and have several different mounting points so you can test out different stiffnesses.

I put Flyin' Miata bars on my NA8 miata in 2011 and it is basically a drift toy now. I have the front on the softest and the rear in the middle hole and it's a night & day difference from stock. It even oversteers if I brake in a sweeper going like 30 mph. This setup would be dangerous but I'm used to "vectoring" my car with throttle and haven't crashed yet despite powersliding nearly every time I drive.

Tires are important here, and I'd recommend keeping your stock ones. I put summer tires (RE-11As) for ~9k miles on my miat and powerslides were very difficult to start and maintain. I then switched back to sub-$70 all-seasons and have been having a blast ever since.

If you want neutral handling that understeers at the limit (like you'd want in a purpose-built race car) then get fat sticky tires and a stiff front bar, but I'm too fond on sliding all the way through intersections without having to rev over 4k.

Pic related - my miat in 2011 just after installing the bars.

>You should probably ask a forum or someone who likes cars and not Veeky Forums.


The exhaust manifold is the best place to start, unless you are going turbo then you get one with the kit.

If you want to stay n/a then get Openflash's tablet and header (UEL) combo for $1055 and tune for E85. You should gain 30whp for a total of about 200whp. If you want more, then get a K&N drop-in air filter and overpipe and front pipe, then retune. You won't gain much from those mods, though. After all that plus the cat-back, you may see 210whp at the most. You'll need forced induction to go beyond that.

Keep in mind that UEL headers are more effective than EL ones at getting rid of the torque dip, but EL headers tend to have more high-end horsepower.

>Where should I go from here?
To Hell!

K, will do

honestly after seeing brz punch up and fight agains 911's and bmw m3's on the track while I was riding shotgun, all you really need are nice coilovers, light wheels and sticky sticky slicks and some lightening.

i thought the car is an expensive shitbox, but this guy teached me otherwise

which coilovers?

Tires first... light wheels are nice too. Suspension modifications are ok but hard to get right and expensive. Adjustable end links are required if you want to corner balance your car. Power mods including forced induction are a complete waste of money. They won't make you faster than anything and it will cut your reliability in half. You're better off reducing your weight by removing everything in the back including the rear seats. I bought one in 2012.l had it for 3 years and sold it before the market on them tanked. The 86 community is pretty bad... nothing but ricers and hurr derr turbo faggots. Forced induction is crap on those cars.

Sell your graduation gift and get an adult car

Get a job and buy an actual car

Michelin Pilot Super Sport, stock size on stock rims is good enough. Or 225-235s on 8x18" OZ Ultraleggeras if you really must, then you can put meaty semi-slicks on the stock rims for the track.

If you track it a lot you'll want to upgrade the brakes. That's it, you're set, everything else is memes. You don't need coilovers, you don't need to lower it, you don't need """"boltons"""".

>The 86 community is pretty bad... nothing but ricers and hurr derr turbo faggots
That's because the entire car scene in your country is terrible, just look at Veeky Forums itself. Every 86 driver I know is based and friendly, not a single ricer, not a single cheap or botched turbo job. The only body kits in my country are real works of art rather than straight from NFS Underground 2. And there's not a single stanced 86 in my entire country.

>everything else is memes

100% worth it.

Have a look at this kit. Exactly the same as the greddy kit, same factory and everything.

Turbo kits are cheaper and make more power much more easily than superchargers. More bang for buck.

Exhaust "upgrades", cold air intakes, "sports" airfilters, absolute memery. Of course, with the right setup, in conjunction with forced induction and other measures, you might get noticable results, but if you had that, you wouldn't have to ask Veeky Forums. Also, saving a couple pounds with a lighter exhaust is for shaving off a couple milliseconds from your laptimes, not advantages on the street.

Fully adjustable coilovers, camber plates, bushings, still memery, the suspension setup is more than fine for street use. If anything it's still too stiff in the front, making it even stiffer and/or lower will actually be detrimental to your performance anywhere except on perfect track tarmac. Don't set up your car like a racecar unless it IS a racecar.

Someone who knows what he's doing can get positive results with these mods, no doubt, but someone who has to ask Veeky Forums what to mod first certainly won't.

As previously mentioned, sticky rubber, maybe lighter wheels, and brakes if you track it more than 3 laps at a time. Don't touch other parts until you have the knowledge and experience to figure out for yourself if YOU (not the car) need them or not.