/CCG/ - Classic Car General

/CCG/ - Classic Car General

New carpet edition.

Bring your classic and lets all get rust in our eyes together.

>Cars are considered classic at 25 years old

>Everybody has their own taste, enter if it's of age

>Post your classic, your work on it, and get advice

>Any and all discussion about classics welcome

>Rust is a bitch, and not for the faint of heart; tread lightly

>You will inevitably spend twice your budget, no exceptions

>That classic you're eyeing on Craigslist probably needs a shit ton of work

Other urls found in this thread:

charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/6167687418.html
hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1968-ford-mustang
homedepot.com/p/Citristrip-1-qt-Safer-Paint-and-Varnish-Stripping-Gel-QCG73801T/100208204
nationalcarburetors.com/
webercarbsdirect.com/100-611-p/100.611.htm
morris4x4center.com/weber-carburetor-kit-38mm-dgas-k55138.html
webercarbsdirect.com/Fuel-Pump-Regulator-s/331.htm
lceperformance.com/Weber-38-DGAS-Carburetor-Jet-Kit-Performance-p/1035006.htm
yubasutter.craigslist.org/cto/6158284034.html
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Brake fluid seems to be doing the trick. Basting it on with a paint brush throughout the day and it's starting to bubble up now

>/ccg/ tfw no gf edition

tfw no money to do swaps you mean.

should I buy a 924?

I had an idea of making a lightweight low power weekend classic with fuchs and houndstooth bucket seats

...

If you have the money to keep it running only.

looking slightly less shitty, good job.

Sold it almost a year ago...

I miss it so much :(

New carb, new carpet, new fuel lines. Needs more help, but muh budget

If anyone has any tips on ac repair or replacing front end bushings, I'm all ears

This is gorgeous
Frig off Cyrus

Gotta fix some rust on my door will I descovered by accident last night. I hope when I cut out the little 2x2 square of rust it's not all fucked inside(it will be).

Thanks.

jesus charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/6167687418.html

N I C E

>MFW im selling my cutlass for 300$ more than that pile of rust.

A basica 68 mustang costs like, 18k adjusted for inflation, and that's a brand new vehicle

And this guy thinks we'll pay over half the price of a brand new car, for one whose list of "Needs before roadworthy" sounds like a line form a comedy film?

Also, got a pic of the cutlass?

I attention whore here daily so you have definitely seen it before.
I'm having a bit of an issue though as I can only legally sell one more car this year without getting a dealer licence.

hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1968-ford-mustang

Note that their shittiest rating is still a daily driver, and not:

>"needs complete rebuild"
>"no engine trans interior"
>frame rot

lets not ever-sell it, it's a frame with wheels and a steering wheel.
You can buy a brand new frame from CJ pony parts and not have to worry about cancer.

Oh yeah, I forgot about that. Heh, the solution for someone longing for "I wish I could've checked all the options I wanted for that classic..."

This man is fucking retarded, and the reason I stay up at night hoping to one day own a mechanic shop to save classics and sell them at reasonable price points.

>and the reason I stay up at night hoping to one day own a mechanic shop to save classics and sell them at reasonable price points.
not possible.

Let a man dream, some of us still have hope for the future of classics.

hey nice to see another c3 owner on here, I just graduated from college so I'll finally be spending some time and money for some much needed tlc on mine, for starters I'll be cleaning out the interior and any rust that may be lurking, sanding and painting those paint holes in the nose, new door locks and door panels and cleaning out my carburetor, and if those don't break a grand I'll probably put in a radio and basic sound system since it had none when I bought it back in high school

oh and t-tops/weatherstripping so I can finally leave the tarp off

...

I think its within reason, also it depends on what your idea of reasonable is.

Probably something on the line with buying a new modern car, depending on how well done? Like 20 to 30k for a top restoration as if the vehicle were new. I\'m merely speculating, however.

you need to actually acquire the junked classics first.

Dreaming already. Gonna have to give up my trip.

I had a idea for classic car place that has 3 lots.
Lot A: Classics in great condition price range from 10k-15k (higher for certain rare models etc)

Lot B: Running projects, blinkers may or may not work. Interior may or may not be shit. etc 5k-10k

Lot C: Projects that don't run but have potential to be something great again.1k-4k

If you ever decide you want a 69 convertible cornet 500 you know where to find me.

nobody can afford that shit.

That would be nice, wouldn't it? Certainly easier to expect what to pay for rather than "shit to decent things for $1500 to 10k along with amazingly good ones for 60+K"

My current project.

I recently used this stuff: homedepot.com/p/Citristrip-1-qt-Safer-Paint-and-Varnish-Stripping-Gel-QCG73801T/100208204

On a mach 1 hood for my '69 fastback, it worked pretty well. You just gotta have a drill with a wire-wheel, a sander and patience.

>charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/6167687418.html
Ok, thats fucking retarded, if i was actually looking for a project that significant i'd buy it for $300

That being said, it is a fastback '68 which imo is one of the sexiest car asses.

Man I can't believe you're gonna give up that dope ass truck for a Chrysler product...

Guy apparently thinks it's still the height of the Eleanor craze where they were selling for $125K+ and any 67-68 fastback body was worth a lot.

Anyone here DD a classic car as their only vehicle? I'd like to find a decent interesting old car and wondered what the feasibility of living with a carbureted V8 day to day would be. I don't mind some wrenching.

trying my hardest to get my falcon to DD status, its going but there only so much I can do as a Classic car noob and only so many hours a research I can put in a day. Thats and I have 170 inline 6, know clue as to how the 8s acts.

It depends on the vehicle, age, wear, and level of restoration done already. A high mileage rustbucket that has only seen the cheapest bare minimum of repairs to run will be awful, but something in nice shape with fresh good quality wear items and things that commonly go bad replaced will be much better.

They were used as DDs back when they were new... why not again?

All you have to do is get it back to that point, fix the shit that needs to be fixed, tune it so its happy... I recently replaced my starter with a mini high torque one because it wouldn't start reliably on hot days. Now it does. I have another car with A/C that i'll use for sitting in traffic, but when i want to go get lunch or something, i take the mustang.

I've done it before and it's great on nice days but when the weather turns and you get yourself into some tougher situations, say pouring rain in a tight freeway construction zone in the dark, you'll find yourself appreciating how much easier new cars make that sort of thing.

I've dd'd my truck. It wasn't the best, but it's feasible.

I dd'ed them before anyone called them classics, though I prefer trucks and motorcycles.

No big deal if you do a thorough job inspecting them and performing preventive maintenance like belt, battery cables, ignition parts and hose replacement. Don't be intimidated by carbs and if in doubt install a new or remanufactured carb. They are so relatively inexpensive nowadays I gave away my large stash of Holley 4bbls and parts to my bro.

Important tip is ONLY use "fuel injection hose" to replace old rubber fuel lines. The lesser shit sold today is rapidly destroyed by ethanol in fuel and isn't high quality because fuel injection hose is the high quality alternative.

Modern fuel hose is a must. Also not letting your vehicle sit as well. I let my Ford sit for a year and the carb got pretty gunked up. Ethanol is no joke, but if you drive it regularly year round you'll have less problems

Whichever user was lecturing me about the carter BBD, you were right, I misunderstood what you were saying. I didn't realize the Weber 38 was a direct upgrade to the carter, designed to replace it. Since the /6 came with the carter I'll just use that intake mani and start searching for a 38. Anyone selling?

Pic is my parents' garage stocked with my extra tools, I use it as a workshop when I'm visiting. That's my uncle wiping down my 240

Chrysler>you

nationalcarburetors.com/

Check these guys out man, I picked up a 4bbl Quadrajet from them a few years ago that worked like an absolute fucking top.

Weber 38 isn't a direct bolt on.
You're going to need a fuel pressure regulator, 3-4 psi works best for 38's based on internet experience.

you need a kit to actually let it bolt onto a super six manifold.
webercarbsdirect.com/100-611-p/100.611.htm

I highly recommend you buy this though.
morris4x4center.com/weber-carburetor-kit-38mm-dgas-k55138.html


tuning a Weber can be a maddening experience for a newbie though, you should definitely get the Haynes manual for Weber carbs.

You will also need to fabricate the entire kickdown linkage and at the bare minimum use that Mr.Gasket throttle cable kit.

Frankly, the BBD is an absolutely fine carburetor and does it's job well.
$/hp upgrades, the dutra duals can't be beat and you will never actually take advantage of a weber 38 without a cam upgrade and a bump in compression.

thanks breh
Isn't the ethanol content less with 92 octane, which is what you should run in older motors anyway? I could be totally wrong
>the BBD is fine
lel, that's what I said yesterday, and someone said it was a piece of shit. I did read on slantsix.org that the super six mani and Carter are a direct bolt on if you only have the 1 bbl, which is what attracted me to it

I've got a bone stock Chevy 350

All stock accessories and AC, what's the cheapest way to get power?

I'd assume moving to electric accessories (fan, pump..), better flowing headers, maybe a cam and rebuild.. what else?

Np breh, I'll stand behind national carb's, my Q-jet was top fucking tier from those guys, didn't need to adjust anything once I bolted it on.

Also your trip is pretty ironic, but I'm assuming the Morris kit is complete and doesn't require anything else besides the regulator? Also, isn't a regulator a fairly simple inline part? I'll definitely buy the Haynes manual if I buy the Weber.

Last thing: from pictures it looks like the super six intake bolts directly to the exhaust manifold. If I'm using headers, it shouldn't be a problem to leave these bolts unused, right?

Cam, headers, edlebrock 1405 carb with dual plane intake, keep a manual water pump and go to electric fans, if you need the extra amperage either go with a CS series alt and the adapter to plug it into old school harnesses or an 84 or 85 iirc camaro alternator since you can find the 12si's from those up to 103 amps or something.


Of course, if you aren't doing the rebuild/cam and whatnot yourself, a crate 350 is $1500, the high performance crate 350 that makes even more power is something like $2100.

Anonymous vs. everyone who's owned a Slant Six?
Unfortunately nobody who has put a Weber 38 has referenced the jet sizes they've used so you'll also need to buy a jet kit.
I'm not sure how cost effective a super six swap is compared to what slant six articles say but it's an excellent upgrade.

Just make sure you find a Weber 38 that isn't a Chinese clone, something to keep in mind is that Weber hasn't made a carburetor since 1992, so whatever brand new shiny thing you find on ebay is a cheap clone.
>Also your trip is pretty ironic
It's what Alphonse copy/pastes when he gets btfo.

the regulator is inline, it might take a little bit of plumbing but it shouldn't be complicated.
webercarbsdirect.com/Fuel-Pump-Regulator-s/331.htm

you'll most likely need a jet kit like this
lceperformance.com/Weber-38-DGAS-Carburetor-Jet-Kit-Performance-p/1035006.htm
and the time, patience, and sanity to get it tuned just right.

>If I'm using headers, it shouldn't be a problem to leave these bolts unused, right?
Most likely, the super six manifold on the engine side is exactly the same as the 1 barrel manifold.

Also stay clear of Holley 1920s.

The Valiant is my DD and so far the only car I've ever owned, although it's a /6 and not a V8. It works fine (aside from a few mechanical problems that *I* caused...clean and grease your bearings when changing front drums!!!!)
Hmm, I see. I already had to buy an aftermarket kickdown cable (whoever put the 2v manifold in place of the 1v didn't bother) Not yet sure what I'll end up doing though.

No Money in the budget for body filler, amirite? :^)

Fucking citrustrip is a total joke.

Here's the thing, it takes SOOOo long, that your total exposure to the VOC makes it actually more harmful in the long run than using a proper remover based on Methylene Chloride

Use pic related, brush on, wait 15 minutes, keep it wet and viola... basically wipe off with green scotch brite and putty knives. wear good ass gloves and a respirator.

I scrub with a natural bristle wheel brush once its started bubbling, then the shit slides right off onto the waiting cadrboard below.

Afterwards, wipe it down with plenty of acetone, and you'll have a 99% bare metal hood, no wire wheel required.


or stop being so poorfag and geta a media blaster from harbor frieght for a couple hundred bucks

One of the Best mods you'll ever do is converting to HEI (GM style) ignition.

You'll need a mopar electronic distributor and a couple parts from NAPA. Google slant six HEI.

Throttle response, MPG, and power ( not to mention reliability) for under a hundred bucks, probably under 50 if you get from salvage yards

yes, there is no downside and it's easy af to install.

God that's beautiful don't sell please rip

How do I into wiring? I've got no clue how that shit works and it's only a matter of time before I need to fix Cletus' hack job

What are you wiring? Painless sells looms that look decent

yes, for several thousand dollars.

>Being poor
Just kidding though I had no idea. It should be known electricity isn't my strong suit

well at least one was 3 grand last time i checked.

I guess just in general. Lights, speakers, etc. I've worked on cars a decent amount but never really dicked with wires

How many of my limbs would you require knowing I have no firstborn yet?

Well. I know. Is a sweet truck, but, I've already got line on a 4x4 for $500 about an hour from me.

I took this for you, kk.

At the cruise in last night.

...

Unfortunately the photos of the interior and exterior didn't save. The interior was all modern shit and it had gay rims.

Classic Challenger is so much less fat.

Neat. These seem to be the rage right now. Down the road, one of my goals is to put p71 suspension on the front of my ferd. I'll pass on the modular though

>talked with the 65 sport sedan owner
>Had his car painted by the same guy that did mine
>His paint job looks slightly better

Now I'm mad

Also that color is on point

Only 30ish cars last night. I rode down with a buddy in his 40 Chevrolet ThriftMaster. Like going back in time riding in that car.

>carpet came in
>It's fucking awesome
Anyone else ever used Auto Custom Carpets? Just had them custom mold a carpet tub with mass backing for my MJ, $210 shipped.

I need to redo my headliner. How much do they charge?

It doesnt look like they offer headliners, but stockinteriors (guys I ordered from) offer a scrape and cover DIY kit from another source for like $40.

I'm not sure what that is, scrape and cover?

The one I have right now is like a carpet that's stiff and like cardboard, but it's warped from sitting in the sun

Try looking up your car on stockinteriors, it looks like they sometimes offer the headliner board as well. Scrape and cover kit just gives you the supplies to scrape off the old fabric and apply new fabric.

I tried jasco. Barely even got the stuff pliable. I'm letting my coworkers dad do the whole thing. He said he'll strip and paint the whole truck for 1500 which is a hell of a deal. I've killed myself enough over this truck already.

Someone want to buy this so I stop being tempted every time I go on CL?


yubasutter.craigslist.org/cto/6158284034.html

Might not be good looking

Okay I'm at a loss. How the fuck do I get this alternator bracket repaired? I went to a junk yard and by sheer luck I found an old Iron Duke on a pick up bed with a bunch of other engines. Started bolting the bracket off but one of the other engines was pushing the bracket in couldn't get it out fast enough. Then a short piece of shit mexican comes out and says all the engines are his and that he buys them bulk.

Called a bunch of welding shops but they all said they don't weld aluminum. I don't even know if it's aluminum but magnets won't stick to it. I think it's cracked all the way through but the alternator is held in place somehow. It rattles like a motherfucker tho. Should I just drive the thing like this and worry about it when something breaks? Have tried ebay and cannot find it anywhere.

Thats worth nothing due to how much this guy has dicked with it.
offer 3k

Worth it to someone who would want that type of setup, not to someone who strictly likes classics. I appreciate the work done, but wouldn't pay that much.

I met my trucks dad today.

And this little Crosley.

And this Coronet, which I looked over intently while saying "god damnit" to myself over and over. I really like it. A lot. I feel like I might not be going to the truck show this weekend.

And this 68 Polara, which is why I stopped in the first place. I like my hardtop, but I'll be damned if this doesn't look great as a two door.

I got a 76 for maverick, what are my a/c options? It my first car and I don't wanna give it up for a civic but this Texas heat is gonna give me a heat stroke one day.

All real nice, that Crosley reminds me of something the brits would make. That coronet....Makes me question my loyalty to falcons.

I looked it all over, and the last thing I did was wonder what the rear end looked like. If course I fucking love it. Why wouldn't I? And the one I'll be trading for is black, which I like even better. I'm fucking doomed.

88 and my DD. Also hasn't moved in a few weeks.

"needs frame restoration before passing insurance inspection"
How scared should I be, pic related