/mod/ - Modified Car General

beam axle. from a bug
inside are leaf springs. but they twist instead of bend.

I also just spent 500nz doing the full 120k service. (Car has done 150k without even so much as the fuel filter changed)
And 1200 on a full set of 235+265 nitto invos. They have so much cornering grip even in the wet it's terrifying. I can fly around corners rated for 35k at 80 lol

sounds fun until you get into an accident. If you hurt someone their lawyer is going to be all over you for non-DOT everything.

Not a bad setup. How does the Kakimoto sound on that engine? I've got a system on my car. Quiet at idle but really screams otherwise. It's great.

Have a look into a Blitz Turbo Timer. Mines set to ten seconds but it will automatically run longer if it needs to. Works well and is easy to turn off if you have to.

how would i survive?

You can get manual maximas in the states? That's cool. Do they have the VG?

Sounds really good, quite loud on idle actually. I plan to delete the cats and put in test pipes but apparently that makes it quiter lol
I don't even use the turbo timer, I just drive sedately before I get to my destination, and if I have to I'll sit in it and idle with the keys in no big deal

That's fucking crazy. How's the ride comfort offroad?

The 3rd gens did I believe. 4th gens and up got the vq

in back its soft soft, the front is so light that it is hard to bottom out no matter what happens.

Not a whole lot done yet.

Breathing mods:
Takeda attack intake
Fast intentions resonated HFC

Suspension:
Tein Streets front and rear

Misc:
EcuTek 93 octane street tune
Pilot sports on all 4 corners

Most of this I pulled off of the old G.

I wanna do sways, meatier tires, in the near future along with other various restoration pieces like get the front bumper replaced or repainted. I just refinished the calipers today.

Gonna be a long road.

why would you do anything to such a boring gutless car.

How do people have this many mods? This seems like thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours

To have a fun daily I can also take up through some of the valleys around here?

It's quick enough at 5.0s 0-60 and corners hard. Not sure why you wouldn't

>4/10 for making me reply

>gutless
Not really kid. Think of it as a luxury cruiser like the 300zx was, only more emphasis on luxury.

mine on the right

so far:
>Headlights 55W DDM 5K HIDs
>Foglights 35W DDM 5K HIDs
>Shark Stage 1 @ 258hp/300tq
>Front Volvo BBK (larger front calipers from V50 AWD)
>EBC Sport Rotors
>EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads
>Elevate rear motor mount
>Eibach Springs
>Koni FSDs
>Elevate TCV

well, more of what i did was to the suspension, and that comes a lot cheaper than speedparts

my car is a rarity- because it's stage 3 and i daily it- but i set it up this way because of my use case - not to mention the former owner used it as his track day car- so a lot of the engine and suspension stuff was already done to it.

most people have less mods or buy two cars, but because of limited space in my driveway and crazy insurance in connecticut, i settled for an all in one. i'm a firefighter, so speed is helpful with response to calls, as is handling, but i needed something that could get me through the winter. a lifted truck might work better in the winter, but i would suffer on speed and handling- and a rwd sports car would be comfy but forget it for 5 months out of the year.

in total, i've spent about 7 grand on this car so far, including purchasing it, and i'll probably pay about another 1000 this month getting all of the emergency lights and siren in and configured- pic related.

i'm happier with it than i would have been with an off-the-shelf vehicle. it doesn't hurt that i can fly

95 200SX
s15 turbo at 10psi
3 inch fgk exhaust
chinese juddys
shimmed lsd
recaro fixed back
trust shifter
clear indicators
tints
17x9 p1s

I was gonna build the engine to try make 200wkw but just want to sell it now and get a straight 6.

>JB4
>MHD back end flash
>VRSF 7" high density FMIC
>VRSF catless downpipes
>HKS SSQV blow off valve
>BMS dual cone intakes
>Megan racing axleback

>TCKline coilovers
>18x9.5 and 18x8.5 APEX ARC-8s with 275/35/18 and 255/35/18 Federal RS-RRs

>LCI tail lights
>BLACKED™ kidneys
>Some gay ass angel eyes

Dynoed at 355whp with just the JB4 so it's probably around 400/400 with the new mods and an e35 mix.

The JB4 has Bluetooth too so I have a tablet with gauges for IATs, boost, oil/water temp, high/low pressure fuel pumps etc and I can read/clear codes since it's an N54 after all :^)

Next mods should be swaybars and a Quaife differential unless my turbos go out in which case I'm going Pure stage 2.

Tein street flex coilovers
SPC rear LCA's
Alignment specs (0 toe, -2.0°F -1.5°R camber)
Tanabe concept g catback (single exit)
Tomei uel header
Openflash tablet
Project mu pads
17x9 +35 rpf1's with 245/40 hankook rs3's

Not pictured: Toyota emblems

Also pictures don't really capture how this fitment looks IRL. In pics it looks small but in person it's just right. My coilovers have another quarter inch or so I can lower it but I think I'll need toe arms to keep my alignment fine.

How much do headers really fix this car's power delivery? Or is the SC kit the only way to truly fix it?

I have a friend running 255 nexen sur4s and THAT looks just right

Not really a shitbox and not really modded yet.
All that's done are simple breather mods:
-Gifted Takeda short ram intake that prob does nothing. Looks kinda cool tho
-JET performance MAF
-Full 2 1/4 straight pipe for muh scavenging
And hopefully misc Dyno tune next wed/Thursday. Gotta go to the local shop and see what the process is. That's gonna be all until I get a new daily. At that point gonna buy cams for sure, possibly custom from comp or cams from a svt contour (depends on price and I know svt cams go on the 3l). Ported heads too - I don't really trust myself to do a home port so gonna have to mail the fuckers out. Can't realistically do anything with my exhaust manifold, can port upper and lower intake manifold though. Probably going to have to get high-comp heads, forged rods and such and have to do something about the transmission and suspension. Because I'm tasteless I want this obnoxious rake to the car like a stinkbug stance. It's gonna take a while but I really want it to happen

>200sx

is this one of the fuckers with the ford duratec? iirc someone ripped the turbos off a trashed ecoboost cop car and stuck them on with a little work- something to think about.

>1988 AW11 SC
>Gen 4 3SGTE swap from a 2000 Caldina
>Transmission from a 97 JDM turbo
>KAAZ LSD
>Berk Exhaust for an SW20 turbo
>CT20B turbo
>HKS EVC (from the 90s)
>Air/fuel ratio gauge
>generic boost gauge
>pioneer sub and headunit

I think that's most of it, but I can list more about what's wrong than I can of actual things done to it. I need new rear toe arms (toe links?) because one of the ones I have right now is fucked

how hard to install was the lsd?

I considered boosting the car but since I'm a true Jap I think boost is a cop-out and it pollutes the driving experience. I'm only serious about the cop out bit. I genuinely feel like everyone just hacks a turbo kit nowadays and it's almost as overdone as ls swaps. I definitely want something different and a hi-rev N/A build is kinda rare now

Hello friend. Your car is inspiring me. Out of curiosity how much power you putting down?

I'm not sure, I didn't do most of the build. Bought it from a guy.

Oh yeah I forgot the battery was relocated to the frunk too.

There's a lot I'm forgetting

Completely fixes the torque dip. The car actually has a midrange now, but it also picked up power throughout the rev range.

wtf

Because boost is cheaper, will make more power, and be more reliable than a high revving NA motor. High revving being more than the factory redline.

wow now thats a hot intake. so does the car have any issues? it looks like it would heat soak like a mofo

i suppose that's true, if you do it wrong. however, they can create a whole new range of new power.

make your own decisions though- i would recommend hitting up a ford dealership and test driving a taurus sho just to get a feel for it. i was considering a ford five hundred but it made me want a turbo in my next car- hence subie

last dyno day with 105 octane the max i saw was 390 to the wheels, 410lb ft.

on pump 93 with the 93 octane map selected i saw closer to 350 to the wheels

yes

How is the fixed seat? I have considered replacing my driver's seat with one.

Considered meth injection?

My roomate got a BRZ (despite me recommending other cars) and is already irritated with the midrange. I told him to go with new headers, cat delete, and catback. Then get a tune. Hopefully that will get the job done for him.

Yeah, reliability shouldnt be an issue as it won't be my daily at that point, but in regards to price and power-yeah you are correct. I've driven boosted cars, though not a SHO like suggested and yeah it's breddy awesome, but im fucking retarded and don't understand a thing about forced induction and problems with it or how to do boost right. I might change my mind when I properly research everything, but right now everything is up in the air and I'm focusing on small things first.
TLDR: Good advice and I might follow it

I'm going to ahve to reroute the intake soon. I'm think about a snorkel and then piping the intake up to that.

Heat sink isn't too bad, the intercooler is pretty big and it does receive a good amount of air from the top vents. I think that a snorkel would only help that.

Current issues
>pops out from fifth gear
>oil pressure gauge doesn't work
>speedo doesn't work
>not sure how accurate the gauges actually are at all
>half of the electronic stuff is just a fucking mess of wires
>no cigarette lighter for a plug in
>burns some oil
>odometer doesn't work
>frunk pops up when crusing, needs hood pins
>might be burning oil (not really sure because after about 2000 miles it was down a quart)
>after market wheel so the horn doesn't work
>cruise control doesn't work
>no AC because of the swap
>because of battery relocation the frunk is mostly useless
>can't fit a spare or donut
>needs new toe links (or toe arms, I don't know if those are the same things)
>the paint and clear coat are shit
>the car is dirty as fuck on the outside
>tires are dry rotted

yeah, but not seriously considering it. i'm happy with the subie now, and for the next 100k it's just going to be maintenance until the motor detonates
there's no problem with lack of knowledge. go find the forum for your car, i assume there is one, and research what people do. the most documented practice is the one you should go with.

And I have my doubts any dealership will be dumb enough to let me in a SHO. I usually look homeless on my days off from work. I'll still try and finesse something tho

oh damn that sounds expensive to fix especially the 5th gear. i heard old toyota speedometer cables are impossible to find

Definitely do it man it's one of the best mods I've done. You feel much more in control of the car and the way it's pointing, especially for drifting.
It's a bit tiring to sit in for long drives. I have a daily so doesn't bother me but if you don't you might want to consider that.

Yeah, it's going to be expensive and take a long time. I don't even know if a speedo cable exists for something like this. I wonder if it would be easier just to convert gauge to electric. It drives in fifth fine, I just have to keep my hand on the shifter

The engine is OBD2 but the car is OBD1 so it's a fucking mess and there were some transmissions that had electric speed sensors and some had cables. But, the tachometer does work and that's probably the most important

A lot of it isn't too bad to do myself, it's just figuring out how the fucking thing works.

The closest thing I could find was a Taurus forum, some solid stuff there. I also tried finding speed parts and got to what seemed like a badass site until I found out all parts labeled "Ford v6" meant vulcan. And some of the more known builds for the Duratec 3 is boost, or SVT parts-that much I know. Definitely have to read more though

Those are torsion bars not leaf lol

I modified it.

Hey guys, I was thinking about buying a Legacy GT 5-sp Manual (2006 Generation) as a daily. What should I Look out for?

What kind of power can I make with the stock turbo?

Make sure it has headlights and a front bumper.

Kek'd harder than I should have.
sorry

That's okay.

Car: 2010 Mustang GT

93 Octane Street Tune
AirAid CAI
BBK Long Tube Headers
Borla Off Road X-Pipe
Borla Atak Axel-back Exhaust
BMR Front Sway Bar Kit
BMR Rear Sway Bar Kit
BMR Weld On Subframe Connectors
BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod
BMR Upper Panhard Rod Support
BMR Lower Rear Control Arms
BMR Upper Rear Control Arms
BMR Control Arm Relocation Brackets
BMR Upper Control Arm Mounts
BMR Lowering Springs (1.5' drop)
BMR Strut Tower Brace
GT500 Upper Strut Mounts
Sumitomo Summer Tires
PowerStop Z26 Drilled/Slotted Rotors

buy it. stock turbo is pretty good; spools fast. the 5 speed is eh, see if you can do a spec b 6 speed swap- which is really a bulletproof transmission.

i have the 5speed auto in mine, it's fine though

timing, seals, and corrosion are the things to look out for, but honestly, it's rare that they actually fail. subarus are more reliable than toyotas imo

by the way, when you replace the front clip and all that, hit superbrightleds.com and get them all over it. i can't tell you how much more it made me love the subie look

I'm an ass and forgot a picture.

in back they are. but in front they really are leaves.

Pics?

This sounds hella loud, in the best way

...

Should I cam my corolla? I want to for muh lopey idle

i always wondered why those didnt have a factory sunroof. the interior was so dark

Let's see

>FP xpipe
>Roush axel backs
>Gt350 sve wheels 285 front 305 rear
>One piece aluminum driveshaft and safety loop
>Barton hybrid 3 shifter
>Poly diff bushings
>K member brace
>Strut tower brace
>Irs cradle support bushings
>Spherical lower control arm bearings
>Steeda irs support brace
>Billet vertical links
>Adjustable sway bars
>Adjustable end links
>Braided brake lines
>PP brembo brakes
>Steeda clutch spring
>Apr front splitter
>Carbon fiber rear diffuser
>Steeda race wing
>CDC front grille
>gt350 steering wheel
>koni yellow shocks
>ford racing y springs

Probably more suff I forgot, I'll be changing the intake manifold over to the gt350 one when it arrives.

sounds like a giant heap of shit desu
is it worth the trouble to you?

streamable.com/wkjxe

This was on my shitty phone, so it doesn't do it much justice. Also before I did the suspension package so the car is sitting higher.

Ah, my friend has a class 9 buggy and I've had to change the rear bearings and axles and fulcrum thingies a few times and I only ever saw the bar in the back.
Never fucked with the front just figured it was the same shit.

Last but not least, mine and my brother's.

yiff in hell

with vw, never assume. i mean just look at some of the factory tools for a beetle and you will go wtf

Lol we both pop up in the same threads for some reason.

kys loser stay blasted
>with vw, never assume
This is actually really true, been blown away by retarded shit a few times messing with them.
They do some weird stuff sometimes.

Kys loser

I would've liked a sunroof just to add to the summer driving feels without having to get a convertible.

that makes me moist.

youtu.be/q8Nhg8QxSzs
This is what I'm shooting for, going for nearly this exact set up. Won't be nearly as sexy as yours unfortunately though.

Will be getting the CBE later this summer likely.

>furfaggot samefags THIS hard
Lmao

Stop derailing the thread you mongoloid.

yasssss derail me daddy!!!

'93 in Montego blue (base model w/ leather seats and cruise control)

Installed by previous owner
>Tenzo fog lights
>Viper alarm system
>"High flow" catalyst
>Twin tip catback (unknown brand)

Installed by me
>Pre-cat delete; 3 inch Rotary Performance stainless steel downpipe
>Pettit aluminum air separation tank
>Mishimoto all aluminum radiator
>Apex'i Power FC + Commander
>Rotary Performance secondary fuel rail
>Bosch 2200 cc secondary injectors
>Simplified sequential twin turbo control system
>Single speed fan mod
>Pressure tank delete
>"Double throttle" delete
>Accelerated warm up delete
>Throttle bottle coolant delete

Makes 11 psi, 243 hp to the wheels, and gets a whopping 17 mpg highway

I've never driven a G37 but I could imagine them being like a more luxurious 370z on twisty roads. If I could offer one piece of advice from my experience, mod your suspension carefully based on the roads in your area. When I first had mine installed (I don't know how to weld so I took it to a shop), I went crazy and had them adjust everything to the highest performance settings. Bad move. I went back maybe two days later and read the manual to adjust it myself to MUCH lighter settings because the any bump in the road would throw me all over the place as the suspension was so tight.

I got mine set very mildly, I made that exact mistake on my Mazda 6. Shit rattled me to pieces the first week. Some of our roads are beat up. Luckily KY maintains its to an acceptable degree, but OH GOD Ohio needs to get its shit together.

its roads*

335i
All metal charge pipe conversion
Tial 50mm bov
Mmp inlets
BMS intakes
5 inch core intercooler
Catless down pipes
255 walbro add-on fp
275/35 rs-rr tires rear
255/35 RE760 potenza front

H&R race springs
All new oem suspension arms

Hopefully i can break into the 11s with a new tune. I hit 12.3 yesterday heat soaked

i recognize those wheels

This is one of the coolest cars i've ever seen on Veeky Forums

yaaaaaaaaaaaaaas

Honestly, I don't know.

The car drives and really so long as it does that reliably, that's what matters. I can do all the little comfort things later

Nowhere close to anyone ITT
>H&R Sport lowering springs
>Bilstein B8 struts/shocks
>Garagistic 75A (I believe) poly subframe bushings
>Garagistic poly trailing arm bushings
>Garagistic delrin diff mount bushing
>Garagistic adjustable rear subframe
>M3 front control arm bushings
>Mark D 93 octane chip tune
>325is 3.73 LSD
In the (hopefully) near future, if I decide to keep it
>E36 or Z3 steering rack
>Ireland Engineering catback
>long tube headers
>Catless midpipe

But I need to get it running on all 6 cylinders again and fix the brakes and make it stop leaking oil first.

Got a misfire or no compression?

I'm scared to check. I pulled the spark plug wires one by one and it's cylinder 4 that's not working right, and there's a hole in the exhaust heat shield right below the spark plug for cylinder 4, so I'm hoping that the plug/wire just got hot and stopped working. It also looked pretty oxidized, so I'm just going to replace them all and hope for the best. I'm sure that it can use them.

It's also leaking a ton of coolant from the heater core so I'm going to block that off since I live in Florida and hope that fixes that problem.

No spark will def make a misfire. Hopefully it's just that. Would probably deal with that hole while you're down there too

That's the only reason I'm considering long tube headers because you have to pull the manifolds off to change the heat shield anyway so I might as well get some good ones.

ayy e30 boys

>h&r cup kit from a vert aka looks kinda low but still huge body roll
>manual swapped
>3 spoke 'sport' steering wheel
>sticky 14" tires (not in pic)
>kei knob adapter w/ mishimoto tall weighted shift knob
>cruise control delete because doesn't work with manual swap and i don't care for it

how do those garagistic bushings feel? I want to get the motor mounts soon, but not sure about doing the rest of them. As my car sits right now it's pretty fun on the track/autox but the body roll is a bit wild. Still struggling with comfort seats and bracing myself.

I think I'm going the purple tag (e46) steering rack swap because i've heard the tightest z3 rack is twitchy on the highway

pls gib lsd