How in the living fuck can I remove this stripped screw from my brake rotor? Working on my 2010 civic...

How in the living fuck can I remove this stripped screw from my brake rotor? Working on my 2010 civic, and the screw was already kinda stripped and this is the first time I'm removing it. I think it being really seized in there, along with me whacking it with my impact screwdriver, caused it to strip and now I have no idea how to remove it. Any tips?

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Cut a slot into it and use a flat head.

EZ-out. Did you use PB blaster beforehand?

I know an axe wouldnt work

>Cut a slot into it and use a flat head.
Best answer, to be quite desu

>screws being used in car parts

How can I cut one in? I don't have a dremel sadly.

Torx screws are a literal tangible crime against humanity, but auto """""engineers""""" insist on using them no matter what nationality they are

Problem is that its relatively flush with the rotor, which means its a bitch to cut a decently sized flat track into it without damaging the rotor

I'd just drill out the head of the screw, remove the rotor and then remove the remains of the screw with a pair of solid waterpump pliers/vice grips

Buy a damn dremel.

I just assumed he needed to get it off because he was replacing the rotor.

This

I don't care if I damage the rotor, putting a new one on there.

go to the hardware store, buy a kit to drill out stripped bolts
also in the future, use a normal socket wrench with socket to fit a phillips head. you can apply a lot more perpendicular force than with a screw driver, and that makes it much more likely to break loose as opposed to just strip

>a fucking screw holding on a brake rotor
Good god, what was honda thinking?

Still, drilling is quicker and guaranteed to work, and you also don't have to buy the dremel you don't have

No, he should buy a dremel because it's a fucking dremel. Cheap single speeds are like 40 bucks and they have infinite uses.

how it works with most people is they buy tools as they need them. right now op doesnt need a dremel, he needs a drill and the correct bits

Its a really handy tool, sure; but he also might be kinda indisposed if he lives alone and his only vehicle is currently jacked up with potentially non-working brakes?

(and before you go HURRDURR THE SCREW HAS NO EFFECT ON BRAKES - I am aware, I am refering to the reason as to why he is replacing the rotors, which I suppose might be damage or something else that makes it unsafe to drive)

take the brake rotors of and all that then take a sledge hammer and pound the stud out

drill it out or use a bolt in the other hole and screw it in, will force the screw thats stuck out.

i dont think you're on the same page as the rest of us

Holy fuck dude all these retarded answers

Get one of these and start tapping it into the edge of the screw. Then, after making a small pocket, turn to about 45 degrees and hammer it counter clockwise to loosen the screw. Did this every single business day working on Honda's. Easy as fuck.

cheap AF screw remover get them for $1 at dollar mart or get fancy and buy the $3 shiny plated-breaks-just-as-easy. you gunna use it only once anyways right?

i almost fell for it

Drill it

Thats just a shitty alignment screw, you don't even need it to put the rotors on

I had the same issue with mine, I took a hammer and drift and just nailed the shit out of it at an angle until it started to turn. Those screws fucking suck and only exist to hold the rotors in place for assembly.

OP here. Gonna buy a screw extractor now and hope that works with my semi weak ass drill. Will I be fine to drive around with one screw in the rotor? The other one is fine and didn't get stripped.

cook the screw with propane
then give it another round with a bigger hammer

Them shits don't work half the time

blowtorch it. cut a notch. use flathead.

or just trash the civic and get a toyota.

This is the correct answer. Drill it out and replace the rotor.

I've used these twice. It shouldn't be hard to get it out.

OP here again. I gave up, a fucking stripped screw wasted my entire afternoon of me driving back and forth trying to find shit to get it out. I bought this pic related and I don't fucking know how to use it or if it'll even work. The screw now just looks like I drilled into it for 5 mins, which I did, so now I probably made matters worse. Guys please help I'm just pissed beyond this point.

Drill it out. Sometimes not even a dremel will work for it, but yes, you should have a dremel.

They put them there to hold the rotors on during assembly. That's it. No other reason. I take them out of any car I get that has them.

This. I've had a couple Civics over the years, don't bother putting them back in. They don't do anything.

Make a hole with a punch or a small drill bit. Put that drill bit in the start of the hole. Put a lot of pressure on the drill and slowly drill. It'll come out.

And when I say drill it out, I mean get a regular fucking drillbit like 3/16" size or so, spray some WD40 on the screw as a shitty attempt at cutting lube, and drill out the screw. You don't need a fancy extractor, just buy the cheapest fucking 3/16 bit you can find.

OP i had the same issue. I used a small drill bit and drilled it out. Pretty easy stuff. . .

That one bit I know I have to hammer it into the hole right? And then use the drill bit to start drilling into the screw?

>tfw you do the rotors on your civic and the previous shop didn't bother putting screws back on so it goes smooth as fuck

>I'm just pissed beyond this point.
I fucking hate this feel man. Seems like any time I work on my car I feel like this by the end

I planned to replace both my front rotors, and lube up the brake area. 4 hours later and not a single thing done. I love doing my own repairs and maintenance but when stupid shit like this, one fucking screw fucks everything up. I fucking hate living on the east coast, snow rusts everything up on my car and seizes it up.

Drill it out, buy some left hand cut twist drills later on for this purpose.

For now doing it normally should be fine, but you're not going to like it very much.

Lol I'm on the east coast too. Did my drum brakes a couple months ago. Took 5 fucking hours to get the first drum off. 5. Fucking. Hours. Then 3 hours jerking off all the springs. Still haven't even bothered with the other side I always enjoy doing shit when it goes smoothly but that never seems too happen.

Yes, yes they do. They hold the rotor in place before installing the caliper and wheel. You remove the screw and install it into the threaded hole visible in OP's picture and it will break the rotor loose for easy removal. Problem is, nobody fucking uses anti-sieze, which is absolutely mandatory on these.

OP again, going to attempt the drill tomorrow and if I get it out then I'm leaving it at that, not putting it back in or replacing it as I read up on it and it's not needed after all. I really appreciate all the help though lads.

That fucking blows man, sorry that happened. I'll never buy a car with drum brakes, after seeing how mechs replace them and all, not even worth the hassle.

Dude what the fuck are you doing? Just drill the head off. In fact don't even worry about drilling into the shank to remove it because it doesn't even fucking matter.

Would have been 5 minutes with this.

Yeah I'll probably swap them for discs before I even touch the other side

>2010 civic

No it wouldn't have. The drum was completely rusted to the hub AND the studs and it was nearly impossible to pry it off because the shoes were holding it tighter than a nun

Definitely do that man. Save the enormous headache.

It's definitely on my list but it's a long ass list lol

>cut drum in half with grinder
>remove pieces
Done.

I don't have a grinder and by that point the car was up and the wheels were off so I wasn't putting everything back unless I absolutely had to. Plus I'd still have to scrape everything off and fuck with all the springs

nothing wrong with Torx

Just need to make sure you are using the right bit and they actually end up being better.

youtube.com/watch?v=YxQk7Pz_vfc

youtube.com/watch?v=Pwz-NXj5ZIk

dont fug with JIS mang

As a Mechanical Engineering student, the advantage of Torx screws is they stay on the bit without aid, this is incredibly useful when you have a robot assembling the part since you don't have to have a mechanism to hold the bolt on, and also comes in handy when you need to screw in a screw that's inside of a hole.

As another plus it's much easier to determine if you have the correct size bit or not when compared to a hex head screw once rusted.

stop spreading misinformation just because you read it on a tibetan glass blowing forum. the screws are there so the rotors move around less during normal driving. ever wonder why the rotors don't sit perfectly flush with the hub when you're changing brakes? oh that's right you wouldn't know because you're a fucking busrider who doesn't have their license yet

But user, he removed them and didn't notice any difference so that means they do nothing.

>remember this screw to hold rotor b.s. from a 1985 accord my parents had
>25 years later
>they're still doing it
>just replace a lug stud on my '89 camry
>none of this special snowflake screw to hold the rotor on bullshit
feels excellent man

>defends torx
get fucked I hope you die before you design anything you asshole

I don't hate torx, it doesn't strip if you breathe on it too hard. Phillips can go fuck itself.

>approving of any male ended tool
people like this should be shot
the tools themselves are always shit and meant to be disposable
>don't see a lot of chrome vanadium torx bits
even horror freight sockets have lifetime warranty

Do you honestly believe a small m10 screw could transfer the brake load to the hub and stop the vehicle?
Do you honestly believe that the several tons of clamping force caused by the wheel isn't enough to hold the rotor in place?

I just did the math, your average wheel is clamping with ~72,000 pounds.

Yeah those screws are worthless and I drilled them out myself on like three cars at least. The only time I found them helpful is for German cars like VWs where they use wheel bolts. A real pain in the ass lining up the wheel, rotor, and hub for the bolts.

...

dude just drill the head of the screw until you can whack the rotor off, then slot whatever nub of metal is left and get out the screw

>reusing that nasty fucking rotor that is probably warped

Terrible idea.
If it stripped out as a cross head it'll strip as a flat head.

Drill it out. If it's hard use a cheap carbine burr and grind it out.
Once the head is fucked off, you can remove the disc and get a set of vice grips on the screw and remove it by just unscrewing it.

I have seen it in a lot of cars, to be honest.

1. Drill the head off and use vice grips, those screws aren't necessary

2. It's a JIS screw. If you use Phillips, it'll strip. No one seems to know this for some reason.

1. Find a hex nut with the inside hole about the same size as the head of the stripped screw.
2. weld the inside of the nut on top of the stripped screw head (plug weld)
3. let it cool naturally, the heat will have probably burnt the rust away, and you can turn the screw out by the nut. like a regular hex bolt.

Or again... just use a 1/2 inch drill bit and drill the head off. I'm not sure why you are having problems with that.

there is usually an access hole on the back cover plate; you can go through there to turn the adjusters back down. the drum will usually come right off. unless its rusted to the center hub, then just give it a few whacks with a sledge.

have a rounded bolt on my brake caliper at the moment. dealer wants like $400 to fix it

100% not reusing it, shit is warped and rusted as fuck. Going to reattempt this shit when I get off of work today, going to try drilling more and then maybe go buy a chisel and hammer it into a corner and get it loose there.

L-let us know how it turns out user, we're pulling for you~

You could replace the caliper for cheaper than that.

Now you are fucker.
You have to drill away the screw and thread new threads or buy new hub.
Also you can try to drill off only head of bolt, remove rotor, add some penetrating fluid and try to unscrew it with some kinda of pliers

>fucker.
fucked.
Fix.

Next time put some copper grease on bolts before bolting 'em.

Drill the fucking head off, and move on.

The screw only keeps the rotor in place for assembly. Once you put the wheel on the lug nuts do the real work.

For all practical purposes, it's unnecessary.

But why they put it then?

Because it doesn't have wheels on it for most of the time it's going down the line at the factory.

>But why they put it then?
Holds the rotor in place during assembly, and when you take wheels off.

That little yellow jap steel screw isn't going to do anything useful when you hit the brakes.

The rotor will flop around a but without it when the wheel is off, but it's not going anywhere. Once you tighten the lugs, the rotor is trapped between the wheel and the hub.

Only for that?

it does keep crap from getting between the hub and the rotor when the wheel is off so that there's no wobble, but if you are aware that it's loose and pay attention, it's not an issue.

You can always drill out the screw after the rotor is off and retap (metric), and replace it, but it's not a critical part.

weld something on to it

It absolutely is NOT necessary. It is an assembly aid at the factory. The axle assemblies are pre-assembled and delivered to the assembly lines with the brake rotors attached using that small screw. the lug nuts are what holds the rotor in place when the wheel/tire are added at the end of the assembly line.

>other makes have nothing
>a screw to hold the rotor during assembly

OP here back again. Borrowed my neighbors more powerful drill, got the head off and the rotor is off (yay!) Now as you can see the rest of the screw is still in the hole, I tried drilling more but was scared to damage the hub assembly, or whatever its called (already made a few chips as you can see)

Is it okay to just leave it? Going to screw in the other hole as that screw didn't get stripped, is it ok to leave it like this? Won't fuck with anything?

You're fine. Those screws do fuck all, just pay attention when attaching your rotars and wheels and torque everything in a star pattern. The remains of that screw aren't hurting anything and they aren't going anywhere.

I needed a hex key to get the rotors off my bmw.

You can leave it, but I've never had a problem using vice grips to get those screws out after drilling the heads off (I've done it twice)

>only response to his reasoning is autistic screeching