/mg/ - Miata General

/mg/ - Miata General

Ask all your Miata related questions here

>miata pics and vids
>miata feels
>miata questions and answers
>miata hair styling tips and tricks

FAQ:
can I fit?
>if you're under 6'2" and aren't overweight you can fit without modification

can I daily drive one?
>yes most people can daily drive a miata no problem. I have commuted in miatas for 4 years now

even in the snow?
>yes miatas can drive well in the snow (with four snow tires)

Other urls found in this thread:

boulder.craigslist.org/cto/6164040100.html
twitter.com/AnonBabble

I am bored with my Miata guys. There are just too many compounding issues now that make me want to get rid of it.

>have to worry about rust
>have to worry about the paint
>have to have somewhere to park it indoors
>unsafe as fuck
>dont get any respect on the road
>slow

Gonna sell this piece of shit and get a 5 series like I should have in the first place.

Where and how much and what condition

It's located in Massachusetts. Probably 8/10 condition

>I am bored with my Miata guys.

Shit, man, I've got the opposite problem - I've had mine since '08 and love it now more than ever. I came across a car I really *REALLY* want (pic quite related, a stock manual Saabaru 9-2X Aero) but I would hate myself for the rest of my life if I sold the miat.

>tfw bonded with mom by stripping most of my car and making custom rear shelf since previous rear shelf was rusted to shit

>tfw bonded with mom by making car completely leak proof, porting the engine, and doing a coolant reroute

>tfw bonded with mom by repairing dent, and touching up paint

>tfw car mires by FWB, random college kids at stop lights, and old boomers

feelsgluteman

>leaves out extremely relevant price

ill roadtrip for it but im semi poor

I have a horrible leak coming from somewhere on the rear shelf. i tried cleaning the sills but theres still water. wat do?

Is there anything redeemable about pic related?

>There's significant power potential in the 1.4T
>looks nicer than an ND? Subjective, but at least the 124 doesn't have angry headlights

i just got my first car mod ever in the mail
bought a new exhaust for my NB, gonna fit in this saturday
thought i'd share that

What do you call two or miatas driving together?

...

Your rain rail is probably fucked. My friend had it happen with his

What kind of potential are we talking? I've always been curious but never seen anything concrete

Congrats man, don't get addicted (or do, it's fun)

A salon of miatas

How much money have you guys spent on your Miata?

I'm interested in the car but would like to know how much money the typical enthusiast spends on it.

It's almost time for some new pads and rotors on my 1.6. What's a decent pad and rotor setup that won't cake my wheels in brake dust, and has rotors that won't rust and look like shit?

just got the failing diff out of my NB
way more of a bitch than i expected, you really HAVE to take off the exhaust and it's very handy to take off the half shafts if you can

Here's my mod/repair list, you can add it up. The first 6 things don't have a price because they were installed by the previous owner. The 2.5 kit is like $1200 tho.

Flyin Miata 2.5 Kit
Pioneer DEH-X6700BT
Kicker door speakers
weathertech + garagestar front license plate
ebay smoked turn signals
timing belt and water pump
Clutch interlock delete 93k
Voodoo Shift Knob 93k
$50 Delrin door bushings 93k
$1000 Hardtop 93k
$0 '94 Torsen LSD 4.3 95k
$0 carquest GL5 gear oil in the diff 95k
$80 Energy Poly diff bushings 95k
power steering fluid flush 95k
$60 r package lip 96k
$400 BFGoodrich G-Force Rival 205/50ZR15
$130 Enkei RP-02 15x7 +38
$15 Axle seal replaced 101k
$0 carquest GL5 gear oil topped off 101k
$0 differential vent removed and cleaned 101k
$15 Output shaft seal replaced 101k
$30 Motorcraft manual transmission fluid 101k
$70 5X shifter rebuild w/ bronze bushing 102k
$250 CSF aluminum radiator 102k
$15 Coolant system flush + Zerex pink 102k
$70 Clutch master + slave + braided clutch line 103k
$40 Analog oil pressure sending unit + gauge 103k
$0 timing advance 12° BTDC (use 89 octane) 104k
$450 Enkei RPF1 14x7
$0 Foamectomy 104k
$18 wix air filter 105k
$72 crank angle sensor 105k
$250 hardtop painted 108k
$10 thermostat 109k

Any other fatass drivers?
6' 300lbs in an NA

Can anybody tell me what behaviors are normal for early NA oil pressure gauges?

Cold starts up to about 55, a few seconds and it drops around 15

Driving at almost any revs sits around 30

Drops to 0 during hard turns and heavy breaking but back to normal once everything levels

MA here. Can anybody recommend a shop that can help me tune this bitch when I get done with internals and megasquirt?

Once the car is at operating temps mine sits at about 15 at idle, but when I'm on the highway (at 4-5k RPMs) I'm a bit below 60. When I startup cold, it's between 60 and 90. It shouldn't ever drop to 0. Fyi, I'm using Redline 5w-30 in the Texas summer.

Miati

>not Miatae

When cold, it should move between 55-90.
After it warms up, it will drop.

15-30 is average at idle for most 1.6 miatas when warm. With 35-55 lbs while cruising depending on RPM.

It shouldn't be reading 0, that would mean you lost all oil pressure in your motor. More than likely the sensor is showing its age and starting to go out, or the electrical connector is dirty.

I would unplug the connector and clean off the spade terminal on the sensor, then clip/unclip the pigtail to the sensor a few times to scrape out inside the actual pigtail.

if cleaning the connection doesn't help I would look at replacing the sensor. More often than not its one of these two things. If you car runs fine, the oil level is were it should be, and the engine doesn't make any noise id say your motor is fine, its something with the sensor/wiring.

Hope this helps.

What does it look like ?

Planning on buying an NB Miata as my first car this summer. I currently drive a Pajero Pinin from 2006 and I think it will be a major change.

I want to buy it from Germany, looking only for private owned ones, not through dealerships because they are scammers.

What should I take in consideration, any specific miata problems to look for? Details. And tell me how great is the MX5, I want some motivation to finish my exams with a high mark so I can buy one afterwards.

I spent $1000 on the car, a 92 1.6 and $300 to get it driving again. Sine then I have put around $2000 in different parts over the last year.
Intake
header,
exhaust,
wheels,
ploy bushings for suspension, diff, engine.
more wheels
new engine(old one got a rod knock from redlining all the time)
1.8 Clutch
1.8 lightened flywheel
springs
shocks
even more wheels(I own too many sets)
VLSD
then swapped the VLSD for a welded diff.
1.8 front brake swap
neon ignition coil coversion

and many other small things that add up over time. interior and body and whatnot

I'm in NJ, so i need a car with

Local facebook groups. I have seen some great deals through mine.

They aren't as fast or as sporty as you would expect. The handling and driving sensation is the best of any car out there, but the suspension is softer than the average sports car and there is no power to work with so it's more about being quick and spirited a little above the speed limit than going stupid fast and taking out 300 feet of cattle fence. You can feel what kind of paint is on the road with your ass but it isn't jarring or hard.

In daily driving, it has the most trunk space of any roadster, which means only half your groceries will be in the passenger seat. The interior is small but functional, it looks and feels almost exactly like sitting in an MGB. The gas mileage is okay, I get 28mpg no matter how hard I thrash it up a mountain or try to hypermile. The top gives you a massive blindspot on the right hand side. You can't haul a third person, which is really inconvenient when you want to and fucking awesome when you don't.

What makes it special is that while nothing is particularly great other than the handling and sensation, they didn't fuck anything up. Every other car shits the bed in some way or another and you have to make a massive compromise. With this, you have to make a series of small compromises and it still comes out ahead. You'll probably get one no matter what and learn to live with it like any sports car if you like what it offers, but when the top is up and you're driving around town, it's like a small truck with a plastic roof and nowhere to haul anything larger than a duffel bag.

>unsafe

Honestly more people should care about this and it's the biggest reason why I'm never going to by an NA. I drive very defensively but after seeing enough Rekt threads on /gif/ or /b/ I an now aware of how close death every second I'm in the car due to factors outside my control.

An NA will literally do nothing to absorb the impact of somebody t-boning you or running into your lane causing a front overlap collision. In both cases, your 2000lb car will barely slow down a modern SUV barreling into you. If you roll over, the windshield will flatten and head will become pancaked.

These cars have awesome appeal in other areas, but you may as well be riding a motorcycle when it comes to safety. There's a reason cars have gotten heavier and bulkier over time.

In a miata it's either a swift death or you get out fine. New cars you're more likely to have your foot cut off or break your neck than die.

boulder.craigslist.org/cto/6164040100.html

Thoughts? I'm not necessarily looking at buying one any time soon, but I'm trying to get a feel for what I should look for when buying one, and from what I've seen of most craigslist shitters, this one seems to be pretty well documented and kinda makes me think it's been better maintained.

Looks good. Even if the car is junk that hardtop is 1k easy, not bad

This is part of the reason why I'm considering selling my NA and other assorted shitboxes once I graduate college and buying an ND. The ND is miles ahead of the NA in safety and is just as light.

I was thinking it was the sensor, but I wasn't sure if the alleged drop in pressure was just because of the location of the sensor and oil sloshing like bobber gauges in gas tanks used to

Looking to have a set of custom Work Equip 40's built for my NA.

Will 15x8.5 +13 fit with minimal tire stretch? I am pretty low on coilovers, 3.5 inch ground clearance.

Bought my NBFL for €3950
New radio €400
New exhaust €220

Thats all i've done for now
Gonna look for a suspension for around €500-600
And some new tires for €600

Thats where im (probably) going to stop. Maybe.

Way too fucking much

>spends more money on his radio than his exhaust
this is a man with his priorities straight

Look the fitment thread on clubroadster.net there are tons of pics to compare from with wheel specs included

My '99 feels like it has plenty of power.

I remember someone in the last thread asking about the difference in feel of the Type 2 Torsen diff -- Because it locks on decel, the car has a mildly understeery feel in corner entry, which can be rectified by giving it a boot of throttle at the apex, unlocking the diff and turning very smoothly.
It's very easy to skid in the rain as well but also very easy to control.

The NAs get around 90 at the wheels with the 1.6. You don't really notice until you get in a newer Mazda 3 and it hits 40 at half throttle in the same time it takes you to row through the gears to 25.