HELP ME HELP ME HELP ME

Battery wont hold charge for long, the relay (12 Volt 20/30 0 332 204 150 BOSCH) underneath the drivers side console is clicking making the clock go on and off, light signals on and off, and the temperature and gas gauges move up and down, battery eventually dies completely. Wtf is going on?

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youtu.be/StEaqE3SFeo
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Could also be a good idea to say what car this is, and when it happens

Its dead all the time, it only happens when I try to boost the battery with jumper cables but it just drains and dies. 95 Plymouth Neon SOHC 2.0 Litre

It happens when I try to start it with the key without ignition.

Does it start up and run alright for a while with a fresh battery?

Done a test on the charging, using a multimeter?

Sounds like you have a dead alternator, and that you may also have a dead battery

I haven't tried with a fresh battery. Car has been sitting around for awhile. when ignition is on the car starts up but engine shakes and the car wont stay idle just dies.

I just called the owner, he said the car was sitting around for a few years. Car would start for 20 min no problems but then it would just die, he says the battery is old and no good.

I'm just worried that there's more like you said if the alternator is dead, or if there's a parasitic draw going on somewhere. There seems to be some shoddy looking crimping electrical stuff going on undear the dash of driver, I think it might be an after market alarm, I heard those can make parasatic draws.

If the previous owner says the battery is no good then he is probably right. You'll need one anyways then, so its a good place to start. I would still recommend trying the old one with a multimeter

It *could* just be the battery being the problem aswell. I've seen cars that put out a relatively low amperage on startup, and also use a lot more power during the same startup, meaning that the car might not be able to start up properly because it needs the extra punch from a good battery before being able to run right

TLDR; get new battery, get it running (hopefully) and then run a multimeter test to confirm that it is or is not charging good

Ok thanks. Im gonna take it to a battery place right now to get it tested and probably get a new one.

Thank you.

Battery is probably bad, but I think you also have a bad ground. You'll need to consult a manual or the internet but you probably have 2 or three main grounds that are corroded and need to be cleaned.

Ok got the battery gonna teest it out in a sec.

Ok I'll look.

Fuck, now there's no ignition at all, the starter isn't making a noise, nothing turning. The new battery is nice and juiced. As soon as I plugged the new battery in the signal lights started blinking, went inside turned the key and got nothing from the starter but then the clock started blinking and the relay started clicking inside again and the check engine light was abnormally blinking as-well, i'm stumped did I break the ECU? I had removed some caked in dialectic grease and sprayed some electrical contact cleaner on to remove it. What do I do now guys.

Bump

Not him, but bump
Im curious

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/17044196/#17044196

Heres the previous thread of the problem.

Also a video of the initial problem when the car ran. youtu.be/StEaqE3SFeo

Heres a pic of the relay that clicks, the wiring looks suspect, there's some loose electrical tape around it there was some crimping done around the area.

A little bit of bare wire sticking out of the butt connector.

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New alternator

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Bump

Thats not a stock relay, no way

First question, albeit stupid one; did you put the battery in the right way? As in positive to positive, negative to negative? I'd also try a different ground for the battery negative terminal, as this can sound a bit like insufficient ground. Clean the terminal, use sandpaper on the inside of the clamp, and find a spot to run a thick wire to the chassis so that you know you have plenty of contact patch for the wire

I'd do a check to see if the starter works. Just run a thick wire directly from the battery to the positive terminal of the starter motor. It should start turning over right away

If no go; starter is broken, but I think you have more serious issues

Have you looked up all of your main fuses? Typically quite big, square fuses that are 60a or bigger

Starter was working fine before. Yes I connected the battery the right way, positive to positive (red, negative to negative (black). I cleaned the battery connectors a bit, the battery is new so I don't see why to clean the terminal.

Is this the battery ground? And I did a visual inspection of the fuses, but not with the multimeter. I don't know how to check them, or the big ones.

Just to make sure

If the only thing you've touched was the battery then I really don't know what the issue could be now, if the starter was working fine

Wait, you wouldn't have had time to charge the battery, would you? They are supposed to come with some power, but its always recommended to give it a good charge before putting it in

I bought a refurbished battery today, I think they did it, it had 12.Somthing volts on it, my old one was dead at like 3.0 volts.

You have two options:
>replace the alternator as it's done for (diodes letting through AC current, making the car go crazy)
>someone messed with the electrics, ask the PO what they did and toss that out, better yet, get an electrician to do it so you wont set the car on fire
Looks more like it's a bit of both. And please, stop attempting to start it, as you could, judging by that shody wiring, also set it on fire.

The battery got it's portion of neglect and abuse and is gone anyways.

I did remove the ECU to clean it with some contact sprayer cause it was caked with this dialetic grease.

>refurbished battery

What the fuck dude, what are you going to tell us next? That you put the tyres on backwards because they were bald?

The PO threated the car like a piece of shit? Why do you think that skimping on maintenance now will solve anything?

If you really don't have the money to properly fix it, then get rid of it.

Ok, yea I disconnected the new battery. I think it might be an After market alarm in there somewhere, the keys have alarm button controller, i'll have to take the dash off to make sure.

Really a bad alternator? I thought its only function was to recharge the battery as the engine runs?

The place is good, the guys are legit, they are pros. No worries. 5 Star place.

>bad bearings (really, like the cheapest fix)
>warped stator (rotor starting to rub against it - it wont charge that well anymore)
>blown diodes - AC current in a DC system
>voltage regulator gone(17 V+ output at the alternator - battery wont like it)

Really, really, REALLY get an electrician do it.

Well, dialetic grease is kinda there to prevent oxidation, and should not be removed

Take some rough sand paper or a fine file, and use it to clean the insides of those terminals

Theres so many fake ass parts changing mother fuckers out there though, trust me Ive tried, theyre all full of shit, cant find anyone reliable to do it. I bought an original service manual and EFI book, i'm gonna fix it with Veeky Forums damnit.

If you really can't get a real electrician do it, then I advise you to get a fire extinguisher. A big one.

Ok I'll do a better cleaning job at it. I'll replace the Grease after I figure this stupid problem out, its hot right now anyway.

What do you think of this guys post mightybenz:

>replace the alternator as it's done for (diodes letting through AC current, making the car go crazy)
>someone messed with the electrics, ask the PO what they did and toss that out

What should the next step be here? Or should I do the check fuses with Power probe idea? Or look for parasitic draw? What do I do next.

I'll get the biggest one you ever seen. I'll get a fire fighter hose.

Dumbass, that'll short things out. Get a CO2 one

I'm gonna get a damn campaign bottle all to my self when I figure this out.

Heres the video of problem, thought it might give you guys a better idea.

youtu.be/KOCTThS4szI

Bump

Bump

aight m8, first of all calm down, there will be no "easy switch this thing out fix"

spontaneously, I'd suspect bad grounding. Try finding the ECU and fix any ground wires from it.
Bad ground is a main culprit for a lot of insane issues,

If you can get your hands on an OBD2 reader, that will help you a lot. There might be some trouble codes that will give you some advice.

ECU failure is pretty unbeliaveble, those things can handle a lot.

I had P1297 No Change in MAP sensor from start to run in the beginning, but then that went away and then I checked again and I got P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A circuit Low Input and P0122 Check for breaks, chafing, loose or disconnected wiring.

TPS error code went away, now all I have shoowing on the OBD2 is P0122 Check for breaks, chafing, loose or disconnected wiring.

As the trouble code implies, check for disconnected wires.

I still suspect bad ground. If the starter won't even crank, that would be one of the large grounds, like the main one between engine and chassis.

If you suspect that the electrical system might be heavily modified, you should try to find some electrical schematics and work out what has been changed.

I think these are the ECU grounds.

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I'll take a look.

I think I found the alarm.

I just took off the steering column cover. Got a little more access too this, butt connectors everywhere.

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Butt connector heaven.

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Just found ground distribution section in book gonna check them all.

Video of the problem

youtu.be/KOCTThS4szI

Well I looked everywhere I could for bad grounds, most of it all looked fine, except this. What is this thing?

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Just found out its not one relay, but 3 of the same kind zip tied and taped together. Don't know if its a problem.

:( it's so lonely in this thread.

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