QTDDTOTT

Because last one was over, and I had these questions:
Am I supposed to see coolant running through the radiator or full when the car is on/off? The reservoir is at the full mark but I'm curious.

I drove my car up to Minnesota and it overheated only on steep hills. I let it cool and kept driving. At another instance where it overheated, I could feel/hear the coolant boil inside the reservoir and hose.

I topped it off with coolant after it cooled. I added it to the reservoir; should I have added it to the radiator?

Anyway I'm probably gonna try to do a drain and fill.


I also changed the oil and I had 2.5 quarts. Is it realistic to burn 1.5 quarts in around 2-3k miles? My spark plugs werent fouled and the oil looked fine.

Thanks

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=1_5F0o2GdVI
amazon.ca/dp/B000AAMY86/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item
ebay.com/itm/MINI-CAR-HI-FI-DIGITAL-AUDIO-STEREO-AMPLIFIER-AMP-SPEAKER-FM-Radio-USB-MP3-MUSIC-/181971277538?hash=item2a5e5556e2:g:7AoAAOSwTA9X6zif
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

engine is almost dead in my 2000 lancer coupe. Want to swap in a different engine.
because of australian laws, it needs to be a 2.4l or less and made by mitsubishi. its just a lot easier that way. also an I4 would be preferred. any ideas?

Was testing things with my car and left the ebrakes on. Then drove the car about 100ft to the end of my street. I always look down at the dash board when I come to a stop and saw the ebrake was on. This is the second time I did this.
How badly did I fuck up my car. Im guess I didnt depress the ebrake hard enough because it didnt drive any differently.

not at all messed up. even older cars were designed with the knowledge that forgetful owners will be in them

It's perfectly fine. It's pretty much driving around with your left foot on the brake and your right foot on the gas, except with less wear. My dad used to accidentally do that in an old Ranger we had.

Hey I'm posting my unanswered question from the previous thread.

What is this circled element and what does it do?

I noticed that there's this lever (circled in blue) in my 2002 Audi A3 in the engine compartment that I believe is connected to the throttle somehow. You can move it back and forward into three different positions. I have no idea what it does though.

Reposting from other thread:

I want a 2nd car but don't have a lot of options because our budget is limited.

4-6k, automatic (wife cannot into manual), small SUV. No down payment, no trade in. Excellent credit though (750+).

What I want is a 2nd/3rd gen 4runner but I am open to other options if they are good.

We plan on trading the car in for a newer one in a few years after I graduate uni (infosec).

Is it dumb to buy a car from 1998 (Ford Explorler) since at this point it is 20 years old? Car is in excellent condition, 141k miles.

Is it on the engine or transmission.
My first thought was that it might select between Drive Neutral and Reverse but then again I could be dumb as fuck

People daily drive cars from the 60s. If it's in good condition it's in good condition.

looks like a kickdown switch?

are chink rearview mirror cams worth it? i need some dashcam/gps/parking-cam-monitor for my "new" shitbox. what are the better "brands"?

It's part of the shifting mechanism. The gear linkages (with the coil-like springs around them) are attached to the gear lever.

One linkage transfers the sideways movement of the lever in neutral, the other transfers the up and down movement, like selecting 1st or second.

The three positions you could feel would be 3rd, neutral and 4th gear. If you push down or pull up on the circled thing, you'd instead select 1st and 2nd, or 5th and if applicable 6th.

The reason for the shape and size of the circled thing is just to give a weighted feel when shifting.

12 year old bimmer is eating oil.

Googling has narrowed a potential couple issues down.

Where do you take it?

Have a friendly family mechanic, but he's a small time dude. He won't know this specific issue (seems a common problem for E90s). More cheap and cheerful kinda work. My last car I sourced spark plugs through him but he gave me the wrong type and I had to request by actual part number. I think he might've put the wrong oil in when he changed it too, but I had a shitbox then so meh.

If I search BMW mechanics, the hits are BMW dealers for brand new cars which will charge through the ass and use OEM parts only (pointless on a 12 year old car).

The other hits are literally every garage in existance, because obviously every single garage in the country has a webpage that lists "QUALITY GARAGE FORD BMW MERCEDES" and every other make on the planet. They won't have seen this specific issue before they're just bullshitting.

Do it yourself

I considered it, but I'm always intimidated by stuff involving oil.

Knowing my luck I'll have the part off, and find I don't have some tool or o-ring or something I need to put the new separator in and I won't be able to close it up again. Oil will be everywhere, and I won't be able to drive to a garage.

I guess with research though you can avoid that, I'll see if its doable.

Please critique.

Changes, suggestions etc. I just finished making this. Will be printed on a 40*60" poster and framed.

>Am I supposed to see coolant running through the radiator or full when the car is on/off? The reservoir is at the full mark but I'm curious.
No you won't see it cycle through the reservoir. The reservoir is to catch spill-over when the radiator gets very hot, and it can also suck it back in when it's cooler/ lower.

>I topped it off with coolant after it cooled. I added it to the reservoir; should I have added it to the radiator?
Yes you should have waited for the rad to cool and taken the cap off and poured it in there. It may stay in the reservoir for a looong time.


>Anyway I'm probably gonna try to do a drain and fill.
You should. I think your ratio is off. Also you may want to replace your radiator cap, it may not be holding pressure.

>I also changed the oil and I had 2.5 quarts. Is it realistic to burn 1.5 quarts in around 2-3k miles? My spark plugs werent fouled and the oil looked fine.

Could happen. You may also have a leak. Just check the oil every time you get gas.

>Victoria, Australia
>Driving home, pull out on to a two lane road from a slip land
>Going 58-60 km/h on a 60 km/h road
>Highway Patrol starts to slow down, but I also slow down due to a hill

Am I fucked or paranoid?

Are you posting this while drivong while a cop is on your tail?
In that case I'll go with fucked.

Nah, I'm not a phoneposter.

Yes! I just googled "audi a3 shifting mechanism" and I think that's exactly it. Thank you for explaining, user. And may I ask how did you know? You do a lot of work on Audis?

I work on cars for a living and it's pretty much the same on all transverse manual transmissions.

I have a Garmin Nuvicam Gps/dashcam combo unit. you can tie in a Back up camera, but it has to be Garmin model too.

The unit is like 200-300 last I checked.

Even if you take it to a mechanic there's no guarantee he'll think its the same thing and won't try to fix something unrelated to the problem.


Been there done that, that's why I do most of my own work. Did eventually finally find a mechanic who does exactly what you ask though it was a bitch.

Is there anything I can do to small holes caused by rust without welding equipment? I'm talking about small holes about the size of your fingertip here.

Thanks, but this is a bit over my pricerange. I was more interested in the rearview mirror attached ones, if they eat up a lot of reflective mirror space, is the mirror still useable in its originally intended function etc...

Is it a dumb/expensive idea to do a transmission swap from a 6spd automatic to a 6spd manual? If the hole in the firewall for the clutch pedal has already been cut out but is covered up by the "dead pedal", does that affect it any?

I'd really like to do a tranny swap instead of selling the car and just buying another car with a manual transmission as this car has sentimental value

how to find cheap insurance when you're 19, no credit, and live in florida?

Please, im begging you

Buy a motorcycle.

If you have the tools, the wherewithal, and time them then why not?

Unless its surface Rust, Rust is like cancer it has to be cut out, welding or epoxying over a few spots won't fix it.

Does a turbocharger really make that noticable of a difference in felt power at higher altitudes, like 5k ft. and up?
How much of a jump in cost of maintenance and repair would I generally be looking at if I went with a turbocharged engine over a naturally aspirated one?

>Does a turbocharger really make that noticable of a difference in felt power at higher altitudes, like 5k ft. and up?

Depends on the car, on older Carbed cars yes they make a difference.

>How much of a jump in cost of maintenance and repair would I generally be looking at if I went with a turbocharged engine over a naturally aspirated one?

Not much, you'd just have to be aware that more can go wrong. Disassembly would be different for the top end of the engine.

I have a beat to shit 96 honda civic that i got for like 2k but only had 6700k miles on, light body damage namely small dents, nicks, cracks, the hood is slightly bent in, grill kinda overflows the light, should i get some dank ricer bodykit parts or would it be easier to just find replacement parts and paint over, or do nothing cause ill ditch the car when i PCS in 1.5 years

Are k and n air filters actually good or just a meme.

Meme. your paper filter is just fine and doesn't let dirt in like the K&N

how much power do you think a KA24E could (safely) produce with a bolt-on turbo?
thinking of picking up a 1989 240SX as a summer/project car, there's a slightly beaten up but fully stock one with relatively low mileage for sale nearby

When I was younger my dad would just filler it and paint over.

It's a bit ghetto though.

Put your signature on it somewhere, maybe add a 55 if you like

Question: what's the website where people buy cars that are super fucked (someone killed themselves in it, bullet holes, flood damage, not safe to drive, etc) I've been trying to find it and I can't.

Copart

Stop asking questions

>uni
You say that as if you live in the UK.

4runners are not small SUV's and older ones may not qualify for a loan from a bank, if you're in the states.

This is a trivial yet somehow important thing I need to change on my car. I want to listen to the sound it makes when you turn the key, but i cant hear it because I have a 6 disc cd player and it scans all slots for like a minute before shutting up. Is there anyway I can stop it from searching for disc at the start up?

disconnect it, maybe

Are volkswagons good diy cars? Thinking about picking up a used jetta because there are no civics around me and I don't think I can handle a bmw.

Are there any vin threads? I can't find any, what happened to them?

Is it stupid to try to paint my own car? My paint was a pretty bad respray job that I think someone did in their driveway and it's full of runs. I want to sand the shit out of the whole car and repaint it.

I have zero experience doing anything like this but I'm good with my hands and reasonably mechanically minded.

Can you rent paint booths? I don't want to halfass it but I also don't have $2000 to drop on a paint job.

I'm not an Veeky Forums regular by any means and I'd like to get a quick perspective on this.

My friend decided to change his oil tonight, but has found out that the new oil filter he bought isn't the right type. He's already drained his oil and is sending me messages claiming that he's basically fucked and needs me to drive out there and pick him up to get a new one even though I just want to go to sleep right now and it's fucking raining anyway.

Can't he just use his old oil filter to get to work tomorrow and then swap it out after he gets home tomorrow? He has new oil, he's just insisting he urgently needs a brand new filter right now.

Is he just being autistic or does he actually have a legit problem? I don't know shit about cars and don't see why he can't just use his old filter for one more goddamn day, I really feel like I don't want to be assed with this if it's not tally necessary.

It's always best to use a new filter. Get it for him and then tell him he owes you a favor

meme, if your car is drawing in air from relatively the same place as the stock intake you won't be changing the performance. However the different shape of the intake will give your engine a little sportier sound.

the guy could only do so many a day and eventually decided to leave for some reason. haven't seen a real vin thread in months.

It's not like I want to make him skip out on changing it completely, I just want him to use the old filter for one more day. Just one.

I've had a long fucking day, I desperately want to get some sleep and I don't see what harm could possibly happen here.

what does burning oil smell like?

bump

Why are ls swaps so popular?

And why does it seem like an ls fox is a meme?

Try to get a 4B12 or the 4B12T. Decent engine, even though it's technically not a real Mitsi engine as it was made by Chrysler and Hyundai venture, it was in the Lancer.

Cause people have zero imagination.

Bags of sand

>Is there anyway I can stop it from searching for disc at the start up?
It can always be connected to draw power. Then it will never forget and thus not need to cycle through all the discs to rebuild its catalog. I had a 50+1 giant disc changer for car use made by Pioneer for their Japanese market. It would do the same thing but also had a smart mode where it didn't cycle but waited for a direct command or it would go to the next disc location and rebuild from there. It had a slight bit more delay in that mode. I didn't want it to always be on as a parasitic load on the battery.

Look up archived painting threads on Veeky Forums. One of them had some details on how to make your own pressurized paint booth in your garage. I don't know, but maybe a keyword to look for is macgyver. Occasionally that macgyver guy makes posts (no name or trip) but he puts macgyver in his post or uses that racequeen picture.

what would be the best option to get rid of frying oil residue in my gas system? The previous owner left the car sitting for 8 months and I've ran diesel in it only.
I've cleaned the gas pump and it was filled with shit from the oil.
Would a gas system cleaner work good enough or what?

Fiberglass patches

My car started up fine yesterday, drove it to work and back, but today I woke up and tried to start it but it cranked and then started clicking. Why isn't my cars battery charging? Had to put it on charge for a few hours, bf xr8 falcon, is there a drain on the battery or something?

>Gas
>Diesel
>Frying oil

You've referenced three different fuels in one paragraph, what exactly does your car run on? Pony farts?

because saying gas system always refer to gasoline powered cars
also, put two and two together: diesel engines can run on normal diesel and frying oil.

> I don't think I can handle a bmw.

Then you can't handle a vag product either

I have a 2014 328i. I know nothing about working on cars, and I get the feeling I picked the wrong brand to want to learn to tinker with it.

That said, I really want to go about adding android auto or at the very least bluetooth audio to it (my car supports bluetooth phone right now).

Where should I start?

>because saying gas system always refer to gasoline powered cars

Exactly, if you put gasoline in a diesel you'll destroy it. Do you have a point in restating this?


>Also, put two and two together: diesel engines can run on normal diesel and frying oil.

Also true however to run on cooking oil the vehicles have to be modified slightly, or the lines can corrode.

So again, what exactly are you supposed to be using?

New head unit, which maybe difficult seeing how new your car is, not alot of aftermarket available for the electronics yet.

can anyone identify the tire that the wheel in the picture has?

I mean the inside part of the wheel, i forget the name of it.

>Exactly
you dense, son.
I've never heard anyone ever refer to the fuel lines, tanks and filters of a diesel car as diesel system.
>to run on cooking oil the vehicles have to be modified slightly
diesel sure as fuck doesnt, you just need to mix some frying oil into your diesel and it's just fine.
Vid related was filmed as the shitbox ran entirely on frying oil.
youtube.com/watch?v=1_5F0o2GdVI

How long can i drive until next oil change with my 2014 vw passat

when was the last oil change?

~26000 km / last week

what is the typical cost of a transmission rebuild?

What do you do about the "PRICE FIRM don't waste either of our time lowballing" faggots on craigslist? Haggle with them anyway? Because whenever I see this it's always on a car that's overpriced by a grand or two. Or just keep looking?

>did a tune up this weekend
>2.8l S10
>each spark plug was covered in oil after the threads

it's got 225k on the clock, and I'd been driving it for the past 2 years at least on the Spark Plugs that were in it when I bought it.

I have a 2016 canyon with the 3.6 v6 and i'm really considering putting a performance tune or chip on there looking for like 30ish extra hp and i'm just not sure where to start or what companies to look at

Intake and exhaust before you do stupid shit.

Usually you should do the oil change every 3 months/7000-10000 miles, but i don't think it would be a bad move to change it every 4-6 months but it all depends on how much do you use the car

>last time I changed my cars oil, I still had a GF

it's been 8 months.. I think I'm gonna change my oil.

Alright thank you

I e-mailed them and say "Hey, I know you are firm on the price. If you have a hard time getting what you need out of it, please keep me in mind, I am comfortable offering up to X if I can take a look at it."

That way they feel that you are a reliable sale and may go with you instead.

His firm price doesn't have to be the same as your offer price.

If you think you understand the value of the purchase better than the seller, make your offer in person, with cash, and see if he'll budge.

Worst case scenario, you end up not overpaying for some expensive shit.

that's what i was already leaning towards that kind of stuff is easy enough but messing with the ecu just gets me overly worried

>after the threads
Rip

time to crate order a 350 I guess.

Ok thanks.

>not building a 305 screamer

Are fuel injectors something you can just take out, clean and put back or is there something more to them?

If it matters I'm talking about a M103 engine on a W124 Mercedes here.

So I bumped this parked car today as I pulled into my space. It didn't really do much except scratch the paint (maybe knocked the bumper loose as well but I couldn't tell if it was like that or not) Anyways, I left a note and I figured I would try to resolve it outside of insurance before anything, but how much of a fix should I offer to pay for before just saying fuck it and taking it to insurance?

I'm smart enough to know when somebody is trying to gouge me, so I'm not going to let that happen before sending them to my insurance and saying fuck it. I figured 200ish was a good place to start

>what would be the best option to get rid of frying oil residue in my gas system?

You stated "gas system" so this answer is for a gasoline system and not a diesel system. If you meant to say you use a Mr Fusion sytem in your DeLorean but accidently typed "gas system" instead, my advice would be substantially different. Always type what you mean while avoiding pronouns and synonyms that force everyone else to try to read your mind.

You have provided no car, engine, or location particulars so I assume this is summertime for your gas system car. In the southern hemisphere, I'd tell you to move the car indoors and put a heater in your garage to warm up the entire car (e.g. fuel tank, its liquid contents, fuel lines). In the northern hemisphere, you should park your gas system vehicle outdoors in the sun after filling the tank full of regular Top Tier gasoline from Costco or other stations with high amounts of detergent. Costco is at the high end of Top Tier gas detergent content. You should add two or three bottles of Techron fuel system cleaner for its detergent and solvent content.

The reason is because frying oil has different types of fats in it. Some of those thick frying oil fats may have formed a ring of coagulated fat at the "waterline" and higher on the ceiling in your fuel tank. The combination of hot outdoors and detergent action from the Techron plus the top tier fuel's own detergent will get rid of any coagulated fats unless they sat there for 8 months to harden up in a chemical reaction. If it does that, then it will take longer. Importantly, the summer heat is your ally. The hotter the better as MacGyver would say.

amazon.ca/dp/B000AAMY86/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item

are these a meme or a good investment?

If the old filter has reached its maximum mileage/hours of operation, it's likely that the filter medium has been saturated with contaminants and might not have the flow necessary, or could be bypassing and no longer filtering at all.

However, no, this is not your problem. Your friend is an idiot for not doublechecking or already knowing what kind of filter he should have had. He can ride the fucking bus and remember his filter next time.

Literally dozens of reasons why this could be. Check your battery connections, clean 'em, and slap them back on, then start the car, throw a multimeter across the battery terminals, and look for 13-14 volts with the engine running. If you see less, it's not charging. If you have a friend rev the car and the voltage changes more than the tiniest bit, your voltage reg is fuckered, and you need an alternator. Beyond that, yeah, you could have a parasitic draw somewhere. Like a dimmer switch that's fucked up or something. Or the battery itself could have finally whiskered between the plates and is shorting itself out. That can happen fast.

I want to hook up an amp through my standard stereo connector. Unfortunately, the amp needs a 12V DC connector and the power through the connector is 15V. Could I just wire a DC connector and plug that into the amp?
Pic related is connector.
Amp:
ebay.com/itm/MINI-CAR-HI-FI-DIGITAL-AUDIO-STEREO-AMPLIFIER-AMP-SPEAKER-FM-Radio-USB-MP3-MUSIC-/181971277538?hash=item2a5e5556e2:g:7AoAAOSwTA9X6zif

will having the downstream o2 sensor disconnected affect whether or not my truck goes into closed loop mode? trying to isolate which sensor is fucked up on my 98 jeep Cherokee 4.0. on a cold start it runs fine, but as soon as it gets up to temp and goes into closed loop it starts stumbling badly and bucking around and it barely holds an idle. if I disconnect the upstream o2 sensor (forcing it to run in open loop) it runs fine, however my gas mileage is abysmal. before I unleash the parts cannon I just want to know it there's a better way of narrowing it down. the trucks had exhaust work done and there's no catalytic converter so the rear o2 sensor (now disconnected) was just dangling above the muffler. should also mention that until I disconnected the upstream o2 sensor and went for a full drive cycle there was no DTC.

What's the point in lifting a truck? I know it raises the COG but what's the point?

how do these #SLAMMED #HELLAFLUSH people jack up their cars? do they take the side skirt off?