Lowest price, how to get it?

Anyone working in a dealership around here? I need some advice.
Thinking about buying one of these dinosaurs (pic related) and around me the prices are quite in line with the MSRP and the dealers don't want to move too much
cars.com shows a few for ~47k (4k under MSRP) but they are very far (500+ miles)
What do?
Take the bus there, buy it and drive back?
Ask them to bring it to me? Any chance they'll do that?
Convince the local dealers to move? How?

In march there was a 20% off incentive and I kick myself in the balls every day for missing that ...

bump I'm also curious on how to negotiate a new car. I can do used cars no problem but have never done a new car.

It seems to me that leasing makes more sense with expensive new vehicles. But the first step in buying a new car is getting a bunch of out-the-door prices in email from various dealers. Have you done that?

>But the first step in buying a new car is getting a bunch of out-the-door prices in email from various dealers. Have you done that?
I need to know what they're paying for it so I can jew the hardest. How do I find out what the dealer paid for the car?

You shouldn't be asking "what's the cheapest price I can get?" And instead ask, "what am I willing to pay for this?"

Trying to be a Jew and wanting it cheap just because instead will backfire. Putting an imaginary price tag on what you want then negotiating there will help. Winter and before tax returns is the best time to buy.

Dealers will sometimes sell at a loss so they can sell more cars. They get a great bonus if they sell lots of cars. TrueCar will give you a price to start with, although you have to keep in mind this is before taxes and fees.

The simpler your offer is, the easier it is to negotiate. Here's a template you can use for those Contact Us forms (remember to make a new email address for this):

Hi, my name is X. I plan to buy a new automatic/manual MAKE MODEL TRIM, with(out) options. I will be registering the car in STATE and will be getting new/transferring license plates. I would like your best out-the-door price, including all taxes and fees. I will be paying in cash. What is your best price? (If you need to supply a fake phone number, do so and add "PS: Do not call the phone listed. It is a fake number." to your message")

Be prepared to calculate the total price yourself based on the information they give you. (Look up the laws in your state) If someone gives you an actual cost breakdown, this will be a good reference. Be very careful about naming the lowest offer you got, dealerships will be satisfied with only matching it. Ask them to beat the second lowest offer you got. Finally, remember to discuss financing (get a bank quote) and trade-ins (get a carmax quote) in-person and after you have agreed upon the price of the car.

Well if you want a lower end one you can already find used police ones for sale.

Well hell, how do you negotiate a used car then? Seems the dealers dont want to negotiate at all. Their prices are firm or theyll only come down $200 tops and get upset if you even try to negotiate. The manager at a chevorlette dealership near me actually let me walk away from a sale over a $500 diffrence. He wanted 13.5k and i said ill pay 13k... He stayed firm and didnt make a sale.

if reddit is to be trusted it's because dealerships actually don't have that much profit margin on cars.

Not op, but...

What is a fair interest rate, for a person with excellent credit, when financing a car? I dont want the dealer to screw me with a high rate even though i know my credit is in the 800s.

How do dealers take advantage of you if they know you have a car to trade in? I remember reading to wait until you have negotiated a final price on a car before revealing that you have a trade in... But idk why...

See i just cant believe this. Not on used cars anyways. They come across more prey than they do people who are knowledgable. Therefore probably screw more people for thousands on trade ins than not. It seems that a 1k -2k profit on a used car sale just isnt sleazy enough for them. They want 3-4k or more on a sale.

well fact is that you should know the price of the car. you can look up the cars price in dozens of places online including rival dealerships and figure out your budget. if your budget is substantially lower than the price then you need to get something else

Bump for answers

it's a silly question because generally financing through a dealership isn't wise and you should be doing everything you can to just pay cash. honestly just go read reddit threads about this. they have posts from actual dealerships talking about this shit

No more than 4.5% for first time buying.

Oh, I see you have a trade-in. Unfortunately we can only value it at $100 maximum.

*intensive arguing*

Okay, we can bump up the price of your trade-in by $50, on the condition that you buy the new car for MSRP right now.

*more intensive arguing*

I'm sorry, but I can't budge on the insanely high price for the car you're about to buy, considering I did you a huge favor by offering $50 more for your trade-in.

The problem is that the better the price on a used car is, the more likely there's something seriously wrong with it. How many used cars can you look at before you just want to get it over with?

>Lowest price, how to get it?
Both Costco and Sam's Club have new car sales. Costco does it themselves with fierce negotiating but in return, the dealers they work with get the advantage of many many cars sold which improves their profit positioning for cars not sold via Costco as well as creating customers for their service department.

Sam's Club felt the pressure from Costco and wimped out in walmart fashion. Its plan is basically a partnership with True Car. No idea whether or not the Sam's True Car price is better than the True Car website's price. But you should at least get competing price quites from these three: Costco members shopping warehouse, Sam's Club members shopping warehouse, and True Car.

Those should be your baseline prices. I had no problem getting my car using cash which gives the dealer the lowest profit. They wanted me to finance it, but no, I have always bought my cars outright.

If you don't have cash, you should go to your credit union you have an account with and see what kind of preapproved credit letter they will make for you to show to the dealer. Some dealers don't even want to negotiate a price until after they determine how much you will spend, but don't show them the letter right away. Or else they will steer you to the trash they think will make the most profit for them at your letter's price point.

I bought my new chevrolet for almost 25% off. That must have been close to their cutoff. Other Veeky Forums fags say 15% is the most discount one gets from MSRP, but I say no. True Car is better than that already. Along with my deep discount, they threw in some free extras. I had free floor mats. I had free chevrolet bowtie hubcap logos instead of the blank one. They also gave me metal tire stem valve covers. Yeah, small stuff, but better than nothing. They also gave me a free front license plate mount. It looks nicer and streamlined than the usual basic flat plate mount. You have a blue pic. I bought red

Try and get a quote from a dealer where they have one sitting that has been there for more than 90 days or so. They might mark down it significantly just to free up the space. Then go to a dealer of your choice with that quote. it won't be hard to compare since they all pretty much have the same options. Only 3: sunroof, manual trans, and full size spare or fix a flat.

OP here

these cars have stopped being manufactured in January or so therefore the "newest" one is like 6 months old

My dad bought a car through Costco's auto programme. He ended up getting a pretty decent deal. You're always going to get the best deal by just price haggling directly with the dealership, but the costco deal just makes things simple.

Oh shit, didn't realize they wrapped up production so soon.

Go to closest dealer and say you got 47k, what deal can they do... if they tell ya to fuck off then fuck off and try the next dealership , most salesmen are just after their fucking commission and are usually willing to bend over backwards to get it

OP back again
From what I'm seeing (watching cars.com and autotrader), this car (with manual transmission) just doesn't sell anymore
in the whole US they sold something like 3 or 5 in the past week out of around 200
So, if I'm correct, best thing to do is check the numbers every day and wait a few weeks or months
I just found a dealer like 50 miles away from me that has 13 manuals and 6 automatics; I might pay them a visit once in a while ...

The whole Holden company will stop making cars by the end of the year (unfortunately)
Can you imagine a second gen SS with all the goodies from the new corvette/camaro?

>The whole Holden company will stop making cars by the end of the year
What the actual fuck is wrong with GM

Be willing to buy a car nobody else wants. I remember some poor lonely Mustang GT but it was an automatic and the model year was closing out and they had it "discounted", but I bet if you did it right you could've gotten them to discount it further because they only do that when they want it gone.

So they don't hold your keys hostage from you for an "appraisal". Generally only the more hungry dealerships do this, but they all get hungry eventually.