I need to do an oil change on my car, but I'm too inept to do it myself. How do I not get scammed?

I need to do an oil change on my car, but I'm too inept to do it myself. How do I not get scammed?

You are nit to inept to do it yourself. It is four steps.

1.unscrew the oil drain plug to drain out the old oil.
2.unscrew the old oil filter and replace with a new one
3.screw the drain plug back in
4.refill with new oil.

It is the most basic bitch thing in the world.

If you're too inept to do as something as basic as an oil change, then you'll be too inept to understand when you're being scammed.

Go on Yelp or AngiesList, search for independent mechanics in your area, pick one that people aren't bitching about. Indies are generally their own bosses and don't have a greedy management trying to use them to fuck over their customers. So they're more likely to just do the oil change and leave the rest of your car alone, which is something those oil change places absolutely don't do, they'll be all over your air filter, cabin filter, opening your coolant cap, etc. so they can find things to sell to you because their manager told them to or find another job.

Pretty much this. I'm pretty dumb when it comes to the engineering behind cars, but even I was able to change my oil the first time around without any issues.

Time to learn, bud. Put in a tiny bit of effort and never get scammed on oil changes ever again.

Some Wal-Marts also do oil changes as well. The risk there isn't that they won't be fucking with your car to shake more money out of you, but that the people doing the oil change have enough of their marbles still in their head to do the oil change right.

If you don't have a long ass wrench or an oil filter removal tool it'll probably be cheaper just to buy the oil and get a garage to do it.

It's easy as fuck but if your drain plug and/or oil filter are tight you won't be able to do shit.

I use a shitty 6" socket wrench to work on my car and I lift, but the drain plug needs a good 1'+ long wrench and a mallet to remove and the filter was too tight to undo by hand.

make an add on CL and offer 15$ because you want someone to show you.

probably get 80 gay dads trying to teach you automotive shit in one day because their sons are too busy transitioning

Why do that when there are plenty of people who have made oil change videos on Youtube for free. When I'm in the market for a new car, it's one of the things I always check - how intelligent or retarded is the placement of the oil filter.

sure is easier than my motorbike.
fucking thing has 2 oil filters.
you can bitch all you want op

the worst part is the use of copper washers on the cover. meaning you need a blowtorch to anneal them

>I not get scammed?
Go to Chevron Oil Stop and say no to every fucking thing but the oil change. They are not as bad as Jiffy Libe.

That's what you get for buying KTM

>How do I not get scammed?
By doing it yourself

Just go to time it lube or any other oil changers and say no to everything but the oil change

Check the oil and under the car for damage afterward

I can't do my own oil changes because I live in an apartment building and they bust you if you leave any oil stains

At least new Subarus have their filters right on the top of the engine

Look for your oil filter and take note of the brand, color and how dirty it looks, go get your oil changed and when you get the car back look at the oil filter again, if it's the same they didnt do anything and if its different chances are they did the entire job.

This.

My mechanic of 10 years is going to retire at the end of the month, and I've always gone to him for my maintenance (because he's helped me with myriad over things over the years).

I'll start doing all of my own maintenance (esp. fluids), so I'm currently watching Youtube vids and scouring forums for advice/tips.

What is your vehicle, OP? I have a 2011 with the retarded dual-canister oil filter, so I highly doubt your vehicle is harder to change oil on than my vehicle.

1.) Take off skid plates to access oil pan and filter
2.) Remove drain plug to drain old oil.
3.) Take off pre-drain plug from bottom of filter
4.) Insert pre-drain tool to remove oil from filter, and let it drain
5.) Use special wrench fitting to remove outer filter housing from base of engine.
6.) Take out old filter element, as well as old O-rings
7.) Clean out filter housing and around mating surface
8.) Place new filter in housing, along with new O-ring, and re-attach using special tool
9.) Replace pre-drain plug with new O-ring
10.) Replace drain plug with new crush washer
11.) Lower vehicle from jack stands/ramps
12.) Pour in 0W20 full synthetic
13.) Start vehicle, run for 4 seconds, shut off.
14.) Check oil level, top up as needed until max fill marker is reached.
15.) Hold tach reset button, turn key to ON, wait 5 seconds for MAIN REQD light to turn off; resets for another 8,000km.

Cry me a river OP.

There was a thread last year from a guy whose mom went to Walmart for an oil change. They put her drain plug in with an impact wrench and rammed it into the pan so far it shredded the threads and destroyed the little gasket.

Walmart is honestly the last place on earth I'd go for an oil change.

A good independent mechanic is always your best bet. Failing that, for SIMPLE stuff like oil changes, a dealership will usually suffice. If it's a reputable automaker like Toyota or Honda, they will be using the correct/factory spec. fluids and torque specs for everything.

Why not just drive it somewhere private and do the oil change? My cousin had that issue with his landlord, so we just went to an industrial park area on a Sunday afternoon (everything there is closed on weekends), and did it behind one of the buildings. Did it that way for three years, never had an issue.

its not even German though. imagine how bad a MZ is? the horror

>1.) Take off skid plates to access oil pan and filter
>2.) Remove drain plug to drain old oil.
>3.) Take off pre-drain plug from bottom of filter
>4.) Insert pre-drain tool to remove oil from filter, and let it drain
>5.) Use special wrench fitting to remove outer filter housing from base of engine.
>6.) Take out old filter element, as well as old O-rings
>7.) Clean out filter housing and around mating surface
>8.) Place new filter in housing, along with new O-ring, and re-attach using special tool
>9.) Replace pre-drain plug with new O-ring
>10.) Replace drain plug with new crush washer
>11.) Lower vehicle from jack stands/ramps
>12.) Pour in 0W20 full synthetic
>13.) Start vehicle, run for 4 seconds, shut off.
>14.) Check oil level, top up as needed until max fill marker is reached.
>15.) Hold tach reset button, turn key to ON, wait 5 seconds for MAIN REQD light to turn off; resets for another 8,000km.

Who designs such a crap?
My car was build in 2009 and is build as a facelift version today, they only changed minor interrior and cosmetic stuff .
A typical oil change is like this:

>jack up car
>put drain pan under car
>remove drain plug
>remove oil filter
>wait a few minuites for oil to drain completely
>screw on new filter an (old) plug
>fill in 3,1L of oil

And it is good to go, I use 5W40 instead of 15W30 and change early since I want that engine to last and tollerate extended periods of WOT on the Autobahn...

I'm too weak to remove the oil filter.

>MZ
>a 2-stroke with only gearbox oil and no filters
If it is only close to a Simson the maintainance on a MZ must be easy.
There are tools for that.
If you want to cheap out on them, hammer a flat head screw driver threw the oil filter and use it as a lever.

That's why you let the car run to circulate and warm up the oil noob

You can't do that with a genuine Honda oil filter.

You can do that, you ony need a sharp screwdriver...

HIGH-STRENGTH-STEEL