[D a i l y B i k e T h r e a d - /dbt/]

[D a i l y B i k e T h r e a d - /dbt/]

Half a peter edition.

>Motorcycle Crashes
>Motorcycle Related Cartoons
>Motorcycle Memes & Circljerking
>Motorcycle Gear & Accessories
>Motorcycle Bashing
>Motorcycle Pics & Webms
>Motorcycle Dating Advice

>/dbt/ map updated July 2017:
google.com/maps/d/viewer?msa=0&mid=1YwqbzbdRjMAItdOZPktcND3Nr98

Nobike? Start here:
a2bikes.co.uk/

>Motorcycle Ergonomics simulator:
cycle-ergo.com

Webms with sound:
Previously on /dbt/:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/q6mqochYOUA
youtube.com/watch?v=mxoVMuWkluA
youtube.com/watch?v=Ni2a2zUia_A
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Thank you Satan.
I rode an MT-09 today, it was the first time I ever rode anything with more than 48 PS and I have to say... it wasn't as scary as I thought. Yeah the front gets light if you WOT in 1st or 2nd and I did a sick little drift when I gave a little too much throttle around a left bend but it won't absolutely rek your shit if you're careful with the right hand.
I can see why it'd be a bad bike to start on though. Absolute noobs can't into throttle control. It was pretty jerky as it is, especially while trying to slalom in 2nd.
t. rode A2 bikes for 2+ years

Honda Bulldog WHEN

does that mean you will stop telling everyone to start on a piece of shit now?
its like a big powerful car, they are easier to drive at the speed limit than an econobox that is revvings its guts out to do 70mph

I've been offered a CB125E for $1200 AUD (950 usd), with only 2000KM and new tyres. Is this a good deal? I know its a slow bike but I wanna get a cheap bike that won't cost a lot to maintain or insure. Cheapest decent 250's all seem to be at least ~2500 where I am and they all have higher KM's

I rode the mt-09 at 6'6/198cm and it really didn't suit me.

No, the CB 500 is a good starter bike and the GS 500 is still the Best Beginner Bike. Did you even read what I wrote? The MT 09 would be atrocious as a starter bike precisely because noobs cannot into throttle control and would end up looping that jerky piece of shit. It's fun, but it takes self-restraint.

Do not start on a 125.

You mean you can't into throttle control and ride into trucks?
stop talking for others, you are like those people in that video from the last thread that run into the crashed groms and fall over due to having no leg strength drobe.

What size would you recommend then? Most people suggest something like the Ninja 250/300 for a beginner.

not drobe but i recommend anything 400-750cc or what ever cruiser suits your fancy.

I can into throttle control, which you can tell from how I didn't loop the bike and didn't lowside on bumpy roads, train tracks etc while cornering. 2 years of daily riding will help anyone not be a shit rider, even if they were shit to begin with (like me, which I'll admit).
The majority of 18 year olds are just shitheads with no restraint and no self-control. Yes we get it, you're a special snowflake, you started on a liter and managed not to crash, well done. The majority if beginners (to whom we must cater with our suggestions) would not be so lucky.
My leg strength is perfectly fine, thank you very much.

Any standard / naked between 35 and 80 PS.

After a week you'll wish you spent the extra $1000 and got a 250.

Post your thighs

youtu.be/q6mqochYOUA

This guy drunk, stolen bike, wanted criminal, or what?

Literally me.

>It was pretty jerky as it is, especially while trying to slalom in 2nd.
That's just due to shitty fueling, power commander fixes the fz's in a big way.

id fuck your sister drobe.
post the pics of her on your bike.

I heard as much. Did they update the fuel maps for the Tracer as well? Instructor said if I thought the MT was jerky I should feel his Tracer.
Not that it matters, there's only one liter I'm really interested in.
MAJESTIC

At work, don't have the pic on this PC.
She's single again you know.

whats her number?

4

Please don't get an expensive bike you'll just ruin it with your shitty riding

I'll buy an S1000RR and ride it into a truck just 4u.
And because they're ugly as fuck, but mostly to trigger you.

is that her age?

Quit pretending you aren't a broke fucker drobe

That was 3 years ago when I didn't have a job. Uni is almost done, in 6 months I'm getting decent dosh.
I'm still a cheap fucker though, I'll probably end up keeping the CB another 2 years, then getting a used Hornet or something for a couple years until the MAJESTIC porpoise is cheap.

>666
Hail satin!

How's dbt this lovely morning?

>buying a notork bike

>being a nobike shitposter

I'm trying to stop you from making a grave mistake

Hornets look cool but they're a shit
Unless you're talking about the 919's

Calm down user, I'm not going to buy one based on looks. When the time comes to upgrade bikes, I'm test riding the contenders and picking the one that feels the best to me. I mentioned the Hornet by name because I sat on one and liked how it felt (seating position), and because it has roughly the amount of power I am looking for in my next bike.
And I quite like revvy engines 2bh.

Lol, what makes you think I'm not calm?
Why do you have such an awful taste in bikes though?

Not him, but taste is subjective u fkn sperg

Just learned that my gaskets are made of paper wtf how da fuk don't they leak?

My first 10,000 km.
How much do you got on your bike? and did you bought it new?

To an extent, no same person should enjoy the taste of shit

A bit over 2462 lad. Babby's first bike and I bought it pre-reg at 3 miles.

42000km, bought it at 34 last year

I can't sleep.
Thinking about the throttle stop screw.
Why are there two?
Why did the pirated manual lie to me that there's only one?
Am I supposed to use the top one if the bottom doesn't help?

My bike is 20 years old. Bought it 2 years ago at 38,000 km, am now at 59,000.

If you're in AU, find a CBR250RR. They're cheap (especially with higher KMs). Don't be worried of 90,000km+ models, those engines are bulletproof with basic maintenance. Absolute god machine.

>why are there two
There's only one, right? It's labeled 36 in the left hand illustration, and 10 in the right hand one.

Are CB400's reliable? A few for sale in my area and I'm interested in getting one. They're all around 2011-2012.

Don't they need new rings by the time they hit 50 k miles? It's a fucking 20k rpm engine after all.

>10
19, obviously.

Honda knows how to build a motor. I remember a test from years ago that tested a CBR900 motor at brand new, 1K, 15K, 30K and 60K miles.

Put out the most power the more miles it racked up. I may not personally care for Honda motorcycles but goddamn they are reliable.

It's the one labeled 19 on the right and 36 on the left.
But in the right it can clearly reach throttle, but on the left there's 32 right above it.

>new rings
>new anything on the god machine

I'm telling you, bulletproof. Mine just had a very major service at nearly 90,000km (I was paranoid, told them to check everything) and the only problems were a wheel bearing and worn brakes.

Self control test: Listen to the entire Initial D OST while riding without going above the speedlimit once

I seriously have no idea how they manage to pull 45HP out of a tiny 20k RPM I4, let alone make the thing capable of withstanding 27 years of learner rider abuse. And the thing only weighs 160kg soaking wet. Will always be my favourite bike.

Also bike bandit calls both of them "carb adjuster" which tells me I'm blessed to try and spin the 32. But why would they put it there if not to prevent me from seeing idle throttle position too low?

Has /dbt/ seen the movie Torque?
youtube.com/watch?v=mxoVMuWkluA

I'm pretty well user.
What ship are you on?

Oh I see.
Do not question the Carb God. Offer him your firstborn and swear to dedicate your life to fighting the skid demon and all will be well.

You ought to look up the RC166. 250cc inline 6 racebike.

Good to hear my man!

Nothing fancy. Just a govt boat doing boat stuff

its treated paper

total bs how does he jump without a ramp 4/10 not realistic

Is the ninja 650 a "boring" choice? I'm looking to move up to something in the middleweight class, and I really like the ninja/Z 650s for their ergos and looks, but all research points me back to the FZ instead.

What have you been riding so far? If 125 it's a decent enough choice, if 250 or above get something a bit more powerful.
Check ergos on cycle-ergo.com and most importantly, go and test ride those bikes that are possible choices. If it feels right, buy it, even if it doesn't look as good on paper.

maybe

I have a 390 duke right now that I've been riding daily as my summer commuter and for some weekend trips as well as just doing parking lot drills (cornering, emergency braking, etc).

On the highway it's perfectly smooth, but passing and getting out of people's way at speed requires a few downshifts and I'm not confident about it even then. I could wait for a 790 duke, but I'm a little worried it will be "too much".

Yeah, just test ride some bikes.
>passing and getting out of people's way at speed requires a few downshifts
How is that a problem?
>I'm not confident about it even then
Sounds like you need to git gudder at judging speeds and distances instead of getting a more powerful bike, 2bh.

Why is painting so bloody boring.

It's not but the bike obviously isn't meant to be doing responsive work at higher speeds. I meant I'm not confident about it because it doesn't feel as capable higher up.

I really love doing it. Just don't stick around while it dries. Clamp looks good.

>doesn't feel as capable higher up
This might come as a surprise for you, but you generally don't need to accelerate to 60 over the speed of whomever you're passing within 0.2 seconds. Here's what can go wrong when you're overtaking on a (relatively) gutless bike:
>lose control and run into a ditch / the vehicle you're passing
Even likelier on a more powerful bike if you whiskey throttle.
>get rear-ended by Porsche overtaking you and slowfag in front of you
Do shoulder checks and look in the mirrors before overtaking. Signal early.
>overtaking distance too long because speed difference is low
You need to get better at judging the distance it'll take you to overtake and decide if it's worth the risk if it gets close. Like, if the guy you're trying to overtake is doing 10 under the limit right now, but has been speeding 20 over the limit through towns and another town is coming up just after the overtaking zone, you might want to give it a pass.
Your engine isn't going to miraculously blow up or anything and if you fear you'll run out of power (as in, hit top speed and be unable to accelerate further), chances are it's not worth it to overtake the guy unless you're on the Autobahn, he's in the left hand lane overtaking a slow truck and you're coming up on him at high speed already.

TL;DR
Unless you ride a 125 or under, your bike will accelerate as fast or faster than most cars you'll encounter on the road. They somehow manage to overtake one another while taking up more space than you, so why shouldn't you?

Fuck my life.
A part fell in the grass.

I'm not saying that I don't have a lot to learn after just a year of riding, but there's a reason people aren't lining up to buy 300s for highway commuter bikes. I ride on the highway all the time, it's not that it's impossible, it's just annoying. I'm not going 60 over the speed of the person I'm passing, nor do I need to do it in .0.2 seconds.

Really, it's your decision and if you want a more powerful bike, knock yourself out. I just think that if you're still "worried" about things on your current bike, maybe you should work on your abilities first and get more confident before jumping on a bike that will give you even more things to worry about.

hahahahha

This is just incorrect. Overtaking on a fast bike is far, far safer than on a slower one, assuming you have the ability to control the power.

You can get up to speed to overtake faster, require a shorter distance to do it in, can slow down faster to pull back in lane if required, can get past drivers quickly who don't see you and merge into your lane, and you don't have to worry about anything behind you, because they won't catch you.

I wanna start riding a bike and I've been thinking about something. I heard from multiple places the throttle is a problem for a new rider, accidentally opens up trying to turn etc, is there something that will lock how much gas handle can move? Something you can set maybe, as you learn you let the handle move more and more but have a locking mechanism for accidental opening.

yes, your wrist. turn it less and the throttle opens less

That doesnt sound like a good idea

You're overthinking it. Like waaaay way overthinking it.
What you are imagining happening isn't even a thing.

I mean what would be the downside of this? It definetly would give me more confidence. It would also limit bigger bikes to a smaller power.

The problem isn't necessarily the amount the throttle is opened, but doing it at the wrong time or in a jerky way. Get a 125 or 300 so it won't loop out on you and use the throttle smoothly, especially at the limits of traction and you won't have any problems.

Don't use MSF throttle holding method and you won't have this problem they address.
Since you are so conscious about this, you will probably pick a bike with a throttle that acts as an off/on switch anyway, like ninja 250.

Just get good, you have to fuck up pretty hard to have any real problem with the throttle on any normal beginners bike.
Not only that but people run into trouble by a rough closed to open throttle transition more than opening it too far unless it's at some serious lean+speed

Because sometimes, grasshopper.. you actually NEED more power. And if you limit the throttle travel you will fuck yourself in ways you cannot yet imagine.

>I mean what would be the downside of this?
not being able to open the throttle all the way

What do you mean by this? Neutral hand position on no-throttle is their taught method, what is wrong with this?

>assuming you have the ability to control the power.
But that's just it. user rode a gutless shitbike so far, so he doesn't have the ability to control the power. That comes with riding powerful bikes. Before switching to a more powerful bike, he should get more confident so he doesn't ride the powerful bike like a complete pussy, and then gets scared when there's suddenly a lot of power if he whiskey throttles because the road is bumpy or whatever.

You are completely correct, mind you. I just think that user doesn't sound like he's ready to learn to control the power of a (much) bigger bike, and upgrading to a Ninja 650 isn't going to be a big enough step to justify it.

You realize it's asinine as soon as you try to hold wot for any extended period of time, which is going to be very common on a low power bike. Keep hand neutral on stable throttle instead. Release (trust the spring) and lever thumb against the control cluster when you need to use front brake very quickly.

how is a new rider opening full throttle and not crashing

how is opening the throttle going to make anyone crash?

panic, hit the brakes and lock up or just panic and swerve to the side of the road

>It definetly would give me more confidence.

The flaw here is you know nothing so your confidence metrics are questionable at best.

Want to get good? STUDY what is proven then PRACTICE what is proven. Riding is not intuitive (neither is driving).

Fuck what you think. Destroy or abandon all your preconceptions then approach learning with an open mind.

If worried, don't begin on a sportbike. (Sportbike autists hate everything else so ignore them.) Find something small and docile then use that to see if you like motorcycling. Motorcyclists go through many motorcycles over a lifetime. Keep what you like, sell off what you don't.

You could loop it if it's a strong enough engine. Most people aren't that retarded but some are.

The risk of starting on a supersport isn't necessarily the bike itself, it's that new riders easily get overconfident and ride beyond their skill. And on a 600 you can end up going a lot faster than you should before you realize it..

However, this is America, you do what you want. If a new rider wants to start on a fuckin BOOSA BRUH I'm not gonna stop them. Semper Fi, roll Tide, you do you brother.

If you are capable of panic you shouldn't operate a motor vehicle let along a motorcycle.

Your personality should be such that you can respond with urgency but if you are the sort of person who can freak out, you don't need a motorcycle because you aren't emotionally stable.

Not everyone should be on a bike. IMO anyone who doesn't strongly feel they belong on two wheels in the first place should find another hobby. The world is flooded with motorcycle operators already and, unlike when it was an outsider culture, every retarded nigger buys a bike then raises my insurance rates by crashing.

Use your magnet on a stick retrieval tool.

He didn't really mean panic, he meant a survival reaction. Practice and knowledge is what prevents survival reactions. If a turn goes bad it's counter-intuitive to give it MORE gas, but it's generally true. "When in doubt, throttle out"

Throttle Control IS riding a motorcycle. If you can't trust yourself with the throttle, you can't ride a bike. And you need to be able to use the throttle to maintain proper suspension.

As fucking corny as the acting is, watch Twist of the Wrist 2. Watch it again. Read the book. Read Proficient Motorcycling (get it on Amazon). Understand how motorcycles work, and you'll feel more confident.

youtube.com/watch?v=Ni2a2zUia_A

(deleted and reposted to change youtube link to the one with the corny acting not abridged because it's funny)

>noobs cannot into throttle control

when i was new, throttle control was literally the easiest part. wrist in line with or below the bar (or else it gets numb in 3 seconds), hand at an angle to the bar (or else it gets numb from being at an awkward angle. all bars are angled). i hit potholes, i sneezed, and i never whisky throttled except when i almost dropped the bike doing a U turn (clutch in of course) trying to hold it up from the throttle side of the bars

A stock WR450f purchased in the USA market has a long throttle stop screw to do exactly what you are proposing. Most folks bin it immediately and put a standard length one in or cut the original down.

It will work to reduce power on a more powerful bike.

Whether it is a good idea or not for you is completely subjective. If you were able to accomplish it on your bike easily I'd think you would also remove it within a week or two or riding. It's not that difficult to get the concept of using the throttle.

A lot of new bikes also have rider modes that smooth the throttle but someone this nervous probably isn't going to go for something like a recent model year street triple as their first bike

I'm just saying, I've watched many bike crashes on youtube that could be prevented if throttle could be limited.

Oh but I wanted to get an mt09 as the first bike actually. I'm a very careful person while driving cars but I also would like to get something I like visually. Also traction control and ABS and slippery clutches are nice add-ons bigger bikes have.

or just dont get a litrebike with no experience.

jesus christ some people...

you are an idiot